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Bazza
26th October 2012, 09:41 AM
Hi All,
I have just been advised by Cliff that I have a Diamond Point Tool that i thought was a skewart. So does anybody have one and how is it used

Bazza

Cliff Rogers
26th October 2012, 10:51 AM
I had one, hardly ever used it so I reground it for cutting dovetails for chuck mounts.

It can be used for shear scraping.

artme
26th October 2012, 05:38 PM
I had one, hardly ever used it so I reground it for cutting dovetails for chuck mounts.

It can be used for shear scraping.

Why bother cutting dovetails for chuck mounts!:?

Jonzjob
26th October 2012, 09:18 PM
I always cut a dovetail using a skew as a scraper and I do it because my O'Donnel chuck jaws are dovetailed. They give a very good and positive grip.

ian thorn
26th October 2012, 09:44 PM
Hi Bazza that tool is very good if you want to make detail Vs in something like a tool handle just present it lightly with the handle slightly raised try this on a waste spindle

Cheers Ian

Christos
26th October 2012, 09:47 PM
One of the first four tools that purchased when I thought that I might give turning a try. I did use it between centers and then reground to a round nose scraper. :rolleyes:

Now it is actually being used.

powderpost
26th October 2012, 10:06 PM
THey were often found in sets of turning tools, designed to make a "V" cut in a spindle. They were used as a scraper, horizontally, but left a very ragged cut. A skew used vertically, on a slight angle, will make a far better cut, and clean too.
Jim

Bazza
27th October 2012, 07:24 AM
Thank you all for your help, I thought it might be used for spindel turning, might just have a play and see what happens.

Cheers
Barry

Cliff Rogers
27th October 2012, 07:51 AM
Why bother cutting dovetails for chuck mounts!:?So big lumps of wood don't attack my head. :D


I always cut a dovetail using a skew .....So did I until I had a spare bit if good steel to make a dedicated scraper. :wink:

Jonzjob
27th October 2012, 07:57 AM
Get it good and sharp Barry and you have a double handed skew there mate.

A tip for anyone using a rectangular skew with sharpish corners on the blade is to do a slight grind to take the sharp corners off. It makes it a lot easier to transverse the tool across the tool rest and stops it trying to dig in, especially if it's a cast iron rest.

Another thing I do if there are any kind of digs on my cast tool rests is to dig my belt sander out and sand the rest back to a nice smooth surface. It makes a hell of a difference. Done it a couple of times in the past 16 years or so, so it ain't going to wear your rest down.

jimbur
27th October 2012, 10:38 AM
Don't often use it myself but when I do (like Jonz) I use it as a skew.
Cheers,
Jim

artme
27th October 2012, 03:26 PM
I've expounded my theory before on the suject of dovetails. I think cutting them is BS.

Cliff Rogers
28th October 2012, 10:56 AM
I've expounded my theory before on the suject of dovetails. I think cutting them is BS.
Missed it, I always cut them to fit, not hard with tool that is the right shape for the job.

Mobyturns
28th October 2012, 01:19 PM
Depends on the jaws you have on your chucks. Shark jaws its a waste of time, for Nova jaws straight with a slight dovetail for their second bevel, Vicmarc Std jaws I cut the dovetail with a skew for spindle stock, or bowl gouge for bowls & refine with the skew on flat as a neg rake ??? scraper. Much stronger grip matching the bevels of the jaws.

Cliff Rogers
28th October 2012, 02:36 PM
... Shark jaws its a waste of time....Depends on how you use them.

I hate changing jaws so when I am roughing out, I use a big forstner bit to bung a hole in what will be the top of my blank, slap the blank on over the shark jaws & expand them to fit. The bit is just a little larger than the outside diameter of the closed jaws.
That doesn't need bevels 'cos there is a stack of grip.

I rough out what will be the bottom of the bowl & cut a foot to suit gripping with one bevel of the inside of the shark jaws & using my dedicated bevel scraper, I put a bevel on the foot with a neat shoulder for front end of the jaws to square up against.
Then I reverse the bowl onto the shark jaws & rough out the inside the bowl.
I leave a similar spigot in the bottom of the bottom of the bowl & then leave it to dry & go on roughing out more blanks.

Once it is dry, I can then reverse the bowl onto the internal spigot ('cos the shark jaws can reach the bottom of the bowl & still be done up) & true up the foot on the bottom of the bowl (with my dedicated bevel scraper) for remounting.
This is because sometimes the foot has warped a bit.
I then turn the bowl around onto the jaws & finish the job.

If I want to remove/remodel the foot once it is finished, now I can change my jaws to the big bowl/cole jaws.
(I actually hate changing jaws that much that I have a chuck with the big bowl jaws permanently attached but I also try to cut down the number of times I have to change chucks)

If I have more than one to finish, I do them all before I change chucks & remove/remodel the feet.

ian thorn
28th October 2012, 09:36 PM
I've expounded my theory before on the suject of dovetails. I think cutting them is BS.

if you have ever had a piece come out of a set of dovtail jaws you would change your mind :no: it only takes a touch with the skew

Ian