Shop made Oland Tool

[thumb trimmer]

Fellow turned formites ...

I've just completed my second oland tool. The first went to a mate fo his birthday, and I didn't get any photo's. This one I'll be 'giving a go' ... hopefully tomorrow ... 'dending SWMBO.

I apologise in advance for the 'quality' of the images. Taken with ye old phone camera.

Please provide positive criticism or comments.

Thanks
TT

[thumb trimmer]

... sorry forgot to include 'specs' ...

- 1/4" x 2 1/2" HSS bit
- 5/8" Stainless rod
- spotted gum handle
- 32mm copper pipe ferrule
- total length (including tip) approx 850mm

[stuffy]

Great work TT.

Looks really solid.
:2tsup:

[Gil Jones]

Hey, TT,
That is a fine looking Oland boring tool:2tsup::2tsup:
Gil

[dai sensei]

Looks great :2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

Sure to get a lot of use...good job :2tsup: and the pics ain't bad at all for a phone camera

[orraloon]

Good job you have done there. Handy looking tool.
Regards
John

[hughie]

well done! :2tsup:

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

BAA! (I mean, "Looks good!" :2tsup:)

Just as a matter of curiosity, what do you plan on using it for?

It looks loooong. Perfect for deep hollowing. But... how far have you seated the shaft into the handle? Deep hollowing can generate a lot of leverage on the handle junction.

If you send it to me I can put it through a series of stress tests for you... :innocent:

[hughie]

If you send it to me I can put it through a series of stress tests for you... :innocent:

:U.. perhaps the major stress might be the return date.............:U


Good read of your return 'O ghost who Posts'.

[thumb trimmer]

Thanks one and all ... :B

I've given it a bit of a go this evening.

- Worked 'ok' on the lump of redgum which I still haven't worked out what to do with yet (see image attached below) ... the redgum's hard as ... :~
- Worked like a dream when used to hollow. I turned two myrtle bracelets ... hadn't tried that before, and worked ok.
- I also turned a houn bowl, solely using the new tool (pictures to come). Again worked a charm on the outside, and particularly hollowing the inside ... until (famous last words) I thought I'd go back and clean up that little edge :doh: ... I'm just super pleased with the Bionic face shield which protected my face from the flying shards of houn.
I've started sanding the broken parts out ... could make this into an interesting, although useless bowl.

All tolled ... I'm super pleased with the tool so far. I'm able to 'hang' out over the tool rest a fair way without shake or chatter.
I might also buy a few more 1/4" tips, so that when working on the redgumn (or similar), I only need to swap the tool out when I want it sharp.

PS ... Skew ChiDAMN!! ... the SS rod is 400mm long, with about 90mm into the handle ... and yes it is pretty long ... :roll: the tailstock had to be moved as far as it would go down the bed, and the centre part (name eludes me at present) wound completely in so I could get the swing around on the end of the handle.

But as you've mentioned, I'm hoping to start playing with a couple of blanks that'll need to be 'hollowed' (eg. see pic below)

Thanks
TT

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

:2tsup:

Glad to see you're happy with it.

A couple of hints: If you slip a short wad of leather or similar down the end of the tool before fitting the tip, you can sharpen both ends of it at once and then simply flip it when the need arises.

I've also found that I get a much better cut with a rounded tip (a bullnose style) than I do with a plain, square tip. For two reasons:

A) it has less cutting edge applied to the wood, but the improvement in cutting means it seems to cut even more effectively.

B) the sharpened edge means it cuts one the side as it traverses the wood. A straight tip is really only good for "plunge cutting."


:U.. perhaps the major stress might be the return date.............:U

Good read of your return 'O ghost who Posts'.

Return date? Return? Oh. no. I test to destruction. (Which may, of course, take a few decades. Call me through, if you will. :D )

And it's good to be back. Although others may cringe at the thought. Mwahahaha!

Hmmm... Soren said you still have a few Li'l Rippers left? I may have an outlet for a few coming up in the near future. Plus another for myself, of course.

[hughie]

A couple of hints: If you slip a short wad of leather or similar down the end of the tool before fitting the tip, you can sharpen both ends of it at once and then simply flip it when the need arises.

I've also found that I get a much better cut with a rounded tip (a bullnose style) than I do with a plain, square tip. For two reasons:

A) it has less cutting edge applied to the wood, but the improvement in cutting means it seems to cut even more effectively.

B) the sharpened edge means it cuts one the side as it traverses the wood. A straight tip is really only good for "plunge cutting."


Sound advise, Its what I do the same myself, you'll find that with a round nose you can sweep along the bottom or down the side of your hollow form with great ease. :2tsup:




Hmmm... Soren said you still have a few Li'l Rippers left? I may have an outlet for a few coming up in the near future. Plus another for myself, of course.


No worries just drop me a line. I'll keep all the screws etc in a more prominent position as I wrap so they don't get tossed out by accident.

[thumb trimmer]

:doh: ... sorry meant to add in my original post ...

"ground the tip at 45 degress (ish) and slightly rounded"



... I'm also thinking (at some at stage) of giving the 'recycled' milling bit a go for hollowing.


TT

[hughie]

"ground the tip at 45 degress (ish) and slightly rounded"

This will be fairly aggressive,if too much cut the angle back some . I have had the angle back to as far as 80'




... I'm also thinking (at some at stage) of giving the 'recycled' milling bit a go for hollowing.


Will work just fine, keep a look out for old carbide end mills etc as these are even better.

[Pat]

I've left mine at 80° and find the square and round edge's to be aggressive enough . . . especially in the 12mm version:U

[thumb trimmer]

first work pic (using the new tool) as mentioned ...

[thumb trimmer]

Hughie and Pat,

D'you mean A or B (see image below) ???

TT

[hughie]

B is good A will be very aggressive and the edge does not have that much support so it will wear faster.
As you get a handle on the tool you will have several grinds for different occasions. But to start with stick with B for a few bowls.

[Pat]

B is what I use, especially if you hang a lot of the tool over the tool rest.

I might grind one of my spares to "A" specs and have a play next week. TT are you going to the GTG next Sunday as Hughie and myself will be there and we can espouse freely the benefits of the oland tool :;

[Manuka Jock]

TT,
any chance of seeing some photos of the bits by themselves .
(I have a few old thicknesser blades and have been thinking of making some tools from them )

cheers ,
Jock

[thumb trimmer]

Pat,

What's the " GTG next Sunday " ??? :shrug:

Gosford Turning Group?

Something else?


TT

[thumb trimmer]

To those on a tight (married) budget,

It only cost me about 70 odd dollars (in materials, and if you don't include the broken tap and a can of lubricant used to drill the steel) to make the two oland tools.
ie.
- $32 for the two lengths of Stainless rod
- $8 for the two HSS 'bits'
- $1 for the four Stainless socket set screws
- $30(something) for a length of copper pipe (the smallest length they would sell was 1m), but I guess that I've got heaps left to build other stuff with, and
- the spotted gum was from a board that I got for nix with my drill press

... and worth every penny ... it works great

TT

[Pat]

TT the turning Get ToGether on Sunday 29/08/10 at nz_carvers (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/sydney-august-116966/) place.

[Dave50]

thats one mighty fine looking weapon! well done!

[rsser]

If you google on Oland Tool you'll get some vids from a US exponent; he appears to be using fairly large bits with the bevel rubbing, on fairly soft woods.

IIRC the orignal Mr Oland used the bits on large lumps of green timber.

[thumb trimmer]

Ern,

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that Mr Knud Oland's misses still uses the 1/4" tool for the work that she still does.

... and I've been able to get pretty good finish on Huon with the bevel rubbing (so far) ... with the exception of the stoopid catch (my fault).

TT

[thumb trimmer]

... and Dave, that's what a couple guys in the office said when I show'd them my new oland tool. (re: that it was a weapon)

[rsser]

That's right TT. There's a vid in webland showing her sitting down in front of a large slowly rotating lump.

[hughie]

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that Mr Kudd Oland's misses still uses the 1/4" tool for the work that she still does.


....and I gather she still sells them.

[Pat]

Tim, I mucked around with a tip ground at about 55°, very aggressive. I used it on Beefwood, which is not a good timber to play with, it has the tendency to blow up in your face:o

[wheelinround]

Tim, I mucked around with a tip ground at about 55°, very aggressive. I used it on Beefwood, which is not a good timber to play with, it has the tendency to blow up in your face:o


Looking forward to see these tools at the GTG Hughie and Pat.

Pat make sure you bring blown Beefwood might make pen blanks for Sawdust Maker o segmentation wood for Jim.

Oh Did the blow up improve your looks :q:no:

[Pat]

Oh Did the blow up improve your looks :q:no:


No mate, I am still as ugly as a bag of squashed toads:U

[stuffy]

I haven't tried it yet, but grinding a small top bevel (negative rake), might be another option for an Oland tool tip. Especially for scraping the bottoms of deep vessels.
What do you think?
:)