Jointer v thicknesser

[jimmyjames]

Ok, building a bed on the weekend and thought to myself "there must be an easier way to get all this 2 * 4 uniform". Duh!

Anyway, as I understand it a jointer flattens 4 sides of a length while a thicknesser will reduce the size of a length but not flatten - is that right?

If it is it seems the jointer is the more versatile tool. It will flatten and reduce the thickness of stock though limited to the size of the blade (6 or 8inch). What do people think?

I've spotted a benchtop 6inch model on the timbecon site for $400 by sherwood. Has anyone used this and what do you think of it?

[silentC]

JJ,

A jointer will give you two flat surfaces that are perpendicular to each other. The thicknesser will then plane the opposite surfaces so that they are parallel to the jointed surfaces. The thicknesser will use the jointed surfaces as a reference to ensure that the opposite surfaces are the same distance from each other throughout the length of the board. This is how you end up with a board that is square, flat, and a consistent thickness throughout.

You really need both if you want to do this job quickly and easily. You can do it with the jointer only but it is painstaking and difficult to get consistent results.

I bought a floor-standing 6" jointer from Hare & Forbes for just under $500. If you shop around, you may find a better price if money is the constraint. You can buy a thicknesser for around $600. There are also combo machines that do both jobs and are cheaper than the two individual machines.

[jackruss]

just bought the 6" desktop sherwood model over the carbatec desktop model( they don't have them until late August at 27 of the 36 have been pre ordered)

It was about $150 dearer and I thought more powerful but its that old horse power to wtts conversion issue that suckered me it!

The fence and assembly was straight forward, with just a good hand square pressed against the fence as it was tighten to keep it at 90 degrees.

Also you don't need to buy the push blocks as they come with the unit. Hey its always good to have a spare!

With floor space a concern having the desktop unit was a big plus, it sits nicely in itshelf when not in use.

It weighs a good 45kg so doesn't move when placed on a bench. Just make the shelf you want to put it on strong and at a good height for your back :)

I also have the 12 1/2 " desktop thicknesser and they perform their jobs nicely.

My biggest concern with the desktop unit was the length of the bed and not being able to get longer stock flat against the bed and fence. In reality this is a none issue with good balance and technique, I happly jointed some old 150x75 Blackbutt ( read really hardwood) with no prob. Granted I was only taking of bout .5mm but a few passes and I had my nicely jointed edge.

As to purchasing a jointer and not a thicknesser, the main prob I see is that you are really just trimming a small about .5 to 1.5mm with a jointer to get the edge square, anything more you would use your table saw or bandsaw to get the wood close, the jointer to square up and the thicknesser to well get the final thickness.

All that said, if you are just straighting a few boards, a shooting board, jig and a handheld power plan would prob be the best bang for your buck, but hey then you don't get another big tool eh !! Oh did I mention its ORANGE!!

JR

[QldWoodie]

If I was just buying one, I'd buy a thicknesser. Here's why:

1) Small jointers (6" models) are OK for edges but not real good for flattening the face of boards. For this you really want an 8" model (or more particularly, one with longer tables). 8" models are $'s!

2) It usually isn't hard to select fairly straight boards. A thicknesser will plane them smooth and will flatten them *somewhat*. Put the flattest side down first, then alternate between sides. Also (if your boards aren't too wide) you can thickness them on edge and do the same thing. For edges you can finish up with a hand plane.

3) The alternative - if you only had a jointer - is very hard to get parallel faces on a jointer. You can often get by with the edges of boards that aren't parallel, but you always need parallel faces.

4) Cheap thicknessers are only light duty but do a reasonable job. I don't know of any cheap, light duty 8" jointers.

Qw