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Beedeejay
7th March 2013, 12:18 AM
Hi All,
I am starting to make some handles for some different turning tools, and i was just wondering what would be some good timber to use,
Is the harder the better?
I would like to use something that is relatively nice to look at ( i know they are only chisels but i look at them everyday)
Any comments & or ideas?
Cheers Ben

MAPLEMAN
7th March 2013, 02:19 AM
Forest Red Gum (figured) would be one i'd recommend...but there would be quite a few different species suitable for handles...Blackwood,Spotted Gum,River Red Gum..the list could be endless :rolleyes:...:2tsup:

dr4g0nfly
7th March 2013, 02:37 AM
I'd suggest anything that takes a good smooth finish, can handle a knock and does not splinter easily.

Old-Biker-UK
7th March 2013, 07:17 AM
I'd suggest anything that takes a good smooth finish, can handle a knock and does not splinter easily.

:whs: + all my chisels have handles of different woods or shapes it makes it easier to pick the right one off the rack.

Mark

robo hippy
7th March 2013, 07:19 AM
Probably just about any wood will work. Most important would be having straight grain, and if you want to be real fussy, you split a blank off a lot or board so the grain lines up all the way down. Having a good ferrule on the shaft where the tool is set into the wood is next most important consideration. Softer woods will work, but you don't need the hardest ones out there. Hickory and Ash are used a lot over here. Hickory is what most of our shovel, pick and axe, and hammer handles are made from. Great for shock absorbing, and being able to flex without breaking. I have been tempted to make some out of cabinet grade plywood (baltic birch) just for the look.

robo hippy

pommyphil
7th March 2013, 08:31 AM
For the bulk buy skew chisels I used Paperbark ( Melaleuca sp ) from the garden and copper tube ferrule,

strong, smooth and free.

Phil

brendan stemp
7th March 2013, 08:41 AM
I prefer a heavy timber, so I go for buloke. I like heavy handles, especially on my gouges because they tend to act as an extra counter weight/force to the force on the other end; ie at the cutting edge.

I like buloke because it has interesting figure and colour. While this doesn't effect the performance of the tool it is just nice to pick up and handle nice timbers on a regular basis.

artme
7th March 2013, 08:47 AM
I've used Northern Silky Oak (Cardwellia Subliminus),Old Oregon,and various native species.

FenceFurniture
7th March 2013, 08:58 AM
+1 for Bull Oak/Buloke/Bloke. Turns well, takes a great finish, tough as, and yup, feels good in the hand. Mulga would rate about the same, as would Dead Finish (but might be a little harder to procure).

Here is a bunch of Rasp/File handles that IanW made for me about a year ago. There's a whole swag of species in there, unspecified Acacias, She Oak, Bull Oak, Mulga, Wilga, Blackwood, Hairy Oak, Gidgee, Beefwood, Cooktown Ironwood, Jarrah, Forest Red Gum Qld Walnut. None of them have failed, all beautiful and functional. One or two of the ferrules came loose with timber contractions, bit a few drops of red Loctite fixed that in a flash.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/members/62924-fencefurniture/albums/liogier-rasps/229720-45-handles-done-small.jpg


Certainly they are good enough to be exported to Europe. See here (http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/accessories/australian-handles.html)

A few days ago I was discussing the virtues of Qld Maple for handles with Ian, and he agrees that it would be very suitable as well.

Skew ChiDAMN!!
7th March 2013, 11:02 AM
My chisel handles are my "experiments."

It's often easier to replace a small billet for making a tool handle than a blank to make a bowl, so if I come across a piece of timber I haven't turned before I'll often handle a chisel with it.

If, during turning, I decide it's too 'splintery' or whatever for a tool handle then it's usually also too 'whatever' for turning in general! And so I haven't wasted a lot of my time trying to make a silk purse outta a sows ear. :D

As a bonus, it makes many of my tools easy to identify at a glance. (Well... it does if I only lay out a few at a time; if I lay them all out it's like trying to one particular colour M&M from a jar full of 'em.)

Beedeejay
7th March 2013, 11:02 AM
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the tips and info,
Gums I can get easily, my Dad has a nice little stockpile under his house from having used to work in a saw mill 20+ years ago:D, I would just have to wait for him to visit though ( 7+hr drive)
Another timber I like the look of is Red Ash ( the local club has a fair bit of it) how do you reckon it would go?
I was going to use crows ash but I think I would prefer a darker timber
Cheers Ben

orraloon
7th March 2013, 02:16 PM
I tend to think on the safety side when handeling turning tools so a wood that has a bit of flex in it. Especially on the tools that take a lot of strain like large scrapers, bowl gouges, roughing gouges and hollowers. Spotted gum would be the first pick in the aus woods as it is used for commercial tool handles. Ironbark would fit the bill for weight and looks great. It really polishes up nice on the lathe. I have also been using mulberry for handles when I can find it. I guess other fruit woods like apple and plum would work too to get the flex and looks.
Regards
John

Mobyturns
7th March 2013, 08:56 PM
I'm not that sure I would like to use Hairy Oak or some she oaks for heavy duty handles as they tend to be brittle and split readily. I have had access to quite a bit of 50mm thick Kwilia and Tas Oak off cuts which both make nice turning tool handles. I think P&N use spotted gum which gives plenty of heft to a tool handle which I like.

Paul39
8th March 2013, 02:29 AM
I have made some from table legs and bed posts from discards set out on trash day. Some were oak, some rock maple.

I also split locust into blanks from firewood. Very heavy tough wood. I just got some ipe which is heavy and has a nice figure, but one must use a good mask and dust removal as the chips and dust are hard on the lungs.

I like heavy handles to add stability and reduce bounce when cutting out of round or alternating hard - soft pieces.

Walnut and cherry are also nice.

robo hippy
8th March 2013, 12:18 PM
I still roll my eyes at the 'Old Oregon' wood, being from Oregon. Douglas Fir if I remember correctly. I would think it a bit soft, but probably would work. I have a number of cherry and apple handles, as well as ash and walnut.

robo hippy

chuck1
9th March 2013, 10:37 AM
I'm all for hardwood handles ive got jarrah, tallowood, American ash, Tassie oak,and the list goes on. I try to make them different for I.D. the joy of working in the timber industry

FenceFurniture
9th March 2013, 11:24 AM
I still roll my eyes at the 'Old Oregon' wood, being from Oregon. Douglas Fir if I remember correctly. I would think it a bit soft, but probably would work. I have a number of cherry and apple handles, as well as ash and walnut.

robo hippy

Indeed RH. If you ever get some Huon Pine sent over, make sure they label it as "Tasmania".

dai sensei
9th March 2013, 04:45 PM
Most hardwoods would be fine, but I make mine from Rose Sheoak for the strength and colour (very similar to WA Sheoak and Bull Oak)

Beedeejay
9th March 2013, 11:41 PM
Thanks guys,
Some of these timbers I've never heard of so it is going to be fun trying to get hold of some to experience for myself!!:D

Beedeejay
20th March 2013, 04:51 PM
Hi All,
I ended going with a bit of Red ash for this chisel, just a spindle gouge, nice grain I think,
I like the idea if making them all out of different timbers so they are more distinctive when grabbing from the rack

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Cheers Ben

issatree
20th March 2013, 05:54 PM
Hi All,
Well, this is a very interesting Topic.
Firstly, I look to the Shape of My Handles.
Personally I like Richard Raffan's Handles,
which are in his Book, " Turning Wood ".
I've just made 3 from Black She Oak, & it is very nice Wood.
I use Cypress, ( Not Pine ) Jarrah, not keen on Red Gum, European Ash, Claret Ash, Desert Ash, Apple, Cotoneaster, Photinia, Apricot, Plum, etc.
I also make them approx. 13in. - 330mm. & use a lot of Aluminum Chair Tube, as Ferrules, easy to obtain, cheap & polishes up great with 0000 Steel Wool.
Usually only finish them with Beeswax,
I Sign them, with Maker, Town/City, Date & Wood Type.
Very interesting to go back & see the age of the Handle, & then you know you have been Turning for quite awhile.