The best 100 turning "tips"

[jefferson]

I hope this thread finds an audience.

I've been given a great stack of tips from board members over the last 12 months or so. The latest (from handed down from Vic Wood to one of his students) is:

- "never turn what you cannot sand"

And another from a Vic Wood student:

- "if you decorate with lines, only use two, otherwise you have to measure"

Simple, one-liners that now make a lot of sense. And I haven't read either in any of my woodturning books.

If you all don't mind, please post your favourite tip for my scrapbook. I'm sure some others new to turning will appreciate it too.

I don't think it matters if the tip isn't yours, as long as you share the source.

[eisbaer]

i have one. :)

"wear safety gear"

tends to get overlooked far too often.

[NeilS]

These 'Universal Turning Truths (http://www.woodturnerruss.com/UniversalTruths.html)' by Russ that posted somewhere are a good starting point.

.

[jefferson]

Thanks, guys.

Neil, I've seen that one before. It's good.

But I was more looking for useful tips that you guys just take for granted.

For example, Ken W. was showing me how to hot melt a piece for a box onto a waste block. He first put a centred dimple in the piece at the tail-stock end, brought the tail stock up, ready to go. Then he put hot-melt on the waste block, leaving a gap in the glue for the air to escape, then quickly bringing the tail-stock up to "clamp" the wood on the waste block. Because of the dimple, it went in dead-centre.

That's the sort of practical stuff I was after. More than happy to catalogue it all at the end.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

"If you can't see it, you can't turn it."

That one's true on so many different levels... :;

[Texian]

When hollowing "manually", the tailstock makes a good support for your right elbow.

[Harry72]

"Ken W. was showing me how to hot melt a piece for a box onto a waste block"

If you applying a large amount of hotmelt glue soften with a heat gun just before contacting it with the mating piece.
Also hotmelt glue doesn't like shiney/slick surfaces a few stokes of 60g sand paper gives it a key to bond too.



Ps, If your chisel is not cutting you may need to turn the lathe on at the wall first!

[ElizaLeahy]

How do you remove the hotmelt spare piece at the end?

[brendan stemp]

This comes C/o Tim Skilton.

Use the 50% rule for choosing sandpaper grades; e.g. if you start sanding at P100 then the next grade to use would be 100 + 50% (50) = P150. Next is P150 + 75 (50% 0f 150) = 225 or P220. Next is 220 +110 = 330 or 320, and so on. I start at P80 then 120, 180, 240, 320, 500, 800, 1200....

PS I like the idea of this thread, hope we get lots of ideas, well done Jeff.

[jefferson]

Thanks, please keep them coming.

One from DJ on sanding:

"When sanding, remove all traces of dust from the work before you move onto the next grade". (Dusty with an air gun, but it works!)

Another one (I think from R. Raffan but I know it's been said elsewhere):

Don't wear ear-muffs when turning. Listen to the wood. If you hear a "tick", stop the lathe and find out why...."

One from :

"If your tool is sharp and the bevel is rubbing and the tool is getting hot but not cutting.... Open the flute!" Or something like that. That one was from down at Phillip Island.



How do you remove the hotmelt spare piece at the end?

Eliza, not sure about the question??? I part the workpiece off the waste block, right on the glue-line. Messy on the chisel, but you don't "waste" too much of your waste block. And most of the time - unless you've used stacks of hotmelt, it parts off fairly easily. (Is that what you were asking?)

And thanks Brendan for the encouragement. I've just got to prise all of knowledge out of the wiser heads.

[RETIRED]

If you have a catch, switch off the lathe and turning it by hand do an "autopsy" on why it did it.

Applies to all mistakes.

[Ozkaban]

these are really good. I think with my skill level, I'll be a listener not a talker :D (unless I think of something suitable to plagiarise!)

Cheers,
Dave

[Broda]

dont leave in your live center or drill chuck with a bit in it while hollowing out a bowl:doh:

[NeilS]

When hollowing "manually", the tailstock makes a good support for your right elbow.


Just remove the centre point first so you don't get pincushion elbow...:)

Whoops... Brody had already picked that one up. Must read the whole thread before posting... :B

....

[NeilS]

Can't remember who I learnt this one from, as it was a long time ago. Probably some old production turner, and perhaps everyone knows about it, but here it is anyways.

To test if a blank has been roughed down to round, place the back of the roughing gouge on top of the blank while it is still spinning. The sound will tell you quickly if it is round yet or if there are still some flats left. Works for both spindle and half-log bowl blanks. Saves time turning the lathe off to visually check or applying the hand to the spindle before it's round.

....

[TTIT]

Can't remember who I learnt this one from, as it was a long time ago. Probably some old production turner, and perhaps everyone knows about it, but here it is anyways.

To test if a blank has been roughed down to round, place the back of the roughing gouge on top of the blank while it is still spinning. The sound will tell you quickly if it is round yet or if there are still some flats left. Works for both spindle and half-log bowl blanks. Saves time turning the lathe off to visually check or applying the hand to the spindle before it's round.

....What!!! :? - You mean instead of my thumb :?:? :;

[Ed Reiss]

Not a good idea to drink and drive...also not a good idea to turn after having a few :no:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Time spent on sharpening tools is never wasted; it becomes time saved while turning.

[jefferson]

Time spent on sharpening tools is never wasted; it becomes time saved while turning.

A good one, Andy - and to the point. Exactly what I was after for my "collection".


Not a good idea to drink and drive...also not a good idea to turn after having a few :no:

Ed, I can't agree entirely on this one. I turn frequently on valium and or a few beers. Nothing dangerous though, I assure you.

Ask the boys who've visited..... Calms my nerves a little. Just don't ask me to have a conversation with anyone while I turn, beers or not. But I will learn to talk at the same time, one day. :D:D

I have another one from somewhere.... (I have my suspicions as to the source but have nothing conclusive):

"The more acute the bevel on your scrapers, the more gentle you MUST be when touching the wood".

(A hard-learnt lesson for me, after a major catch). Watching V. Wood down at Phillip Island with a truly aggressive scraper was something to behold.

Or put another way: "The sharper the scraper, the more delicate touch you need".

Keep 'em coming. I've got a little black book of thoughts / wood turning dates / rules / tips that is becoming invaluable - to me at least. It was a present and I treasure it.

Another one from many on the forum:

"Buy a couple of quality chisels and learn to use them first".

That last one came 12 months too late for me, but never mind. I've finally given away / sold all of my firearm collection and the last Baretta got me $3K so I'm still in front.

A new direction in life, that's all. So forgive me for my excesses.

Please help me with this thread. Books and DVDs reveal so few secrets. Little things that you learn after watching someone else do it a different way are far more instructive. Stand over 's shoulder, switching the skew from his left to right hand is something to beyond.

I've had lessons from (well, quite a few) and his adage about going back and discovering why I made a mistake / catch helped immensely. Newbies need to know it.

I want to "catalogue" some of the stuff that doesn't appear in books - ready to hand onto a beginner / newbie on the forum. Say after Xmas. Any objections? Be prepared for some PMs though if you had a great idea / method / approach.

A "go-to" piece if you like. Dunno where it will lead. A "who's who" would be handy..... :wink: And I did get a chuckle when I saw Ken W and, more recently, Brendan Stemp coming up as Novices.

So what do you do differently? Or have seen others do differently. Little secrets, not "golden rules" like "the bevel must always rub" which is only partly true anyway.

What do you guys tell your students? I've been taught by experts and have forgotten too much of it. I want to help the next guy.

Eg. Last year I bought the VL100, thinking I needed a small lathe to turn items eg. finials. Now they tell me that the lathe I already had (the long-bed VL300) was the preferred tool for job. No vibration on the big machine. I never thought of it, didn't know and probably wasted $1700. Never mind. And I can assure you, that information is in none of my turning library, but it now sure makes sense.

Also, I've never seen Ken W's "crush chuck" before. I'll add it to the list.

The more I learn, the better I'll turn. And, maybe, so will some others in years to come.

I don't think I'm asking too much. (I've already asked so much before and none of you have said NO, so this is no great impost. :wink:) Well, a little. I promise to hand it back. is far to busy to finish his series.......

One or two liners, they don't have to be your own. Something you saw at a demo or a club event. Or on DVD. Just tell me where it came from. Different things. Words of advice or warnings. I'll copy verbatum (maybe making some suggestions from the novice point of view in a PM), then put it up.

My favour-return for the next poor bugger like me that asks (naively) "What lathe do I buy". Sure, he could do a search on the forum but he won't get the answer that says: If you want to turn fine spindle work like lace bobbins down to 2mm, you need a rock-solid heavy lathe without vibration. Head and tail stock should also align.

Just my thinking anyway. I don't turn or make furniture all the time, so I have some time. And many of you don't.

[Ed Reiss]

Ed, I can't agree entirely on this one. I turn frequently on valium and or a few beers. Nothing dangerous though, I assure you.

Ask the boys who've visited..... Calms my nerves a little. Just don't ask me to have a conversation with anyone while I turn, beers or not. But I will learn to talk at the same time, one day. http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/standard/biggrin.gifhttp://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/standard/biggrin.gif

Hey Jeff, happy to see your back to posting again after your bout with the flu or whatever it was.

There are exceptions to every rule and if popping a pill or having a couple of cold ones is what it takes, then so be it and more power to ya" :U

[Calm]

A good one, Andy - and to the point. Exactly what I was after for my "collection".



Ed, I can't agree entirely on this one. I turn frequently on valium and or a few beers. Nothing dangerous though, I assure you.

Ask the boys who've visited..... Calms my nerves a little. Just don't ask me to have a conversation with anyone while I turn, beers or not. But I will learn to talk at the same time, one day. :D:D

I have another one from somewhere.... (I have my suspicions as to the source but have nothing conclusive):

"The more acute the bevel on your scrapers, the more gentle you MUST be when touching the wood".

(A hard-learnt lesson for me, after a major catch). Watching V. Wood down at Phillip Island with a truly aggressive scraper was something to behold.

Or put another way: "The sharper the scraper, the more delicate touch you need".

Keep 'em coming. I've got a little black book of thoughts / wood turning dates / rules / tips that is becoming invaluable - to me at least. It was a present and I treasure it.

Another one from many on the forum:

"Buy a couple of quality chisels and learn to use them first".

That last one came 12 months too late for me, but never mind. I've finally given away / sold all of my firearm collection and the last Baretta got me $3K so I'm still in front.

A new direction in life, that's all. So forgive me for my excesses.

Please help me with this thread. Books and DVDs reveal so few secrets. Little things that you learn after watching someone else do it a different way are far more instructive. Stand over 's shoulder, switching the skew from his left to right hand is something to beyond.

I've had lessons from (well, quite a few) and his adage about going back and discovering why I made a mistake / catch helped immensely. Newbies need to know it.

I want to "catalogue" some of the stuff that doesn't appear in books - ready to hand onto a beginner / newbie on the forum. Say after Xmas. Any objections? Be prepared for some PMs though if you had a great idea / method / approach.

A "go-to" piece if you like. Dunno where it will lead. A "who's who" would be handy..... :wink: And I did get a chuckle when I saw Ken W and, more recently, Brendan Stemp coming up as Novices.

So what do you do differently? Or have seen others do differently. Little secrets, not "golden rules" like "the bevel must always rub" which is only partly true anyway.

What do you guys tell your students? I've been taught by experts and have forgotten too much of it. I want to help the next guy.

Eg. Last year I bought the VL100, thinking I needed a small lathe to turn items eg. finials. Now they tell me that the lathe I already had (the long-bed VL300) was the preferred tool for job. No vibration on the big machine. I never thought of it, didn't know and probably wasted $1700. Never mind. And I can assure you, that information is in none of my turning library, but it now sure makes sense.

Also, I've never seen Ken W's "crush chuck" before. I'll add it to the list.

The more I learn, the better I'll turn. And, maybe, so will some others in years to come.

I don't think I'm asking too much. (I've already asked so much before and none of you have said NO, so this is no great impost. :wink:) Well, a little. I promise to hand it back. is far to busy to finish his series.......

One or two liners, they don't have to be your own. Something you saw at a demo or a club event. Or on DVD. Just tell me where it came from. Different things. Words of advice or warnings. I'll copy verbatum (maybe making some suggestions from the novice point of view in a PM), then put it up.

My favour-return for the next poor bugger like me that asks (naively) "What lathe do I buy". Sure, he could do a search on the forum but he won't get the answer that says: If you want to turn fine spindle work like lace bobbins down to 2mm, you need a rock-solid heavy lathe without vibration. Head and tail stock should also align.

Just my thinking anyway. I don't turn or make furniture all the time, so I have some time. And many of you don't.

What are you on tonight jeff - this post is an excyclopedaia :D:D:p:p

Cheers

[Broda]

not just for turning, but if you find your toolrest/tailstock hard to move, instead of buying fancy smanshy extra virgin, homogenised, depulped and expensive waxes for it, just rub a bit of greaseproof paper over your bed. works really good.

"Crumple up some grease-proof paper and rub it vigorously on you table saw table and the beds of your planer and jointer. Besides protecting them from rust, it also forms a slick surface"- Issue 64 October 2008 Australian Woodsmith Magazine

dont rub too vigorously though, if your bed it too slippery, you wont be able to clamp your tailstock to the bed without it moving backwards when you tighten it.

I'll add more as i think of them

[jefferson]

What are you on tonight jeff - this post is an excyclopedaia :D:D:p:p

Cheers

Just the usual Calm. A few VBs and a white wine. Still crook as, trying to get off the fags - and trying as best I can to repay what you guys have done for me and thus for the next newbie. :)

So where is your "tip"? Aside from buying a Stubby? :D:D:D I was expecting something along the lines of:

"Learn to turn both hands. If you cut towards the head-stock, use your left hand so your body doesn't get in the way. The opposite applies when turning towards the tail stock."


not just for turning, but if you find your toolrest/tailstock hard to move, instead of buying fancy smanshy extra virgin, homogenised, depulped and expensive waxes for it, just rub a bit of greaseproof paper over your bed. works really good.

"Crumple up some grease-proof paper and rub it vigorously on you table saw table and the beds of your planer and jointer. Besides protecting them from rust, it also forms a slick surface"- Issue 64 October 2008 Australian Woodsmith Magazine

dont rub too vigorously though, if your bed it too slippery, you wont be able to clamp your tailstock to the bed without it moving backwards when you tighten it.

I'll add more as i think of them

Thanks, Broda, that's a good one. I'll add it to the list. I'll test the paper on my VL tomorrow but I already know the tailstock won't move. :wink:

[Wilco Flier]

Take a handfull of shavings and polish the wood with it while the lathe is running on his highest speed

[KenW]

This comes C/o Tim Skilton.

Use the 50% rule for choosing sandpaper grades; e.g. if you start sanding at P100 then the next grade to use would be 100 + 50% (50) = P150. Next is P150 + 75 (50% 0f 150) = 225 or P220. Next is 220 +110 = 330 or 320, and so on. I start at P80 then 120, 180, 240, 320, 500, 800, 1200....

You can buy sandpaper coarser than 240 grit.

[bookend]

Swearing is an important step in recovering from catches. (Think about it!)

There is no such thing as a sacred toolrest. File it smooth.

Digging requires muscle power. Turning requires sharp tools.

If the workpiece rattles, step aside before reducing the speed.

[bookend]

After more thought:

If you turn by the "What'll it look like if I put one of those there" school of design, keep a hammer handy. You might end up too embarrassed to use the end result as a whole piece of firewood.


"If you can't see it, you can't turn it."

Another one on a similar line to Skew's:

Sight is not the same as vision.

[Broda]

Shavings come off the gouge very hot!

[Texian]

Before turning the inside of a bowl, drill a depth hole with a twist drill (shallow point). Then you don't have to check every few minutes to see if you have reached the bottom yet.

[Ed Reiss]

If it's not cutting well it will not magically get sharp on it's own...stop and sharpen it.

[Daddy3x]

Having only touched a lathe less than two years ago because of a chance encounter with a turner who offered to let me try his lathe, I will share what he told me.
"Woodturners are artists and craftsmen who share unlike many other artists, an unselfish lot. So be sure to listen, watch, ask and give back."

[Rum Pig]

Read this in magazine
If your chisels are not cutting and the lathe is running and your chisels are definitely sharp.
Your lathe is properly running in reverse:doh:

[turnerted]

Do a final sand with the lathe stationary , rubbing in the direction of the grain .

Ted

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Good one, Ted! :2tsup:

Along similar lines; don't be cheap with your sandpaper!

When 180 grit wears out it may only sand as fast as 240 grit, but that doesn't make it into 240 grit. It's still 180 grit, just doing a bad job.

Throw it away and use the right grit for the next stage of the job!

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

And:

HSS is not necessarily better than good quality carbon steel. In fact, carbon steel can hold a sharper edge for longer. It's just not as forgiving when sharpening.

Which leads to:

When sharpening, only take a couple of passes, don't overheat the tool and let it cool down for a few seconds between passes. Don't quench it, let it air-cool.

This isn't really necessary for HSS, but it's a good habit to get into; especially when you're using a mate's tools and he does have good quality CS tools. If you already sharpen as for CS tools, then you won't blue 'em and won't get your mate yelling at you! :;

[RETIRED]

From Wolverine Grinding Jig & Accessories (http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/index.htm)



Professional turners have two distinct advantages over the hobbyist turner when it comes to sharpening tools:


Professional turners have a lot more experience at the grinder, so are more qualified to sharpen tools.
Professional turners have more experience at the lathe, so they are better equipped to handle tools which behave differently. If they don't get exactly the same shape on their tool after they grind it, they can easily compensate, while the hobbyist may have more troubles from their tools if they don't behave in a predictable fashion.

Too true and one statement that made me spend a fortune on sharpening equipment for students.:D

[jefferson]

Now we are starting to get somewhere! :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup: Thanks people.

We've had lots of great tips, mostly on sharpening and sanding. Keep 'em coming and I promise to put it all together - for the next new guy. :) Poor bugger, but I hope he gets the bug. :D

What gaps are there? I don't see a lot of purely "turning" tips.

I recall one trip down to DJ's place at E. Warburton, when DJ was turning some S & P grinders out of fiddleback redgum, he tried the skew with a planing cut. Plenty of tear-out. Then he switched over to a bowl gouge (BTW, both tools Tormek-sharp) and no worries. I can't explain the theory but it worked. Another good tip for novices.

And some "cheating" ways would be good too - you don't necessarily have to roll tiny beads with a skew or gouge. Use the parting tool instead - thanks Ken W.

I'm sure you guys have some more secrets to share. Again, it may seem mundane to many of you, but not for those working alone without experience, not so.

Thanks again

[bellyup]

Jeff,

You must have been reading my mind ( or whats left of it) I was just thinking today as I beavered away at the lathe that I have a few things that I've learnt and work for me.

Lemon juice (99% pure stuff , not cordial) that can be purchased in plastic bottles at the supermarket makes the best hand-cleaner, better than any soap, also excellent for finding those little nicks and cuts!
Tighten your chuck more than once at each tool point before you start.
Maintain tail stock presure through-out the job.
Worn out sandpaper only makes the timber hot - hot wood cracks.
Bruce.

[funkychicken]

If the timber is cracked, don't turn it. If you think I'm kidding look at my avatar

[Allan at Wallan]

DONT

- keep a chisel under one arm whilst using another on the work.

DONT

- have chisels resting on the lathe bed - vibrations do happen.


I frequently see turners adopting such bad habits and it is only
a matter of time before a chisel drops and causes injury.

Allan

[Groggy]

Sanding


"never turn what you cannot sand" Vic Wood
Use the 50% rule for choosing sandpaper grades; e.g. if you start sanding at P100 then the next grade to use would be 100 + 50% (50) = P150. Next is P150 + 75 (50% 0f 150) = 225 or P220. Next is 220 +110 = 330 or 320, and so on. I start at P80 then 120, 180, 240, 320, 500, 800, 1200....Tim Skilton
When sanding, remove all traces of dust from the work before you move onto the next grade". (Dusty with an air gun, but it works!) DJ's Timber
Take a handfull of shavings and polish the wood with it while the lathe is running on his highest speed. Wilco Flyer
Do a final sand with the lathe stationary , rubbing in the direction of the grain. turnerted
When 180 grit wears out it may only sand as fast as 240 grit, but that doesn't make it into 240 grit. It's still 180 grit, just doing a bad job. Throw it away and use the right grit for the next stage of the job! Skew ChiDAMN
OZ hardwoods do not like heat. When sanding, slow the speed down to minimum revs. Sandpaper is meant to be used at or near to hand-speed. And if your fingers are getting hot, so is the wood - and it will/ may crack.. belllyup and jefferson


Safety


Wear safety gear
Don't wear ear-muffs when turning. Listen to the wood. If you hear a "tick", stop the lathe and find out why...."
dont leave in your live center or drill chuck with a bit in it while hollowing out a bowl. Broda
Not a good idea to drink and drive...also not a good idea to turn after having a few. Ed Reiss
If the workpiece rattles, step aside before reducing the speed. bookend
If the timber is cracked, don't turn it. funkychicken
Don't keep a chisel under one arm whilst using another on the work. Allen at Wallan
Don't have chisels resting on the lathe bed - vibrations do happen. Allen at Wallan

Turning


The Universal Turning Truths Russ Fairfield
"if you decorate with lines, only use two, otherwise you have to measure" Vic Wood
Ken W. was showing me how to hot melt a piece for a box onto a waste block. He first put a centred dimple in the piece at the tail-stock end, brought the tail stock up, ready to go. Then he put hot-melt on the waste block, leaving a gap in the glue for the air to escape, then quickly bringing the tail-stock up to "clamp" the wood on the waste block. Because of the dimple, it went in dead-centre.

If you applying a large amount of hotmelt glue soften with a heat gun just before contacting it with the mating piece.
Also hotmelt glue doesn't like shiney/slick surfaces a few stokes of 60g sand paper gives it a key to bond too.
If you can't see it, you can't turn it. Skew ChiDAMN
When hollowing "manually", the tailstock makes a good support for your right elbow. Texian (Richard)
If you have a catch, switch off the lathe and turning it by hand do an "autopsy" on why it did it.
To test if a blank has been roughed down to round, place the back of the roughing gouge on top of the blank while it is still spinning. The sound will tell you quickly if it is round yet or if there are still some flats left. Works for both spindle and half-log bowl blanks. Saves time turning the lathe off to visually check or applying the hand to the spindle before it's round.
Tighten your chuck more than once at each tool point before you start. belllyup
Maintain tail stock presure through-out the job. belllyup

Scrapers


The sharper the scraper, the more delicate touch you need

Bowls

Before turning the inside of a bowl, drill a depth hole with a twist drill (shallow point). Then you don't have to check every few minutes to see if you have reached the bottom yet. Texian


Skew


Don't expect to accurately turn beads with the skew 100% of the time. For beginners, the spindle gouge is a much safer option

Chucks
If you can't afford two decent chucks, buy one with two different sets of jaws. Put up with the inconvenience of changing jaws. Or learn to use faceplates". Sources: too many to mention, starting with Ern and Ken W.
When purchasing a lathe (or chuck), ask the retailer to demo the item before you hand over the cash. Check out whether the head and tail stocks align. For chucks, make sure there is no run-out. Ed Reiss.
Preferably, use a chuck in contraction rather than expansion mode. And ensure that the tenon (almost) matches the 'round' diameter of your chuck. Use a bigger chuck for bigger work. (Source, Vicmarc manual, , Ken W, Calm..... and a long list thereafter)


Sharpening


Time spent on sharpening tools is never wasted; it becomes time saved while turning. Skew ChiDAMN
Digging requires muscle power. Turning requires sharp tools. bookend
If it's not cutting well it will not magically get sharp on it's own...stop and sharpen it. Ed Reiss
When sharpening, only take a couple of passes, don't overheat the tool and let it cool down for a few seconds between passes. Don't quench it, let it air-cool. This isn't really necessary for HSS, but it's a good habit to get into; especially when you're using a mate's tools and he does have good quality CS tools. If you already sharpen as for CS tools, then you won't blue 'em and won't get your mate yelling at you! Skew ChiDAMN
Professional turners have two distinct advantages over the hobbyist turner when it comes to sharpening tools:
Professional turners have a lot more experience at the grinder, so are more qualified to sharpen tools.
Professional turners have more experience at the lathe, so they are better equipped to handle tools which behave differently. If they don't get exactly the same shape on their tool after they grind it, they can easily compensate, while the hobbyist may have more troubles from their tools if they don't behave in a predictable fashion. From Wolverine Grinding Jig & Accessories

Maintenance

if you find your toolrest/tailstock hard to move, instead of buying fancy smanshy extra virgin, homogenised, depulped and expensive waxes for it, just rub a bit of greaseproof paper over your bed. works really good.
There is no such thing as a sacred toolrest. File it smooth. bookend

General

Woodturners are artists and craftsmen who share unlike many other artists, an unselfish lot. So be sure to listen, watch, ask and give back.
Lemon juice (99% pure stuff , not cordial) that can be purchased in plastic bottles at the supermarket makes the best hand-cleaner, better than any soap, also excellent for finding those little nicks and cuts! bellyup

[Sawdust Maker]

...


Another one on a similar line to Skew's:

Sight is not the same as vision.

very very insightful :2tsup:

[jefferson]

Groggy, well done! :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Thanks a heap.

I'm sure we can get some more tips, but that is a great summary thus far.

Can I add (or amend earlier suggestions) to one under the sanding heading:

"OZ hardwoods do not like heat. When sanding, slow the speed down to minimum revs. Sandpaper is meant to be used at or near to hand-speed. And if your fingers are getting hot, so is the wood - and it will/ may crack.

Moral to the story is take your time, have a cuppa (or beer) when you start at the high-end grits. And spend as much time with your finishing as your turning". (Sources too many to mention, all from the Board).

Or is that too long-winded?

(I learnt this one after cracking the base of a nice blackwood box. Of course, I asked the question here and the forum answers came flooding in within the day. :2tsup:).

Enough said.

That's what this thread is about - for me anyway. Helping the next aspiring turner along his or her way.

Another one:

"When you start turning, take lessons from at least two respected (but different) turners. A "production" turner is a good start. Both will teach you different ways and give you alternatives to what suits YOU."

And yet another:

"Don't expect to accurately turn beads with the skew 100% of the time. For beginners, the spindle gouge is a much safer option". (Again, too many sources).

And another:

"If you can't afford two decent chucks, buy one with two different sets of jaws. Put up with the inconvenience of changing jaws. Or learn to use faceplates". Sources: too many to mention, starting with Ern and Ken W.

And another:

"When purchasing a lathe (or chuck), ask the retailer to demo the item before you hand over the cash. Check out whether the head and tail stocks align. For chucks, make sure there is no run-out. (Source: Ed Reiss).

And another:

"Preferably, use a chuck in contraction rather than expansion mode. And ensure that the tenon (almost) matches the 'round' diameter of your chuck. Use a bigger chuck for bigger work. (Source, Vicmarc manual, , Ken W, Calm..... and a long list thereafter).

More tomorrow, no doubt.

There is so much to learn and tell...... :rolleyes:

(Tea Lady, where is your entry on turning finials?)

Truth be told, I probably have all the gear anyone would need. But I think newbies on a tight budget need some advice from expert turners that turn well "on a budget". (That's you Andy, so do tell some more!)

What if all you can afford is a $1000 lathe? Please, tell these potential new turners all the pitfalls. The pros and cons of fixed v. variable speed etc.

I am blessed, I know it, but even with all the gear - without the knowledge - it makes little difference. Sure, I love my LB VL300 and Calm's Stubby 750 but that's not "entry" level.

So let's continue and try to add to the forum "corporate knowledge bank". The advice doesn't have to all agree.

No grammer or spell check here, so I hope the above makes sense.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

When turning wood held in the chuck, always allow extra waste for parting off or reverse mount to finish the base. Do not try to turn right down to the jaws.

It's not good for the jaws, the tool, the tool-rest or your fingers when steel touches steel. :seald:

[tea lady]

(Tea Lady, where is your entry on turning finials?)

:? Its there isn't it?:C

Here's a tip or two.
A small point but not actually said yet: if the sand paper is getting hot its probably not cutting anymore. Its rubbing. So move on to another spot. Will help the wood not get so hot.:cool:

To get the feel of an action or nack of doing something, do it a lot. Don't be afraid of feeling like a production turner. If it can become second nature that is when you can turn that beautiful one off peice out of that amazing piece of wood without stressing too much, and without wrecking it. (This comes from my pottery days. I had a part time job throwing pasta bowls. After a couple of hundred I nearly felt like I knew how they went.:cool: ) And its good being able to just think about the form and design, not the technique. And it IS in fact enjoyable and relaxing.:cool:

[Texian]

Oh yeah, that other version about sanding. Use sandpaper as if someone else was paying for it.

[Fireguard]

When applying a finish with a cloth, use a small "pad" and not a whole cloth wrapped around your hand/fingers... because the cloth and your hand/fingers could get wrapped around your work .:upset:

[Sebastiaan56]

my 2c,

Get more light on the piece than you need, on the left, right top and particularly from the tailstock. Its amazing what you can see when you take your piece into daylight.

Sharpen before your turning session starts, if you do it in the middle you will rush it, and when you are finished you want to go and do something else anyway.

Sometimes ##### happens, its not you, its the timber, you will get hidden inclusions and cracks. Dont get discouraged.

[Rum Pig]

And:

HSS is not necessarily better than good quality carbon steel. In fact, carbon steel can hold a sharper edge for longer. It's just not as forgiving when sharpening.

Which leads to:

When sharpening, only take a couple of passes, don't overheat the tool and let it cool down for a few seconds between passes. Don't quench it, let it air-cool.

This isn't really necessary for HSS, but it's a good habit to get into; especially when you're using a mate's tools and he does have good quality CS tools. If you already sharpen as for CS tools, then you won't blue 'em and won't get your mate yelling at you! :;
Never sharpen your mates tools. No matter how good you are you will never do it like them:no:

[RETIRED]

Never sharpen your mates tools. No matter how good you are you will never do it like them:no:or make sure you ask first.

[Farnk]

How about:

If you want to turn wood use a lathe? :wink:

But seriously folks......

If you are working on a piece and it all starts to go wrong and you're getting frustrated, take the piece off the lathe and put it on the shelf. You will go much better in a week or so when you are able to focus.

[steck]

Take a handfull of shavings and polish the wood with it while the lathe is running on his highest speed
If you do polish your work with a handful of shavings, make sure you take the shavings before you start sanding or it may contain GRIT from the sand paper!

[nalmo]

If I'm getting impatient, and don't seem to be removing material fast enough, that little Richard Raffan in my head keeps telling me "Let the wood come to the tool. Don't force the tool into the wood, think of it as easing the tool forward as wood is removed." Always results in a cleaner, more controlled cut.

[Cliff Rogers]

When hollowing "manually", the tailstock makes a good support for your right elbow.
I have a nice dent in my right elbow that seems to match the tailstock perfectly. :rolleyes:

[Cliff Rogers]

dont leave in your live center or drill chuck with a bit in it while hollowing out a bowl:doh:


Just remove the centre point first so you don't get pincushion elbow...:)

Whoops... Brody had already picked that one up. Must read the whole thread before posting... :B

....
That is what I was talking about in my last post, in case you hadn't guessed. :D

[Cliff Rogers]

You can buy sandpaper coarser than 240 grit.
Was that meant to be a statement or a question? :D

[Broda]

mostly meant for spindal work-
to add some detail to your piece, where there are perpendicular(?) surfaces (eg. where you've made a parting tool cut straight down into the wood) you can friction burn a line onto the very edge by pressing (hard) onto the edge.
I hope that made sense, I had a hard time explaining it... if no-one understands this I'll get a picture.
source- Bernie the (ex)woodturner out at timbertown.

[peterpiper]

A spanner can make a decent caliper, ie. when turning down to a specific diameter, say 13mm, try a 14mm spanner on the blank as a rough guide, when it fits it's time to get serious, (or sanding).
Can't remember where I got this from, but it works for me!!
pete

[Cliff Rogers]

I have to chip this one in, I have found several good ideas on the Laymar Crafts (http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/indexmodified.htm) site.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Don't "put up with" dings in your tool rest from bad catches. File 'em out.

It's worth the effort, making turning both easier & safer. (Unless you're silly enough to leave a sharp edge on the toolrest. But you'll only do that once. :B)

[hughie]

Don't "put up with" dings in your tool rest from bad catches. File 'em out.Had to weld up some of my more serious dings :U broke the end off the cast iron tool rest more than once :o :C



240 grit, coarser yep, have some 60 grit around somewheres,look like a gravel road :U and you can get 40 grit, or used to be able to do so


I have a nice dent in my right elbow that seems to match the tailstock perfectly. http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/http://cdn.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/standard/rolleyes.gifBeen there and done once too often :(( so now I remove the tail stock when not needed.

For the best tip I can offer up is 'do not over tighten any thing on your lathe'

[I_wanna_Shed]

Here are two very basic ones that I haven't seen mentioned yet. Basic, but important for newcomers.

1. Always rotate the job by hand before powering on to ensure the timber and chuck clear the lathe components and tool rest.

2. Especially when turning large, off-centre or out-of-round blanks, start the lathe slooooowly.

Nathan.

[Frank&Earnest]

Here's are two very basic ones that I haven't seen mentioned yet. Basic, but important for newcomers.

1. Always rotate the job by hand before powering on to ensure the timber and chuck clear the lathe components and tool rest.

2. Especially when turning large, off-centre or out-of-round blanks, start the lathe slooooowly.

Nathan.

The reason nobody mentioned these is that we all learnt them the first time we mounted something on the lathe. :D

[I_wanna_Shed]

The reason nobody mentioned these is that we all learnt them the first time we mounted something on the lathe. :D

Yep, I learnt them that way aswell.... :-

[Ozkaban]

coarser yep, have some 60 grit around somewheres,look like a gravel road :U and you can get 40 grit, or used to be able to do so


I did a turning course with John Ewart, and he mentioned the '20-grit gouge' that somebody sourced for him once... Would have been as rough as a cinder block, I reckon!

Cheers,
Dave

[Ray153]

When hollowing a bowl/vase, it is much safer to remove the built up shavings once the lathe is stopped on a regular basis, the build up can add a surprising amount of inertia and stress to a piece and if it is thin or has micro cracks, accidents will happen eventually.

It is often a wise idea to slightly round over or "break" the lip of thin walled vessels such as goblets etc so to avoid cuts from a very sharp edge.

Never stand directly in front of a piece when you turn on the lathe, no matter how securely you think you have got the piece held.

Same applies when applying a liquid finish, don't be in front of the lathe when turning it back on as centrifigul force will tend to "pull" the unpleasant tasting liquid finish off and you will either end up drinking it, getting it in your eyes or at least on your clothes.

Fit a "no volt" plug to your lathe, so if there is a disruption to the power supply, it won't start spinning when the power is restored

[Broda]

It is often a wise idea to slightly round over or "break" the lip of thin walled vessels such as goblets etc so to avoid cuts from a very sharp edge.

yep!
done that before...lots:doh:

It hurts too!

[bookend]

Here is a sanding one I haven't seen mentioned

For small areas of tearout, sand with the lathe turned off. It saves a lot of time.

Also

When using a long hole auger, mark the auger with a permanent marker at 2cm intervals and withdraw the auger totally from the lathe after every 2cm of drilling. Make sure you clean the dust thoroughly from the auger after each withdrawal too.

Gee it hurts when you have a gorgeous piece of timber, you drill from both ends and the holes don't meet. I did this once with a 3x3 piece of flawless jarrah because I left a bit of dust in the handle end of the auger groove. :cry3: :doh:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

When mounting a piece in a chuck, don't assume that the chuck is tight just before you put some effort into doing it it up.

After the first few roughing cuts, stop the lathe and check again. It's not unusual for the chuck to develop some slack at the beginning.

(Says me, who converted a nice, thinly turned piece of Ironwood into firewood today due to the arrogance of thinking "Nar, it'll be right..." :C)

[Ed Reiss]

When mounting a piece in a chuck, don't assume that the chuck is tight just before you put some effort into doing it it up.

After the first few roughing cuts, stop the lathe and check again. It's not unusual for the chuck to develop some slack at the beginning.

(Says me, who converted a nice, thinly turned piece of Ironwood into firewood today due to the arrogance of thinking "Nar, it'll be right..." :C)

....apparently it Twer'nt :;

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

....apparently it Twer'nt :;

Only for a second. :rolleyes:

[Manuka Jock]

Top thread this , cheers to all :2tsup:

Any chance of this being a 'sticky' ?

[bellyup]

Ray mentioned turning on the lathe and spraying yourself with polish liquid...... a worse one than that is thinking the CA/superglue you applied to fissures and cracks has all dried and then turning on the lathe...... man that stuff stings the eyes (yeah, I know, but I'd taken my safety glasses off for a good look)
It also coats the bed making it v. hard to slid the banjo around ( ooh, that sounds a bit rude :B)

[Manuka Jock]

Finishes ;

I like the high gloss finish for display pieces , where the hard work doesn't get marked with use.
And the low sheen ones , satin , oil etc , for working treen .

[TTIT]

TIP: If you have to leave an unfinished piece on the lathe overnight or longer, slip a plastic bag over it so it's still the same shape when you get back to it!

[peterpiper]

Brand names don't cut wood, sharp tools do.
pete

[NeilS]

TIP: If you have to leave an unfinished piece on the lathe overnight or longer, slip a plastic bag over it so it's still the same shape when you get back to it!

:2tsup:... TTIT

And, if green, try to leave the chuck out of the plastic bag to avoid rusting. A piece of gladwrap between the chuck jaws and blank also minimises rust on the jaws and stain on the wood.

And, if large and green and is going to be left for any length of time, leave with the grain horizontal: otherwise it will be be out of balance when you spin up again.

.....

[arose62]

1. You can always make it smaller.
2. It’s only wood, and you can burn it at any stage.
3. Catches are not problems, but rather artistic opportunities.
4. The longer it has been since you had a catch, the closer you are to having one. Nobody gets it right all the time.
5. Practice may not make you perfect, but it certainly produces a lot of shavings.
6. If you’re not having fun, you’re probably doing something wrong.
7. When things happen on the lathe, they happen FAST.

[rsser]

There was a thread on sanding a while ago that I don't have the bandwidth to find. Later edited and posted here (http://ern.reeders.net.au/blog/sanding-turned-bowls-and-platters). And a subsequent one on how to minimise sanding that didn't get very far.

A few tips to add:

1. Often it's easier to see progress turning large bits between centres to look at the top of the piece.

2. If you can, occasionally take the piece out and view it vertically.

[jefferson]

Alright,

I promised to bring all the "tips" together some time back. I forgot about it.

I'm off to Prossie mid next week, so any and all "late" entries will be accepted for a while yet.

Remember too that the audience is for newbies. If the "powers at be" like it enough. They can do a search anyway.

And remember all you guys/gals seem to forget or take so much for granted that what IS important to new turners is just "common" to experienced turners.

Example:

When roughing out a blank (any blank), I used to dial the speed back as soon as the lathe vibrated. I didn't know that faster was better then. No-one told me either to crank the speed up some more to find the "sweet" spot at a faster speed.

Frank & Ernest (and quite a few others I might add) are giving me lessons in keeping my messages short.

SO GET OFF YOUR BUTTS. :U

Short enough, Calm? :D:D:D (AKA, the Ballarat Speedster).

[brendan stemp]

I learnt this many moons ago but it seems to be a practise that has been lost in the mist of time.
After doing the final sanding wipe the wood with metho. The metho does three things: raises the grain (nap - is that the right term Neil?) so that you can get a smoother finish, it highlights those blemishes that will be highlighted when a finish is applied and it will evaporate quickly (unlike water). I think Vic Wood introduced me to this and we used to light the metho for extra effect (and to dry the metho off quicker) but we made sure we rotated the wood so it didn't burn any section.

A coarse cotton weave rag makes for very good polishing rags (think the old Bonds singlet material).

Colour coded sandpaper is wonderful stuff making it soooooo easy to identify your grits.

[jefferson]

Brendan - thanks for that one. I will try it.

We have maybe 70 odd "tips" so I need more...... :rolleyes:

Keep them coming, please. The next "newbie" needs a "first point of call.

[NeilS]

Can't remember who I learnt this one from, as it was a long time ago. Probably some old production turner, and perhaps everyone knows about it, but here it is anyways.

To test if a blank has been roughed down to round, place the back of the roughing gouge on top of the blank while it is still spinning. The sound will tell you quickly if it is round yet or if there are still some flats left. Works for both spindle and half-log bowl blanks. Saves time turning the lathe off to visually check or applying the hand to the spindle before it's round.

....

That one from me was a bit long winded to meet the one or two lines stipulation by Jeff, so here is the same idea in less words:

A quick way to test if a blank has been roughed down to round is place the back of the roughing gouge on top of the blank while it is still spinning. If it rattles it's not there yet.

And, just in case it hasn't been covered already.

Stand out of the firing line of a new bowl blank until you can 'feel' that it is running at a safe speed.

Bleeding obvious, I know, but better said than assumed.

And, another related one.

A hand on the headstock makes a good 'safe speed' tachometer.

.....

[jefferson]

Thanks, Neil, the last couple are good ones.

Add another:

"When hot-gluing a bowl or platter blank to waste on a face-plate, ensure that you flatten (by plane or otherwise) your block of wood.

If you don't, it may go west in the event of mishap i.e. an over-aggressive cut with a scraper."

If you want to know......

I ignored Tip No 82 and thought the hot melt would stick. All was going fine, even after I turned the "tit" off the redgum platter with the tail-stock up. Until I presented too much of the scraper to the wood.....

Scared the you know what out of me, but no damage done.

I thought about calling someone who knows better, but this is what I did:

- face-off the sacrificial ply and removed all the glue (which was only really attached on the outside of the ply)

- mount the 370mm platter in the bowl jaws, trued up a face

- re-mounted the face block in the tail stock after applying glue

- with those big S & P live centres, got the face block almost perfectly on the wood, still attached in the bowl jaws, with some pressure

- waited for the hot-melt to cool, took the platter out of the jaws and turned it around to start over again

I got tired in the finish. The redgum kept moving and moving all day. Super-glued cracks/ voids maybe 6 / 7 times.....

Anyway, I'll get there. Maybe. :rolleyes:

[brendan stemp]

Tip for use of a scroll chuck: mark jaw no.1; I use some electrical tape on the outside rim of the chuck adjacent to jaw 1. Before taking a piece of wood off the lathe/out of chuck mark, on the timber, where jaw no.1 has been so that if you need to remount the wood into the chuck you will always remount it in the same position (using the same jaw indentations in the wood) and the wood will run true.

[brendan stemp]

Timber movement isn't always a product of the drying process. When timber is taken off timber stresses are relieved and the timber will move, even if timber is dry. So, when turning a lidded container, for instance, rough turn it first (taking as much timber away as you can) and then give the timber time to move before doing the final turning and fitting of lid to body.

[hughie]

Hmm, a common difficulty I find with some when they first set out to turn a bowl etc.
Is that when the finally shaping is occurring they watch the tool.

Never watch the tool tip when shaping, always watch the horizon or the opposite side of the object being turned.

[Manuka Jock]

Treat all your work as potential masterpieces .
Because sometimes a firewood practice bit turns out to be the best thing you have done for ages :D

[brendan stemp]

Glue a small washer to the end of pencil (not the lead end) and place a small rare earth magnet on the banjo of your lathe. Now, you will never lose your pencil again as it will always be attached to the magnet on your banjo when not in use.

This idea comes c/o Terry Scott

[Cliff Rogers]

That trick works with clutch pencil too, the metal clip stick to the magnet. :2tsup:

[ticklingmedusa]

Burls are treasure...
if you can avoid burning them and stay warm
I'd like to have them. :D

One master says "if you cannot see the end result in the blank
you choose then you should put it back on the shelf for a while."