View Full Version : bowlsaver replacement tips

19th Jan 2010, 04:57 PM
Does anyone know if there is anyone in Oz , preferably Sydney , who can replace the cutter tips of a Woodcut bowlsaver ? From the prices on the Woodcut web site ,I estimate that it would cost about $40 to send the cutter blade to NZ , have it retipped then ship it back to me . The instructions suggest a saw doctor can do the job, but I would like to find someone who knows what they are doing .

19th Jan 2010, 05:22 PM
Hmmm, A saw Dr would do fine theres a few around I dont think its too complicated. Its basically a one tooth saw set up :U But you would have to go in and explain to them

Chapman Saws (http://chapmansaws.com.au/)

Milperra Saw Works Pty. Limited Supply, Manufacture, Repairs & Sharpening.
Unit 13, 66 Ashford Ave Milperra NSW 2214


Leitz Tooling

<script language="javascript">document.write(rot_decode('<qvi pynff="pryy5"><u7>Nqqerff</u7>Fzvgusvryq<oe />AFJ, 7619<oe />Nhfgenyvn</q</script>Smithfield
NSW, 2164

20th Jan 2010, 09:30 AM
Are the tips on these stellite?

Maybe Woodcut would send some over for a saw doc to fix on the old blades.

PS: yes they are

20th Jan 2010, 09:36 AM
stellite is for sale from most welding supplies and is diferent but not hard to melt on ,and then reshape , quite expensive to buy though . a good saw doctor should know how as a lot of large saw blades use it rather than carbide . cheers . Bob

20th Jan 2010, 04:43 PM
Thanks for the replys .
Looks like I'd better have a talk with a saw doctor . I had also thought about seeing if Woodcut would just supply the stelite tips . I'll keep the forum advised as to how I get on .

8th Mar 2010, 05:08 PM
The follow up as promised.
I took the cutter to a couple of saw doctors and they both said they could do the job no problem but they could not supply the stellite tips . I was quoted $24 if I supplied the tip .
I emailed Woodcut for a price on the tips but got no reply in a week so I just sent the cutter of to them to be retipped . Next day I got a reply from Woodcut quoting $NZ9.50 for a tip . I estimate this would work out about $10A including freight .
All up cost of aproximatly $35 plus the cost of freight to and from the saw doctor .
Woodcuts price to do the job was about $38.60 including freight from NZ , the exchange rate is very good at the moment . Cost of shipping the cutter to NZ was $10.80 . Probably not a lot of difference between the two options .
After about 3 weeks I had heard nothing from Woodcut and was about to email them when they got back to me and said that the tip did not need replacing and they estimated there was enough tip left for about 300 more bowls . They said they would resharpen it and ship it back to me no charge . I had assumed that when the tip was worn back to the base metal, it was time to replace it,so I asked Woodcut what was the wear limit and their reply was that you just keep sharpening and grind back the base metal untill there is no tooth left.I estimate that at this rate I have only used about 1/4 of the original tooth length .Although I have probably only saved about 100 bowls , nearly half have been rock hard burls so this is a pretty good wear rate .
The cutter blade turned up today .I think pretty good service from Woodcut but the whole exercise took some time .


8th Mar 2010, 05:52 PM

Thanks for the update.

8th Mar 2010, 06:22 PM
What is the cost of a new cutter - when you grind the metal away a new cutter will be required.

Good result though



robo hippy
9th Mar 2010, 03:41 AM
I did have some one tell me that you are supposed to sharpen the top of the cutter, not the bevel, though I can't remember if this was specified in the instructions that came with it. I really don't use this coring system too much. This is how you sharpen the Oneway coring tips, the top surface only. I guess it would work, and that is why the cutting tips are concave on the top. Mostly I figured that when the tip was worn out, it would be easier to replace the blade than buy just the tip. Silver soldering the tip on shouldn't be a problem, though I have no metal skills other than grinding. With my McNaughton blades, I just replace them.

robo hippy

Tim the Timber Turner
9th Mar 2010, 01:37 PM
What is the cost of a new cutter - when you grind the metal away a new cutter will be required.Good result though



I once had a saw doctor replace a tip in my McNaughton blade.

A new cutter/blade is not required.

Just have the new carbide tip set a bit deeper into the blade.

My result was better than new as the carbide tip was longer than the original.

One of the problems is that as the tip gets shorter, it also looses some of it's
width. This can result in loosing some blade clearance.

My saw doctor was great, he gave me an old worn out, 400 grit diamond wheel that they use to sharpen saw blades. Works a treat on any carbide tip tool.

From memory he recommended one of the softer grades of carbide as the harder grades can be a bit brittle.

Hope this adds to the discussion.



9th Mar 2010, 04:55 PM
Calm .
Current cost of a new blade is $Aus 53.72 plus cartage and Woodcut advised that they just grind a new base to mount a new tip on when they replace it . Seems to me that this will reduce the potential radious of the cutter . I think that when I do eventually wear out the tip , which should be several years away ,I will just replace the cutter . After all the cost of a cutter is only about what a bowl saved from a good bit of wood is worth .
Robo hippy
Woodcut say don't touch the top surface just give a light grind on the leading face .After all this just rearly just a scrapping cut .


9th Mar 2010, 05:10 PM
as i said before stellite is purchased as a welding rod , works with oxy- gas or acetelene. just weld on to cutter and shape on grinder . competent saw doctors do circular blades tips this way, but its a dying art .i do mine and bandsaw blades too . due to locals who do this, being hard to find . cheers Bob

robo hippy
10th Mar 2010, 07:00 AM
I did kind of figure that you should grind the bevel. The Oneway is different though with that chip breaker tip. All 3 of the coring systems cut as scrapers.

On the McNaughton's, I did have a carbide tip put on one of my old blades, by Mike Hunter of Hunter tools. I had a small square cutter put on so it looks like the standard spear point. It works okay, and I can rotate it when it dulls. I did have one that was a long skinny one, and didn't like it at all. Now, here is where I get weird. I grind the spear point off my McNaughton cutters. Mostly, it still gives you about a 3/8 inch wide cut, but you have less surface area cutting at one time. It doesn't effect the tracking ability of the blades, which always seem to drift to the outside of the cut. The only real difference that I noticed is that it a bit more difficult to cut a blank all the way off as opposed to cutting it most of the way down then having it break off. Cutting it all the way off is more important when coring burl, or crotch wood where when the core breaks out, you can rip out the bottom because the grain isn't running straight across.

I would like to fins some stellite tips on my McNaughtons when the current set are worn down.

robo hippy