Hot Shed- summers coming

[bigawse]

Hi all, I've recently moved into a new place which has a 6x6 slightly gabled metal shed which I feel is going to be unbearable in summer when I'm working. I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to anything insulation.....man cave needs to be cool as is only place to get away from the boss

I plan on insulating it and was just wondering anybody got any ideas about what is the best. I plan on using the bats with the silver foil attatched to it. I'm just wondering if its worth me pulling off the roof sheets and laying some wire down and then my foil lined bats and then reattatching my roof sheets. lotta work , do the insulation batts hang over the tops of the wall sheets??

Should the foil face inwards or outwards or both on this insulation. And if the roof sheets go down over them there will be no gap between them...Does it need one. Same with the walls. Shoudl the insulatiuon bats or foil touch the side sheets on the sheds or shoudl I add some support frames for the insulation to have a gap off from the sheets.

Not really sure what sort of extraction/ ventalation I want yet.. may get dusty and may help keeping the heat down. May also add mdf sheets or plasterboard at a later date.. See what sort of difference the insulation makes.

Million questions and have read heaps of the forums, just cant make up my mind on something definete to work with.

[jmk89]

Have a look at post #9 in this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/shed-rises-darn-slowly-125445/). The idea of using the water collected from the roof to cool the roof seems really sensible.

As important as insulation is airflow. Do make sure you can get the prevailing breeze through the shed. Also consider putting a whirlygig extractor on the roof. Getting hot air out pf the shed is important to making a comfortable shed

[banjoping]

Biggie,

I am a shed builder and your best product is your foil based building blanket, Bradfords Anticon 55 or 75mm or equivalent by another manufacturer. Steer away from gimmicky "Air" or Bubble type insulation. If you are going to take the roof off you may as well do it properly.

You will need to take the roof off, and probably the gutters as well. Lay your blanket over 1.25mm Insulmesh support mesh. The blanket should be laid shiny side into the shed as you do not want any fibres inside. The blanket is laid over the roof purlins. As a natural consequence it is compressed over the roof purlins where it is screwed off and loses some efficiency, but short of creating a cavity ceiling it is still the best option. You should be able to cut it pretty much to length. You may have to back out the top row of wall teks to allow you to push back the wall sheet a little to pin the roof insulation before screwing off.

This product used like this is basically a thermal break and bulk wool insulation and sisalation. If you are lining the shed internally it would probably be easier to use batts as these can be cut between the wall girts and secured when the internal cladding is used. Eitherway your building blanket and foil to the outside of the wall and roof wil be a good start, and if you ever do enclose down the way you can chuck some more batts in the walls to get even better performance.

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Bigawse

I recently insulated my shed (against the mountain cold) with 70mm thick polystyrofoam sheets. This was for the walls, and it came in at about $50 per 2500x1200 sheet. When I come to do the ceiling (under a tin lid) I will use the same material but with the silver foil already glued to it. I got (and will get) this from Foamex in Revesby (Sydney, but they have branches in other states).

How does it perform? Very well indeed against the cold (I could feel the shed getting warmer and warmer as I worked my way around. Should be the same for heat insulation. I'm not sure if there are any regulations about using this material (in case of noxious gases in a fire - but then I'd POQ anyway).

What I like about this stuff is that it's easy to cut to size (score both sides and snap) and is super easy to mount as it's stiff but weighs nothing (it's 98% air). When it comes to mounting the foil coated sheets in the ceiling they'll be foil side to sun and will simply sit on a few nails banged into the rafters, and I'll then put the timber lining back in place. For you this would mean that you don't have to take the lid off to insulate.

Foamex say that the foiled sheets needs 20mm gap from the adjacent surface, and I reckon that the orb in the tin roof is about exactly that (even though a part of the orb will touch the foil).

It cost me about $270 for 5 sheets which did the walls of my 5x3 metre barn. Some of the cavities were filled with the cut up inserts from my Kapex saw packaging et al, which I was really happy about because it's so difficult to dispose of.

Regards, Brett

[nihilism]

I installed a second hand evaporative air con in my 6x10m shed which has concete walls and an uninsulated tin roof. Makes a lot of difference even on low.

[pellcorp]

I had aircell installed when the shed was built - makes one hell of a difference! The shed is marginally cooler than one half of our house which does not have insulation in the roof

[bigawse]

Thanks for your ideas guys

Yeah..will probably go the anticon foil insulation. Think I already have a roll of it somewhere... Maybe a false ceiling will be a go, have to see whats involved..... my mate does it for a living, have to swing him a few beers to give us a hand.....

perth summers make it unbearable in the shed...I should leave a gap between the insualtion and the metal walls hey? Was going to attatch it to the frame...might have to put some more support beams in.....

Next purchase after that will be a whirly bird or extraction fan...

[Beetle Shirt]

I have aircell insulation in the walls and roof of my 3x5m shed. Very impressed with it so far, and the aircell is very easy to work with - no fibres! If you get it though, make sure you get the thicker version - mine's 13mm thick, and is apparently much more effective than the thinner versions. On a hot day the colourbond on the outside is hot, and the aircell inside the shed is just barely warm.

Banjoping, why do you say the aircell is gimmicky? I'm happy with mine, but am unable to directly compare it with the Anticon that you suggested.

[banjoping]

I aircell insulation in the walls and roof of my 3x5m shed. Very impressed with it so far, and the aircell is very easy to work with - no fibres! If you get it though, make sure you get the thicker version - mine's 13mm thick, and is apparently much more effective than the thinner versions. On a hot day the colourbond on the outside is hot, and the aircell inside the shed is just barely warm.

Banjoping, why do you say the aircell is gimmicky? I'm happy with mine, but am unable to directly compare it with the Anticon that you suggested.

It's gimmicky as it just does not perform for what it costs- it only marginally outperforms just sisalation foil, and at about 6 or 7 times the price.

CSIRO and ICANZ (Insulation Council of Australia and New Zealand) have done extensive studies comparing sisalation (foil), sisalation and bubble wrap (AirCell type products), and sisalation and building blanket (Anticon type products) in various types of roofs over winter and summer.

The most comparable situation is RO900 (flat metal roof) as the majority of the comparisons they have are residential housing or commercial applications with internal ceilings.
ICANZ :: Flat Metal Roof with No Ceiling (warehouse) (http://www.icanz.org.au/handbook/R0900/)

In winter and summer the R value of Anticon is from 2.9 to 3.2.

The best they can get the R value of AirCell, even when drooping between the rafters 40mm is 0.79 to 1.6. This is comparable to normal sisalation without the fancy, expensive bubble of air attached to it, with an R of 0.64 to 1.4.

So the anticon is anywhere from 2 to 3.5 times as effective as your AirCell or bubble wrap type products.

Sure, you will notice a difference with the AirCell, but for the same type of money I would have Anticon being 2 to 3 times as efficient every day in my roof.

AirCell have tied up a number of the larger franchise shed companies with agencies for their product, so they tend to push it as the best insulation, when it is not. It has it's applications, but 90% of the time Anticon (or competitors alternative) is your best bang for your buck by a mile.

[Waldo]

Can the Bradfords Anticon 75mm be glued to the underside of the roofing in a shed?

[Beetle Shirt]

Interesting. The aircell has a table on the wrapper giving R values between 1.5 and 3.3, depending on how it's installed, with various compliance standards. More here: http://www.insulvac.com.au/Reflecta-Guard%20Specs.pdf

That link also specifies tight safety mesh, which means no air gap between the metal sheet and the insulation.

It may be a victim of the insulation debacle though - their site protherm.com.au is defunct, with just a few nonsense words on the page. In any case I won't be removing mine in favour of another type, but the next shed may well use something different! Thanks for the info, anyway.

[banjoping]

Can the Bradfords Anticon 75mm be glued to the underside of the roofing in a shed?

No, not successfully. Anticon should be shiny side into the shed to minimise fibres into the shed. You will not be able to glue the flimsy fibre insulation to the underside of the roof sheet.

[Waldo]

Okay thanks. So then a support mesh fixed to the purlins as you wrote a few posts back is the way to do it. :2tsup:

[banjoping]

Interesting. The aircell has a table on the wrapper giving R values between 1.5 and 3.3, depending on how it's installed, with various compliance standards. More here: http://www.insulvac.com.au/Reflecta-Guard%20Specs.pdf

That link also specifies tight safety mesh, which means no air gap between the metal sheet and the insulation.

It may be a victim of the insulation debacle though - their site protherm.com.au is defunct, with just a few nonsense words on the page. In any case I won't be removing mine in favour of another type, but the next shed may well use something different! Thanks for the info, anyway.

Yeah, I've seen lots of claims over the years from various differing suppliers of insulation!!! The CSIRO and ICANZ stuff is comprehensive, and as independent as you can get these days, so I know who I will be beleiving. For the money asked, the airbubble products do not add anything more than can be gained from simple foil sisalation.

There is no doubt that some of the various alternate insulation solutions have their place, but you really need to look at r value/per $ to determine what is best for your dollar.

Convenience is all well and good, but I would suggest a lot of people on this site almost live in their shed, so I would be looking for effectiveness as well.

[banjoping]

Okay thanks. So then a support mesh fixed to the purlins as you wrote a few posts back is the way to do it. :2tsup:

Waldo, you will still need to take the roof off and lay the inso over the roof purlins (or joists). The effectiveness of insulation comes from containing the pocket of air and transferring the thermal energy change from outside into this pocket rather than the rest of the shed. Hence it needs to be as airtight as possible. Taping your inso with insulation tape is also a good idea to maximise the effectiveness.

[Waldo]

but I would suggest a lot of people on this site almost live in their shed, so I would be looking for effectiveness as well.

:innocent: 8 hours a 5 day working week then shed time on weekends. I'd say :yes:

[Waldo]

:aro-u: Yep, I get that. :2tsup: (shed roof off ect. )

[banjoping]

:innocent: 8 hours a 5 day working week then shed time on weekends. I'd say :yes:

Holy moly!!! I guess the one good thing is that you would lose a lot of weight in the summer in an uninsulated shed if you were working these hours.

This could be an unfortunate side effect!!! :D

[Waldo]

Running a home based business it's like being a mushroom. I have air in the office but, but 30º+ days still aren't fun.

[Ekim]

Does anybody have any experience with this stuff?:

Roof Paint, Roof Insulation, Roof Restoration, Reflective Paint, Concrete Paint: Cool Paints (http://solacoat.com.au/)

The testimonials published on the web site look interesting.

[banjoping]

Does anybody have any experience with this stuff?:

Roof Paint, Roof Insulation, Roof Restoration, Reflective Paint, Concrete Paint: Cool Paints (http://solacoat.com.au/)

The testimonials published on the web site look interesting.

Would maybe assist increasing reflection and decreasing heat via radiation?? You will still have issues with conduction and convection heat however.

[beer is good]

Some time ago I spoke to the government energy office about insulating paint. The insulation part of it is rubbish. A skin of paint is going to stop heat transfer?? The paint makers might claim that a shed painted with their paint is 10 degrees cooler than a dark shed - that might be true but having a shed made out of white/cream Colourbond will be just as good and ordinary white/cream paint will reflect as well as some expensive stuff.


Bigawse
I have a 5 x 4 metre shed and I glued 45mm polystyrene to the underneath of the roof. I think it works, but the problem with a shed is having windows and leaving the doors open for extra light. Steel conducts heat very well so if it is 40 degrees outside then the steel will just let that radiate through. I think that a shed would have to be insulated on all sides and the roof to get it noticeably cooler in summer, and as soon as you have doors or windows open, the warm air gets in there. Be grateful we don't have freezing winters!!

[banjoping]

Some time ago I spoke to the government energy office about insulating paint. The insulation part of it is rubbish. A skin of paint is going to stop heat transfer?? The paint makers might claim that a shed painted with their paint is 10 degrees cooler than a dark shed - that might be true but having a shed made out of white/cream Colourbond will be just as good and ordinary white/cream paint will reflect as well as some expensive stuff.


Bigawse
I have a 5 x 4 metre shed and I glued 45mm polystyrene to the underneath of the roof. I think it works, but the problem with a shed is having windows and leaving the doors open for extra light. Steel conducts heat very well so if it is 40 degrees outside then the steel will just let that radiate through. I think that a shed would have to be insulated on all sides and the roof to get it noticeably cooler in summer, and as soon as you have doors or windows open, the warm air gets in there. Be grateful we don't have freezing winters!!

Agree with both your comments above, and that beer is good. :D

We still do not double glaze as standard in Australia, which given our extreme climate is fairly ridiculous. Hopefully, as six star energy effiency is introduced next year, we may see more window manufacturers offering it, and the price coming down appreciably from where it is currently.

[bigawse]

How much does the anticol foil backed insulation cost.??

[beer is good]

Agree with both your comments above, and that beer is good. :D

We still do not double glaze as standard in Australia, which given our extreme climate is fairly ridiculous. Hopefully, as six star energy effiency is introduced next year, we may see more window manufacturers offering it, and the price coming down appreciably from where it is currently.

I have read that double glazing is much better at keeping heat in (in a cold climate) than it is in keeping a room cool. Glass is very good at letting heat through an unshaded window. So maybe, rather than having double glazing, we should keep the sun off the windows - orientation of the building, awnings, blinds etc.

[Beetle Shirt]

+1 beerman, and also that it seems easier in general to keep heat in than keep it out. It's much easier psychologically to keep the doors and windows shut when it's cold outside than when it's 35 degrees in the shed. As soon as you open it up to airflow it won't matter if your insulation is perfect for radiated and conducted heat, you've just turned on a very efficient convection heater. This unfortunately happens a lot anyway even if you can resist the temptation to see if it's cooler outside than the stinking hot shed, because we need airflow to remove the nasties that end up in the air - dust, odours, drying finishes...

Banjo, my insulation is definitely better than sarking - I've handled both and sarking reaches clearly higher temps on the inner surface. I note that the ICANZ tests don't mention anything about the aircell other than the generic name 'bubble foil'. Want to buy a plane blade from me? Care what brand it is or it's size or thickness? Let's just leave it at you not liking aircell products, and me being happy with mine. In the end it probably doesn't matter that much for the reasons mentioned in the paragraph above; you'd do better by putting the shed under a tree and organising a cool breeze. :;

[banjoping]

Banjo, my insulation is definitely better than sarking - I've handled both and sarking reaches clearly higher temps on the inner surface. I note that the ICANZ tests don't mention anything about the aircell other than the generic name 'bubble foil'. Want to buy a plane blade from me? Care what brand it is or it's size or thickness? Let's just leave it at you not liking aircell products, and me being happy with mine. In the end it probably doesn't matter that much for the reasons mentioned in the paragraph above; you'd do better by putting the shed under a tree and organising a cool breeze. :;

No worries mate, we will leave it at that. And you are right about the brand, there is now a bit of imported rip off stuff coming in, so I would stick with the original (ie Air Cell).

AirCell have a couple of excellent products that we do use- check out their Insulbreak80 thermal break. Perfect for stopping heat transfer say from corry external cladding through a metal frame. Acts as insulation, a vapour barrier, and a thermal break. Easy to use and cost effective.

Permishield is also a similar excellent bundle.

[FenceFurniture]

For Banjoping: I see that nobody has commented on my use of polystyrofoam. Am I off beam in using this material (and therefore ignored as a pseudo-charlatan, whatever that might be!) Or is it a matter of being cost effective? On that topic I thought $250 for all the walls of a 5x3 metre barn was pretty good, but of course I'd be happy to learn of anything better (in performance or cost).

I'd have to say that I'm pretty pleased with the temperature insulation characteristics of the poly. Another MAJOR reason that I used this material was for sound proofing (read reduction) as the barn is close to neighbors houses. This aspect in particular won't work properly until the roof is done, so it's difficult to tell just yet (still plenty of sound leakage).

All comments are most welcome (even if I am painting myself as a nutter - plenty of us on here I'm sure!).

Regards, Brett

[banjoping]

For Banjoping: I see that nobody has commented on my use of polystyrofoam. Am I off beam in using this material (and therefore ignored as a pseudo-charlatan, whatever that might be!) Or is it a matter of being cost effective? On that topic I thought $250 for all the walls of a 5x3 metre barn was pretty good, but of course I'd be happy to learn of anything better (in performance or cost).

I'd have to say that I'm pretty pleased with the temperature insulation characteristics of the poly. Another MAJOR reason that I used this material was for sound proofing (read reduction) as the barn is close to neighbors houses. This aspect in particular won't work properly until the roof is done, so it's difficult to tell just yet (still plenty of sound leakage).

All comments are most welcome (even if I am painting myself as a nutter - plenty of us on here I'm sure!).

Regards, Brett

I don't have any technical info on polystyrene alone, but for gods sake we build esky's out of the stuff and entrust our sacred beer to it so it must be the best stuff possible, surely? !

It is obviously a very effective insulator as it is used extensively in cold stores/cool rooms/refridgerated goods storage/wineries etc. And it is quite expensive to buy if it is already clad to sheeting.

$250 for the walls of that barn is indeed a very cheap price for that material- you have done well I would say.

[FenceFurniture]

Cheers Banjo. No need for an esky here (1000 metres or 1 kilometre up). Still need a beer holder though: have to stop my fingers sticking to the bottle.

The other reason I used it is because it's so fast and easy to install. Not quite cut to size? No worries, just push a bit harder into the cavity, or a quick trim with a knife.

Brett

[banjoping]

Cheers Banjo. No need for an esky here (1000 metres or 1 kilometre up). Still need a beer holder though: have to stop my fingers sticking to the bottle.

The other reason I used it is because it's so fast and easy to install. Not quite cut to size? No worries, just push a bit harder into the cavity, or a quick trim with a knife.

Brett

Ha, just noticed your location. I lived in NSW for 6 years and Katoomba and surrounds were one of my very favourite places. Almost all my visitors I took out to Katoomba, then bushwalking out to the Ruined Castle. Magic place.

[FenceFurniture]

I see. I'm going to have to look for a brass monkey statue for the garden. I'll have to modify it, however. I'll need to knock it's nads off with a cold chisel (of which I have plenty!) and leave them on the ground at his feet. Perhaps I might glue a thermometer to his hand.

Actually what would be even better would be to glue the nads back on with a special glue to release at about 1 degree celcius. That way I'd know when it's REALLY cold. It would be an absolute crackup if you happened to be watching at the time......."Yep, knew it was cold".

Did you ever get out to see Hanging Rock (20 mins due north foam Blackheath)? It's absolutely awesome out there. In my photography days I took some pics of "Frank" facing OUT from the very edge, and strumming a guitar, supported only by a rope from his back. He said it was the scariest thing he'd ever done. Years later it turned out he is the nephew of my ex-wife's fiancé.

Brett

[Beetle Shirt]

Actually what would be even better would be to glue the nads back on with a special glue to release at about 1 degree celcius. That way I'd know when it's REALLY cold. It would be an absolute crackup if you happened to be watching at the time......."Yep, knew it was cold".


Great idea! Maybe even a graduated set, so they drop at progressively colder temps? You'd make a fortune! :2tsup:

[banjoping]

Did you ever get out to see Hanging Rock (20 mins due north foam Blackheath)? It's absolutely awesome out there. In my photography days I took some pics of "Frank" facing OUT from the very edge, and strumming a guitar, supported only by a rope from his back. He said it was the scariest thing he'd ever done. Years later it turned out he is the nephew of my ex-wife's fiancé.

Brett

Yep, it's awesome isn't it. Just standing there makes you feel special and insignificant in the same breath.
http://www.theage.com.au/ffximage/2007/12/06/bmountains_0612_narrowweb__300x360,0.jpg

[FenceFurniture]

Phew. Finally found what I was looking forAuscape International - Stock Images of the Natural World (http://www.auscape.com.au/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=118367)

This is a very low res image unfortunately. I had three cameras set up and shot numerous rolls of film. About half way through I heard a piteous voice across the valley....."Are you nearly done yet? The ropes stretching". of course I continued shooting...."yeah yeah, won't be long".

Btw it's half a k from him to the valley floor below.

Brett

[I_wanna_Shed]

Phew. Finally found what I was looking forAuscape International - Stock Images of the Natural World (http://www.auscape.com.au/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=118367)

This is a very low res image unfortunately. I had three cameras set up and shot numerous rolls of film. About half way through I heard a piteous voice across the valley....."Are you nearly done yet? The ropes stretching". of course I continued shooting...."yeah yeah, won't be long".

Btw it's half a k from him to the valley floor below.

Brett

BUGGER THAT!!!!! Amazing pic!

[FenceFurniture]

Thanks Wanna. I think I'll have to change my alias to " I want I_wanna_shed's shed". Mine is less than half yours at 5x3 (although I love it's character). Trying to plan for the forecast tool invasion is very circular (and I ain't talkin' saws).

Regards Brett

[banjoping]

Phew. Finally found what I was looking forAuscape International - Stock Images of the Natural World (http://www.auscape.com.au/index.php?module=media&pId=102&id=118367)

This is a very low res image unfortunately. I had three cameras set up and shot numerous rolls of film. About half way through I heard a piteous voice across the valley....."Are you nearly done yet? The ropes stretching". of course I continued shooting...."yeah yeah, won't be long".

Btw it's half a k from him to the valley floor below.

Brett

Geez, that is pretty game. Wouldnt get me to do that for quids.

[RETIRED]

Ok boys and girls, hang a left and bring it back to topic.:wink:

[FenceFurniture]

Yes, sorry Boss. It did veer off a little. All Banjo's fault of course.

INSULATION: I checked a couple of websites from foam sheet producers and it would seem that the foam I used (FL grade) has an R rating of about 2. That would make it significantly less effective than batts and, I presume, wool blankets. But I'd be surprised if the other products had as much sound insulation as the foam (can't find any data).

Brett

[Wolfs]

Banjoping, you seem to be well informed about this topic so here is another question. How do you insulate a metal roller door. I was thinking of using the "bubble wrap" solution since it can be glued to the inside of the door and rolls up with the door. I have tried this with a sample. But I am not sure how effective it would be as an insulation because there is very little air gap, apart from the corrigations in the door itself.

[Harry72]

There's only two ways to bear tin shed's the summer heat of places like Perth(like here 40°+ often), insulate as best as you can and install a refrigerated air con or install a large evap swampy that blows from one end of the shed to the other using a single large outlet... like a wind tunnel gets rid of the dust real quick:D

[Harry72]

Wolfs doesnt work real well, even if you can glue insulation too it the thickness will be too much when its rolled up(modified support brackets are needed if you do).
Plus they have large clearances all the way round, Im sure you can buy air tight roller doors but for the price there are better options.

[FenceFurniture]

Stand two pieces of 70mm poly sheet on their ends, and lean something against them. Easy to undo so you can use the door.:)

Brett

[Lignum]

A couple of quick cheap ways to reduce the inside temp is to install a cheap whirly bird so all the excess heat can escape through the roof, and screw some 75x35mm pine on the roof and west side of the shed, and tack some shade cloth on. It will stop direct sunlight hitting it and still allow air flow.

[Chris Parks]

Following on from Lignum's post the best way to stop a metal roof heating up is to keep the sun off it and then you won't need to insulate it as the roof will be at ambient temperature. Have you seen a tropical roof on a Landrover? one roof over another with an air gap. The air moves and the heat that is generated on the top roof or cover is carried away. It should be easy to do though the cost may be a bit more than insulation but it would beat ripping the roof off hands down. Shade panels on the side with an air gap would also stop the walls heating up as well, these could most probably be shade cloth on timber frames. The roof would definitely be a lot cooler with shade cloth but a second metal roof would be more photogenic.

[Harry72]

IMHO Whirlys are good but they are annoying once they age ticking or squeaking constantly:(
And a wind gust can blow in the rain... just what you want above that nice cast iron ( it would be better to install a proper vented ridge cap

[banjoping]

Banjoping, you seem to be well informed about this topic so here is another question. How do you insulate a metal roller door. I was thinking of using the "bubble wrap" solution since it can be glued to the inside of the door and rolls up with the door. I have tried this with a sample. But I am not sure how effective it would be as an insulation because there is very little air gap, apart from the corrigations in the door itself.

I got nothing. Most of the insulations rely on a decent cavity which is the trick to stopping heat transfer.

[Johncs]

Have a look at post #9 in this thread (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/shed-rises-darn-slowly-125445/). The idea of using the water collected from the roof to cool the roof seems really sensible.

As important as insulation is airflow. Do make sure you can get the prevailing breeze through the shed. Also consider putting a whirlygig extractor on the roof. Getting hot air out pf the shed is important to making a comfortable shed

There's not going to be much water running off the roof between now and April/May in the southwest of WA:rolleyes:

I've just bought a residence in Mandurah, complete with a workshop about 6mx6m, with two rollup doors and a whirlygig.

I am _not_ up to taking the roof off to install insulation, though it is needed.

First thing though is to paint the floor, I have some white paint, just need to organise myself to clean the floor and apply paint. If someone here is licenced and would like to quote on it, that would be welcome.

House needs insulation too.