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adrian
29th March 2005, 05:51 PM
I've just started to buy some new chisels and wanted to make some handles.
I'd be interested to know how other people accurately drill the hole for the tang and what do they use for the ferrule.

gatiep
29th March 2005, 06:21 PM
Adrian

After turning the handle remove the center pin from your MC900 live center, undo the grubscrew on the side to drop it out, then use a long drill through the tailstock and live center. Just make sure that the circular part around the center pin marked the wood before removing the center. Theis makes it easy to lign the handle up again. Long hole drills are expensive but as you don't require a very deep hole, use a piece of round rod about 500 mm long, bend the 1 end at 90 deg so you can hold it from turning. Flatten the other end somewhat by hammering it flat, then shape the edges to a spearpoint. The hole may be too small, but because it is predrilled, you can now open it up progressively with a normal bit and drill off the lathe.

Brass ferrules are sold by your specialist supplier like Carbatec. The outside diameter is 25 mm and inside is 22 mm by about 17 mm long. In a pinch they can be made from 25 mm copper water pipe but buying the pipe in 1m bits seem like a waste at first.

beejay1
29th March 2005, 06:21 PM
I would suggest that you drill in 3 steps to the approximate width of the tang and to a depth of about 2mm greater than the length of the tang. That way, the handle wont split when the tang is pushed home. Fix it with appropriate epoxy to bond the wood to metal. Tangs can be purchased from some specialist suppliers probably of turning tools or maybe you could make your own from some brass tube?

As for accuracy, you will have your centre point from turning and I would recommend a drill press for that operation as it'll be easier to control the depth on each of the 3 steps.

Final point, make sure the ferrule is on before you marry blade to handlehttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif
beejay1

http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9

gatiep
29th March 2005, 06:29 PM
Yeah drilling in steps like bj1 said is the way to go. Also put the ferrule on before fitting the tang into the handle and most importantly do not hammer the handle onto the tang. Instead, stand the tool on the tip on some scrap wood and then tap the end of the tool onto the wood by lifting it up vertically about 75 mm and letting it drop onto the scrap. Inertia will drive the handle in, repeat a few times. If you do not succeed, turn it so that the handle is on the scrap wood and repeat the dropping process. This assures that the handle doesnt split, which is almost guarranteed to happen if you belt the handle with a hammer. Gentle does it.


:)

Gingermick
29th March 2005, 06:53 PM
Adrian
After turning the handle remove the center pin from your MC900 live center.
Joe, any idea if you can do that to an old teknatool live centre?
Mick

smidsy
29th March 2005, 07:01 PM
Hei Adrian,
I've made a couple of chisels using tool steel blanks from carbatec.
I turn the handle between the spur drive and live centre, then fit and set a 3 point steady at the tail end, swap out the spur drive for a chuck and then drill the handle using a drill chuck and standard bit in the tail stock.

For ferules I just use some copper pipe as that polishes up nicely - my brother is a plumber so I'm up to my neck in off cuts lol.

Before you go out and buy non handled chisels compare prices. My prefered chisels are Hamlett, I got a half inch deep fluted bowl gouge at xmas and the handled version was only $9 more than unhandled. The handles on the Hamlett chisels are a work of art and way better than anything I could make.

Cheers
Paul

Kev Y.
29th March 2005, 08:47 PM
I tended to go another route, I drilled the hole FIRST with the piece held in my drill press, then made an insert to fit into the hole and held that between centres and finished turning the handle. As with most things everyone has a different method that works for them.

Baz
29th March 2005, 09:21 PM
Hi guys, I turn the blank down to round first using the chuck and then drill the hole using a jacobs chuck in the tailstock. Put the live centre back in the tailstock and then finish turning the handle.
Cheers
Barry

powderpost
29th March 2005, 10:45 PM
Another approach to handle making. Leave the blank square, put a drill chuck in the headstock shaft with an appropriate size drill. Put the driving spur into the tailstock. This will help prevent the job turning. With low speed and the blank held on the driving spur with one hand, use the handwheel on the tailstock wind the blank forward onto the drill. When this is done put the driving spur in the headstock, reverse the blank so that the revolving cone is in the hole. Shape the blank to a cylinder and fit the ferrule. I have used hard drawn copper tube, aluminium tube and chrome plated towel rail for ferrules. Turn to the prefered shape. To polish I rub candle wax onto the spinning job and burnish with a handful of shavings. To fit any chisel that has a square or rectangular, use the tang like a reamer until it has about 1" to go, then tap the end of the handle to set the tool. Round shank tools require an accurately sized hole. I have been using this method for about twenty years now, successfully.
Jim

gatiep
30th March 2005, 02:03 AM
Mick,

I'm not sure what that live center looks like but if the morse tapered part of the live center has a hole through it along its axis, then chances are that the centre tip will be removable. Centres with removable/drill through holes like the one supplied with the MC900/1100 are only $27-50.
I assumed that Adrian did not have a drill press or a jacobs chuck for the lathe.If one has both the hole can be drilled in the square timber, then push a good fitting dowel or bolt into it. Mount it between the live center and use a jacobs chuck to hold it on the headstock side. Tighten the jacobs chuck onto the dowel/bolt first before bringing the tailstock up to the wood.Turn the tailstock up tight, turn the handle as usual. After turning remove the dowel and you have a perfectly ligned up hole.

:)

adrian
30th March 2005, 10:09 AM
As usual, quite diverse and very good advice. Thanks guys.

vsquizz
30th March 2005, 10:21 AM
AWR issue 44 has an article on making chisel handles by Richard Raffan.

Cheers