Mc-1100 problems

[leighd]

Ive had a couple of problems with my MC-1100 so far. Sometimes when i am rouging wood if there is alot of vibrations it can losen the nut holding the headstock ond it can come lose and start wobbling everywhere. This also happens a little on the tailstock but not as much as the headstock.

Also when i use the extra part of the toolrest and have the headstock outboard it flexes a bit and i dont get good cuts and cant take heavy cuts.

The only other problem that i have had is not the lathes fault but when using the drive centre it sometimes doesnt go deepenough into the wood some it can slip. Is it ok to punck it first with a hammer before i put the drive center in the lathe?

[Don Nethercott]

Leighd,
Can't help with the lathe but re the drive centre, I was taught to make two small cuts at right angles to each other through the centre. The bandsaw is good for this. The centre of the drive fits in the centre of the cross, while the four blades of the drive fit into the cuts.
Hope this works for you,
Don

[smidsy]

Hei Leigh,
With the head stock nut, vibration will losen any nut - you can put a second nut on to act as a lock nut. Another option is to use a saw on your blanks and get them more round to minimise vibration. On the tail stock, if you turn the nut underneath about quater or half a turn when it is loose this will tighten up the locking lever.
When you say "Also when i use the extra part of the toolrest and have the headstock outboard it flexes a bit and i dont get good cuts and cant take heavy cuts." do you mean the head stock is flexing or the tool rest?
That tool rest is the same as the MC900 (which I have) and it's cast iron so there should be no flex. If you mean the head stock is flexing, this would be related to the nut under the head stock coming loose.

Something for you to check, on the MC900 the headstock swivel is secured by a long bolt which has on each end a claw shaped grip that locks in to the bed. These claws are secured to the head by spring pins, on my lathe one of these pins was missing and this allowed the head stock to flex - I don't know if the 1100 has the same system but check if it does and check the pins.

As for the the drive centre, when I was in school we were taught to make two cuts in the wood with a chisel for the drive to bed in. Carbatec actually sell a drive punch that you use with a hammer to put an impression in the timber - it's $55 though which I'm not sure is worth it.

Cheers
Paul

[Sprog]

Ive had a couple of problems with my MC-1100 so far. Sometimes when i am rouging wood if there is alot of vibrations it can losen the nut holding the headstock ond it can come lose and start wobbling everywhere. This also happens a little on the tailstock but not as much as the headstock.

Also when i use the extra part of the toolrest and have the headstock outboard it flexes a bit and i dont get good cuts and cant take heavy cuts.

The only other problem that i have had is not the lathes fault but when using the drive centre it sometimes doesnt go deep enough into the wood some it can slip. Is it ok to punck it first with a hammer before i put the drive center in the lathe?

Contact your supplier about the headstock coming loose, it shouldn't happen.

There is a lot of un-supported overhang when the tool rest is fully extended, take light cuts with very sharp chisels.

It is OK to give the drive centre a couple of wacks with a hammer but don’t overdo it, use a little restraint :D

[Red neck]

It is OK to give the drive centre a couple of wacks with a hammer but don’t overdo it, use a little restraint

Better to use a wodden mallet or solid lump of hardwood - don't want to damage the morse taper on the end of the drive! :eek:

Regards