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Christos
27th November 2011, 11:21 PM
I wanted to re-handle the roughing gouge with a slightly longer handle as I feel a little bit cramped when holding the chisel to the turning.

I have been practicing on a few pieces and thought it's time to give it a shot to make one out of some hardwood. Not sure of the species but it is very heavy compared to pine and oregon. So I hope it's a hardwood. :roll:

Well the turning, drilling the hole and the ferrule seem ok. The problem I had was with securing the chisel to the handle. I used a wooden mallet on the back end of the handle while holding the chisel. It started to sit in but would not go further. I took it out easy enough and drilled a little bigger hole just at the start.

Same thing would not sit in tight. Slightly bigger hole which now made it three steps. Now I think this was too big so I epoxy the chisel into the handle.

What should I have done?

Thank you

Pat
28th November 2011, 04:33 AM
Christos, a question, does the RG have a round or tapered tang? If a round tang, I'd drill the hole at the same size of the tang, eg Tang is 12.7mm (1/2"), hole is 12.7mm (1/2"). If it it's tapered, then drill the hole in stages. Measure the tang with about 25mm, 50mm and 75mm and drill the narrowest dimension the furthermost.

To get the chisel to seat properly, holding on to the chisel, Place the chisel and handle vertically on a solid surface and then tap them on said surface.

How good is the fit of the ferrule?

munruben
28th November 2011, 07:43 AM
Sounds like good advice from Pat. How about a picture of your finished handle?

wheelinround
28th November 2011, 08:19 AM
Yep Pat's said most of it.

Christos are you drilling deep enough might be the problem as you say it "Wouldn't go any further" dia of hole may not be the problem.

I either hold the tool in a vice or tap it into a piece of softwood (pine) or even just bang the handle end down onto a solid surface.

Claw Hama
28th November 2011, 08:28 AM
Great advise, agreed but Christos if you want to know if it's hardwood, hold the handle firmly in your right hand, put your left hand on the bench in a solid position and then strike across your left hand with said piece of maybe hardwood. If it hurts its hard wood.:whistling2::D

brendan stemp
28th November 2011, 08:49 AM
I reckon the way you did is fine and exactly the way I do it for the flat, tapered tangs. Epoxy glue is a perfect way to fill the gap and glue the tool into place.

rsser
28th November 2011, 10:11 AM
I seat the tool by inserting it into the hole, then dropping the handle bottom a foot or two straight down onto a carpet square on the concrete floor. The weight of the steel drives the tang in further.

Like Pat I used a stepped hole for a tapered tang but sometimes the fit's not good; a bit of twisting shows the tight point and sometimes grinding a small chamfer on the tang at that point is all that's needed to get a better fit. Failing that, epoxy.

Christos
28th November 2011, 10:19 AM
The tang is tapered.

Will post a photo of the finished handle. I was thinking of using boiled linseed oil. Not too concern how long it takes to dry.

Christos
28th November 2011, 10:28 AM
..... Christos if you want to know if it's hardwood, hold the handle firmly in your right hand, put your left hand on the bench in a solid position and then strike across your left hand with said piece of maybe hardwood. If it hurts its hard wood.:whistling2::D


I give it a try but I think that I used my right hand as that is stronger then my left. I will try and post pictures of the results. :U

Claw Hama
28th November 2011, 11:08 AM
Second thoughts Christos, you can also use someone else's left hand:D

Christos
28th November 2011, 11:57 AM
Second thoughts Christos, you can also use someone else's left hand:D



My backup plan. :U

turnerted
28th November 2011, 04:01 PM
Nothing wrong with using epoxy . I always do it that way and never had one come loose yet.
Ted

Jim Carroll
28th November 2011, 05:56 PM
I wanted to re-handle the roughing gouge with a slightly longer handle as I feel a little bit cramped when holding the chisel to the turning.

I have been practicing on a few pieces and thought it's time to give it a shot to make one out of some hardwood. Not sure of the species but it is very heavy compared to pine and oregon. So I hope it's a hardwood. :roll:

Well the turning, drilling the hole and the ferrule seem ok. The problem I had was with securing the chisel to the handle. I used a wooden mallet on the back end of the handle while holding the chisel. It started to sit in but would not go further. I took it out easy enough and drilled a little bigger hole just at the start.

Same thing would not sit in tight. Slightly bigger hole which now made it three steps. Now I think this was too big so I epoxy the chisel into the handle.

What should I have done?

Thank you

Sound more like you did not go deep enough with your initial drilling.

The way you have swaged the tool into the handle is the best way as the square edges bind better into the timber and get a firm grip without the need for any fillers.

Drilling in a stepped way is always a good way to get the tapered tang to locate centrally as well.

Christos
28th November 2011, 10:37 PM
Here is the handled chisel that I made. The ferrule is from an old curtain rod and the thickness of the metal is about 1.5mm thick.

189374


No finish applied as yet and not tried on the lathe. Some of the other handles that I have my fingers are wrapping all the way around. This one is a little thicker with about 10mm gap between end of fingers and palm.

I guess I will see how this feels before I make another one.

Also wish to thank everyone for the responses to my question. I was using the back end of the painter brush to measure the dept and no way of rechecking as I used the brush to mix the epoxy, and that's long gone.

I do have one more chisel to make a handle for so the thoughts are noted for the next one.


And if anyone knows what type of wood this is please let us know.

oldiephred
29th November 2011, 07:10 AM
The proper way to seat a tool on a handle (axe, hammer, chesil, etc.) IMHO of course, is to place the tang into the hole and seat it slightly then hold the handle with one hand while hammering on the free end of the handle with a mallet. Do not rest the tool on or against anything, do not pound on the tool, just let it hang free.This method will "draw" the tool onto the handle with enough force that it will split the handle if the drilled hole is too small. With this method, make sure the sizes are right because getting it off will be very difficult. good luck :2tsup:

Avery
29th November 2011, 08:22 AM
I drill a small (2 -3mm) hole across the handle to coincide with the end of the hole for the tang. This will let any excess glue/air out and reduce the amount of force needed to push the tang into the handle.

wheelinround
29th November 2011, 08:23 AM
Looks good Christos :2tsup:

I prefer the tang in right up to the shoulder tho

rsser
29th November 2011, 10:11 AM
Nice handle Christos.

Only thing that I can add is that before fitting it's worth marking the tang level with the ferrule at the point where it should be fully seated. That tells you how wrong you've got the hole, if at all.

Tim the Timber Turner
29th November 2011, 03:18 PM
The proper way to seat a tool on a handle (axe, hammer, chesil, etc.) IMHO of course, is to place the tang into the hole and seat it slightly then hold the handle with one hand while hammering on the free end of the handle with a mallet. Do not rest the tool on or against anything, do not pound on the tool, just let it hang free.This method will "draw" the tool onto the handle with enough force that it will split the handle if the drilled hole is too small. With this method, make sure the sizes are right because getting it off will be very difficult. good luck :2tsup:

Spot on.:2tsup:

That's how I do it.

Cheers

Tim:)

Christos
29th November 2011, 07:44 PM
The proper way to seat a tool on a handle (axe, hammer, chesil, etc.) IMHO of course, is to place the tang into the hole and seat it slightly then hold the handle with one hand while hammering on the free end of the handle with a mallet. ......

I try that next time. Just another skill to develop.

Paul39
30th November 2011, 01:02 PM
Looks good Christos :2tsup:

I prefer the tang in right up to the shoulder tho

Agreed.

I have not yet broken a tool, but have bent a skew and a roughing gouge right where it goes into the handle. These were not high end "good" tools but what came in a box full of stuff.

Christos,

Nice looking handle. I have found big fat handles lets me turn longer without my hands cramping

The proper way to get a handle on a tool is anyway you can without harming the tool, handle, or yourself.

Sawdust Maker
30th November 2011, 04:08 PM
Cristos

not a bad looking handle :2tsup:
I've finished mine with shellawax or organoil - anything which doesn't make them slippery in the hand


...

The proper way to get a handle on a tool is anyway you can without harming the tool, handle, or yourself.

can't disagree with that :2tsup:

wheelinround
30th November 2011, 09:43 PM
Christos I have searched the Pen forum and rest of forum but can't locate the Pen you made :?

Did you use this tool to make it??

or Did you use the pen to draw the tool? or as a turning tool :U

Christos
30th November 2011, 09:51 PM
.....
I've finished mine with shellawax or organoil - anything which doesn't make them slippery in the hand..

I was thinking that boiled linseed oil was used to protect the handles of hammers. After a while I am expecting this to darker from continual handling of the tool.

Christos
30th November 2011, 10:00 PM
Christos I have searched the Pen forum and rest of forum but can't locate the Pen you made :?

Did you use this tool to make it??

or Did you use the pen to draw the tool? or as a turning tool :U


Yes I did make the pen or as I should say pens. I made a total of four pens from different woods. I did not take photos of the process but will be making more in the not too distance future.

The reason will become clear once I start a new thread.

RETIRED
30th November 2011, 11:03 PM
I was thinking that boiled linseed oil was used to protect the handles of hammers. After a while I am expecting this to darker from continual handling of the tool.I don't finish them at all.

They soon get a nice patina from use.

rsser
3rd December 2011, 01:07 PM
sweats finish. All those years of production turning ;-}

Paul39
4th December 2011, 04:04 AM
I sand my handles with 80 grit. When I have a cloth with whatever finish I am using on a bowl, (boiled linseed, danish oil, tung oil, polyurethane varnish) I rub the dregs on the handles and the metal parts. I have a dirt floor for the shop so it gets very damp at times.

The 80 grit leaves enough texture that I can get a firm grip. I expect after a number of years they will get slick, like 's tool handles.