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GoGuppy
14th December 2009, 08:20 PM
G'day all
I have ordered a CMG SpeedMaster variable speed drive (VSD) for my lathe. This is basically a three phase motor with clever electronics that enables the frequency to be varied and connection to a standard 240V power outlet. I'm getting a 1hp (.75kW) drive and it's a straight swap over with the existing 240V motor, ie same foot mount dimensions, same shaft diameter; just a swap over of the drive pulley.:D

Combined with the original 5 speed pulley setup, I should have a speed range of something like 100rpm to about 3600rpm.

A good feature of the drive is that it comes as standard with a flat (constant) torque characteristic, which means plenty of umpph at low speeds.:2tsup:. Especially on the low speed pulley...:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:. The speed control is by means of a small knob on the terminal box.

I received a reversing switch with the lathe when I bought it, but never used it. This is now of course the perfect opportunity to use it and I'll get a safety switch as well to complete the electrical side of things.

I reckon the above all sounds pretty good, but.....has anybody else installed one and if so, are there any potential problems that I should be aware of??:?. One that I am aware of is that the drive won't be available from the factory until mid to end Jan 2010.:C.

Look forward to any feedback on the drive and thanks for reading the post.
Cheers

Greolt
14th December 2009, 08:42 PM
Do you mind if I ask how much they cost?

And also the 1.5hp if you know.

Thanks, Greg

RETIRED
14th December 2009, 08:51 PM
I don't think you can use the reverse switch.

Jim Carroll will enlighten you.:D

Jim Carroll
14th December 2009, 09:00 PM
CMG have tried to develop the motor with a reversing switch and keep coming up against glitches in the sysytem and the main one beign the human factor.

The motor is like a tv , you turn it on at the main power point and all the electronics warm up then you only turn it on and of at the switch on the pendant, under no circumstances do you turn it on and of at the power point as the electronics do not like this.

You only turn it of at the end of the day.

Like all electronics you do need surge protection.

For woodturning there is no need to go any bigger than the 1hp as you have your pulleys to give you more torque. The standard motor has a B56 frame and a 5/8" shaft to go bigger means going metric and a bigger shaft so incurring more expense.

nalmo
14th December 2009, 09:09 PM
I remember reading somewhere that you need to make sure the 3 phase motor is designed to be run at slow speed. Some motors rely on the speed of the motor to supply the correct airflow to keep the motor cool. Even though the VFD will run the motor slowly, it is still drawing current and hence heating up. Without the correct airflow, you would soon burn out a motor which is not designed to run at slow speed.

GoGuppy
14th December 2009, 09:39 PM
CMG have tried to develop the motor with a reversing switch and keep coming up against glitches in the sysytem and the main one beign the human factor.

Jim, I have received the wiring diagram for the factory fitted reversing switch from the NSW distributor and it looks easy enough to fit an external switch.

The motor is like a tv , you turn it on at the main power point and all the electronics warm up then you only turn it on and of at the switch on the pendant, under no circumstances do you turn it on and of at the power point as the electronics do not like this. You only turn it of at the end of the day.

I understand that the electronic components stay "live" for about ten minutes after the drive is switched off.

Like all electronics you do need surge protection.

Thanks for the tip

For woodturning there is no need to go any bigger than the 1hp as you have your pulleys to give you more torque. The standard motor has a B56 frame and a 5/8" shaft to go bigger means going metric and a bigger shaft so incurring more expense.

Nalmo, fair comment, but I think with the limited amount of turning I do (ie hobbyist :wink: ) this should not be a problem. I will check with the distributor how long the drive can run at minimum speed, just in case.:C.
Cheers

GoGuppy
14th December 2009, 09:44 PM
Do you mind if I ask how much they cost?

And also the 1.5hp if you know.

Thanks, Greg

Hi greolt,
About $850.

I do not know the price of the 1.5hp as I was not interested, because it would not be a straight swap-over as the motor frame size and shaft diameter are larger, resulting in extra costs and difficulty.:no::no:

Cheers

Big Shed
14th December 2009, 09:46 PM
GoGuppy, what lathe are you putting this on?

GoGuppy
14th December 2009, 09:53 PM
Hi Fred

It's going onto a Leady lathe.
Cheers

Greolt
14th December 2009, 10:02 PM
Hi greolt,
About $850.
Thanks GoGuppy

Greg

Big Shed
14th December 2009, 10:07 PM
Hi Fred

It's going onto a Leady lathe.
Cheers


Thanks, that's a nice lathe:2tsup:

Texian
15th December 2009, 03:11 AM
Assuming the CMG VSD and motor are similar to the those on a Jet 1642, some ref. info. follows. The motors (1.5 and 2 hp.) on the Jet and PM 3520B are TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) and do get warm at low motor speeds, as mentioned above. The factory programs the minimum spindle speed at 50 rpm (on lower of two belt positions) to maintain sufficient motor rpm and fan speed to prevent motor overheating. After about 30 minutes at 50 rpm the outside of the motor feels like about 125-130F. Note that there is a <st1>LOT</st1> of variation in how the VSD can be programmed, and the actual spindle and motor rpm also depends upon your pulley sizes.<o></o><o></o>
<o></o>
Some people unplug their VSD lathes or turn off the circuit breaker (in wall panel) at the end of every day. Others (self included) leave power to the lathe full time, except when bad weather with lightning is expected. The switch on the control panel is always turned off, of course, when finished turning, and is a good idea to turn the speed knob to zero or low speed. Probably y’all already know all this, but maybe helpful to someone.

artme
15th December 2009, 04:40 AM
Good info Texian and Jim.

I spent some time looking at the changeover to VSD for my TL1200. The information I obtained from various sources aligns with that given here.

There is no really cheap or easy way to do this. You have to get the right gear. If my memory serves me correctly Jim has the motor plus VSD control for well under 1K.

A separate VSD can cost more than $500. Why would you bother with separate components at that rate>

GoGuppy
15th December 2009, 08:02 AM
Good info Texian and Jim.

I spent some time looking at the changeover to VSD for my TL1200. The information I obtained from various sources aligns with that given here.

There is no really cheap or easy way to do this. You have to get the right gear. If my memory serves me correctly Jim has the motor plus VSD control for well under 1K.

A separate VSD can cost more than $500. Why would you bother with separate components at that rate>

Hi artme, you are right, there is no cheap way of doing this. I got the following quotation back in June before I decided to go with the CMG:

1 x AC motor D80 0.75kW 4pole B3 foot mounted 3 phase WEG @ $206 + GST.

ADD:
EITHER: 1 x AC Variable speed drive Eurotherm model 650 240V 1phase 240V input 3 phase output @ $523 + GST, (note this model is variable speed only and will not give torque at bottom end of speed range),

OR: 1 x AC Variable speed drive Eurotherm model 650V 240V 1phase 240V input 3 phase output @ $631 + GST (this model is a sensorless vector unit and will give full torque through most of the speed range).

Above prices are net and exclude GST.

If you are willing to fiddle around with the electrics and slightly different motor (frame)
size, the second option may be suitable as well.
Cheers

Jim Carroll
15th December 2009, 08:13 AM
The speed of the CMG motor ranges between 500rpm and 1700 rpm.

This was done so the external fan could still keep the motor at the proper working temperature , if you find you are working at the lower end of the speed for a long period then it is better to go a step lower in your pulley set up and let the fan work a bit harder and keep the motor running more efficiently.

There is no loss of torque at the slow speed unlike the others which can be stalled at the lower end.

Greolt
15th December 2009, 08:13 AM
No doubt the CMG motor/drive combination is more efficient and I think would run at lower RPMs.

However I would expect that anyone who took the time to look would find a second hand 1hp 3 phase motor for under $100 and a VFD is not that expensive.

This Hitachi for example at $159USD, http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drives/AC+Drives/Phase+Converter+VFD/X200-007NFU1.html

I make no pretence that this would perform as well as the CMG but I believe it will do a pretty fair job for the money.

Personally I would go for a 1.5 to 2hp combination to retain performance. Only $50 more.

Greg

GoGuppy
15th December 2009, 08:18 AM
The speed of the CMG motor ranges between 500rpm and 1700 rpm.

This was done so the external fan could still keep the motor at the proper working temperature , if you find you are working at the lower end of the speed for a long period then it is better to go a step lower in your pulley set up and let the fan work a bit harder and keep the motor running more efficiently.

There is no loss of torque at the slow speed unlike the others which can be stalled at the lower end.

That sounds right, I calculated about a minimum speed of 120rpm at the headstock spindle based on the pully ratio with the existing constant speed drive.
Cheers

Big Shed
15th December 2009, 08:20 AM
No doubt the CMG motor/drive combination is more efficient and I think would run at lower RPMs.

However I would expect that anyone who took the time to look would find a second hand 1hp 3 phase motor for under $100 and a VFD is not that expensive.

This Hitachi for example at $159USD, http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drives/AC+Drives/Phase+Converter+VFD/X200-007NFU1.html

I make no pretence that this would perform as well as the CMG but I believe it will do a pretty fair job for the money.

Personally I would go for a 1.5 to 2hp combination to retain performance. Only $50 more.

Greg


There are a lot of secondhand 3phase motors around and they can be picked for failry low prices.

I just scored a 1hp motor and VFD, as well as a complete DRO system with remote read-out for my 9x20 metal lathe for just over $200 on Epay.

As my 9x20 metal lathe is already EVS I will be using the motor/VFD for my wood lathe, when I finally find one that I like that is. These Tough lathes sound interesting.

Jim Carroll
15th December 2009, 08:23 AM
No doubt the CMG motor/drive combination is more efficient and I think would run at lower RPMs.

However I would expect that anyone who took the time to look would find a second hand 1hp 3 phase motor for under $100 and a VFD is not that expensive.

This Hitachi for example at $159USD, http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drives/AC+Drives/Phase+Converter+VFD/X200-007NFU1.html

I make no pretence that this would perform as well as the CMG but I believe it will do a pretty fair job for the money.

Personally I would go for a 1.5 to 2hp combination to retain performance. Only $50 more.

Greg

Greg one of the biggest problems with these set ups is overheating of the motor and inverters as you quite often see guys with fans under their lathes trying to keep everthing cool.

The motors are not designed to run at low speeds for too long as the fan is not efficient enough.

Greolt
15th December 2009, 08:31 AM
Hence one of the reasons I would go for the slightly bigger hp.

No lees than 50% rated RPMs and the non professional use of my lathe. I see no problems.

If I was a production turner I would be on a professional grade lathe. :)

Greg

EDIT: And for about $30 you can fit a thermistor that will signal the VFD and it will fault out over a set temperature.

hughie
15th December 2009, 10:45 AM
The motors are not designed to run at low speeds for too long as the fan is not efficient enough.
[/QUOTE]

One of the effective and simple ways to over come this is to remove the existing motor fan. Then purchase a 240v cabinet fan and fit it onto the existing cowl of the motor. Hook it up to the start/stop circuit on your lathe and then you will have a constant speed fan with plenty of air flow over the motor.

The link has some good examples of fans although RS is a bit pricey

Enclosures and Fans (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSuperSection&N=4294864255)

GoGuppy
15th December 2009, 12:59 PM
One of the effective and simple ways to over come this is to remove the existing motor fan. Then purchase a 240v cabinet fan and fit it onto the existing cowl of the motor. Hook it up to the start/stop circuit on your lathe and then you will have a constant speed fan with plenty of air flow over the motor. The link has some good examples of fans although RS is a bit pricey Enclosures and Fans (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSuperSection&N=4294864255)

Hi hughie,
while I agree that in principle this could work, :shrug:, it is more likely that you'd (well, more likely, I would :-) end up with a heath-robinson result, wires all over the place, potentially dangerous electric cabling rubbing vibrating machinery parts and dust blowing everywhere.:doh:....:no:.

Greolt
17th December 2009, 10:17 AM
Further to this,

I decided to go ahead and fit a three phase motor and VFD to my lathe. Ordered an Hitachi VFD. Went for a 2hp and cost me $250US inc freight.

Spoke with the local electric motor re-winder who has always been helpful and he said the idea was good and it would work no worries for this application

For the majority of three phase motors it is just a matter of wiring then delta.

Although he did not have a suitable motor I could have right now, he said "expect to pay ten dollars a horsepower for second hand three phase motors"

Greg

hughie
17th December 2009, 11:11 AM
while I agree that in principle this could work, :shrug:, it is more likely that you'd (well, more likely, I would :-) end up with a heath-robinson result, wires all over the place, potentially dangerous electric cabling rubbing vibrating machinery parts and dust blowing everywhere.
I have done it several times on slow rev motors that have had the need to be running very slow for hours at a time, no problems at all. What you do is to run your cable along with the motor cabling right back to your switch or box . There is no more dust coming out than it would normally with the motor fan.

It does give you a wider choice of application, as sometimes you cant get the mechanical reduction along with adequate cooling.

Dunno how cheap this would be current exchange rate is around $179.pp plus shipping and handling. But A quick email would sort out most of this I guess, on the face of it, it looks good.
This Hitachi for example at $159USD, http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drive...0-007NFU1.html (http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drives/AC+Drives/Phase+Converter+VFD/X200-007NFU1.html)

GoGuppy
17th December 2009, 06:25 PM
Hi hughie & greolt
That's sure a way of saving heaps of $$! I guess I'm a lazy ol' buzzard and the idea of hooking it all up electrically and then making the three phase motor fit, scares me off a bit (a lot actually). But if you have access to a mechanical workshop or have done similar work in the past, then I'd say give it a go.:D
Don't forget to post the photos and tell us about it how it performs and what (if anything) you needed to do to make it fit and work. Then we can all learn from it.:2tsup:

texx
17th December 2009, 08:32 PM
after reading all this :o:o:o
things with wires in em give me the siths
i rekon a 5 hp honda would be the go they have a throttle built in and i dont have power at home. better still 3hp lister diesel may even look into that

NeilS
18th December 2009, 09:51 AM
i rekon a 5 hp honda would be the go they have a throttle built in and i dont have power at home. better still 3hp lister diesel may even look into that

Now that's a new idea! Maybe and overhead shaft like this (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_shaft)....:U

.....

RETIRED
18th December 2009, 10:24 AM
Nothing like the sound of line shafts working.:D

Greolt
18th December 2009, 11:07 AM
Don't forget to post the photos and tell us about it how it performs and what (if anything) you needed to do to make it fit and work. Then we can all learn from it.:2tsup:
I will do that. However it may take me a while to find a second hand motor exactly like I want. Four pole, flange mount.

No urgency for me so I will look until I find just what I want. Unfortunately the local second hand dealer that had lots of motors, has shut up shop. :(

Greg

NeilS
18th December 2009, 03:10 PM
Nothing like the sound of line shafts working.:D

... or the sound of silence after an eight hour shift. :U

.....

GoGuppy
18th December 2009, 06:28 PM
I will do that. However it may take me a while to find a second hand motor exactly like I want. Four pole, flange mount.

No probs, look forward to hearing how you go!:2tsup:

No urgency for me so I will look until I find just what I want. Unfortunately the local second hand dealer that had lots of motors, has shut up shop. :( Greg

Isn't that always the way it is..:doh:

Cheers

Greolt
1st January 2010, 11:37 AM
I called by the second hand dealer the other day and happened to find him there. :)

I was lucky enough to get exactly what I wanted. 2hp, 4 pole, flange/foot mount.

Bench test. Hooked it up to the Hitachi VFD, set up a few parameters and it goes like a charm.

Cost me $50 and with the VFD, I have $300 all up cost so far.

I will make up a control box with forward and reverse switches and speed control pot (dial). That might cost me $40 - $50.

Greg

Big Shed
1st January 2010, 11:51 AM
Looks good, should make a nice (and economical) setup:2tsup:

GoGuppy
1st January 2010, 05:06 PM
Good one Greg, you did well..:2tsup:.

Look forward to hear how it all works together when completed.:D.

rodent
1st January 2010, 06:26 PM
I don't know if any ones said this but make sure the chuck has a locking screw . Catching a bit of wood is one thing but the chuck flying around the room is a bit of a worry . Hi oh chuck away . and thar she goes .PS reverse is un- doing the chuck .

GoGuppy
2nd January 2010, 10:00 AM
I don't know if any ones said this but make sure the chuck has a locking screw . Catching a bit of wood is one thing but the chuck flying around the room is a bit of a worry . Hi oh chuck away . and thar she goes .PS reverse is un- doing the chuck .

Good point to bear in mind, rodent!
I can't speak for others, but my intent is to use the reversing mode for slow speed, light handed sanding options. I think this should be OK, but just in case, where would I get a locking screw for my lathe (M30x3.5 thread)?
Cheers

Tim the Timber Turner
2nd January 2010, 08:45 PM
I once had a Hitachi drive in one of Vermec's modified Vicmarc's.

It kept chucking out the earth leakage.

After much chasing after Hitachi, their solution was to disconnect the filter (HF I think) in the unit. It fixed the earth leakage drop out, but created static on my workshop radio and next door.

Product support from Hitachi was nearly zero. The best they could come up with was "these units are not designed for domestic situations".

After 12 months Enzo replaced the Hitachi at no charge (I paid the freight one way) with a Weg drive. It was good service from Enzo.

I was not overly impressed with the Weg unit, it didn't seem to have much torque and after a while I sold it and put in a Fuji drive.

Should have started with a Fuji in the first place:2tsup:

I guess like most things in life you gets what you pay for.

Reminds me of the saying about Photographic Tripods.

Lightweight, stable, cheap. Pick any two.

Cheers

Tim:U

Greolt
2nd January 2010, 08:59 PM
I guess every ones mileage can vary.

My experience with three Hitachi drives so far, has been perfect. Not a single problem that did not come about by me not reading the manual. :)

As far as torque is concerned, there are a lot of settings that need to be tuned to the motor. If this is not done correctly then performance will suffer.

The Hitachi manuals are very comprehensive.

Greg

Tim the Timber Turner
2nd January 2010, 09:29 PM
Hi Greg

I had no problem with the torque or power performance of the Hitachi.

The bottom line was that over a period of 12 months neither Enzo or myself could get a solution from Hitachi. Enzo was as off as I was, and he ended up changing suppliers.

As I said, Hitachi product support was next to zero.

Cheers

Tim:)

Greolt
2nd January 2010, 10:13 PM
Yeah as I said mileage can vary.

I will keep on buying Hitachi as I have never had a problem.

Variable speed on my drill press will be next. :)

Greg

Tim the Timber Turner
2nd January 2010, 10:35 PM
Variable speed on my drill press will be next. :)

Greg[/QUOTE]

Great idea!

Changing belt speed on a drill press is worse than changing belt speed on a lathe.

Ideally I guess you would need one with a digital readout so you didn't cook larger size Sawtooth bits.

I lust after the large Jet variable speed drill press, not electronic, but has many great features.

However 1.5 G is out of my price range.

Cheers

Tim:)

Texian
3rd January 2010, 01:54 AM
It kept chucking out the earth leakage.

Don't tell me. Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI or GFCI)

Many folks with new 1.5 hp, 110V Jet 1642 lathes reported that the lathe EVS (variable speed thingy) would trip the GFI (chuck out the earth leakage), and they had to use a circuit without a GFI to run the lathe. Someone posted a very technical explanation (year or two ago) but I don't recall the details. Something about about high voltage or high frequency transients generated by the EVS.

Big Shed
3rd January 2010, 08:44 AM
Don't tell me. Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI or GFCI)

Many folks with new 1.5 hp, 110V Jet 1642 lathes reported that the lathe EVS (variable speed thingy) would trip the GFI (chuck out the earth leakage), and they had to use a circuit without a GFI to run the lathe. Someone posted a very technical explanation (year or two ago) but I don't recall the details. Something about about high voltage or high frequency transients generated by the EVS.

That would make it impossible to use in my place, or any other place built in the last 15-20 years in Australia.

All houses built in that time have a safety switch on each power and light circuit, in my case 5 on the main (shed) switchboard and 5 on the sub (house) swicthboard. The reason that the shed has the main switchboard is that we lived in there while we were building the house 10 years ago.

oldiephred
3rd January 2010, 09:23 AM
It has been said that there is no such thing as a stupid question but this one might get quite close.
When you are talking about a reversible drive--- is your lathe reversible:?

GoGuppy
3rd January 2010, 10:53 AM
It has been said that there is no such thing as a stupid question but this one might get quite close.
When you are talking about a reversible drive--- is your lathe reversible:?
Hi oldiephred
No worries, the direction of rotation (clockwise or anti clockwise) of most electric motors can be reversed by changing the electrical wiring arrangement. With 3 phase motors this is easily achieved by changing over two of three phase connections.
On a single phase motor the name plate will often indicate how to change the wiring to change the direction of rotation.
But, as indicated by rodent above, when reversing the rotation on a lathe, it could cause the chuck to unwind unexpectedly...:o.
Cheers

Cliff Rogers
3rd January 2010, 11:05 AM
I got a WEG CFW08 drive & a WEG 2.2Kw (3HP) 6 pole, 3 Φ motor for just a bit under $1100.

The 6 pole will give me more torque that the 4 pole.

Marlin Coast Motor Rewinding will help with the programming & I can do the wiring myself.

I'll post some pics when I have something to show off 'cos at this stage, it is still sitting in a carton. :-

Weg Australia (http://www.weg.com.au/)

GoGuppy
3rd January 2010, 01:07 PM
Hi Cliff
Nice kit you've got there, should be able to do some serious turning now...:2tsup:.
I had a quick look at the VSD specs on the WEG website, do you have the dynamic or DC motor braking option available on the drive? Could be useful when coupled with an emergency stop. :D
Cheers

Cliff Rogers
3rd January 2010, 01:43 PM
Yup, the ramp up & ramp down speed/time can be programmed into it.

I am going to put mine on my big home made pedestal lathe.... see this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/i-want-evs-motor-2-3-hp-controller-79199/).

Cliff Rogers
3rd January 2010, 01:48 PM
Note. You have to be careful with the ramp down time, if you set it too quick & you have a heavy piece on the lathe, the spindle will stop so quickly that the chuck can unscrew if it doesn't have some way of locking on.

Greolt
3rd January 2010, 03:22 PM
Marlin Coast Motor Rewinding will help with the programming & I can do the wiring myself.

Cliff if the Weg manual is as good as the Hitachi then I think you will have no difficulty programming it yourself.

If you know enough to wire it up, then programming should be no obstacle.

Greg

oldiephred
4th January 2010, 01:44 AM
One of the things that needs to be investigated with the single phase to three phase units is the loss of available horsepower. Very often with this type of conversion the HP can be limited to around 87% on nameplate rating.

GoGuppy
10th February 2010, 07:37 PM
I got a WEG CFW08 drive & a WEG 2.2Kw (3HP) 6 pole, 3 Φ motor for just a bit under $1100.

The 6 pole will give me more torque that the 4 pole.

Marlin Coast Motor Rewinding will help with the programming & I can do the wiring myself.

I'll post some pics when I have something to show off 'cos at this stage, it is still sitting in a carton. :-

Weg Australia (http://www.weg.com.au/)

Hi Cliff

How is your set up going? Anything to show us or comments on how it goes? :)

Cheers

Cliff Rogers
10th February 2010, 10:56 PM
Nup, sorry, Shed still doesn't have power on yet. :-

GoGuppy
11th February 2010, 09:05 AM
Thanks Cliff, slightly frustrating, I would imagine..:(.

I am getting slightly P'd off for a number of reasons about the Speedmaster variable speed drive I have on order and am now considering chaning to a Eurotherm model 650V which is a sensorless vector unit and gives better low speed torque and speed control, see Eurotherm 650 AC VSD (http://www.eurotherm.com.au/drives/product/650.htm)
Cheers

woodcutta
11th February 2010, 06:57 PM
Here is an option I am investigating - no need to change the motor

Anacon Systems, Inc.- OPTIDRIVE E2 for Single-Phase AC motors. (http://www.anaconsystems.com/text/opti_e2.html)

Regards
woodcutta

GoGuppy
11th February 2010, 07:52 PM
Hi Woodcutter, that's an interesting alternative, I wonder how long they've been around and what people's experience is with them....:?.
From reading the manual on the website, it appears that when starting, the drive needs to speed up the motor to maximum speed briefly (presumably to produce a credible level of starting torque) and then ramps down to the selected speed. This could be scary when a large unbalanced blank is in the chuck.:oo:.

woodcutta
12th February 2010, 11:27 PM
GG

Parameter 33 adjusts the set time for the boost. this can be set to 0.0 to disable it.

ABB also make a single phase vsd. I have a mate that works for the drive section and he is looking for a "trial" drive for me to test.

woodcutta