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Ed Reiss
30th July 2009, 12:12 PM
All you jig users...which is better Wolverine or Tru-grind?:?

rsser
30th July 2009, 12:39 PM
Ed, I don't use either but something similar to the TruGrind.

Just from reading around, the Varigrind 2 jig might offer over something over similar designs and that is the capacity to keep the tool on the wheel (ie. lateral movement control). Frankly that wouldn't be a deal breaker for me but might be for some.

Ozkaban
30th July 2009, 02:56 PM
I have the tru-grind and am pretty happy with it. haven't seen the wolverine so can't compare.

The Tru-grind is pretty quick to use and I only run of the edge of the wheel if I'm not paying attention :rolleyes:

Cheers,
Dave

Grumpy John
30th July 2009, 02:57 PM
:whs:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
30th July 2009, 03:13 PM
The Tru-grind is great if you want to grind swept-back wings on bowl gouges, like the Ellsworth grind. These are a difficult type of grind to consistently do freehand. That's really all it's designed to do, although it can do other grinds as a side-effect. Just not as well.

If you grind the ends of your bowl gouges with a square profile, (like most are sold new) the Wolverine is better. It'll also do rouging gouges as well as continental spindle/detail gouges & scrapers with a slightly radiused profile. It claims to do other tools, like skews, carpenter's chisels, etc. but it doesn't do straight edges well. :no:

However these are all grinds that are simple to do freehand anyway.

I have a Tru-grind, even though I haven't bothered to use it yet. I don't have a Wolverine and have no plans to buy one... :;

Ozkaban
30th July 2009, 03:33 PM
The Tru-grind is great if you want to grind swept-back wings on bowl gouges, like the Ellsworth grind. These are a difficult type of grind to consistently do freehand. That's really all it's designed to do, although it can do other grinds as a side-effect. Just not as well.

Thats quite true. The options seem to be swept back through to *really* swept back...



If you grind the ends of your bowl gouges with a square profile, (like most are sold new) the Wolverine is better. It'll also do rouging gouges as well as continental spindle/detail gouges & scrapers with a slightly radiused profile. It claims to do other tools, like skews, carpenter's chisels, etc. but it doesn't do straight edges well. :no:


Also true, though I find if you don't move the skew much it keeps this radius to a minimum.

Cheers,
Dave

Cliff Rogers
30th July 2009, 04:38 PM
The Wolverine has a optional fingernail grind jig called a Vari-Grind that looks very similar to the Tru-grind.
http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/vari-grind.htm

They also have a new one called the Vari Grind 2.

http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/vari-grind2.htm

RETIRED
30th July 2009, 06:41 PM
The Tru-Grind will sharpen most tools. I have used a Wolverine system and still do (home made) for sharpening my 2" gouges (cause they don't fit in anything else) and found it lacking in certain areas.

Fiddly in some cases to set up and hard to get accurate repeatability because of the long arm. It is also a hip buster if you leave the arm out. DAMHIKT.:-:wink::D

RETIRED
30th July 2009, 06:52 PM
PS. Manual here if you want to take a look Ed.http://www.shop.woodcut-tools.com/section.php?xSec=64

issatree
30th July 2009, 07:03 PM
Hi All,
Never had the money to buy those Jigs at the time, so I just Taught myself not to grind the Tool away, but to Sharpen it, & by hand.
I keep my Wheels Clean, & on a Skew I do the hard side, for me to do, 1st.
Once you get the hang of it, it becomes easy, but of course it is horses for courses.
I Sharpen ALL my Tools by Hand. Yes, I made a few blues, but you get past them, eventually.
Regards,
issatree.

mick61
30th July 2009, 08:11 PM
G`day things have changed a lot since I spent a day with you Not a jig in site is K W spreading his influence down there?
Mick:D

Calm
30th July 2009, 09:02 PM
I have a tru grind and i would have thought if you dont have any "bend" in the leg it would do a straight grind. The more bend the more swept back the side are "i thought"

As for not using a jig, get with the times, it has been proven that sharp tools do the best job. and the best way to get them sharp is with a jig of some sort.

When you compare the results from a "free hand" grind to a Jig grind (white stone) and then go to a wet grind (tormech) you will see the difference.

I bought a skew chisel off Ern and he sharpened it with a Water grind - it was so sharp he cut his thumb when he handed it over to me, i cut my finger just checking if it was sharp, i have since sharpened it with a jig/rest and it wont cut anywhere near as good. (Ern did that skew have a lifetime sharpening with it?)

Just my opinion but there is a lot that agree.

added; - Sorry Ed but i havent seen or used a wolverine.

Cheers

RETIRED
30th July 2009, 09:41 PM
G`day things have changed a lot since I spent a day with you Not a jig in site is K W spreading his influence down there?
Mick:DYep. The miserable bastard has cost me a fortune,:Dnot to mention others here as well.:wink:

Skew ChiDAMN!!
30th July 2009, 09:51 PM
I have a tru grind and i would have thought if you dont have any "bend" in the leg it would do a straight grind. The more bend the more swept back the side are "i thought"

If you have the leg parallel with the shaft of the tool, it's as close to a square grind as it gets. It's not exactly a square grind, it's a little bit off... not enough to matter though.

Try to sharpen a square-end scraper or skew that way and you'll end up with a slightly curved profile if you move the cutting edge from side to side on the wheel as I would normally do.

Unless the wheel is wide enough to sharpen the whole width of the bevel at once, in which case you don't need to move the tool around.

rsser
30th July 2009, 10:32 PM
Calm, yep that skew comes with a lifetime sharpness guarantee. Bring it down any time and I'll tell you it's sharp ;-}

Yeah, running the finger across a dry ground edge and you tell it's sharp in many cases by the feel of the burr. No burr and b*gger, the edge is red.

Ed Reiss
30th July 2009, 10:39 PM
thanks for all your input.:U

It seems that it's going to be a coin toss between the two...each has it's attributes. I like the fact that the tru-grind takes larger size tools, and that the vari-grind 2 (used on the wolverine) eliminates lateral movement.

One thing for sure...the teknatool sharpening center I bought on sale was not worth the price. Poorly constructed and securing the tool with the thumbwheel is an exercise in futility...just won't tighten enough, have to use pliers to tighten but then, by that time, the tool has moved:~

Speaking of teknatool, the second SN2 replacement from Craft Supplies is due to be delivered today...keeping fingers crossed.

rsser
30th July 2009, 11:12 PM
Ed, some US buyers of the T/tool sharpening centre have returned theirs for a refund or replacement I believe.

Ed Reiss
31st July 2009, 03:35 AM
...gonna' do the same :;

INVENTOR
31st July 2009, 10:00 AM
Ed, after using the Tru grind for some time, I found the whole base assembly to lack rigidity. If there was any vibration in the grinder the 'weak' support leg of the jig did not help. I have moved over to the Kelton (new design) jig. It has a simlar design clamp to the Tru grind (part the tools fits in), but with a much stronger base support leg. Also the support leg can accept other fittings, for other tools.
The Tru grind did come profesionally boxed, with CD and was finished well, but I don't use it now.

kdm
31st July 2009, 10:15 AM
I think there have been several versions of the Tru-Grind and the current one seems pretty rigid to me. The older style one with the red painted base looks more flimsy but I haven't used one.

I use the Tru-Grind for gouges with swept back grinds but prefer a platform for everything else, mainly because it is quicker to set up and will be ready to sharpen the same tool again without any set up time if it isn't moved in the meantime.

Ed Reiss
31st July 2009, 11:43 AM
Ed, after using the Tru grind for some time, I found the whole base assembly to lack rigidity. If there was any vibration in the grinder the 'weak' support leg of the jig did not help. I have moved over to the Kelton (new design) jig. It has a simlar design clamp to the Tru grind (part the tools fits in), but with a much stronger base support leg. Also the support leg can accept other fittings, for other tools.
The Tru grind did come profesionally boxed, with CD and was finished well, but I don't use it now.

thinking of selling it?

KenW
31st July 2009, 06:37 PM
Yep. The miserable bastard has cost me a fortune,:Dnot to mention others here as well.:wink:
Like I could force you into spending money, your bigger than me.
The best bowl jig is the Toemek (ask ).
Just buy the jig and mount it on their new bar in front of a spark grinder.

rsser
31st July 2009, 06:48 PM
"Just buy and .... " that's how the slippery slope starts :C

What follows is the turning tool setter, the fingernail jig, the skew jig and lastly the divorce jig. That one really hurts the plastic.

KenW
31st July 2009, 06:54 PM
"Just buy and .... " that's how the slippery slope starts :C

What follows is the turning tool setter, the fingernail jig, the skew jig and lastly the divorce jig. That one really hurts the plastic.
Ern, would you let a woman come between you and your woodturning ?

rsser
31st July 2009, 07:07 PM
No, guess not. Be messy cleaning up the blood.