hot glue

[mat_au]

hey all ive noticed in some youtube videos that ppl use hot glue to glue a scrap bit of wood to the bottom of a bowl blank. just wondering if this is strong enough to do so and if no what is and is ther any special way to do this, as i m now to this i dont really want a peice of wood flying off my lathe as i am turning it

[hughie]

Mat, good question I have in the past worked allot with hot melt glues in the packaging industry and have yet to use it in turning. My only reservation with using it is that I dont know what type is on offer. I say this because there are many different types out there each with it particular aspect or strength.

Some swear by it, I am not wholly confident given the way I turn that, thats the way for me to go. So I rely on other methods and when it comes to blocks etc I glue them on with PVA . I do this from time to time with scraps and do several blanks at once, other wise the usual methods chucks, steb centres, screw chucks and the like.

[mat_au]

atm screw the blank to the face plate and cut a tennon at the bottom of the peice but would love to try something else to get a bit more bowl out of my wood. ive heard about pvc glue might try that and see how it goes

[fubar]

I have been using hot glue on smaller pieces the largest being 6"x4" piece of camphour all with no problems . I didnt know there were different types of hot glues so I must have lucked out with the one I'm using

[Mobyturns]

Look up turners like Terry Scott from NZ or Vaughan Richmond WA on Google. They use hot melt glue a lot. One tip if you use hot melt always glue wood to wood not wood to a metal face plate, be carefull in how far you reduce the surface area of the hot melt glue bond surface & doing anything that may generate heat near the glued surfaces. Can have some interesting moments when the glue softens or shears. I have been trialing the Bosch hot melt glue, seems OK. I use it for bonding small (75mm) laminated bowl blanks to waste block spiggots which are then held in a chuck. May seem a strange process but the laminated blanks have a lot of time invested in them so you don’t waste them.

Tecbond Glue Sticks | Glue for Glue Guns | GlueGunsDirect.com (http://www.gluegunsdirect.com/glue-sticks-glue/tecbond-glues)

[nrb]

There was a guy at the WWW show in Melb.that used super glue seemed to work ok,nothing came loose while i was there.

[powderpost]

I do a bit of laminating of 300mm plus diameter bowls and use aquadhere. I do not use paper in the joint as I have had too many fail. I screw a waste block to the face plate and hollow it out to leave a 10 - 12mm wide rim. Something like a small bowl. This rim is made the same outside diameter as of the base of the bowl and the two are glued together using the lathe as a press. I separate them with a hand saw and finish off the bowl bottom by hand.
Jim

[Mobyturns]

Another issue with hot melt is keeping the glue hot enough for a good bond. I use the gun to spread the glue then an electric heat gun (paint stripper type) to remelt the glue before bonding together. Brendan Stemp uses hot melt on very large surfaces as does Terry Scott.

[RETIRED]

Some tips using hot melt glue that Mr Wraight gave me:

The timber must be warm. A Melbourne thing in winter.

If doing a full circle of glue, leave an air gap for the air to escape and the glue to compress.

I use it occasionally for some jobs.

[mat_au]

thanks all ill take it ll on board :D

[turnerted]

I use it frequently to glue tennons on . Iv'e got one on the lathe at the moment about 260mm diam. The only failure Iv'e had, is when I sanded the base of the bowl blank before I glued the tennon on . Maybe the glue needs a bit of a key.I warm up the blank and tennon in a microwave oven before glueing which gives a bit more working time for assembly and I usually put the finished bowl back in the microwave to remove the tennon .
Having said this, you have to be sensible about it. A couple of days ago, I was coreing out a very hard coolabah blank .In this case I glued on a 100mm tennon about 25mm thick using Titebond 3 . I managed to snap the tennon twice but I had just enough wood left to cut a new tennon to remount and got there on the third attempt . I rather doubt that hotmelt would have held on.
Ted

[hughie]

The timber must be warm. A Melbourne thing in winter.
If doing a full circle of glue, leave an air gap for the air to escape and the glue to compress.



further to that do not spread it out like PVA, your better off with a large blob in the centre. Then apply the block squashing the glue outwards to the edges it will tend set immediately as the glue is rapidly thinned out under pressure. It sounds challenging, but not at all as large the blob it will retain almost all of its heat until the flattening.This will also help with the air expulsion, although this is better suited to smaller dia, say a max of 75mm.


.

[Rod Gilbert]

I have used both hot melt glue and double sided tape for small pieces you just need to remember not to get to heavy handed with the cut.
Regards Rod.

[mat_au]

yeah i might have to get someone to show me one day im just a bit worried that it will fly off the lathe had that happen once when i first started

[Tim the Timber Turner]

The yellow hotmelt glue loves Huon Pine.

It usually delaminates the Huon Pine if you try to remove it cold.

It must be a marriage made in heaven, ment to last forever.

Cheers

Tim:)

[joe greiner]

To allow more working time, especially on large joints, I "bake" the wood for about 10 minutes. My oven's minimum temperature is 170F (77C). Clamp until ambient.

For later separation, bake again and pull apart. This is the most benign method I've found for separation; knife on any other temporary glue joints tends to bruise the wood adjacent the joint. Use acetone on any stray remnants for cleanup; evaporates almost immediately.

Cheers,
Joe

[Jonzjob]

Since I started turning, about 15 years back, I started screwing a 2" thick piece of hard pine onto a 4" face plate. Turned to the same size as the face plate and the face turned fala with a series of rings turned onto it to help center small items. I hot glue anything straight onto the face and have found it perfect for platters where you can't use a screw chuck. This is the largest thing I've mounted that way. It's the top for the lazy Susan I did a WIP for a short while back. In this photo it's mounted on my O'Donnel jaws, but the socket for the jaws and the underside was turned while being held with hot glue. 18" diameter and about as large as my Record CL1 will take, even using the large bowl attachment.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Lazys2.jpg

All you have to do is not to spin it up too quick and don't take heavy cuts. Easy to remove too. I just put a block of wood on the back face of the piece, the face that's glued, and whack the block with a soft faced hammer. If the piece is smaller than the face plate just drive a chisel between the piece and the face plate. After it's off I clean up the face plate wood with a spindle gouge, remark the rings if needed and it's ready for the next job. Any glue that's on the piece is removed when you turn the other side..

[brendan stemp]

The problem with hot melt glue is that it can cool down too much before the two surfaces to be glued come together. And it just doesn't work as well when it has cooled, even though it may still be soft.

As Mobyturn said, by re heating the glue with a hot air gun (or hair dryer, I use a butane flame) the chances of it working well are increased significantly. Using this method I have never had it fail and I have glued large surfaces.

[Jonzjob]

I have to admit that I haven't ever had one let go yet.. and I don't warm anything up, apart from the glue. But it is essential to have a look and mark just where the piece is going to sit before you start squirting the hot glue at it.

I have just done a segmented, 13" diameter ring and glued it onto a chipboard backing by just putting 6 not very big spots, one for each segment, and there were no problems with that. No extra heat was used there either

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Wooden%20clock/cclockcasemounted.jpg

I had to very carefully lever it off when it was turned to round and there was no way that is was ever going to fall off. Hot glue is god and the main thing to remember is to get the glue gun up to its proper working temp and not rush it. Switch it on and go and have a cuppa..

[Mulgabill]

To my understanding there are glue sticks and there are glue sticks which are more suitable for use in woodturning. Is this correct and if so, which are the more suitable types/brands and the source of them.

I have in the past, for some reason which I cannot recall, tried to use the yellowish coloured sticks instead of the cheaper white or clear sticks.:?

[jimbur]

An interesting post especially for a stick-in-the-mud like me (didn't mean the pun) who still uses hide glue with a sheet of paper in between to aid separation. Perhaps I'll dig the glue gun out from wherever I put it.
Cheers,
Jim

[hughie]

]To allow more working time, especially on large joints, I "bake" the wood for about 10 minutes. My oven's minimum temperature is 170F (77C). Clamp until ambient.



Knowing what I do about hot melt glue I say that this is a damn fine idea :2tsup:

One of the problems buying these DIY glue sticks over the counter is that you have no way of knowing what your getting. So you cant specify this or that grade etc, unlike in the packaging industry where there are several manufacturers with several grades each.

[mkypenturner]

i use they yellow glue sticks they are BOSTIK brand i get mine from hereS/E QLD Woodworking Supplies (http://www.woodworkingsuppliesqld.com.au/) just give him a call as not listed on site
i also have 2 guns the first is a "ARROW " 100watter it really melts and i reckin nearly boils the glue it get that hot and stay liquid for a while to allow setups on some stuff
and the other gun ken wraight put me onto it its a BOSCH it has a long nozzle about 40mm long to reach into the small gaps on certain project

AND the most important trick ken told me was to unattach the item use acetone as it softens it and make for a easy removal , carefull as it can stain some lighter timbers

[Colin62]

I use masking tape on the workpiece (which peels off easily leaving no adhesive behind) and then use the hot melt glue to hold that onto a piece of sacrifcial timber screwed onto the faceplate.

[Drillit]

Hello mat-au,
I hope this reply works as I am (& others) are having trouble with submitting threads due to the upgrade of our Forum's system. I have written to the Administrators about that.
I wanted to put down for general consumption, my way of using glue chucks for bowls and platters.
Firstly, I had 3 glue chucks (all) made from block aluminium about 25mm thick and are 75, 90 and 110mm diam. - one has a left hand thread for the outboard.
I take the glue chuck and place it on an old iron that I hold in a vise. I heat up the chuck and place glue on it and I simply cut off pieces from the glue stick. I dont use a glue gun or heat gun.
I then place the piece on a flat surface and place the chuck on it to a premarked area (pencil around the outside of the chuck) noting specially the centre point that I punch in the point. Be careful in lifting the hot chuck. I have two holes bored into the side where I insert a piece of steel & pliers to lift. Be generous with the glue and spread when melting. I then place a lump of steel that I keep in the freezer section an old fridge on the hot alo and wait for it to cool. I then screw onto lathe and test adhesion when screwing tight. Turn the outside. Make sure you bring up the tailstock if the piece is out of balance. The point of the tailstock live centre is important mark for when you reverse the chuck for hollowing. To remove the chuck , place the whole piece on the iron and reheat the chuck. Slide off, add more glue for reversing - same process. To clean off glue scrape off with an old chisel and clean up with mineral turps. Good as gold.
While I am very careful, I have not had a piece come off a glue chuck - but I stress be generous with the glue. I dont think it matters whether you use the clear or yellow glue sticks. I have found them all satisfactory, although some prefer the yellow sticks (I think from Bosch). I am happy to try to answer any questions and stress that all chucks have a purpose and this is but one option. Drillit.