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View Full Version : Adding driers to tung or linseed oil



echnidna
6th October 2004, 10:42 PM
What driers can be added to Tung Oil or Linseed Oil so they dry fast on hardwood.
Would adding some lavender oil etc to Linseed oil mask that terrible aroma?

ozwinner
7th October 2004, 08:37 AM
What driers can be added to Tung Oil or Linseed Oil so they dry fast on hardwood.
Would adding some lavender oil etc to Linseed oil mask that terrible aroma?
Its the internet for gods sake, we cant smell you, so dont worry about your aroma.

Al :D

Zed
7th October 2004, 08:46 AM
It can take weeks - I usually leave it out in the sun, although the longer it takes to dry the better the penetration into the wood.

I put some linseed on some iron bark 82mm thick recently (as per recent pics I posted) and the linseed penetrated all the way into the centre of the timber so good protection just from 3 coats of oil and some sun.

Oz - things slow in the shop today ? has your GMC SCDS packed it in ? if so it should fit into the store really well.......... :D

Baz
8th October 2004, 08:56 PM
Bob, I was experimenting with Tung Oil and adding Terebine as a drying agent. I didn't get too far as I was using it on bowls and Neil advised against doing that. My problem is with burl bowls, after finishing with oil the cracks and gum veins weep oil for some time . If you dont keep on wiping them you end up with spots of dried oil. Even after a week and you wrap the bowls up for transporting and when you unwrap them you find oil smeared around the cracks or veins. I was trying to speed up the drying process.
Cheers
Barry

PAH1
11th October 2004, 09:43 AM
Bob, I was experimenting with Tung Oil and adding Terebine as a drying agent. I didn't get too far as I was using it on bowls and Neil advised against doing that. My problem is with burl bowls, after finishing with oil the cracks and gum veins weep oil for some time . If you dont keep on wiping them you end up with spots of dried oil. Even after a week and you wrap the bowls up for transporting and when you unwrap them you find oil smeared around the cracks or veins. I was trying to speed up the drying process.
Cheers
Barry

I find that the high speed organoil works fine for that purpose and a lot of the fixing is done with heat on the lathe. Have done burl bowls and have not had the weeping problem. It is basically a tung mixture.

As far as speeding up the drying process goes, in theory many things should work. UV would be good-bad on the wood, oxygen bleaches eg the peroxide type could probably be used, and just using boiled linseed oil would be a good start. The first two I would not really advocate, they could work in theory but making them work in practice would be difficult or dangerous. The last would help but it is still going to take time.

BrianR
11th October 2004, 05:38 PM
I have been using Organoil on burls with good results. There has been bit of weeping for a day or so but that's all.

jur
11th October 2004, 06:11 PM
You could add terebine to tung oil to accelerate drying. That's what converts raw linseed oil to boiled. Boiled linseed oil ain't boiled, it acts as if it's boiled, sorta.


Check the diggers web site for info on terebine.

Different
12th October 2004, 12:12 AM
I have used Terabine for years with good results but I dont know what "terrible aroma" you speak of. In fact I hate my workshop not smelling of Tung oil all the time.

Ross

rsser
12th October 2004, 07:43 AM
I gave up on Burnishing Organoil; found that it raised the grain after a few weeks. Now use Rustin's Danish Oil which I think is a mixture of Tung oil, varnish and dryers. Application can be similar to Organoil with sanding up a slurry and so on then buffing, or for a low sheen just painting on 2 -3 coats 24 hours apart. Works well on burls.

Baz
13th October 2004, 08:47 PM
Thanks guys, I'll stick with Kunos oil.
Cheers
Barry

Dewy
18th October 2004, 05:14 AM
Here is a recipe picked up from a UK forum for Danish Oils.
It shows that terebene is used as the drying agent.

'In my work shop, we (well me to be honest) make and use our own blend of "DANISH" oil, which is a mix to a recipe I was given by a cabinet maker years ago, it contains TUNG oil, Linseed oil (non-boiled), a good quality PURE white spirit, and 1 teaspoon of TEREBENE per 1/2 pint of mixture.. (to assist in the drying process-speeds things up a bit)'

Unfortunately it doesn't give the proportions of each part of the recipe unless we are expected to presume it is 1/3 of each.

Toymaker Len
20th October 2004, 10:27 PM
I bought a little twin tub washer a few years ago to spin the oil off burls.It works a treat. I balance three or four small pieces of oily burl around the bottom of the spin tub, stuff a piece of cloth down between them, set it on full spin for five minutes and walk away. Only a few teaspoons of oil ever come out but the burl stops weeping for good. Somtimes the spinner gets out of balance and starts vibrating horribly and I have to turn it off and re-place everything and start again. I don't see why it wouldn't work even better with a full size washing mashine and a couple of heavy burl bowls. Now there's a potential suprise for a wedding anniversary.