Glue help

[Different]

I need some help with glue selection.
I have after all these years only used various PVA glues with success
AV180, AV270, AV190 and now using Garett Wade 202GF.
I have on occasion used other specialty glues but the only time I used a Urea Formaldehyde glue ( AV Syntec Koyobond) I had several massive glue failures in a job and it cost me a fortune to fix. The Timber was Myrtle and I wonder if this might have contributed to the failure.

What I am looking for is a high strength glue with decent open time 30min +
that will glue Myrtle Blackwood Qld Maple ets without failure , creep or staining and that does not require a PHD to mix and prepare. Also needs to be able to be used with Biscuits ie needs to be able to swell a biscuit to make it do its job.
A decent shelf life would be nice too!

Ross

[graemet]

Timbecon's latest newsletter "chatterbox" out today, has a full page on locally available glues. They post them out free for the asking every couple of months along with their sales flyers.

[echnidna]

Whats wrong with pva or yellow glue?

[Different]

Whats wrong with pva or yellow glue?
They go off too quickly and have some glueline creep.

[vsquizz]

Ross, I use Titebond II Extend for biscuit joining in summertime on desk tops etc. Gives me about 15-20 minutes to buggerise round with the clamps and make sure everything is sweet. It will give you 30 min in winter. No mixing.

Don't know about your Myrtle but have used this with great success for the last couple of years on Sheoak, jarrah, wandoo, marri, blackbutt. I have inlaid and edged cypress with jarrah and that seems OK as I'm leaning on it as I type. I think if the joinery is good this glue is adequate for most situations.

Oh.. and the shelf life is lousy, I left the top off mine for 3 months and the bloody stuff went off:(

Cheers

[Termite]

Different, I've just been down the glue road myself and found out a few things concerning Blackwood. The hardener in AVSyntec 204 or any glue with cross link properties will stain Blackwood. I ended up using Titebond 3, it has a reasonable open time , is very strong and best of all cleans up with water, however it also will stain Blackwood if not thouroughly washed off.

[Rocker]

Different,

I have found the urea formaldehyde glue sold by Timbecon to be very satisfactory for glueing bent laminations in blackwood. No staining problems, and no creep. This glue has a liquid hardener, rather than a powder, and should be good for use with biscuits, though I haven't used it with them. The main trouble is that there are no instructions about the ratio of hardener to glue given. But if you use it in a 1:8 ratio - the same as the ratio of the quantities of each supplied - that works well. I have not tried the glue with the other woods that you mention.

Rocker

[silentC]

I was just reading the 'Chatterbox' newsletter from Timbecon and they say in that Urea Formaldehyde is a 1:7 mix. First time I've actually seen the ratio printed anywhere.

[Rocker]

SilentC,

That seems odd. I wonder if the 1:7 figure is genuine, or a figment of some-ones indifferent maths skills. They supply 1 litre of glue and only 1/8 litre of hardener, so if you used the 1:7 ratio, you would run out of hardener before you had finished all the glue. When I enquired from Timbecon about the correct ratio, they told me to mix it in the proportion in which it was supplied. I find the 1:8 ratio works OK as long as you keep the clamps on for the full 12 hours, though you can get away with just 8 hours in hot weather.

Rocker

[silentC]

The hardener appears to be a product in its own right, so perhaps that's just the quantity it is supplied in by its manufacturer. This saligna stuff looks like it's made in someone's garage, I wouldn't be surprised if he buys the Octo Glue from someone else to use as the hardener with his urea formaldehyde glue.

In any case, it has worked fine for me in 1:8 and I see no reason to change.