Holding down your work.

[Scott]

Does anyone have any thoughts on how to hold down or attach your work without creating a tenon or attaching with a faceplate? In other words attaching the substrate without defacing it at all.

This is just a general query and one I've been thinking about lately.

Is there any tutorials around or advice I need to heed, especially when it comes to safety?

Thanks in advance.

-Scott.

[TTIT]

Often have to mount a piece that's too small to waste anything on a tenon so I just glue it on to a bit of waste with PVA. I keep a lot of the tenons after I've parted a finished item off them and I true the face up before I take it out of the chuck so it's ready to glue onto whatever comes up :shrug: As long as you have both surfaces flat, PVA should hold fine.

[RETIRED]

Hot melt glue. Carpet tape (high quality). Jam chuck. As Vern says, a waste block glued on.

[RETIRED]

Between 2 scrap bits of timber for the edges.

[RETIRED]

Vacuum chuck.

[RETIRED]

Cole jaws or a plate with cleats.

[Scott]

On a roll !

I suppose I should elaborate a bit more. I have a piece of ringed gidgee (small), the outside bark log is obviously half circle and the other side is flat. I want to hollow the flat side while keeping the bark intact. Thoughts?

[RETIRED]

Mount a board (3/4" ply is good) on a face plate and attach to lathe.

Centre your piece of timber with the tail stock on the board.

Put scrap timber down each side of the blank that is a little thinner that the thickness of the blank and attach to board.

Screw cleats into side pieces across the blank to lock it down.

Put a scrap piece of timber screwed into the board at ech end to make sure you no slippage endways. Turn.

Quicker to do than type.:D

[Scott]

Fantastic, thank you! I'd obviously been over thinking the solution to the point where I couldn't think. If you get what I mean?

-Scott

[Cliff Rogers]

Somebody posted a link to a video showing something similar not long ago... might have been . :think:

[Cliff Rogers]

I can't find it but I found this.
http://www.sawg.org.nz/oldsite/Projects/Off-centre%20Bowl.pdf

[RETIRED]

Fantastic, thank you! I'd obviously been over thinking the solution to the point where I couldn't think. If you get what I mean?

-ScottDo that heaps of times.:D

[Scott]

That helps immensely Cliff, thank you, appreciated. I think I've gone mad searching youtube over the last 30 minutes before I turned to the brains trust, should of done that in the first place!

[RETIRED]

Somebody posted a link to a video showing something similar not long ago... might have been . :think:I don't think it was me but at my age the memory fades a bit.:wink:

[Scott]

Craft?

[Cliff Rogers]

I don't think it was me but at my age the memory fades a bit.:wink:
Mine has started to make stuff up to replace that bits with beer stains. :D

[Cliff Rogers]

I found it.... I told you it was . :2tsup:

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/interesting-137152/

‪Erick's Goldregenast‬‏ - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNcOtVQCoLM&feature=youtu.be)

[cookie48]

Got a nice piece of red gum with nice natural feature on it. This idea will be ideal to use. Thankyou Crafty one.

[Scott]

Well done, thank you Cliff, owe you (and ) a beer! . *watching* :2tsup:

[Cliff Rogers]

Well done, thank you Cliff, owe you (and ) a beer! . *watching* :2tsup:
I'll have his beer, you can give him a cup of tea instead. :D

[Scott]

Ahh, that vid is perfect, that's exactly what I wanted, thanks Cliff. I've actually got a brew on at the moment (tea, that is) so I'll pipe it down the interwebs to him :D

[RETIRED]

Just going to have one.:D

[dr4g0nfly]

Dave Springet (he of the Chinese Balls) has a book out called 'Woodturning Full Circle'.

In it he uses a hollowed block filled with Polyurethane Foam (the stuff builders & plumbers use) to hold small pieces.

I've not tried it yet but he would not advocate it if it did not work.

[Woodturnerjosh]

Craft?


:2tsup: :D

[joe greiner]

Probably not suited for pieces including the bark, unless the bark is gently removed and re-attached by gluing; and I'm not sure what kind of glue would be appropriate. But one of my strangest workholding contraptions is a bucket of ice attached to a faceplate. The workpiece is embedded in crushed ice, a slight amount of water added, and allowed to freeze for about 6 hours (YMMV).

After turning the exposed portion of the workpiece, I melt the ice with hot tap water in the kitchen sink; re-orient and repeat as needed.

Thus far, it's practically a solution in search of a problem, and the moisture content goes nuts with all the water coming and going. Not very precise, but infinitely (+/-) adjustable within its limits, for multi-axis turning.

David Belser in New Hampshire embeds his work in a solid chunk of ice, and turns between centers. Google is your friend.

Cheers,
Joe

[Scott]

Now thats a quite inventive solution. The piece I'm thinking of using is quite small therefore I'd get away with freezing. How hard is it to hold the piece down considering how slippery the ice is?

On the same vein, you could make a mould out of foam however the blank wouldn't be embedded.

Thanks for the info Joe and everyone else.

[joe greiner]

The ice has to engage a substantial portion of the work; essentially very, very adjustable "jaws." I think surface mounting would be a disaster, because you'd have only a few seconds of turning before the heat generated, or ambient, would melt the interface. There's a similar hazard with hot-melt glue too close to the working area. DAMHIKT.

Cheers,
Joe

[Scott]

Generally, the ambient in Australia doesn't get much below 10c (50f) even during winter during the day. You'd have to pull it out of the freezer and bolt for the lathe. Sounds more impractical the more I think about it, however still a good solution.

[dr4g0nfly]

Dave Springet (he of the Chinese Balls) has a book out called 'Woodturning Full Circle'.

In it he uses a hollowed block filled with Polyurethane Foam (the stuff builders & plumbers use) to hold small pieces.

Hope I've not broken too many laws but here are the photos from the book on Dave's Foam chuck.

[Scott]

That's brilliant, thanks dr4g0nfly :) That book has been mentioned a couple of times in this thread (and others), think I might make an investment in it.

[Kwors]

Probably not suited for pieces including the bark, unless the bark is gently removed and re-attached by gluing; and I'm not sure what kind of glue would be appropriate. But one of my strangest workholding contraptions is a bucket of ice attached to a faceplate. The workpiece is embedded in crushed ice, a slight amount of water added, and allowed to freeze for about 6 hours (YMMV).

After turning the exposed portion of the workpiece, I melt the ice with hot tap water in the kitchen sink; re-orient and repeat as needed.

Thus far, it's practically a solution in search of a problem, and the moisture content goes nuts with all the water coming and going. Not very precise, but infinitely (+/-) adjustable within its limits, for multi-axis turning.

David Belser in New Hampshire embeds his work in a solid chunk of ice, and turns between centers. Google is your friend.

Cheers,
Joe

You could wrap the back end of the piece in Clingfilm to stop the poly adhering to the bark:unsure:

Should have looked at the rest of the thread before replying... DHO!

[joe greiner]

You could wrap the back end of the piece in Clingfilm to stop the poly adhering to the bark:unsure:

Should have looked at the rest of the thread before replying... DHO!

As a matter of fact, that might be a worthwhile improvement to resolve some other issues. And I still have some more experiments pending.

If you care to, please PM me with your real name so I can give proper credit if it works. Otherwise, I'll credit an anonymous Brit.

Cheers,
Joe