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bclapcot
27th August 2010, 09:39 PM
Hi Everyone,

Has anyone had any experience with the Bowl Saw tool (Steussy Creations' Bowl Saw (http://www.bowlsaw.com)). I'm considering getting hold of one to save the cores from bowl blanks. The price is good, but I'm concerned about the safety aspects of using one.


Bernie.

Rifleman1776
27th August 2010, 11:42 PM
On another forum I heard favorable comments about it.
He does offer a free trial, can't beat that.
Worth a try. We all hate wasted wood.

mkypenturner
28th August 2010, 10:21 AM
from looking at in the past i think it gives you a flat base only ( not sure ) i have a woodcut bowlsaver from woodcut and i love it its so easy to use

RETIRED
28th August 2010, 12:25 PM
It has been discussed here before:http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/bowlsaver-bowlsaw-87659/

bclapcot
28th August 2010, 01:09 PM
Ok... Thanks!

orraloon
28th August 2010, 03:30 PM
Bernie,
I did think about it for a while and the price is good. Both sizes for about $100 aus delivered. I then had the opertunity of a secondhand McNaughten so I grabbed that. I think it would be the go for those with smaller lathes say 1hp and under. I have a 1hp and find I have to go easy with the NcNaughten or it stalls. I get the job done but it takes a gentle tutch with the tool sharp.
As to safety it does not look to be any riskier than most other things done on a lathe. Just use slow speed.

Regards
John

bclapcot
28th August 2010, 09:31 PM
Thanks John..... I'll have to look into the McNaughten corers.

robo hippy
29th August 2010, 03:28 AM
For production purposes, the Bowl Saw would not be worth the effort for me. It is pretty limited in what you can core.

I prefer the McNaughton, the most diverse coring tool out there, but there is a bit of a learning curve with it. You free hand it, so you have to learn how to aim. Not really all that difficult, but you will probably make some funnels/lampshades from time to time.

1 hp lathes are a bit minimal for coring purposes, but will work. Steve Russel talks about a 'pulse' method, where you let the speed build up, then plunge in gently, and if the lathe starts to slow down, pull back out, and let the speed build up, then plunge again. You can core at higher speeds as well, depending on how comfortable you feel with the tool. If you try coring at too slow rpms, then it is too much work for the cutter and the lathe. I prefer to core smaller bowls at up to 1000 rpm, and larger ones from 500 and up, depending on how well balanced the blank is.

McNaughton does make a micro set of coring tools just for the mini lathes, and they work quite well. All of the standard sized coring tools are about 3/8 inch wide. The micro set are 1/4 inch wide. I have taken all of my McNaughton knives, and ground the spear point off square. Kel thinks I am crazy for doing this, but what that does is reduce your cutting tip from just over 1/2 inch (the two sides of the spear) to 3/8 inch (the base of the triangle).

The Woodcut coring tool is a nice little tool as well. I demonstrated with it on a small Oneway lathe with a 1 hp motor, and it worked fine. I do consider that lathe to be rather lacking in torque for a 1 hp motor. The Woodcut is on a pivoting center, and is simple to operate. Only 2 coring blades, but fine for most smaller bowls. I believe the big blade is a 5 or 6 inch radius.

robo hippy

tea lady
29th August 2010, 12:28 PM
McNaughton does make a micro set of coring tools just for the mini lathes, and they work quite well. All of the standard sized coring tools are about 3/8 inch wide. The micro set are 1/4 inch wide. I have taken all of my McNaughton knives, and ground the spear point off square. Kel thinks I am crazy for doing this, but what that does is reduce your cutting tip from just over 1/2 inch (the two sides of the spear) to 3/8 inch (the base of the triangle).


robo hippyWould be interested in seeing pics of how you have ground the tips. Less cutting surface in contact would be better I reckon.:cool:

orraloon
29th August 2010, 04:42 PM
robo hippy,
I soon learned the pulse method. On the first blank I cut as the lathe won't allow any other way of doing it. I will have a go with a bit more speed and see how that goes. As I said going easy works and saving that extra wood is a big plus however it is done. Its the only time I wish my lathe had more grunt. Who knows perhaps a larger motor is not a bad idea. I would like to try a bowlsaw sometime as I reckon it would be the easy way for smaller blanks and on smaller machines.
Regards
John

bclapcot
29th August 2010, 05:14 PM
Interesting article on that here Using the Kelton Center Saver to Make Nested Bowl Sets (http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/center-saver.html)

robo hippy
30th August 2010, 03:20 AM
I don't have the skills to take or post pics. I know, a bit behind the times. I just grind the triangle/spear point down till it is straight across/square. I experimented a lot with various tip designs, going back to the old style blades where the tip was beveled off to one side. I couldn't find any difference in how the blades cut or tracked while coring with any tip configuration, bevel to inside, outside, square, or spear points.

robo hippy

NeilS
30th August 2010, 12:24 PM
. I just grind the triangle/spear point down till it is straight across/square.


... and grinding square across is much easier than the more complicated geometry of the spear point.

Anyway, Robo Hippy is the expert on all matters coring. So whatever he says....:U

BTW, he (Reed Gray) sells an excellent DVD he made on Bowl Coring with the McNaughton System.

.....