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Paul39
3rd September 2012, 05:11 AM
I stumbled upon this: Big Guy Productions - Fall Blowout Sale Now until October 1, 2012 (http://eddiecastelin.com/fall_blowout_sale)

Has anyone tried them?

I use my Ci0 Easy Finisher as a bowl hollowing tool. I sharpen the "never needs sharpening" bit by removing it and placing it flat side down on a 600 grit diamond paddle sharpener.

I scoot it around in circles and up and down the length with light pressure with my forefinger, removing the bit and tapping the sharpener up side down against the bench from time to time to knock off any grindings.

When I see a little shine around the perimeter of the bit, I stop and mount it back.

I have given the mounted bit a few swipes on the sharpener, but taking it off makes it more even on the whole top.

The sharpening does make a significant difference, with a cleaner cut and the speed of cutting. That tool will hog out a bowl very quickly.

It works best on hard, dry, abrasive timber.

Even though I got it barely used at 1/3 off, I had misgivings after I got it home and tried it. It is the most I have ever spent for a lathe tool. Over time with use it does earn its keep with the speed it hogs out a big bowl.

As stated elsewhere, it is a scraper, and I get smoother final finishing cuts with a heavy, thick, high speed or carbon steel scraper with a burr on top.

That very sharp edge only lasts one swipe across the inside or outside of the bowl.

Heilander
3rd September 2012, 09:54 AM
I got 3 of these from 'Eddie' they're very good and last a long time.i got a piece of 20mm mild steel bar and made my own tool

hughie
4th September 2012, 10:01 AM
Paul

I find the such cutters work fine. But often down under we have some silica content to the timber and this plays merry hell with any edge :C.

like the your idea of the 600g lap for touch ups, it obviously produces a nice fine edge and by the sound of it you have some fairly hard wood to play with up your way as well.

NeilS
6th September 2012, 11:37 AM
I renew the edge on my carbide tips in batches, and that way I avoid any down time, other than a tip change, while turning.

My preferred method is to only sharpen the edges and leave the polished upper face as supplied by the manufacturer; I do this as I'm never going to get that face as smooth again with any sharpening method that I have available, well not in any reasonable amount of time. I have found that the polish on the cutting face has a noticeable effect on the durability of the cutting edge and the quality of the cut.

I sharpen the edges upside down on a diamond wheel. The matrix bond tends to let the diamonds go (some bonds are stronger than others) before the diamond themselves wear out. Presenting the cutter upside down to the diamond wheel on the bench grinder avoids the sharp edge of the TC picking out the diamonds from the matrix.

BTW - I dislike the way hogging down with a scraper, made of whatever metal, sprays you with splintery shavings...:( With a gouge you can direct the shavings away from you...:)