Decorating Elf

[dr4g0nfly]

Hi folks,

Henry Taylor (http://www.henrytaylortools.co.uk/) has just released a new decorating tool the <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->'Decorating Elf.

Will not have arrivced in your Sunny Climes yet, but one to watch out for.
.
Cheapest Texturing tool on the market by a long way, Videos available on U-Tube, links below;

Video 1
Video 2
Video 3
Video 4

[artme]

Thanks for the heads up on that!:):):)

Any idea of cost?

[dr4g0nfly]

I understand sub £40 - can't guess what that might be in Aus Dollars though.

[Ed Reiss]

What a cool tool !!!

[Ad de Crom]

Amazing, what a nice tool.
Ad

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I want to buy it just for the handle!

The burrs would be nice too, of course, but they're still just dental burrs on steroids. :;

Still, I can think of all sorts of other uses. Rotary Sander, straight off the top of my head.

Or put a small pad on the end so you can use it as a hand-held replacement tailstock for those fiddly occasions where you're not quite sure about the grip but don't want a tailstock in the way. (Small items only, of course. :innocent:)

Wonder if it's worth the $Oz?

[texx]

looks to me like the handle is just some bar stock drilled to take a couple bearings pressed in , if i had a metal lathe it would be easy to make

[TTIT]

:shrug: who needs a new tool :shrug: I'm going out to the shed to give the dremel a workout :; - might even put some power back in the grid if I plug it in :U

[Ed Reiss]

Thanks for the heads up on that!:):):)

Any idea of cost?

Arthur...just made an on-line order for one through Packard Woodworks - $56.00. Am trying to decide if I want to add the spear and cove cutter to the order - $21 bucks a piece.

[texx]

Arthur...just made an on-line order for one through Packard Woodworks - $56.00. Am trying to decide if I want to add the spear and cove cutter to the order - $21 bucks a piece.
i would , may aswell make the post and pak worth while .

[jefferson]

Interesting tool, no question.

But a few questions of my own:

- how do you sharpen the bud and other cutters? (You can with the Sorby TT, quite easily. A different beast and maybe not so versatile with sizes.)

- why such a focus on the "point tool". Would not a skew do the same job? Same for the cove cutter?

- how long will the cutters last on Oz outback timbers like mulga and gidgee?

- how much pressure needs to be applied? Will a jam chuck - say for the lid of a box - suffice?

It will be interesting to hear some user reports from OS to say the least.

[Big Shed]

Jeff, they look like standard carbide burrs used in die grinders for metal working, so they should last a fair while on timber, even hardwood.

http://www.victornet.com/report/Burrs-Carbide-1-4-quot-Shank/337.html

The spear point looks like a bit of round HSS, 6 or 8mm maybe even 10mm, so shouldn't be hard to grind something like that up. The cove cutter likewise.

[jefferson]

Fred - thanks for that. The prices seem pretty reasonable too. :2tsup:

Cooktown Ironwood, here we come! :D Assuming we go OS while the $OZ is high. Any chance of a bulk purchase?

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

looks to me like the handle is just some bar stock drilled to take a couple bearings pressed in , if i had a metal lathe it would be easy to make

Yep. And the rare earth magnet down the bottom.

Oz$56? I don't think I could build one that cheaply. Sounds like a good price. :think:

[Jim Carroll]

Fred those burrs are too fine for woodwork like this you need the ones for cutting aluminium a number 1 cut.

Readily available from carbitool. And they are available in a couple of different sizes.

Would not take much to make these , cutter , bearing and handle.:2tsup:

[Big Shed]

Fred those burrs are too fine for woodwork like this you need the ones for cutting aluminium a number 1 cut.

Readily available from carbitool. And they are available in a couple of different sizes.

Would not take much to make these , cutter , bearing and handle.:2tsup:

I see said the blind man, like these you mean?

Style A-AL 1/4 Shank Cylindrical Carbide Burrs for Aluminum (http://www.victornet.com/report/Burrs-Carbide-1-4-quot-Shank-for-Aluminum/1392.html)

But at those prices it would be way cheaper to buy the Henry Taylor ones.

And, as Skew said, by the time you buy 2 bearings, a rare earth magnet, some brass and make the handle, add the supplied burr, you wouldn't save much, would you?

[Jim Carroll]

That is quite novel fred.


Cheaper to buy than make something must be wrong

[Frank&Earnest]

Two questions, the first practical, the second philosophical, just to be true to form. :D

I have just assassinated a flexible shaft, the bit that goes into the mandrel gave up, but the handle is intact. IMHO, if I just cut the shaft at the end of the handle, the handle itself would take whatever burr and do exactly what this tool does. Correct? He who has never killed a flexible shaft can cast the first stone.:wink:.

Second question: Is this really "decoration"? I would call it at most texturing. Less creative than purposeful sanding. :D

[Jim Carroll]

So frank what is the difference between decorating and texturing .

Are they both the same just different ways of saying the same thing.

So what will I do today will I decorate this peice with a bit of texturing or should I just texture the peice to give it a bit of feature.

[Big Shed]

I think that may be a philosophical question Jim:rolleyes:

[Frank&Earnest]

That's right, Jim, I did not want it to be a philological question. :)

[Jim Carroll]

That's right, Jim, I did not want it to be a philological question. :)

Now Frank no need to swear :D

[RETIRED]

That's right, Jim, I did not want it to be a philological question. :)I think you mean semantics Frank.

[Frank&Earnest]

I think you mean semantics Frank.

Too narrow, . I agree though that the English usage of the word philology as a synonym for linguistics is philologically... interesting. :wink:

I am enjoying this discussion about turning. And twisting. :D

[Big Shed]

Glad someone is:doh:

Seems more like a thread hi-jack to me, but there you go.

[Jim Carroll]

Glad someone is:doh:

Seems more like a thread hi-jack to me, but there you go.

Ditto:rolleyes:

[Frank&Earnest]

Glad someone is:doh:

Seems more like a thread hi-jack to me, but there you go.

:D..........:2tsup:

[Ed Reiss]

Play nice now lads, or Santa may just forget where you live :o:D:D:D

[HithNibth]

Dead flexi shafts not-with-standing. I think I might give it a go. Decorating (or not) some work using the Dremel cylinder, ball and cone cutters that is :). They look like mini versions of the Elf and I do work in miniature - so why not! My idea is to define the bit I want to decorate/indent/ruin and let the cutter run freely in the flexi hand piece - without turning the Dremel power on. If I get anything like a result I'll let you know. :roll::no::roll:

Bri

[bowl-basher]

:D:D:D
Bit the Bullet and got one through Packards in the USA good service and it arrived in 10 days
I am still playing but think it will be a useful tool
This was a bit of green camphor the base I am happy with and it looks a neat way to to finish off
The lip is a different kettle of fish it is extremly hard not to get chipping on a lip this narrow I think the wall would need to be another 5 mm thick to accept this type of decoration. But I am still playing with it
Next trial will be a band about 15mm wide on the lip of a burl platter
Regards
Bowl-Basher

[Ed Reiss]

Looks like you did well with the tool, BB...I've been too damn busy being lazy to try mine out, but hopefully will do as well as you or mybe even better:q:D

[wheelinround]

BB nice work

Like the concept of the tool not new though.

Bits are available even in Bunnies or McJings bearings there also good bit of aussie hardwood and :2tsup:

[HithNibth]

Looks good BB! The cutters seem to cut a nice, distinct pattern. Your Dremel idea works too Frank&Ern. My first go was like watercolour painting when I was a kid - The more I did - the worse it looked. I used a piece of 1" ramin dowel (from old ladder rungs). The Dremel cutters did make a pattern but not as clear as yours BB. I dyed it with a paint pen, added liming wax and stood back to look at the mess :no:. I quickly turned it into a mini plant pot. I'll paint it with Terra Cotta acrylic (when I find the paint). Then I'll have another go with the Dremel. Photo next time (good result or bad).

Bri

[bowl-basher]

:D:D
tried it out on a red gum platter and I think I am going to like this little devil
Bowl-basher

[Ed Reiss]

:2tsup::2tsup: