Info on a Record Coronet lathe

[Ralphie]

I have just bought an old Record Coronet No3 wood lathe. It is in pretty good condition. However I have a problem with the tailstock. I was going to remove the tail stock quill (the horizontal threaded bar) up the middle of the tailstock as it had rust on it. There is what appears to be a grub screw on the side which I treid to undo. It lines up with the slot in the quill. I couldn't undo it (allen screw) so I tightened it again. Now I can't wind the quill in or out. The screw moves a small amount ( 1/10 of a turn) but it doesn't matter where I have it I can't wind the centre in or out. The handle on the top is loose. Can anyone suggest a fix?

[robbygard]

I have just bought an old Record Coronet No3 wood lathe. It is in pretty good condition. However I have a problem with the tailstock. I was going to remove the tail stock quill (the horizontal threaded bar) up the middle of the tailstock as it had rust on it. There is what appears to be a grub screw on the side which I treid to undo. It lines up with the slot in the quill. I couldn't undo it (allen screw) so I tightened it again. Now I can't wind the quill in or out. The screw moves a small amount ( 1/10 of a turn) but it doesn't matter where I have it I can't wind the centre in or out. The handle on the top is loose. Can anyone suggest a fix?


i can't help you specifically, however, i used to own such a lathe or similar and when i needed some specific information i emailed through their website ( Record Power Woodworking Machines and Accessories including Woodturning, Grinding, Bandsaw, Dust Extraction, Routing, Drilling and Mortice machinery. (http://www.recordpower.co.uk/) ) and had an answer in a few days


regards david

[robbygard]

actually they used to have a good help section/frequently asked questions section which had step by step instructions for a number of things too which i cannot find there now .. i note however, that they have a login function now so it may be that function is still available if you register

regards david

[Ironwood]

Maybe the internal thread has some surface rust on the exposed threads, they will be difficult to clean right up to the grubscrew, but maybe a soak with some CRC ( or similar ) might help.

[jimbur]

Sounds as if the locking screw has been replaced with an allen screw. The locking screws usually have a plastic handle. If a screw has been forced too much into the groove it can burr and so be awkward to remove. I'd try lots of wd40 and leave for a while. Then work slowly on it turning each way. Eventually you'll have it far enough out to move the centre right out.
But go to the Record Power website for advice. they are pretty good and you'll need to buy a new locking nut anyway.
Cheers,
Jim

[jimbur]

ps they'll be able to send you a manual in pdf format.

[jimbur]

I've been doing some more thinking. Does the tailstock have any other locking device than the grub screw you mentioned?
Cheers,
Jim

[Treecycle]

Ralphie, is this your lathe (http://www.lathes.co.uk/coronet%20major/page4.html)?

[Ralphie]

Thanks guys. I did try the uk website and yes you do have to register, but it is set up for new buyers from what I can see. The grub screw I mentioned is at the side and the tensioning screw (handle) is at the top. I have soaked it in CRC so I'll see if it is easier this pm. Is Car-ba-tec the best source for chucks, centres etc in Brisbane?

[jimbur]

I've got an oldish RPML 300 and they were very good at answering my questions. If yours is anything like mine the centre only comes out of the back as the slot doesn't go all the way along. If they are any help I have pdf manuals for the CL3 and the DML, both of which have similarities with the coronet Treecycle showed. PM me with an email address if you want them.
Cheers,
JIm

[hughie]

Ralphie,

Sometimes a over zealous previous owner/s will have over tightened this screw and mushrooms the end out till its totally stuffed.:C Not uncommon and a PITA, unfortunately theres is no easy way to get around this, other than to just wind the screw out and take your chances. Worst case scenario is that the tread is stuffed completely :C :no:

But you can resurrect it with a heli-coil, readily available at your local automotive spares place.

Thread Repair Helicoils & Kits : NAED Online Industrial Supplies & Hardware Store (http://www.naed.com.au/thread-repair-helicoils-kits-c-246.html)

How to Repair Threads With A Heli-Coil Insert - YouTube

[jimbur]

Ralphie,

Sometimes a over zealous previous owner/s will have over tightened this screw and mushrooms the end out till its totally stuffed.:C Not uncommon and a PITA, unfortunately theres is no easy way to get around this, other than to just wind the screw out and take your chances. Worst case scenario is that the tread is stuffed completely
On mine the locking screw was stuffed as Hughie says. I managed to get it out enough to removed the centre of the tailstock. Then I wound to screw in far enough to carefully (very carefully) file off the mushroomed end until it would come out.
Cheers,
Jim

[Sapling]

There should be a little flat disc in between the screw and the tail stock centre so the screw pushes the disc which inturn holds the tail stock centre.

[jimbur]

There should be a little flat disc in between the screw and the tail stock centre so the screw pushes the disc which inturn holds the tail stock centre.
That might not necessarily be the case here as it appears that the grub screw has the function of stopping the centre turning by intruding into the horizontal slot. It seems there is a separate locking device on top.
cheers,
Jim

[woodwork wally]

I know its not good for the paintwork but a small amount of heat and then more wd40 could persuade the screw to come out. It is basically a locator screw and not meant to tighten onto internals of tailstock but merely to prevent them from rotating while drilling etc. If heat and wd doesn't do job then brute force and helicoil is the answer see hughies post good luck WW.wally

[Sapling]

Yep, your right it is on the lock.

[jimbur]

Another thought is that the grub screw may have been flattened at the tip over the years as first one side then the other of the groove pressed on to it. Turning it even a fraction may have jammed it against the sides. If you gently use the allen key one way and then the other only for a fraction of a movement at the same time as moving the wheel back and forth, it may free it.
Cheers,
Jim

[Ralphie]

Thanks for that. I have done that now (turned screw in and out slightly, many times) and at least the slide is moving more freely. The screw just will not undo. I think I will strip the hex in side the screw if I put any more weight on it. Now that the slide is moving in and out I will probably leave the screw in there. Only other thing would be drill it out and retap???
Thanks for all your comments.
It's a great lathe and has cleaned up well. Some rust on the chrome bars meant I had to use some wet and dry and kero so the chrome is dull here and there but functional. It has the bowl turning accessory also ,but the tool rest for that is missing? Thks again guys.

[Ralphie]

I finally fixed the problem. Decided to go for broke. Wound the screw out by putting a shifter on the allen key to find that the screw has two flats on it. I thought it would have a round end with a slightly smaller diameter. I was trying to turn it in the slot, no wonder it wouldn't come out. It burred the slot where I turned it but was able to clean the slot up. Cleaned up the two flats and the slot, Re-assembled by pulling it out the rear setting the screw up then sliding the quill back in. All working beautifully.
Thks

[masher]

I know I'm resurrecting an ancient thread, but I just ran into the same problem.

I had a single grub screw with a machine flat .

I also tried wiggling, but that didn't work to release the quill. I used a piece of pipe ~300 mm long as a handle for my allen key and got the grub screw out. I then removed the handle and hammered the quill out using a rubber mallet and a pine block.

The grubscrew hard made quite a gouge in the keyway of the quill and had also significantly raised the lip, which was why it wouldn't release by itself.

I sandpapered the inside of the keyway, and the raised lip, and it slid back in by hand. I put the same grubscrew back in and it all works smoothly.

I also made a mental note not to touch that screw ever again.

[WaggaSteve]

One of the earlier people was correct that Record no longer reply to questions about old lathes. I do have a manual (PDF) if it would help anyone

[Paul39]

See: Coronet & Record No.1, 2 and 3 wood lathes (http://www.lathes.co.uk/coronet/page5.html)

At the bottom it says books are available.

[rwl518p]

Hi I could do with a copy of the manual please.
Ken

[rwl518p]

One of the earlier people was correct that Record no longer reply to questions about old lathes. I do have a manual (PDF) if it would help anyone hi I could do with a copy of the manual please [email protected]