Glue advise

[Intarsiaman]

I Have just completed my first muti wood 40+ piece Intarsia using PVA glue.
I found I had to glue and assemble my project in sections due to the fast setting of the glue, the result being not as good as I had hoped, the joins not as even and tight as I would have liked. Next time I'd like to use a glue that has at least 15 mins before setting to allow a complete assembly. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Tikki]

Hi Intarsiaman

I dread glue down day!!! http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon8.gif I too have used PVA, and Weldbond, and Saligna ...they all seem to have about a three minute closing time. It becomes more frustrating as your projects get larger, you have to work so quickly and really concentrate on where you've been! (I've learnt to swear since doing intarsia http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon11.gif ) I too would welcome an answer - a slow curing, clear drying glue.
Lets hope someone can help us.
Regards
Tikki

[ssgt]

Intarsiaman.
day, I use titebond II or Extend or titebond III, depending where the finished object is going to be displayed. I recently made 4 intarsie patterns to fit in the panels on my front door and used titebond III incase of any rain splash. Here in Perth during summer I generally use titebon II extend which gives me a lot longer open time for the fiddly or complicated glue ups. To save having a forrest of clamps I also use a dab of hot stuff (super glue) to hold the individual pieces in places while the titbond cures. Hope this is of some help.

[Intarsiaman]

SSgt Thanks for that, how long do you have before the glue sets?

[ssgt]

Intarsiaman
My glue of choice is generally Titebon II which depending on the ambient temp and how thick it is applied gives me approx 5 min. Using Titebond II extend gives me approx 15 min depending on ambient temp, thickness of application etc. Generally I will have everything laid out on the backing board and usually start from the bottom and work up. As I said befor I usually use a dab of superglue to hold the piece in place while the Titebond goes off. No need for a forrest of clamps. Also I usually trace the outline of each individual piece onto the backing with black texta just in case there are any un-noticed gaps between the edges of each piece, this helpe hide these little disasters.

[Bob H]

Hello Intarsiaman

I am not sure what glue we have here in Canada that has a comparable name there so I won’t quote brand names.

The glue I use is known here as “white” glue.

Designed for wood/paper and the like.



There is also a “Carpenters” glue much the same but somewhat yellow.

These are interior use glues and water based.



If the glue were being used on some sort of load bearing surface it would have to be clamped for at least a half hour. But I find clamping is only needed in some (intarsia) instances.



Several ways of gluing up (as I do it):



If the fit is good I place one or more sections together, firmly with sufficient drops of glue to spread out. Then I place the section aside (on a none-glue-able surface) to set and dry. Often this is sufficient as for when I come back to it in an hour or so they can be handled easily.



There are some instances when I might use a Hot Melt Glue Gun to put a drop or two in place to hold the pieces as they set. And in even fewer times, I might use a clamp.



I assemble the sections as single pieces to other sections as I progress.



Unless the whole item is very large, the glue holds the whole assembly together while I place it and glue it on the backer. At this point I very often will apply clamps all around the piece because the backer then provides all the strength.



I don’t spend a lot of money on glue. Opting for House Brands, or No Name stuff (generics).

The White glue’s advantages also include: dries clear, spill over runs wipe up immediately with water of if allowed to dry can usually be picked off the surface with the point of a knife. And stays workable for a reasonable time when positioning.



Anyway that is my method which seems to work for me.



In case I confused anyone with the idea of not putting it on the backer till final assembly:

I might explain that I do not cut out the backer to the finished shape before assembling the whole piece. I use a piece of ¼ inch birch or oak plywood, cut to just over the finished size. Then glue the art to the backer, let glue set.

Then I tilt my S/Saw table a couple of degrees and saw around the perimeter. This ensures a virtually perfect fit, the backer is beveled inwards and becomes invisible from the front.



Hopes this helps.

Bob