Stud spacing for shed fit out

[creature100]

Hi there i am in the process of planning for a fit out of my existing shed for office space. I need to construct an internal wall on the side that is not bordered by existing shed walls. My question is in regards to the spacing of the studs. I have read a few threads on this (and other pages) that suggest a spacing of both 450mm and 600mm. I am planning on using plasterboard to sheet with which is 1200mm wide so the 600mm spacing makes sense to me in that each sheet would start and finish on a stud. Why do others suggest using a 450mm spacing when it appears that this configuration would not line up with beginnings and ends of sheets.
Would appreciate any advice on this topic.
Cheers,
Craig

[mic-d]

plasterboard is nearly always laid horizontally, two 1200 sheets fit nicely to a 2400 ceiling. I'd be doing it with 450mm centres and lay the sheets horizontally. Won't be enough width in one stud to run a join down the stud and nail both edges to it and it leaves very little leeway for error in plumb on the stud.
Cheers
Michael

[creature100]

Oh ok but i still dont get how 450mm centres laying sheets horizontally allows for each end of the sheet to be fixed to a stud? I thought that joins in plasterboard had to be over a stud tpo prevent movement? Where am i going wrong? I have done a bit of plastering before on existing walls but never paid much attention to the spacing. Thanks in advance for your help.

[mic-d]

Oh ok but i still dont get how 450mm centres laying sheets horizontally allows for each end of the sheet to be fixed to a stud? I thought that joins in plasterboard had to be over a stud tpo prevent movement? Where am i going wrong? I have done a bit of plastering before on existing walls but never paid much attention to the spacing. Thanks in advance for your help.

you buy sheet lengths that are longer than the room. You can get sheets up to 6m long. They're a bit hard to manage without a few mates. You might have to put in a butt joint over one of the studs. Nail another stud to that one to give more bearing surface for the joint.

Cheers
Michael

[Gezawa]

Hello Craig
The size of stud spacings is dependant on the load of weight the walls are holding. Generally we use 600mm stud spacing in single brick homes. If you are designing an office[in an existing building] it would be smart to make it around dementions that fit into the general building code as well as the material you can buy locally. This will save on wastage. Sheets on walls usually go from corner to corner hotizontally unless the room is over 6 meters, then the sheets are staggered.
Hope this helps.
Cheers Gerry

[creature100]

Ok thanks everybody it makes more sense now. I didnt realise you could get 6m lengths. Makes life alot easier.
Will post some pics as i go.
Cheers
Craig

[Bob38S]

If you know of or plan to do any hanging on this wall - put in the appropriate nogging at the required heights for supports - a little late to do it afterwards and the cost is negligible in the overall scheme of things.

[banjoping]

As per above, rows of noggings at known spacings from the ground allow you to hang hooks or other items without having to use a stud-finder.

[Astrodog]

As per above, rows of noggings at known spacings from the ground allow you to hang hooks or other items without having to use a stud-finder.

Take photos of walls before you line them, great for finding noggings, studs and power cables later on...... also - noggings on edge give a wider target for fixing to, and allow cabling to be slipped past....

[creature100]

Great advice i wouldnt of thought of that. I have another question (will be another of many im sure).
The shed slab is pretty uneven in parts so i was planning on installing a sub-floor on top of which i am going to put down a floating timber floor. Any advice on putting together the framing for this floor would be greatlky appreciated.

For example what is the best way to attach floor joists to cement slab? Dyna bolting each one seem excessive.

I have noticed in other shed fit outs that the frame work for the sub-floor consists of a series of joists running in a single direction with no perpendicular supports. Is this correct?

Is there a particular spacing that i need to be aware of? I plan to lay green tounge particle board over the frame before the floating timber floor goes down. So do i just allow for spacing to accomodate the width of the particle board in terms of joins?

Sorry for all the questions....trying to get this right!!
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Craig

[Jim Grant]

Hi,
If your concrete floor is uneven then it's important to level the floor joists otherwise your sub floor will be uneven as well. I would lay a perimeter joist along all four sides and one they are joined together make sure they form a level rectangle. I use chopped up plastic cutting boards for this as they are cheap from the $2 shops. Once that is level then the remianing floor joists can be inserted into this rectangle and I would go for spacing of no more than 450mm as weight in a shed can build up very quickly. Make sure you pack all the joists at the high points otherwise you will have the floor bouncing. The more crosswise supports (noggins) you can add the better. The sheeting should be screwed down rather than nailed.
Hope this helps.

[creature100]

Thanks for all the advice so far. I have got the sub-floor down and have most of the framing up for the walls. I will post a few pics soon. I am starting to look at what is needed for the ceiling and am aware that i need to consider condensation in the ceiling space. Could someone please give me some advice on what is the best product/method to address this issue. I have heard of ceiling paper, How is this applied and where is it available?
Thanks in advance.

[beer is good]

Hi Creature,
Before you fix the plasterboard, have a think about using MDF or chipboard. Gyprock dents easily and is messy when cutting and flush jointing. The advantage of wood is that it is easy to put up shelves or bang in a few screws or nails where you need them, rather than where the studs are. Gyprock might be cheaper, but keep an eye out for second grade timber. People like Laminex use chipboard to protect the sheets while in transit and sell them off cheap. I the budget will allow, put insulation in first.

Good luck

[Bob38S]

When working in a garage [finished in Gyprock] before I built my shed I bought and attached some Hardiplank [non asbestos I'm assured] at the back of the benches - never a problem with damaged Gyprock - just a thought.

[creature100]

I have attached a few pics of progress so far.

[cookie48]

Goooooooooly. That is looking great. What sort of lighting you putting in? I put down lights in mine.

[Bob38S]

My shed has fixed lights but I also use "running lights" which allows me to position the light exactly where I want/need them.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/running-light-31181/#post298853