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thumb trimmer
27th August 2010, 03:40 PM
Fellow turned formites,

I've had a crack at a piece of crotch gum/eucalypt (type unknown) from a neighbours tree using the 'new' oland tool
(see thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/shop-made-oland-tool-122767/#post1201306 )

See attached pics to see where I'm up to. Comments/feedback welcome.

The main reason for this thread is;
1. (The question that I'm sure ha been done to death, but was hoping for the executive summary version) How to 'dry' the bowl with limited cracking?

... and ...

2. I'm going to make another tool which will allow me to attach scrapers and and adjustable angled 1/4" bit, to 'hollow' the sides which I've had trouble reaching with the straight Oland tool.

Thanks in advance
TT

wheelinround
27th August 2010, 03:43 PM
Photo's are a bit rough TT so bring it Sunday to GTG so we can have a good look.:U

thumb trimmer
27th August 2010, 03:48 PM
will do ...

I'll bring the 'nu' tool as well ... :; but it'll be leashed to my wrist.

TT

wheelinround
27th August 2010, 04:21 PM
:roll: damn :U

artme
27th August 2010, 06:51 PM
Nice looking piece there so far!!!:2tsup::2tsup::)

joe greiner
27th August 2010, 09:23 PM
For my second Oland tool, I simply set the cutter at 45 degrees to the shank - no adjustment needed or wanted. It goes deep enough for most of my purposes, so far. For torque control, I use a small vise-grip pliers clamped to the shank, therefore movable along the shank for increased depth.

Cheers,
Joe

Sturdee
27th August 2010, 11:35 PM
Nice looking bowls so far. BTW have you got an extension piece on your spindle before the chuck as it seems longer than mine.


Peter.

steck
28th August 2010, 12:26 AM
The simplest method I use to dry my green bowls is to wrap them in heavy paper and put them away in an airy spot, preferably with a couple of strips of wood to lift them up a bit. Come back to check in a couple of months.
I also have a barrel of metho which I sometimes use to soak bowls in for 3 to 4 hours before wrapping them in heavy paper. This works well, too.
Good luck with it.
When the bowls do crack, I save some of the shavings, which I stuff in the crack and apply thin CA glue.

Ed Reiss
28th August 2010, 12:28 PM
Fellow turned formites,

I've had a crack at a piece of crotch gum/eucalypt (type unknown) from a neighbours tree using the 'new' oland tool
(see thread http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/shop-made-oland-tool-122767/#post1201306 )

See attached pics to see where I'm up to. Comments/feedback welcome.

The main reason for this thread is;
1. (The question that I'm sure ha been done to death, but was hoping for the executive summary version) How to 'dry' the bowl with limited cracking?
TT


tim, the best way is to rough out the bowl leaving 10-20% thicker than final size...then apply a liberal coating of AnchorSeal. Let sit 6 months to a year then finish turn.
Good Luck:2tsup:

thumb trimmer
28th August 2010, 09:34 PM
hmmmmm .... seems that I need to track down some patience ... damn clean out of that ... bugger

Aside from 'nuking' the bowl, how successful have people been with the detergent method?

TT