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flutetears
2nd Jan 2010, 05:28 AM
Well this is my first attempt at making a lid for a bowl.
As simple as it looks it was a challenge to make.
I used a flat piece of stock drilled a hole in the center then shaped the bottom to fit inside the bowl. Now I would like to do a more rounded top not using such a large hole in the center. I have looked for info on making lids and not found much. Maybe not the right keywords in the search. So what holding methodís should I be looking at?
I was thinking that I would need a thicker stock then I used on this so that I could do a tendon and hold it in a chuck just like a bowl. But I would like to use some of my flat ĺ in stock that I have in the shop. I considered a face plate but I donít want to have the screw holes to deal with. I could glue a piece of wood and use the face plate but wonder if I could avoid that.
Ideas?
Brad

orificiam
2nd Jan 2010, 08:29 AM
Hi Brad you could use double sided tape with the face plate or Hot melt Glue.
Nice lid and bowl by the way.
Cheers Tony.:)

flutetears
2nd Jan 2010, 09:56 AM
Hi Brad you could use double sided tape with the face plate or Hot melt Glue.
Nice lid and bowl by the way.
Cheers Tony.:)

Thanks
I have thought of the double sided tape will it hold?
hmmm never thought of the Hot melt glue now I have some of that wonder how well that would hold. I have 3in face plates may be time to make a larger version.
Just what I need another project for me LOL:wink:

Manuka Jock
2nd Jan 2010, 10:06 AM
Thanks
I have thought of the double sided tape will it hold?
hmmm never thought of the Hot melt glue now I have some of that wonder how well that would hold. I have 3in face plates may be time to make a larger version.
Just what I need another project for me LOL:wink:
Brad , a 3'' faceplate , with a 3" glue block screwed to it , will be fine
unless your lid is a yard or so across :D.
Use the best quality glue tho , with the highest melt temperature gun .
There are hot glue guns , and then there are hot glue guns :rolleyes:

flutetears
2nd Jan 2010, 10:18 AM
Brad , a 3'' faceplate , with a 3" glue block screwed to it , will be fine
unless your lid is a yard or so across :D.
Use the best quality glue tho , with the highest melt temperature gun .
There are hot glue guns , and then there are hot glue guns :rolleyes:
Ah so the old cheap glue gun I have would not do the job. Now anyone got a proven setup that they could share some info on?
Thanks

bellyup
2nd Jan 2010, 10:37 AM
G'day flutetears,
Nice cookie barrel. The first time is always the hardest - that's when we learn what NOT to do next time.
As Orificiam says, hot melt glue guns are very effective a holding, there is only one trick to using them and that is to make sure the gun and glue are at full temperature before you apply glue to the surfaces - if you try to hurry, before they are really hot, you will find the holding power is greatly reduced. The other way is to make a "jam
chuck" ie screw a sacrificial piece of timber( mdf/pine or the like) that is larger than the lid you have rough turned, to your face plate. Using vernier calipers ( or a ruler if your good) measure and scribe the diameter of your lid on the sacrifical wood then turn the wood inside the scribe line away to a depth of say 5 - 10 mm (1/4 - 1/2") deep. You should then be able to "jam" your lid inside the newly turned hole on your sacrifical piece - a friction fit - then you can work on the face. Oh, drill a 1/2" hole all the way through in the centre of the sacrificial timber first so when you unscrew the faceplate you can knock through the 1/2" hole to release your captive lid.
Cindy Droza has some good DVD's on turning lidded boxes and you could do a lot worse than check one out - she goes through all of this stuff very well.
Good luck,
Bruce.:2tsup:

artme
2nd Jan 2010, 10:54 AM
Nice work there Brad!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Simple lines and well executed.

Ed Reiss
2nd Jan 2010, 01:00 PM
Hi Brad...I dont trust anything but Titebond II for attaching wasteblocks...best glue going, hands down!!!

GoGuppy
2nd Jan 2010, 01:05 PM
Hi Brad...I dont trust anything but Titebond II for attaching wasteblocks...best glue going, hands down!!!

Brad, I agree with Ed and all the others...Stay away (well away!!) from the $2 shop glue sticks..:no:
Cheers

colhu
2nd Jan 2010, 01:41 PM
Hi Brad

Nice work for a first try. Can I tell you what I would do?

You mentioned using a chuck with a tenon in your first post, so I am assuming you have a scroll chuck which can work in both contraction and expansion modes.

I use the aluminium rings out of old VCRs as hot glue chucks - they work really well on material with a good smooth face, like a thicknessed board.

Sit the aluminium ring on an old iron (not the one you use for your good shirts), let it get hot and rub the glue stick directly onto the hot ring, all around the contact face.

Find the centre of the face of the board that is going to be the top of the lid and place the hot aluminium ring onto it, glue side down and carefully centred. Cool it out under the tap.

Mount the aluminium ring in your chuck, and turn the inside of the lid to fit the top of the bowl. Include in the design of the inside of the lid a shallow groove that your scroll chuck will grip into in expansion mode. The easiest way to do this is with the long point of the skew, using the skew flat on the tool rest as a scraper. That way you get a nice sharp-edged groove that the chuck will hold well in. Make the diameter of the groove just a bit more than the almost-closed diameter of the scroll chuck jaws, and you won't get any visible marking inside the groove from the jaws. Sand and finish the inside of the lid taking care not to round over the groove with the sandpaper.

Put the lid and aluminium ring back on the iron for a minute or two to heat up the glue so you can pull it off the lid.

Mount the lid onto your scroll chuck with the chuck in expansion mode gripping into the groove referred to above. Don't over-tighten it or you might split the workpiece. Turn and finish the top of the lid to your taste.

If you don't have an old VCR to pull apart, you could take the same approach with a wooden glue block which you had already turned a tenon onto. The essential thing is to get the glue block as close to the centre as possible, and turn the inside first while mounted on the glue block so that the mounting groove on the inside is concentric with your initial mounting.

I have attached a couple of pics of my most recent lid with the mounting groove inside - the bowl is Huon about 140mm dia and the lid is Coolebah burl.

I could put up a couple of pics of the aluminium glue ring if it would help the explanation.

sorry this is a long post, but this method works for me.:U

cheers, Colin

flutetears
2nd Jan 2010, 01:57 PM
Hi Brad


I have attached a couple of pics of my most recent lid with the mounting groove inside - the bowl is Huon about 140mm dia and the lid is Coolebah burl.

I could put up a couple of pics of the aluminium glue ring if it would help the explanation.

sorry this is a long post, but this method works for me.:U

cheers, Colin

Colin,
I like your idea on the mounting groove inside and it adds to the look to. I will be trying this on my next lid. As to the VCR rings I think I know what you are talking about thats the drum that holds the heads I think
I dont have any old VCR's but I get the idea.
Thanks

colhu
2nd Jan 2010, 02:25 PM
Hi again Brad

I just had a quick look in the pile under the bench and found another small bowl blank with a glue ring already attached. See the first photo.

The second pic shows it mounted in my Vicmark chuck.

Re the comments by a couple of the others about hot glue, I have to say that I do use $2 shop hot glue, and I have only ever had pieces come off after a serious dig-in. I do put the glue all the way around the glue ring, and because the aluminium ring is hot the glue doesn't chill while I am positioning it. Also I mostly use this technique for smaller pieces, but it works for me.

Colin

flutetears
2nd Jan 2010, 02:38 PM
Hi again Brad

I just had a quick look in the pile under the bench and found another small bowl blank with a glue ring already attached. See the first photo.

The second pic shows it mounted in my Vicmark chuck.

Re the comments by a couple of the others about hot glue, I have to say that I do use $2 shop hot glue, and I have only ever had pieces come off after a serious dig-in. I do put the glue all the way around the glue ring, and because the aluminium ring is hot the glue doesn't chill while I am positioning it. Also I mostly use this technique for smaller pieces, but it works for me.

Colin
Funny I found an page on the web that shows the same type of setup using the hot glue and VCR drums.
Now to the goodwill store to get a VCR:D
Thanks for the photos they did help

colhu
2nd Jan 2010, 02:51 PM
Last tip, Brad

If your scroll chuck has jaws with a taper or a lip to help grip things, you should use a HSS skew or scraper to slightly undercut the collar on the VCR ring to minimise the likelihood of the aluminium ring pulling out of the jaws.

Unlike with timber, the scroll chuck jaws can't bite into the aluminium.

good luck with it.

Colin

Rum Pig
2nd Jan 2010, 03:25 PM
Nice one Brad:2tsup::2tsup:

I can't add much more to what everyone has said but I'm sure you will have experimenting:2tsup::2tsup: