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redgum
13th October 2009, 02:55 PM
I have just taken the plunge and purchased a Jet 16" bandsaw to be used mainly for bowl blank preparation. Can anyone make recommendations for the best blades to purchase. I will also want to use it for some cabinet making in the future so I assume I will need a fairly fine blade for that work.

Ozkaban
13th October 2009, 03:01 PM
I'm interested in this too... Mostly just preparing blanks for me though.

Cheers,
Dave

Jim Carroll
13th October 2009, 05:14 PM
1/4" x 3 or 4 tpiskip tooth will work great for bowl blanks etc

RETIRED
13th October 2009, 05:24 PM
I only use a 3/8 3tpi skip tooth blade for everything and as those on the board who have used it will tell you, it works very well.:D

Grumpy John
13th October 2009, 05:29 PM
:2tsup::whs:

Calm
13th October 2009, 05:32 PM
Yep same here - from C&S Saw Service 03 9802 1040 wioll post Australia wide

Cheers

Frank&Earnest
13th October 2009, 09:38 PM
What would you recommend for ripping 12" logs? I have used a 1 1/4" blade but from what you guys say it looks a bit of an overkill.

RETIRED
13th October 2009, 09:43 PM
i only use a 3/8 3tpi skip tooth blade for everything and as those on the board who have used it will tell you, it works very well.:d


what would you recommend for ripping 12" logs? I have used a 1 1/4" blade but from what you guys say it looks a bit of an overkill.:d

TTIT
13th October 2009, 10:41 PM
What would you recommend for ripping 12" logs? I have used a 1 1/4" blade but from what you guys say it looks a bit of an overkill.As usual, I do things a little differently :B. I have 2 16" saws so I keep a 1"- 1.3TPI bi-metal on one for all my ripping and breaking down of small logs and a 1/2"- 3TPI on the other saw for circle cutting. The bi-metal is the only thing that will stand up to the timber I cut out here and anything smaller would be too hard to re-sharpen. . . . . . . . . and I'm basically impatient so I like it to cut like butter and not wait to erode it's way through :;:U

NeilS
13th October 2009, 10:45 PM
I only use a 3/8 3tpi skip tooth blade for everything and as those on the board who have used it will tell you, it works very well.:D

:2tsup:.... Adelaide Saw Works (http://www.sawworks.com.au/) could look after you on that, Redgum.


What would you recommend for ripping 12" logs? I have used a 1 1/4" blade but from what you guys say it looks a bit of an overkill.

:2tsup:... the 1 1/4" blade does a nice job of ripping 12"diam logs. I've ripped 12" logs up to 6ft long on my 19" Leda (similar to yours Frank) with a second pair of hands to get it on the table and to take the out-feed. You could probably do logs of that length by yourself with in and out-feed rollers. An extended fence and some form of straight board nailed to the log helps to get a straight cut. May have to pre-flatten that part of the log that sits on the BS bed to avoid rocking.

But changing between the 3/8" and 1 1/4" blades is always a pain.....:(. It would be very nice to have two BS, like TTIT

.....

dai sensei
13th October 2009, 11:21 PM
I too have a JET 16 and use the blade recommends for just about everything except ripping large quantities of bigger green logs. I found as soon as the smaller blade got blunt it wandered and jammed ripping the bigger green logs, mind you I do a lot of acacias, gums and desert hardwoods.

When I have a lot of green large logs to rip I use the 25mm (largest blade the 16 can take) 1tpi bimetal blade from C&S. It is easy to sharpen using those chainsaw grinder bits in the dremmel. I tend to get at least 7-8 sharpens out of each blade.

Frank&Earnest
14th October 2009, 12:35 AM
OK then, thank you all. I'll keep aside the 1 1/4" for the odd hacking, the 1/2" fine tooth for the odd veneering and mount a new 3/8 3tpi skip tooth blade for everything (else):D

BTW, on the small Ryobi I have already a 1/4" blade, if I put the 3/8" on the Leda I might as well put a 1/8" on that for very small jobs.

NeilS: Have you tried Central Saws at Edwardstown? I have been told they are the only ones around here to stock the thinnest blades.

IMHO for city hobbyists sharpening is not really an issue, unless one can get it done on the spot or for many blades at once, the time and petrol of the double trip would cost more than the difference with buying a new blade.

bellyup
14th October 2009, 06:18 PM
I'm with TITT on this. Henry Bros in Syd. supply a 1.3tpi x25mm bi-metal blade for about $75 (expensive but good) - these things slide through Gidgee, Belah, burls and all the other tough stuff like a hot knife through butter and after 1 year of faithfull service on the Sheppach 15", the blade broke - I feel I had good value.This was my first bandsaw so every mistake you could make I made!!
I have tried other blades around 6tpi for dessert timber but they tend to "choke" trying to dump the dust with the end result they overheat and burn the timber and ultimately melt the blade tips.
I dont think that Henry Bros have the skip tooth blade that mentioned but I'll give it a go.
Bruce.

Sawdust Maker
14th October 2009, 09:24 PM
Henry Bros give good service and will also post anywhere

And I'm jealous of all you blokes who have bigger saws then my little 14"

Ozkaban
15th October 2009, 08:53 AM
I'm with TITT on this. Henry Bros in Syd. supply a 1.3tpi x25mm bi-metal blade for about $75 (expensive but good) - these things slide through Gidgee, Belah, burls and all the other tough stuff like a hot knife through butter and after 1 year of faithfull service on the Sheppach 15", the blade broke - I feel I had good value.This was my first bandsaw so every mistake you could make I made!!
I have tried other blades around 6tpi for dessert timber but they tend to "choke" trying to dump the dust with the end result they overheat and burn the timber and ultimately melt the blade tips.
I dont think that Henry Bros have the skip tooth blade that mentioned but I'll give it a go.
Bruce.


Henry Bros give good service and will also post anywhere

And I'm jealous of all you blokes who have bigger saws then my little 14"

I was trying to remember the name - Henry Bros. I remember reading it before on these hallowed forums as being a good supplier in Sydney. I'll have to give them a try, though I am like Sawdust Maker - only a little 14" to play with. Still, it gives you an excuse to fire up the chainsaw for bigger stuff :D

Cheers,
Dave

NeilS
15th October 2009, 09:56 AM
NeilS: Have you tried Central Saws at Edwardstown?


Yes, Frank. have bought firewood saws from them. They know their stuff.

Don't forget Leuco, which is nearer to you. They also have saw doctors who can make up most BS blade profiles for you. I think they use Starrett stock.

Thinner blades are OK for straight-ish cuts, but the thinner kerf doesn' t work so well on smaller diameter blanks with 3/8" blade. A narrower blade in the thin profile would cope with smaller diameter blanks but would be more prone to breaking, as are thinner blades in general.

.....

bellyup
15th October 2009, 10:25 AM
Just a quick note about 1" blades - you need to make sure that the wheels inside your bandsaw are able to take a 1" blade. I know a lot of the 14" machines can't and the smaller diameter the wheel, the more fatigue the blade suffers (as it's required to bend in a tighter radius)
Bruce.

NeilS
15th October 2009, 10:48 AM
.... bi-metal blade for about $75 (expensive but good) .... the blade broke - I feel I had good value.



Bruce - if it was just a break (and not bent) it is probably worth having your bi-metal blade re-welded (or brazed). Especially if it was still cutting OK when it broke. There will be threads on the forum, or elsewhere, on how to do that yourself. If you don't think you can/would like to do it yourself then it may still be economical to send back to supplier for re-welding, given replacement cost of $75.

And, if you have already replaced the broken blade, having the old blade repaired will give you a spare if, and when, the new one breaks....:U

.....

bellyup
15th October 2009, 11:09 AM
G'day Neil,
This blade was ready for retirement.....poor tortured thing, a few kinks, the odd tooth missing and the set of the teeth was starting to close ( could be describing myself here :D). The break was more like a tear. I reckon I hit a rifle bullet in a piece of redgum. I know Iv'e turned through a .22 bullet in some burl once... didn't realise what it was till later.
Bruce.

Frank&Earnest
15th October 2009, 11:56 AM
G'day Neil,
This blade was ready for retirement.....poor tortured thing, a few kinks, the odd tooth missing and the set of the teeth was starting to close ( could be describing myself here :D). The break was more like a tear. I reckon I hit a rifle bullet in a piece of redgum. I know Iv'e turned through a .22 bullet in some burl once... didn't realise what it was till later.
Bruce.

... so what? The standard .22 bullet would be softer than Gidgee...:D

Frank&Earnest
15th October 2009, 12:20 PM
Yes, Frank. have bought firewood saws from them. They know their stuff.

Don't forget Leuco, which is nearer to you. They also have saw doctors who can make up most BS blade profiles for you. I think they use Starrett stock.

Thinner blades are OK for straight-ish cuts, but the thinner kerf doesn' t work so well on smaller diameter blanks with 3/8" blade. A narrower blade in the thin profile would cope with smaller diameter blanks but would be more prone to breaking, as are thinner blades in general.

.....

Thanks Neil. Leuco is where I got my 1/2" from (and all the inserts). I can't remember, but I think they did not have 1/8" blades. I was told that even the standard thickness is a bit too much for the 9" wheels of the Ryobi and a guy I have heard at the club, who uses thin blades for cutting pieces for segmented turning, is philosophical about breakages: he makes six at a time and rebrazes 5 when he is down to the last one. Have you done any brazing yourself? I am toying with the idea of buying the Carbatec brazing kit, but I would be learning from scratch.

All in all, for accurate segments I would think that the 1/2" 6tpi on the Leda would give straighter and less rough cuts, ( I have no problems with 1mm veneers) but haven't tried yet and don't know any better.

TTIT
15th October 2009, 06:17 PM
Bruce - if it was just a break (and not bent) it is probably worth having your bi-metal blade re-welded (or brazed). Especially if it was still cutting OK when it broke. There will be threads on the forum, or elsewhere, on how to do that yourself. If you don't think you can/would like to do it yourself then it may still be economical to send back to supplier for re-welding, given replacement cost of $75.

And, if you have already replaced the broken blade, having the old blade repaired will give you a spare if, and when, the new one breaks....:U

.....I've only worn out 2 of these blades so far and in both instances it was just pure metal fatigue. After 7 or 8 re-sharpenings and a mountain of timber diced and sliced, I think I would only be chasing one crack after another by trying to repair them. Reckon I've well and truly got my money's worth out of them anyway - - especially when you consider that before I started using these blades, I went through 8 normal blades of various toothing in about 3 months - roughly the same cost as the 2 bi-metal blades that have kept me cutting for about 3 years.:2tsup:

NeilS
15th October 2009, 08:37 PM
Have you done any brazing yourself? I am toying with the idea of buying the Carbatec brazing kit, but I would be learning from scratch.



I'm a dummy when it comes to any form of metal work. Soft solder is about my limit....:-

.....

NeilS
15th October 2009, 08:48 PM
I've only worn out 2 of these blades so far and in both instances it was just pure metal fatigue. After 7 or 8 re-sharpenings and a mountain of timber diced and sliced, I think I would only be chasing one crack after another by trying to repair them. Reckon I've well and truly got my money's worth out of them anyway - - especially when you consider that before I started using these blades, I went through 8 normal blades of various toothing in about 3 months - roughly the same cost as the 2 bi-metal blades that have kept me cutting for about 3 years.:2tsup:

Interesting, Vern. I take it that you are doing your own sharpening of your bi-metal blades?

.....

TTIT
15th October 2009, 10:21 PM
Interesting, Vern. I take it that you are doing your own sharpening of your bi-metal blades?

.....Yep! Talked about it back in this thread. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/wendys-bull-oak-68825/#post703912) Got it down to a fine art now . . . . . . . . . . OK then, a well practised ability :;:U

NeilS
16th October 2009, 11:34 AM
Yep! Talked about it back in this thread. (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/wendys-bull-oak-68825/#post703912) Got it down to a fine art now . . . . . . . . . . OK then, a well practised ability :;:U

Thanks for that, Vern.

Used to use a similar technique (with diamond bit) on standard blades until they became so cheap that it wasn't worth the time/effort, besides the fact that the tip hardening is so shallow on standard blades that the cutting temper was soon removed.

Went through the normal dramas of putting too much hook on the teeth until I made a simple jig, which helped but slowed down the process.

Have been thinking about going over to bi-metal blades, in which case it will be worth going back to re-sharpening again.

.....

rsser
22nd October 2009, 06:51 AM
Yes, I'm a bimetal fan too.

FWIW I've heard blokes who do flatware as well as round say you shouldn't use your circle cutting blade for accurate straight cutting as it takes a set.

Frank&Earnest
22nd October 2009, 01:53 PM
Yes, I'm a bimetal fan too.

FWIW I've heard blokes who do flatware as well as round say you shouldn't use your circle cutting blade for accurate straight cutting as it takes a set.

Aha! I had a suspicion that that had happened to me after quite a bit of hard pushing, Makes sense that putting more pressure on one side will result in uneven wearing. Thanks for confirming.