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turnerted
14th June 2012, 03:05 PM
Back in 2005 I invested in a Triton respirator and it has served me well . About a year ago I realized that I would have to start looking for a replacement . There is just so much that can be patched up with duct tape and the visor had become so scratched that I was flipping it up to do detailed work ,which rather defeats the purpose of using it so I went looking for a replacement .
The Triton is no longer available and the 3M/Racal is overly expensive at nearly $1000.
I tried the Trend but I think it is poorly balanced and top heavy . I don't think the Paftec is suitable for me as I have facial adornment and I don't think it would seal well enough, also I would still need to use an additional face shield. So I decided to try making my own.
Some time ago, NeilS posted details of his system and I am gratefull to him for advice and suggestions.
I decided the only practical way to go for a DIY was to use a tethered system .Also I wanted to avoid having to recharge batteries and having to clean/replace filters.
For my air source I use an inline blower and suck air from outside my shed.
I bought this on E-bay for $79 + $17.95 cartage . It is called a 4" inline exhaust fan and is used in the hydroponic industry.It is said to put out 125 CFM and only uses 65W so it shouldn't cost much to run.
I cut a hole in the cement sheet cladding the internal wall of my shed for the blower and was intendind to run a bit of 4" pipe through the wall cavity to connect to the outside . The exterier of my shed is clad with hardie plank and when I looked through the hole on the inside,I could see plenty of daylight coming through the slits of the overlapping planks, so didn't need to cut an exterior hole.
I purchased some flexible tubing online from Rock Around The Block, a company that sells garden pond equipment . I bought tubing that was 25mm ID x 31mm OD at $5.30/m plus about $10 cartage. I have since found that Bunnies sell a similar tubing.To connect the tubing, I turned up a suitable sized plug with a flange to fit the fan and bored a hole to fit the tubing.
I now had to find a suitable face shield to adapt and one in carbatecs catalogue described as " professional face shield" looked good but expensive but they didn't have one in stock and I had to wait over a month for them to get one in. When I went to have a look ,they wouldn't let me try it on so I didn't buy it.This turned out to be fortuitus as the next day at our club meeting a member turned up with an ancient respirator and I could see now how I could adapt one of the common Protector face shields. Cost about $27.
I purchased some 20mm thick plastc foam rubber, cost $20 for about a square metre which was much more than I needed but I thought it might take a few goes to get it right.
I stuck masking tape around one half of the rim of the visor and marked off numbered stations around it, then while wearing it I got my wife to measure the distance from the edge of the visor to the side of my face and chin and record it. I added 10mm to all diamensions because I wanted the foam to be a tight fit.I then cut the shape out .
I glued the foam round the edge of the visor using liquid nails contact cement and using plenty of masking tape to to hold the foam in position until the glue set .I also cut a couple of slits in the foam for the arms of my glasses.
I also glued a strip of foam across the back edge of the visor to seal the gap to my head.
I fitted a swivel fitting from an old vacuum cleaner hose to a hole bored in the top of the visor just back from the face shield and plugged the hose in.
It was soon evident that the tubing was not flexible enough.I discovered there was very flexible tubing called Cpap tubing. It is used to connect up machines used by people with sleep apnea. I bought a 1.8 m length online for about $15 on E-bay and used it as a dropper to connect from the original tubing to the the face shield .I have since found there is 3m length of tubing available which would be better.
I removed the swivel fitting from the face shield and used it at the connection between the two tubes . The connection runs along a wire above me to allow some movement in the shed . If doing this again, I would scrap the swivel connection as it doesn't work very well and twisting up the tubing is not a problem.
I have been using this now for about a month and am very happy with it . At first I had problems with hooking my glasses off when removing the visor but once I got used to it, It is probably quicker to put off and on than the Triton.
All the connections and changes in hose sizes reduced the airflow considerably but using the flowmeter which came with the Triton. shows the flowrate is at the top of the scale.When using my Triton, I used to find at the end of th day,that my glasses had a fine dust layer on them. Now they are clean after a days turning.
This has been pretty long winded but I hope some may find it interesting and see that a PP respirator can be made for $200 or less.
The pictures are pretty obvious and I am happy to answer any queries.
Ted

ticklingmedusa
14th June 2012, 04:26 PM
Great writeup & photos, thanks for sharing this. :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:
I'm using an Airpro now and getting accustomed to it's quirks but still brainstorming
a tethered unit like Neal & you are using.
The one possible drawback I see is the "pull" & tangle potential of the airline
not necessarily in the spinning piece but in tools, toolrest levers, etc.
I used a gas mask and visibility & wearing glasses was difficult to impossible.
The strap system on the gas mask was efficient & more comfortable
than any dust mask I've used.
Maybe not a problem for some but after my first attempt my neck hurt.
I think tubing that flexes very easily and enough lengthwise will also reduce
that problem in my next one.
I would rather be turning than putting something like that together but until there are
better options on the market I'll keep tinkering.
The face shield below looks like it would lend itself to a setup like that.
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Paul39
16th June 2012, 10:34 AM
Turnerted, (http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/11283-turnerted/)

Nice system, very well done, photographed, and written.

Thanks

hughie
16th June 2012, 12:13 PM
Ted, well done thats a great looking system and even better WIP. :2tsup:

I have one question, with my face shield I have a problem with static and the dust sticks to it. :~ I have learned to live with it, but its still a pain. I have thought of building what they call an 'airknife', curved to match the shield that blows a fine line fo air down the shield.

Does your face shield have similar issues?

turnerted
16th June 2012, 04:05 PM
ticklingmedusa
I have not found any problem with tangleing . I didn't mention it, but you may notice in a couple of pictures,that I have wired the inlet hose to the top back edge of the face shield because I did find that the hose sometimes dangled in front of my field of vision and could possibly catch on something . This also ensured that the hose entered at an angle so the airstream was directed on the front of the shield and prevents fogging.
The face shield you mentioned looks like the one rejected . Just make sure the lens is not a compound curve or it would be difficult to shape the foam to stick on to it.
hughie
I have no problem with static dust attraction . I do occasionaly wipe the visor with a damp cloth .If you want to have a look at my set up and have a test run you would be welcome.
Ted

NeilS
29th June 2012, 11:11 PM
Some nice enhancements there Ted, some of which I will incorporate into my next version.

Many thanks for sharing.

GMsweeper
8th August 2012, 10:22 AM
Some nice enhancements there Ted, some of which I will incorporate into my next version.

Many thanks for sharing.

What happens to the carbon dioxide that you expell?

BobL
8th August 2012, 10:56 AM
What happens to the carbon dioxide that you expell?

The fan should provide a constant over pressure which should blow the CO2 out.

I like the idea of a homemade solution to the high cost of over pressured air masks, however I would suggest using a better quality face mask. I have three of those yellow Protector? masks in a box somewhere that I used over a period of 2 years. I found the face shield plastic is too soft and it gets scratched far too easily and their wrap is limited so they have poor peripheral vision. The head band fittings are also on the flimsy side. I have since then bought 2 of the Orange Plastic wrap around masks from Mitre 10. Although they cost twice as much as the Yellow Protectors, the transparent plastic is a bit tougher and it has excellent wrap around, especially under the chin.

The other aspect that would irritate me somewhat would be being tethered to the the fan. I guess if everything you need is all in the one place that would be less of an issue.

In the end it is still a face mask and it suffers from the same problem as all masks in that unless the shed is well vented, turning fills the shed with and covers clothes hair and skin with dust. Wood dust on skin can trigger some of the same allergies as those that are caused by inhalation. If the operator wishes to avoid these, as soon as the mask is removed the operator should leave the shed, remove and wash their clothes and take a shower otherwise movement and the warm human body acts like a chimney funnelling invisible dust up around the head and related openings.

Few turners understand how little dust is needed to send their workspace over the Australian OHS standard for wood dust. Bill Pentz describes an excellent example on his website and in a recent post, which I showed via this photo in the dust forum.

This is what 270 mg of hardwood dust inside a soft drink bottle lid looks like.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachments/f200/214671d1341483788-how-much-dust-too-much-img_3041.jpg
This much dust is enough to send a 9 x 10 x 3 m shed above the Australian standard OSH recommended maximum air content for hardwood of 1 mg/m^3.
The same amount of dust is enough to contaminate the air in 4 , 6m x 4m x 2.7 m sheds.

Now I agree that there is a difference between industrial workplace and hobby level standards primarily because of total hours of exposure. However, wood turners love their hobby and probably spend longer than most woodworkers exposed to high levels of dust. Their work also produces a lot of fine dust.

I reckon turners should direct their dust control attention firstly to high volume air extraction at source and use masks only as back up to minimize risks while turning. I'm not talking about the big chips here, they don't represent anywhere near the harm that the invisibles do, let them fall where the may and sweep them up.

turnerted
8th August 2012, 05:50 PM
GMsweeper
AS BobL said , the incoming air far exceedes the exhailed CO2 and the excess just leaks out as with any other PP respirator .
BobL
I'll just have to see how this face shield goes. I do have another one of the same type, that I have been using for several years just for turning green wood with no problems.
One thing I should have mentioned, is that the face mask I selected has an aluminium trim round the edge and this keeps the two sides of the shield parallel. I notice the ones without the trim flair out much more .Also ,the visor must not have a compound curve or it would be much harder to glue the foam to it and get a good fit.
Ted

dufflight
16th July 2014, 08:49 PM
Going to have to build one of these. I thought of having a hose attached to the dust extractor and another from the helmet going out side so it sucks air into the helmet. but pushing fresh air might be easier. lower wattage as well.

BobL
16th July 2014, 09:13 PM
Going to have to build one of these. I thought of having a hose attached to the dust extractor and another from the helmet going out side so it sucks air into the helmet. . . . . .

You definitely don't want to be doing it like that. Even though the helmet is connected to the outside aid it will still creates a negative pressure region inside the mask which will draw some fine dust from the room. If you are going to use a mask it should be constantly positively pressured.

dougturner
16th July 2014, 10:05 PM
I still use my old Racal positive pressure mask. Have had it at least 10 years, and seems to be still going well. I have renewed the filter many times, and have no glasses fogging at all. With my mask, static dust attraction is almost eliminated on the clear shield by an occasional polish inside and out with Armorall Car and Vinyl liquid polish. Seems to work for me. Best of luck, and whatever face/dust mask/system you have, it will do you no good whatsoever if you don't wear it/turn it on.
Great article, Ted. Regards to all, Doug. :U

chuck1
17th July 2014, 12:01 AM
One more mod/purchase! The see through tear offs are great for protecting the face shield from annoying scratches and sap etc!

Hermit
17th July 2014, 09:56 AM
Thank you for an excellent write-up Ted. :2tsup:

You've got me thinking now. I've been ignoring this for far too long, due to the cost of the commercial units.

turnerted
17th July 2014, 05:36 PM
Interesting to see this post resurface after just over 2 years .
One modification I have made ,is to replace the black flexable hose which comes out of the blower , with 45mm ID pvc pipe to the connection with the clear flexible hose.This increases the airflow slightly.I am also thinking about replaceing the faceshield as after about two and a half years of almost daily usage, its getting a bit scratched.I am going to investigate if it would be possible to use a high impact compound curve faceshield, although shaping the foam seal round the neck will be more difficult.
If you want more info Steve,just ask.
Ted

dufflight
17th July 2014, 08:28 PM
I ordered one of these fans. mainly cos of wattage(25) and i have a self closing vent for it somewhere. I'm using the same face shield but will look around for something that covers the head. Might as well keep the sawdust out of my hair. Plus air will come from house. Be nice to hook up helmet to overalls. Like the idea of cold or warm air rushing out around my socks.:D

Hermit
17th July 2014, 10:51 PM
Interesting to see this post resurface after just over 2 years .

I didn't notice that it was an old thread. Not to worry, it doesn't make it any less useful.



......If you want more info Steve,just ask.
Ted

Thanks. Will do Ted. :2tsup:

I won't be starting it immediately, until after I finish the last parts of the vac system, cup chucks etc, but I will start accumulating bits and pieces.
I really need something - my cough gets worse by the day.