Waterproof finish on turned bowl - advice required

[BradleyBob]

I am relatively new to turning and volunteering at a community centre making bowls and other items for sale with the proceeds going to the centre. We use the EEE wax for most bowls and I have also used Organ oil Hard Burnishing Oil. The wax tends to mark if it gets wet, maybe we are not applying it correctly. The oil is OK but I am not sure how long it will last when washed.

Can I please have some suggestions re finishing off a turned object that will give a waterproof surface that can be wiped out with a wet cloth.

Thanks, Bob.

[China]

"Rustins Plastic Coating"

[Master Splinter]

3-4-5 coats of boatbuilding epoxy.

[pommyphil]

I use a few coats of WOP .....wipe on poly......clear satin...by Minwax. Bunnys stock it.

[RETIRED]

EEE is not a finish. It is an abrasive. See here: http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/using-shellawax-131234/

As others have said, unless you cover it in epoxy you might as well make it out of plastic.

Most finishes, if done properly will survive a damp cloth.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

For the inside of goblets, etc. which may contain fluids for quantities of time, I'm with China: I seal the inside section with Rustin's Plastic Finish. Never had a 'red wine' stained goblet come back yet. :wink::rolleyes:

But it does feel 'plasticky' to the touch so I usually finish the outside sections in these cases with Danish Oil. Much more tactile.

However, as with all my turned 'utility pieces' I also warn the owner that it should only be rinsed in warm water and wiped dry immediately. On the odd occasion I've had complaints (which I suspect were from ignoring my advice and using a bloody dishwasher) it has been easy enough to restore the finish with another coat of DO.

Then leave it on my shelves for a month 'to cure' before handing it back... :D

FWIW, after applying any finish that will be washed/cleaned, it's a damned good idea to set the piece aside for a month or three before using it. Gives the finish time to harden properly and be less susceptible to marking.

[BradleyBob]

Thank you all for the tips. I did have a typo, we use EEE followed by Shellawax. That tutorial on those products is great, thanks, I have printed it and will show all the guys in the centre.
There are enough products listed for us to try, and I will remember the curing tip.

Thanks again,
Bob.