WIP 2nd bowl

[Pilchard]

Qld Maple again, this time i am trying a curved inside, not as easy as it looks with only a 1" gouge. I assume when i finally get a bowl gouge the tear out issues i am having will lessen?? This one was a bit easier as i learnt how the gouge behaves on the inside of the curve of the first one.

Sanded to 320grit.

http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/deanrounsley/DSCF3002-22_zpsa66438d5.jpg

the setup on the face plate

http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww317/deanrounsley/DSCF3004-12_zps05b09abf.jpg

yes that is a bird cage in the back ground, funny thing it turned out he was alergic to wood of all things and fell off the perch:;


piece stuck down with loads of CA and sacrificial pine screwed to face plate.


Bowl is 180x60.


Quick question, what are the streakes you can see in piccy 2 they seem to go away once wax is applied but wont sand away??

thanks.

[RETIRED]

They are called tear out or maybe scratches from previous grits.

They don't actually go away when you wax it. Have a look in sunlight and you will see them.:wink:

Tool technique and sharprness (bluntness?) is the main cause. Not removing the marks from the previous grit of sandpaper is the other.

I would be very wary of using CA. PVA or hot melt is a lot better in my opinion.

Good start though with the limits you have on you, i.e. tools and and self teaching.:D

[RETIRED]

P.S. be careful about screwing into end grain as well. Cross grain is much stronger.

[shedbound]

Very nice, love that Queensland Maple

[Mobyturns]

P.S. be careful about screwing into end grain as well. Cross grain is much stronger.


I agree with , looks like and end grain waste / support block! :no: Another thought end grain to end grain glue joints are very weak & end grain to face grain not much better. Use a face grain waste block much much safer. :2tsup:

Very nice work on the bowl, you will get those marks out with practice and some encouragement from a tutor. :wink:

[Pilchard]

Got to waxing last night and yes today streaks are still visible, so back to the tools and paper. It's surprising what a dim workshop will hide:-

thanks for the pointers about glue and end grain etc. will be picking up a hot glue gun today and using the blocks side on. Would hardwood blocks be better as I have plenty of those laying around waiting for the fireplace.
cheers

[artme]

You are going great guns Dean!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

My first efforts were not so successful!:no:

[hughie]

I reckon with say a 12mm/1/2 bowl gouge and have sharp enough to shave with for your final cuts, much of your problem will be alleviated. I would suggest when you get your bowl gouge check how smooth finish is on the flute, ideally as smooth as a babies bum. Some are not that smooth and this effect your ability to produce a consistent edge.

If your struggling with sanding marks after that, maybe you need to look at the method

ie perhaps a inertia sander or a random orbital sander set up

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/diy-sanding-pdf-134043/

http://www.woodworkforums.com/search.php?searchid=612593