Washer behind a Nova chuck?

[rsser]

I wonder whether any of you folk have found a good solution to packing the gap between a Nova chuck and the lathe spindle boss.

There's about a 5mm gap on my lathe. The spindle is 30mm diameter.

One supplier suggested turning up an MDF washer and I've done this but it's only going to last a few uses. The flat side of the nut on the insert is quite narrow and to get the chuck to run true takes a bit of tightening. That's crushing the fibres.

I've made up an alternative out of polypropylene chopping board and despite careful facing, sometimes it runs true and sometimes not.

Then I bought a large stamped washer but that's slightly dished.

I've heard of delrin spacers but a google search threw up only one result: for Meccano vehicles.

Other suggestions ran to turning washers out of hardwood, or a machinist's bushing - but I'm not keen on shelling out to have one of those made.

Any other options you could recommend?

TIA

[Gingermick]

I have leather on mine.
mick

[bitingmidge]

Leather here too.

P

[Cliff Rogers]

..... the gap between a Nova chuck and the lathe spindle boss.

There's about a 5mm gap on my lathe. The spindle is 30mm diameter.....
G'day Ern, what is you lathe?

I have a Vicmarc 300 & the Super Novas fit fine, no need for backing.

Maybe the Nova Titan has a shallower insert.

If I had to, I'd go for leather or copper if you could find a bit thick enough.

[Mulgabill]

As I had a similar gap, I had a brass collar turned from a pulley thimble. It has worked a treat and will out-last me!

[smidsy]

It wouldn't be that hard to make a washer if all else fails.
Start with a square peice of 50mm x 5mm flat bar, get it roughly round with an angle grinder.
Drill a small hole (say 1/4) in the middle and mount it on the lathe using a Jacobs chuck and a bolt in the chuck.
Use a dremel or angle grinder with the lathe on low speed to get the outside completely round.
To do the inside you can either buy a 30mm drill bit (pricey) or use the dremel to carve it out - my choice.

Before you do all that though find a specialty fastener supplier, I know you can get 30mm bolts so you must be able to get 30mm washers.
Cheers
Paul

[rsser]

Thanks guys - good ideas. Tho a bit daunting fer a bloke wot works in wood cos he's no good with metal.

Russell .. where'd you get your thimble turned?

Paul .. I bought a stamped washer that was about 27mm internal, and had a go a opening it out with some small grinding bits. No joy - opening a bit eccentric, and washer remained a bit dished.

Cliff, it's a Vicmarc 175. Have been told that as it's a few years old, (around 3 - 4) the spindles weren't then threaded right down to the boss (tho they are now).

Looking at the insert that came with the Titan, it's clear that the first turn or two were not formed or were ground off (on the headstock side).

[Mulgabill]

Ern,
If you would like to pm me with the dimensions (ie inside diam, outside diam and width for the gap) I will see if my son can schedule it in soonish and I will post it to you.

[RETIRED]

Looking at the insert that came with the Titan, it's clear that the first turn or two were not formed or were ground off (on the headstock side).
It is to allow it to seat against the spindle which it ain't doing on yours. :(

I have used brass washers turned to take up the slack on some of mine. Turned on a wood lathe. Wear glasses DAMHIKT. :mad:

[rsser]

I have used brass washers turned to take up the slack on some of mine. Turned on a wood lathe. Wear glasses DAMHIKT. :mad:

Thanks .

I wear glasses to do everything these days. Well, almost everything; can manage Braille for some things ;)

But what does DAMHIKT mean??

[barnsey]

DAMHIKT

Don't ask Him How He Know's That

It's obviously embarassing.:rolleyes:

In the past I've used the stuff that plumbing washers are made of. You know that red stuff ;) Designed to seat, reseat and reseat which is what you want :p

Hope that helps.

Jamie

[ubeaut]

I have a number of perspex washers some clear and some white (don't know why the different colour) have used them since I can remember on all my lathes and with all screw on chucks. Not only do they seat the chuck really well and hold like glue, but they stop the chuck from binding to the drive shaft, and allow for easy removal without the need to resort to bashing the chuck about.

I also have a couple of highly polished, machined, metal washers (look like stainless steel but not sure) that are used for the same purpose but sometimes let the chuck bind, so I don't use them much any more.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

[rsser]

Thanks Neil.

Would prob. need about three of them, introducing 'stacking induced run-out error'. SIRE! A new disease. Maybe I can make some dough out of it.

[Coldamus]

Maybe these are what you're looking for:

http://store.yahoo.com/gpwoodturning/nolockwashers.html

At 4 bucks each, much easier than making them yourself.

regards
Coldamus

[Keith H]

G'day Ern

Work out your dimmensions (OD, ID and Width) you need and I will make you one. Send details to [email protected] I live just down the road from you so delivery is not an issue.
regards
Keithhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif

PS at no cost! Happy to help a fellow woodturner

[rsser]

Hi Keith,

Thats a very kind offer - many thanks.

Mulgabill has already asked his son to turn one up so looks like the problem is solved.

And welcome to the forum. What kind of turning are you into at the moment?

[Keith H]

Hi Ern

Thanks for the welcome. I try to be versitle and have a go at just about everything, some good results but still a lot of firewood being made (that's life!)
I seem to be getting a buz from building jigs, fixtures and tools at this stage. My next project is to build a deep hollowing tool with the laser pointer to guage wall thickness.
Work keeps getting in the way so I think it may turn into a longer task than first thought.
What about yourself?

Keithhttp://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif

[westpest]

Ern

If you have any delays with washer CarbaTec Perth have had some made just for the 175 thats where I got mine from, perhaps Gatiep can respond as to if they have any in stock at the moment. It really makes all chucks fit nice and firm it is nice solid steel also...

[rsser]

Thanks folks, and esp. Russell; problem solved.

I'm similar to you Keith; have had a go at most things (except candle sticks ;-} ). Next challenge for me too is deep hollowing/semi-enclosed forms. And carving/texturing.

I use an old-style Munro hollower but this won't be up to the size of the lumps of timber lined up so I'd be interested to hear how you go with your contraption. I was thinking of an Oland style tip mounted in a cranked steel bar that's been talked about elsewhere on the forum.

Saw Guilio Marcolongo demo deep hollowing with, among other things, a scraper tip mounted in the end of a crow bar. Quite something.

[Keith H]

G'day Ern
I also saw that demonstration. I know that he did not get any tool bounce due to the weight of the thing, and the leverage advantage was as good as you can get (400mm overhang into the vessel and 1.5m behind the tool rest). Just goes to show what you can do if you set your mind to it!!! But then, Guilio is well known for doing things nobody else has done. Very enlightening demo and glad I was there.
Will take some pics of the "contraption" when its finished

Has anybody else made a deep hollowing tool using the laser as the tip position indicator?

Catcha later
Keith

[rsser]

Looked a bit comic didn't it ... one good dig and he would've been flung skywards ;-}

There are some website pages in the US I think covering hollowing with laser pointers.

[bobsreturn2003]

best way is to find a friend with a metal lathe and turn the chuck adaptor out so the chuck fits hard against the spindle . ony a small job ,and you dont need to find the washer amongst the shavings , best of luck bob