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Christos
27th April 2011, 06:00 PM
I picked this up from one of the members of the forum.

168297

From the photo you can see that it came with parts :) but no motor. Does not really concern me at this stage as I want to see if I can get this cleaned up and at least spinning.

168298168299


168300

I started by cleaning up a space in the garage where I could move around. More clean up around the work area is really something that I should get too. Ah well in time.

The first thing that I looked at was to get the lathe spinning. One part removed and it was turning but hitting the side of the case. No grub screws so sprayed WD40 around the area and tapped it lightly. it is now not hitting the side.

tea lady
27th April 2011, 06:45 PM
Pretty! But isn't your head stock at the wrong end? :think: Or put your banjos around the other way and stand on the other side! :cool::)

wheelinround
27th April 2011, 07:14 PM
Nice another WiP from Christos :2tsup:

Lots of elbow grease required, a bit of paint remover, a can or 3 of spray paint a motor and then we'll welcome you into the grand ole secret society of woodwakers President Pat Head Wacker.:U

Sawdust Maker
27th April 2011, 07:39 PM
Christos
You'll be making pens in no time :D

sjm
27th April 2011, 07:51 PM
The gap between the heastock and the ways is interesting. I guess it allows larger platters to be turned, but it makes it more difficult to get closer to small things like finials.

thompy
28th April 2011, 01:54 AM
Pretty! But isn't your head stock at the wrong end? :think: Or put your banjos around the other way and stand on the other side! :cool::)

i agree, but looks to me like the lower shelf used to have the motor on the other end (mounting holes), perhaps someone put the lathe to base on backwards? Is there a void in the top shelf to allow the belt to run through to below?

Neal.

Sawdust Maker
28th April 2011, 08:56 AM
Headstock - wrong end v back to front
can't really tell, I thought the belt showing out the back for safety reasons??

Christos

can you take another piccy of the headstock but from the other side? and a few more of the headstock details.

Thanks

tea lady
28th April 2011, 09:41 AM
The gap between the heastock and the ways is interesting. I guess it allows larger platters to be turned, but it makes it more difficult to get closer to small things like finials.My tough has a gap like that, and one of 's (the wadkin I think:think: ) also has a gap.

BobL
28th April 2011, 10:48 AM
Nice Score Christos, :2tsup: looks like you need an electrolysis setup.

see http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/electrolysis-using-old-computer-power-supply-134107/

artme
28th April 2011, 02:50 PM
That should come up well Christos!! Good score!:2tsup:

Headstock is right end ; just need to photograph it from the other side and turn the toolrest Banjo around!.

Christos
28th April 2011, 06:53 PM
The photo is actually from the back of the lathe. Maybe I should have taken the photo from the front not to cause so much concern. :rolleyes:

I did start by putting the tool rest and it's mating component into a bucket of citrix acid. I took this out of the bath this afternoon and clean it with running water in the back yard. Dried it off with a clean cloth, then gave it a rub down with some sand paper and WD40 as lubricant. :) After that I sprayed this with G-15 and another rub down then covered these parts with a cloth to keep the dust off.

I will take more photos of this lathe next time I am in the garage.

This is a Hyco Lathe that I am attempting to get working, picture from original post.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f231/163230d1299230869t-hyco-wood-lathe-needs-reno-04032011687.jpg (http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f231/163230d1299230869-hyco-wood-lathe-needs-reno-04032011687.jpg)

picture from original post.

Groggy
28th April 2011, 07:57 PM
Nice looking lathe, I like the old stuff as it has a bit of weight to it. Sounds like you are doing a great job so far. :2tsup:

Christos
30th April 2011, 08:59 PM
As mention I have taken a photo of the tool rest and it mating support.

168614

Along with this I managed to clean up the little bits and pieces that have some signs of rust. :cl: I placed these in the citric acid solution that I originally used with the tool rest and gave them the same treatment that I did with the tool rest. As these are not needed until the final stages I have placed them in with the tool rest.

My attention now turned to the tailstock and its associated parts. As I am not sure what the internal threaded bar is called, so please bear with me in regards to this misunderstanding. I undid the screws and the handle came apart along with the internal bar. I could see quite a bit of rust inside along with what I am thinking is built up of grease.

The handle and main body of the tail stock was placed into the citric acid.

168615

The threaded bar was cleaned up with kero and an old tooth brush. The grease came off quite easy using this process.

I now moved to the headstock of the lathe. I am going to need a motor and with that I am going to need a v-belt and attaching this I came to the conclusion that I am have to take the headstock apart.

After thinking about this for a few minutes (hours?) and making WD40 my friend I managed to remove the middle bar. It did take a long time to come out but after a bath in the kero it looks a little better. Placed the bar in with the tool rest. :D

Now here comes the fun part. Going shopping for parts. :2tsup:

I need to get some grub screws for this
168621

As something tells me that I should not really depend on dried oil to keep things stable. :rotfl:

I also needed to get new enclosed bearings for the seized up ones on the bandsaw, so I ended up going to Hooper bearings today. They did not have grub screws and suggested another company that I might try. While I was there they called them and found out that today they were doing a stock take. Saved me a trip.

Sawdust Maker
30th April 2011, 09:08 PM
Christos

looking at the last piccy

I'm wondering whether there has been too much wear from the v belt the make the pulleys almost past their use by date?

Christos
30th April 2011, 09:32 PM
Christos

lookig at the last piccy

I'm wondering whether there has been too much wear from the v belt the make the pulleys almost past their use by date?

As this is my first lathe that I have had real contact with since leaving high school I am not sure as to what I should be looking at. It is always good to have a backup plan when coming across something new. And yes I do have a backup plan. :roll:

That's because of my highly technical and advance brain. :roflmao2:

wheelinround
30th April 2011, 10:52 PM
As this is my first lathe that I have had real contact with since leaving high school I am not sure as to what I should be looking at. It is always good to have a backup plan when coming across something new. And yes I do have a backup plan. :roll:

That's because of my highly technical and advance brain. :roflmao2:

Back up plan he'll buy a new lathe :U

Christos well done with the citric acid would you like more metal to clean up :rolleyes:

I might have missed it but hope you have coated the bare metal ASAP with something even if its Grey Primer.

Pulleys look fine Christos bit of steel wool will sort them out. Belt get a link type belt http://www.woodcraft.com/images/articles/belt1.jpg

Ross
1st May 2011, 08:14 AM
A girly pink belt? Not on a real mans lathe.

Ross

Sawdust Maker
1st May 2011, 10:41 AM
...

Pulleys look fine Christos bit of steel wool will sort them out. Belt get a link type belt

Now I've had a closer look, Ray's right. I at first thought there had been some wear ie groving on them. Those link belts are supposed to be very smooth running.


A girly pink belt? Not on a real mans lathe.

Ross

Christos needs to get closer to his feminine side :wink:

Christos
1st May 2011, 11:04 AM
Christos well done with the citric acid would you like more metal to clean up :rolleyes:


Not at the present moment. :)



I might have missed it but hope you have coated the bare metal ASAP with something even if its Grey Primer.


At present I have only done the G-15 spray. I am trusting that this will be enought until I get to the next step. Also gives me some time to look at how this spray holds up.

artme
1st May 2011, 08:32 PM
OK,OK, OK! I must have had one long senior moment since posting about this lathe.

I cannot see how that is the back of the lathe!!:no:

Never seen a mollydooka's lathe, so I automatically assumed that this is a "conventional" lathe photographed from the back,

In the words of a certain politician, "please explain">:D

Christos
1st May 2011, 09:23 PM
As far as I am aware this is a standard lathe. I think the motor would sit in this location as circled in red.

168704

Should confirm that I did take the photo from the rear of the lathe and the tool rest along with all the other pieces are just sitting on the lathe.:roll:

wheelinround
1st May 2011, 09:29 PM
spot on :2tsup:

artme
1st May 2011, 10:47 PM
Finally the senior moment has passed!!!:-:-:-

thompy
1st May 2011, 11:03 PM
Not such a senior moment Artme, a few of us i think were thinking (me included) the motor mounted to the lower shelf where the four holes are with the pulley running up under the centre of the headstock, and that the lathe had been repositioned wrong way or the shelf put on reversed. I knew the pic was from the rear of the lathe however until i saw the last pic circled i didn't get it either.

Neal

Christos
6th May 2011, 09:02 PM
As mention earlier I took the head stock apart to get grub screws for the pulley.

I have been cleaning the bed of the lathe when time permits, it has been slow progress but getting there.

I have been thinking what type of motor would best be used for this lathe? I have checked the drive shaft and found that the thickness of the drive shaft is 25 millimeters (1 inch).

artme
6th May 2011, 09:53 PM
Seems only right to equip the beast with EVS. It will stll be a remarkably inexpensive but solid lathe.

wheelinround
6th May 2011, 10:00 PM
Christos how many threads per inch is the chuck end of the shaft. No bearing on motor size.

A VS motor sound good less changing of belts.

Christos
7th May 2011, 10:53 AM
I managed to clean up the bed of the lathe there is some pitting from the rust but not that I am going to be concern at this moment.

169111


I have taken a photos of the disassambled head stock and drive shaft.

169110 169112


And a couple of photos of the thread in millimeters and inches.

169109169108

Going by inches there are 7 threads per inch.

Pac man
7th May 2011, 11:01 AM
Dont know where you are in Sydney but there is a woodworking club that has the same one of these hyco lathes in working order.

Contact details can be found in this post (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f47/new-clubcumberland-woodworkers-inc-78927/)

wheelinround
7th May 2011, 11:14 AM
Christos think you'll find thats 8tpi not 7 here in lies a problem recently I know of a few turners who have tried to get hold of inserts for the 1x8tpi shafts to fit chucks both Nova and Vicmarc they are hard to come by.

Might pay to upgrade the shaft to a 1x10tpi or 30x3.5mm or an adaptor Vermec if he is at the STWWshow he might have some available.

Restoration looks like its going well.

What is your colour choice for the respray ??

Sawdust Maker
7th May 2011, 09:09 PM
I'm sure Enzo will be in Sydney

Contact him to bring down what you need

Christos
8th May 2011, 09:45 AM
Dont know where you are in Sydney but there is a woodworking club that has the same one of these hyco lathes in working order.

Contact details can be found in this post (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f47/new-clubcumberland-woodworkers-inc-78927/)

I am in the eastern suburbs.



Might pay to upgrade the shaft to a 1x10tpi or 30x3.5mm or an adaptor Vermec if he is at the STWWshow he might have some available.

Now that's something I did not know. I will have more questions in regards to this.


What is your colour choice for the respray ??

This I have not given much thought on.


I'm sure Enzo will be in Sydney

Contact him to bring down what you need

Not sure who Enzo is. :o

wheelinround
8th May 2011, 10:09 AM
Enzo is Vermec (http://vermec.tripod.com/index.html)

This is the adaptor Christos http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/spindleadaptor.pdf

Pat
8th May 2011, 11:21 AM
Carbatec shows 1*8tpi inserts available for both Teknatool and Vicmarc chucks. Enzo would have them too. Depends on how much play money after finishing the restoration, that you have to spend on chucks.

I second the powertwist belts, especially to reduce the amount of power lose from smaller motors.

wheelinround
8th May 2011, 12:10 PM
Carbatec shows 1*8tpi inserts available for both Teknatool and Vicmarc chucks. Enzo would have them too. Depends on how much play money after finishing the restoration, that you have to spend on chucks.

I second the powertwist belts, especially to reduce the amount of power lose from smaller motors.

Posted when Pat came in to get a band-aid now he's got blood on the keyboard too :p

Carba-tech is where the two fellows tried well besides Trend and H&F's :no:

Christos
8th May 2011, 08:42 PM
Here are the extra question that I said that I would have.

But before that I think that I will confirm that I will stick with the existing drive shaft of 25mm (1 inch). There are a total of three drive bearings that are in the head stock for the drive shaft. Two next to each other in towards the lathe bed and one on the outside. It does look like I should have four in total as there is a space for this looking inside the head stock.

Now knowing this extra information would three bearings be enough? What type of horse powered motor should I be looking at for this lathe with a drive shaft of 25mm? Where would someone be able to get such a motor?

On the other side should I go an swap to a thicker drive shaft and change all the bearings. How can this be swapped out as it does not seem to be locked in by mechnical means?

RETIRED
8th May 2011, 10:49 PM
Here are the extra question that I said that I would have.

But before that I think that I will confirm that I will stick with the existing drive shaft of 25mm (1 inch). That is strong enough unless you want to take my job.
There are a total of three drive bearings that are in the head stock for the drive shaft. Two next to each other in towards the lathe bed and one on the outside. It does look like I should have four in total as there is a space for this looking inside the head stock. Yes most lathes these days have only 2. One inboard and one outboard on the headstock.
I think they may have come out with a single at the outboard side.
When buying new bearings take the old ones with you, they will probably be imperial, not metric.

Now knowing this extra information would three bearings be enough? Yes.

What type of horse powered motor should I be looking at for this lathe with a drive shaft of 25mm? Where would someone be able to get such a motor? 1 HP will be more than sufficient. See my reply in the Woodfast thread.

On the other side should I go an swap to a thicker drive shaft and change all the bearings. How can this be swapped out as it does not seem to be locked in by mechnical means?I personally wouldn't bother if the shaft is in good nick.

wheelinround
9th May 2011, 10:09 AM
Christos has answered well

The shaft does not need to be thicker 1" is ideal its the TPI thats the problem or can be with as I said inserts to suit the chucks. Thats why I said about getting hold of an adaptor from Vermec/Enzo. This makes it a lot easier on you with face plates, chucks or anything else you might/will apquire.
A whole shaft replacement would be ideal or one being made to suit.

Paul39
13th May 2011, 11:38 AM
Christos think you'll find thats 8tpi not 7 here in lies a problem recently I know of a few turners who have tried to get hold of inserts for the 1x8tpi shafts to fit chucks both Nova and Vicmarc they are hard to come by.

Interesting, in the US 1 X 8 tpi is common as dirt. I found 1 X 8 nuts at the local farm store for my Delta, ordered 1 1/4 X 8 for the Woodfast and 33 X 3.5 mm for the German Hegner from a fastener place. I use the nuts to make face plates and hand wheels.

Lovely stout lathe, it should serve you well.

Look for a surplus 3 phase motor and buy a variable frequency drive. I bought a $15 slightly used 1 HP 3 phase 120 volt motor from a scrap yard and a $140 Teco VFD. This runs on my 120 volt single phase house current.
Google variable frequency drive for more information.

See also: FM50 Series Sub-micro AC Drive 1/4 to 3HP (http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.13/.f)

I am sure you can find a VFD for your local voltage.

pommyphil
13th May 2011, 06:33 PM
My old MC1100 was inch X 8tpi and then I got the Vicmarc and changed the chucks over, Probably 4 inserts gathering dust if they would help ? cost of postage ? PM me.

Cheers Phil

Christos
16th May 2011, 09:17 PM
I spend some time on the restore this weekend. Just cleaning off the rust from the smaller parts. It has been very slow progress as you would expect having so much rust of the stand. So I started to take it apart and found that from cutting the bolts or shear force it came apart dead easy. :rofl:

There is some pitting on the bottom shelf and top shelf where the lathe was sitting but not so too much. I would guess about less then half a mill of pitting from the rust. The shelfs are made from what I think is 3 mill thick steel so that does not have to be replaced. Now the fun part begins with the removal of the rust.

What would be the best way of removal of rust with out loosing too much thickness?

As to the motor I have come to the conclusion that I will be getting the following, CMG 1HP 240V Electric Motor. Now that I have come up with a specific motor that has a capacity of 1410rpm I now have to come up with a pulley that will work with the existing V-belt pulley and produce something close to what would have been original speeds. Of which I have no idea. :B

Peoples opions are welcomed.

thompy
16th May 2011, 11:38 PM
Homemade Penetrating Oil | eHow.com (http://www.ehow.com/way_5916365_homemade-penetrating-oil.html) (not used this myself, yet, however i plan to, thought it might be of interest to you or others)

or

some sort of commercial penetrant oil or solution (wd-40 / rp-7/ inox/ etc.) the night before even a few days before might help for any bolts nuts or screws as yet undone. couple things to watch, heating a small ammount pre apply can help (not oxy type, but more like leaving it in the sun a while) and some use a silicone base that can affect a later paint application.

or

http://www.jamiesulc.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/sledgehammerman.jpg


:U Its a labour of love mate, i'm following with interest and i hope it all goes well.

Neal.

wheelinround
16th May 2011, 11:38 PM
Christos pulleys will be same size but in reverse :U Pulley And Belt Information Calculator (http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html)

http://www.technologystudent.com/gears1/pulley2.htm

Rust removal sandblast 1st choice, 80g sanding disc 2nd choice, hard wire brush 3rd choice used on drill or grinder hand held.

Christos
17th May 2011, 05:25 PM
I guess I am trying to get my thinking along this line. As this is the first time that I have ever tried to clean up a lathe it is a very steep learning curve. I know this for certain I would not have attempted this if it was not for this website.

So I guess I might be taking the pulley with me everywhere I go to get the same size pulley.

Go into one shop and tell them that I have a pulley in the back pack. :U

wheelinround
17th May 2011, 05:56 PM
I guess I am trying to get my thinking along this line. As this is the first time that I have ever tried to clean up a lathe it is a very steep learning curve. I know this for certain I would not have attempted this if it was not for this website.

So I guess I might be taking the pulley with me everywhere I go to get the same size pulley.

Go into one shop and tell them that I have a pulley in the back pack. :U


Christos good idea BUT the shaft for the top is different to the shaft size on the motor so best take motor too..........oh and Bigger back pack.:U

Christos
17th May 2011, 06:23 PM
Ah ha I am ahead of you on this one.

The plan is to purchase the motor first. :q

wheelinround
17th May 2011, 06:33 PM
Christos thats what I figured thats why I said take the motor with you :roll:

Paul39
18th May 2011, 09:05 AM
(http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/20206-christos/)Christos,

My method of derusting and painting is to use muriatic acid cut with 3 parts of water, soak until rust comes off, wash in hot water, and immediately apply metal prep containing phosphoric acid. Let thoroughly dry and paint.

Gray wallboard screws have the phosphoric acid treatment.

Light rusting comes off with a soak in straight white vinegar, you might want to try that first. It takes weeks, but it will dissolve thick rust. Heat speeds the process.

I have also used dilute sulfuric acid. I left a piece of rusty auto sheet metal overnight. I pulled out a piece of lacework.

The muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) cuts the rust without hurting the good metal. It is used in swimming pools to adjust pH and by masons to remove mortar that has gotten on bricks. It will dissolve concrete. Use a plastic container and when you are through add baking soda to neutralize, when the solution quits fizzing add a little more and stir.

The phosphoric acid makes the steel or iron very grabby to paint.

The flat shelves might respond to white vinegar (acetic acid) and a scrub brush followed by a hot water rinse and metal prep.

Once you have everything covered with wood chips, curlys, sanding dust, and danish oil, the paint is not so important.

BobL
18th May 2011, 10:08 AM
.
.
.
The muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) cuts the rust without hurting the good metal.
.
.


This is not correct. If a shiny plane blade with a rust spots is placed into muriatic acid it will remove the rust but it will make the shiny part of the blade a dull grey. This clearly demonstrates the muriatic acid will dissolved away the iron just as quickly as the rust.

The problem is compounded if the rust has oil or other gunk embedded in it since it is impossible to clean. Then the metal will definitely be eaten away faster than the oily rust.

Phosphoric acid does not remove rust but converts it to iron phosphate but it will still slowly dissolve a thin layer of good metal. Since this method does not remove rust if the original rusty surface is lumpy it leaves a lumpy surface but a small bonus is it leaves and pits full of rust looking less pit like.

All this is why electrolysis is a safer method for rsut

Paul39
18th May 2011, 11:07 AM
Phosphoric acid does not remove rust but converts it to iron phosphate but it will still slowly dissolve a thin layer of good metal. Since this method does not remove rust if the original rusty surface is lumpy it leaves a lumpy surface but a small bonus is it leaves and pits full of rust looking less pit like.

All this is why electrolysis is a safer method for rsut

BobL,

If you will reread my post, you will find that I advocate a metal prep containing phosphoric acid to be used after muriatic or acetic acid to make the paint stick better.

I would use metal prep before painting after wire brushing, sanding, grinding or electrolysis as well.

I have seen many accounts of electrolysis with photos. It appears to work quite well, I have not tried it.

BobL
18th May 2011, 11:13 AM
BobL,

If you will reread my post, you will find that I advocate a metal prep containing phosphoric acid to be used after muriatic or acetic acid to make the paint stick better.
OK - I agree with (and I also do) that

I humid weather I find the phosphoric acid takes some time to dry. If the piece is small enough after the black iron phosphate has developed I sometimes put the piece in a BBQ oven on low heat to dry for about half an hour. The colour changes from blue-black to grey flakes that helped with a wire brush will flake off leaving a smoother surface than just air drying. Paint still seems to stick to it quite nicely.

Christos
18th May 2011, 08:46 PM
The smaller pieces were relative easy to clean and the L shape brackets again easy to clean as there was not a great deal of rust. The shelfs are what is concerning as the amount of pitting at some areas is quite interesting and as mention about half a mill deep. You guys have given me some thought on what to try will see what I can come up with on the weekend.

Given time everything is possible. :doh: So how much time?

Paul39
19th May 2011, 02:02 AM
Given time everything is possible. :doh: So how much time?

Depends on what you enjoy most, refurbishing a lathe to pristine condition, or turning.

I would put a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper on a wood block and sand until the high spots are shiney, then puddle your favorite rust dissolver on it for a while, rinse and brush on some metal prep, wipe, dry, & paint.

As I said above, once you get a layer of chips and sanding dust on it, you won't notice.

Almost all of the lathes I have seen used by serious bowl turners look pretty disgusting, as they, and I, apply sanding sealer and oil finish while the bowl is on the lathe.

I do put a newspaper on the bed but some does get on things, especially if you apply oil and rub it in while the lathe is running.

I will admit to being a messy person.

I am the third owner of the Hegner below, The previous owner had it for 6 years and turned one 12 inch long spindle. The lathe was like new and pretty when I bought it.

I do vacuum after each session so I can find my tools, toggle bars, bits of sandpaper etc.

Christos
22nd May 2011, 08:15 PM
This weekend has seen me spend a little bit of time on the rust removal of one of the shelfs.

What I ended up doing to get rid of the rust was borrow a friends angle grinder and get my self one of those Brumby Strip-it Disc from one of the large hardware stores. Actually I ended up purchasing quite a bit of items to try and only when I got to the Strip-it disc did I get to the embedded rust. :2tsup:

Cleaned off the dust and gave this one quick coat of Galmet's Spraypaint Primer. I checked with the retail outlet and they said that it only comes in one size, 350g. I know that I am going to need a lot more cans.

I also wanted to pickup a 1 hp motor and went out to Hare and Forbes. First time out there and yes I did take the wrong turn. :roll: The actual time to purchase the item was about 10 minutes but the actual time that I spend in the store would have been more like 30 to 40 minutes :o as there was so much to see. I stuck to my plan and picked up the motor. Originally I asked one friend to come along but he was working so he missed out this time. :q

One question to the sales person what was the size of the drive shaft and he mention 5/8 of an inch. They did not have a pulley but did supply another contact / company. I tried calling but no answer so I guess they do not work on the Saturdays.

wheelinround
22nd May 2011, 09:31 PM
So close yet so far Christos.

H&F's is a wonderfull store and you only spent 40mins your lucky to have got out with just what you needed. Hope you got a FREE catalogue :U

Have ye yet been to McJings me boy Aladins Cave it is 40mins would soon turn into 3 times that.

Christos
23rd May 2011, 01:42 PM
Have not been to McJings only been able to get a few little bits from the wood show in Sydney. :U

Christos
27th May 2011, 03:17 PM
I think that is is always good to see pictures as they tell a thousand words and sometimes I do not feel like writing a thousand words. :U

One of the shelves have been cleaned and given a coat of primer.

171241


This is the before picture of the second shelf and it has a lot more rust but looks more like surface rust. Mainly because I am not able to push or bend the metal.

171242


I also cleaned one of the legs and took a picture next to one that has not been done yet. There is only a small amount on the legs and I think giving them a once over with some sandpaper would be fine but then again quicker with the angle grinder and the strip it disk.

171243

Sawdust Maker
27th May 2011, 03:32 PM
I reckon those photos came to about 780 words :)

Paul39
28th May 2011, 02:38 AM
Christos,

GREAT WORK! You are getting closer.

Christos
29th May 2011, 08:22 PM
This part of the post is specifically for Sawdust Maker. :)

Here is the picture of the 1hp motor.

171460


This part of the post is for the rest of the world that is currently following this work in progress (that includes Sawdust Maker :harhar:)

I managed to pick up a pulley on Friday from Lewis Pulleys for the shaft of the 1 hp motor that I picked up last week.

171461


I can leave it here but I think that I should share a little more. This was the first time that I have ever been to Lewis Pulleys. I normally tell people to be aware of your surrounding and when you are walking you learn and discover a lot easier. The street that Lewis Pulleys is located is one street that I drive along quite frequently and sometimes gotten stuck in traffic on that street.

I have even seen their name (Lewis Pulleys) when in the car and it never occurred to me that Lewis Pulleys might have the item that I needed, until I received directions from another business. :roll:

So now I have three new businesses that are etch in my brain as a result of this restore.

And I did pickup one of their calanders. :U

Sawdust Maker
29th May 2011, 08:49 PM
And it has been noted that you didn't bring the calendar to the gtg today :q

That would have to be one of the sexiest motors I think I've ever seen
thanks for posting :2tsup:

wheelinround
29th May 2011, 09:25 PM
Now thats kinky Nick and worse from Christos for feeding it.

Nice motor hope the price was right. Pulleys look cool well machined, have you worked out ratio, speeds etc.

Oh you forgot better photo of the motor mount so we/I can help you sort that out. Welder here if needed.:2tsup: Oh diameter of rods required.

Christos
5th June 2011, 08:20 PM
This weekend has allowed me to use electrolysis on some of the curved parts of legs (under the foot). As this was the first time that I have done anything in regards to this type of rust removal I originally set this up on Thursday morning to see what will happen.

The battery charger that I have does not allow to be use with out a battery attached.
172277

The automatic settings do not allow the charger to start even when selecting manual.

So I put on a battery in series with the charger and tired it. It works little bubbles started to form.

172276

Turned off the power and headed to work. The battery had enough charge to continue with the process and on Saturday morning I found one piece cleaned. :U

The remaining three legs were done over the weekend.

172275

wheelinround
5th June 2011, 09:17 PM
shocking life back into it eh Christos

:2tsup: so will it all be together for your demonstrations at SWWS:q

rusel
9th June 2011, 09:44 PM
Christos
I am over the moon to see the old lathe you got of me has gone to a home where there is plenty of TLC.
You look to be doing a top notch job. As I said when you pick it up, If you need any bits made up let me know but it looks as if you are getting plenty of help here. Keep it coming guys and girls.
You may think your having fun now wait till you hit the start button, Which does not look to fur off now.
Again may the chips fly for a long time too come :2tsup:

Russell

Christos
20th June 2011, 08:22 PM
Today I had a day off and was able to get back into the shed. Very cold this morning but still got into cleaning up the final bits from the electrolysis.

The rinsing just had to be done with some light sanding despite the cold hands. Once dried off with the rag I went and got the hairdryer to get this ready for the primer.

Then I started back on the actual lathe to see what loose bits of paint would flake off. Previously I did not coat it with primer as just stripped it back to the original primer level. I took the head stock off the bed and worked on them separately. Taped up the bed with blue tape and gave it a coat of primer. Same treatment with the head stock and covered the holes and bearings as I did not want to clean those later. :;

I do have one question that has been bugging me a little and that is should I give it a coat of paint or just leave the primer as the final coat? What are peoples thoughts?

Sawdust Maker
20th June 2011, 09:01 PM
If it's pink primer, I'd advise you to leave it :p

RETIRED
20th June 2011, 10:20 PM
Coat of paint. Primer generally is not a sealing coat and will allow rust to form.

wheelinround
20th June 2011, 11:14 PM
:whs:

Paint it so its not going to annoy the heck out of you Christos a nice hammer Tone Blue would look good. Or this colour (http://photos.fillmorepedal.com/images/A_3/6/5/1/61563/Hammertone_brown_6_1bc42.jpg)yes you can get Hammer Tone in a spray can.

Or maybe how about Pearlcoat (http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.egmcartech.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/2010_dodge_challenger_plum_images_main.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.egmcartech.com/2009/10/23/2010-dodge-challenger-rt-and-srt8-go-plum-crazy/&usg=__O4gXvPNeBLabDEYe_WCdbaY9OdQ=&h=302&w=563&sz=49&hl=en&start=2&zoom=1&tbnid=nCoEXTQi1fR4oM:&tbnh=71&tbnw=133&ei=azn_TfulMJGOvQOn-a2WAw&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dpearlcoat%26hl%3Den%26biw%3D1680%26bih%3D845%26gbv%3D2%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1&biw=1680&bih=845) just to tick TL off.:;

Paul39
21st June 2011, 03:38 AM
I do have one question that has been bugging me a little and that is should I give it a coat of paint or just leave the primer as the final coat? What are peoples thoughts?I like to use a metal prep that contains phosphoric acid after derusting, that makes the metal grabby to paint. I then follow with a thin coat of primer, and then a finish coat.

The primer is formulated to stick to the metal, the finish coat is made to be hard and durable.

Some finish coats say that no primer is needed. If you used the metal prep, you could probably skip the primer.

I usually pick my finish coat, read the directions, and follow carefully. Most manufacturers like to have succesful paint jobs and happy customers, so give directions to that end.

After going to the trouble of disassembling and derusting, you might as well take a little longer and do a proper paint job.

I can't wait to see the finished result.

Ashley Cobb
21st June 2011, 05:34 PM
Just got onto this thread and am following with great interest. Looks great so far :2tsup:

artme
22nd June 2011, 08:50 AM
I'll stickmy oar in here and agree with Paul on the paint Job.

Christos
22nd June 2011, 12:20 PM
I guess I needed a push in the right direction to get this painted. Just looked at Galmet paint and only have a high gloss for every colour except black in satin. Not wanting to have a high gloss because of the possible reflection.

So stay tuned for some flash colours. :U




Nar one flash colour. :;

Christos
4th July 2011, 07:09 PM
I managed to get a flat paint for metal about two weeks ago. This was after visiting large hardware stores and finding that they only had a high gloss enamel metal paint. :~ I was working way out west and before I finish work I call a specilist paint store and asked what they had for metal in a satin or flat. Only one tin left in a flat.

So I picked this up and got it tinted as dark as would allowed for a base of white. No matter it was flat and so I started with one coat on one side. In this colder weather it takes about 6 to 8 hours for it to be touch dry. And that's what it say on the can. So two weeks have pasted and I got two coats on both sides and today another coat on one side. I think that I can do one more coat and start to put the stand back together.

I must say that it does look good but that's because I like green. :U

Sawdust Maker
4th July 2011, 08:14 PM
:pics:

wheelinround
4th July 2011, 09:50 PM
:o You hand brushed it well i will hold my verdict till we see the pics Christos as I know some people are real artists in hand brushing this sort of thing.

I'd be interested to know what type, brand of paint. ? Why you chose a flat not high gloss?

Green I sort of understand, I recall a fish tank stand was green (we are still waiting to see the fish in the tank):;

Just note Christos what was the temp advisor on the can usually lowest is about 10-15C.

You could use lamps to warm and dry it.

Christos
10th July 2011, 08:39 PM
I managed to get some time in the shed today to put the stand back together. It has been given three coats of paint.

175701

Christos
10th July 2011, 08:50 PM
My reply in red. :U



I'd be interested to know what type, brand of paint. ? Why you chose a flat not high gloss?
I was thinking that high gloss would reflect light and might make it hard to concentrate on the work in progress. By all the finishes that I have seen for lathes I do not recall any having a high gloss finish. I know that some had a rough texture but not high gloss.

The brand of paint is White Knight.

Just note Christos what was the temp advisor on the can usually lowest is about 10-15C.
The temperature on the can says to use when above 10 degrees. Some early mornings that I got up early I went to the garage to take a look and found that the temperature was below 10 degrees. I waiting for a little while by doing other things and once it was warm enough I got to painting.

One thing that I do not mind doing and that is painting. I have always found it relaxing.

wheelinround
10th July 2011, 09:14 PM
Christos thanks for the replys

Colour looks good :2tsup:

Yes have to agree when I was painting although with spray guns you get into a zen mode and away you go.:U Could be the fumes:;

Christos I would put wood blocks between the lathe and bench 1 to give some noise reduction 2 height between 1" or 1 1/2"

Paul39
11th July 2011, 06:24 AM
Christos thanks for the replys

Christos I would put wood blocks between the lathe and bench 1 to give some noise reduction 2 height between 1" or 1 1/2"

I agree with the above. The whole stand will ring like a bell when you are turning.

Chip board or medium density fiberboard (MDF) is acoustically "dead" - does not resonate. Some sort of soft thing between the wood and metal would also help, layer of felt, old blanket, 1/4 inch foam, etc. You could put it under the top and run the bolts holding the lathe through the wood with washers on the bottom. A couple more bolts in the middle to keep the wood snugged up would be good as chip board and MDF tend to sag.

I have a South Bend Heavy 10 metal lathe with a chip pan mounted on a steel cabinet. I removed the motor and disassembled it twice to find what was making the noise, the motor was fine. The motor is mounted to a steel plate attached to the cabinet and the whole thing resonates. I will eventually cut pieces of medium density fiberboard and glue and screw them to the flat areas of the cabinet. Now I use ear protection.

RETIRED
11th July 2011, 09:21 AM
Now I use ear protection.Or you could turn the radio up.:D

Paul39
11th July 2011, 02:49 PM
Or you could turn the radio up.:D

You have Click & Clack in AU? Public Radio call in show, Car Talk: Call about annoying noise in the car, mechanic finds nothing - "turn the radio up!" Call about check engine light, mechanic can't find anything wrong - "put a piece of black tape over the light".

See: Car Talk. Car tips, advice, and troubleshooting. (http://www.cartalk.com/)

When working around machinery I like to be attuned to sights and sounds of the machine. As you well know, sometimes funny little sounds not heeded turn into whumps that at least scare one as a hunk of timber goes bashing across the shop.

hughie
12th July 2011, 01:21 PM
[I agree with the above. The whole stand will ring like a bell when you are turning.



Not to mention it will waltz around the shed as well and finally develop cracks with metal fatigue, especially if you turn like I do :U.

But still I admire what you have done. I have just recently finished a rebuild, a lot less substantial than yours. :2tsup:

Christos
16th July 2011, 04:13 PM
Today I had a friend paint the bed of the lathe. this was mainly going to be the underside of the lathe so just needed a covering.

Of course I gave then a very small brush about 10mm wide. :U

Took them a little while to complete.

Sawdust Maker
16th July 2011, 06:03 PM
an ex-friend?

wheelinround
16th July 2011, 07:02 PM
While they did this for you Christos what were you doing??

Christos
17th July 2011, 12:32 PM
While they did this for you Christos what were you doing??

Cleaned the side of the house, cleaned the garden, tidy up the garage, when shopping, played a round of golf, when fishing, drove to Brisbane and back
:U

That's not true never drove to Brisbane, flew there and back. :U

wheelinround
18th July 2011, 09:44 AM
:photo3::photo3::photo3: never happened any of it
Next you'll be telling us its all put together and you've turned your first pen:p

wheelinround
14th August 2011, 04:54 PM
Hey Christos its almost a month ago since the lathe bed was painted still no photos. :p

So I took some for you, ok Sue took them.
You have Paul/Pacman who was at the club I went to see some old mates at, grabbed me and said "This is the same lathe as Christos, have you got your camera handy"? Good job Sue had hers (mine blew a gasket during the week).

Hope these help I can email them if you like.

Oh Paul ran the lathe while there not so noisy as I thought although there was nothing in the chuck.

Ray


PS. NOTICE ITS BLUE say's Paul

old pete
14th August 2011, 07:15 PM
Hi Christos,

Isn't there supposed to be a woodruff key registering the pulley set to the headstock spindle that the grub screw through the pulley valley bears down upon. I've got 2 Tough's which is a generic of your machine and that's the set up and I've also put new bearings in 4 Woodfasts and a Durden at school where that is also the set up.

That looks a very sound machine unless there is undue wear on the beds in the vicinity of the headstock from the abrasion caused by sand paper residue following years of hard work.

I'd commend you to get a VS constant torque motor if you can afford to do so. I got one from Jim Carroll some years ago, I set the belt on the third highest speed and I've never moved it since.

When you are reassembling the headstock make sure you put the belt into the equation or you will be doing it again and that's a PITA:~:~

Old Pete

Pac man
14th August 2011, 08:14 PM
Hey Christos its almost a month ago since the lathe bed was painted still no photos. :p

So I took some for you, ok Sue took them.
You have Paul/Pacman who was at the club I went to see some old mates at, grabbed me and said "This is the same lathe as Christos, have you got your camera handy"? Good job Sue had hers (mine blew a gasket during the week).

Hope these help I can email them if you like.

Oh Paul ran the lathe while there not so noisy as I thought although there was nothing in the chuck.

Ray


PS. NOTICE ITS BLUE say's Paul


Hi Wheelin,

Was nice to meet you today. Hope the photos help you out Christos.
When i am not on the Leady at the club i use this one. I dont find it noisy ( i can still ear the b.s. flowing in the background)

Regards
Paul

Christos
14th August 2011, 10:44 PM
That's great to see a finished item. It has been a while since I was working in the garage.

I have enter the box challenge and this had taken some time. So while waiting for glue to dry I have been working on the lathe.

Managed to cut some chip board to place between the lathe and stand as suggested to cut down on the noise. Will put the head stock back on this week I hope and then look at getting supports done for the motor.

wheelinround
14th August 2011, 11:36 PM
Hi Wheelin,

Was nice to meet you today. Hope the photos help you out Christos.
When i am not on the Leady at the club i use this one. I dont find it noisy ( i can still ear the b.s. flowing in the background)

Regards
Paul

Yes great to meet you also Paul :2tsup: I'll have to try come over more often just to stir the mob into doing something constructive, I noticed you Toby and the fellow on the scroll saw the only ones working in doors.:;

Christos I meant to say above its Paul you have to thank for the photos too :2tsup:

Christos
15th August 2011, 11:33 PM
Paul I do thank you for the photos. It does give a idea of what I need to do in order to get this completed.

Should only be a short while before I finish.

Pat
16th August 2011, 05:15 AM
Should only be a short while before I finish.


Famous last words:q

Christos
16th August 2011, 09:57 PM
Famous last words:q


So very true but I have help coming.


Yeah I know more famous last words. :U


Or the Aussie version

Person one ask, "What were his last words?"
Person two replies, "Buggered if I know."

wheelinround
17th August 2011, 08:44 AM
So very true but I have help coming.


Yeah I know more famous last words. :U


Or the Aussie version

Person one ask, "What were his last words?"
Person two replies, "Buggered if I know."

Bit like I'll post photos later :q

Christos if you need dimensions etc just ask.

Christos
17th August 2011, 11:34 PM
I spent quite a long time in the garage today putting the lathe back together. The head stock was not aligning to the bed seem to be out by ever so slightly when I placed it into the slot.

I ended up holding the headstock above the bed in one hand while starting the bolt with the other hand from underneath. As for the second bolt same thing. The help that was due is not until a couple more days so this was done on my own. :o

Christos
4th September 2011, 09:14 PM
On another thread I was asked about the progress of the lathe restore.

I got back in to this build this week and started looking for steel tubing. What I have found so far is tubing that is 1.5 mm thick. I am not sure that this is going to stay true.

I am also looking for a right angle joint for the tubing but these seem not to exist. Might have to rethink how this is going to fit.

Stay tuned more to come this week.

wheelinround
5th September 2011, 11:14 AM
Christos yes your right to light that tube. I have some may suit but need to know what dia and length is required, other wise try solid steel bar much better. Try a scrap metal yard or local engineering works they may have off cuts.
I know angle plate is whats shown in above photo but if you had 2 bits of flat it can be welded to 90deg. There is ways you can also use just flat plate.