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View Full Version : Laminated Rolling Pin - How to glue up??



Donnie
26th April 2005, 02:28 AM
Ok, I admit it... being Canadian, I'm too dumb to figure out how John Engstrom laminated his blank to turn the rolling pin as displayed at:

http://www.mnwoodturners.com/gallery1.html

I'd like to turn one of these myself so I'm asking you smart folk from down under to explain it to me. (Please use small words so I can understand.)

Donnie

PAH1
26th April 2005, 09:52 AM
Looks more like inlay/marquetry to me than lamination. That is small layers of wood added on to the surface to make the pattern rather than solid pieces in the blank.

RETIRED
26th April 2005, 08:28 PM
Me too.

bitingmidge
26th April 2005, 08:33 PM
Look carefully!

I think that it's a "normal" laminated job, with the laminates at an angle, but it's been very cleverly done, and photographed from a clever angle as well.

My guess is that what appears to be interlocking elipses are really crossed laminations, and the angle of the pin is "just right" to make them look continuous.

Reason: The laminations change from one side of the elipse to the other, and the elipses are not continuous, they just happen to change direction (overlap) at the edge of the pin. Very cleverly conceived I reckon!

Now if I had only paid the upgrade fees for MidgeCad2dLite, I could even draw it??

Rocker????

Cheers,

P

bitingmidge
26th April 2005, 08:58 PM
Just had a bash in MidgeCad3d :D and I reckon that it's simple.

All four laminations are at the same angle, and start at the same reference point on the blank, one per face on a square blank.

When turned this results in the appearance of four elipses of equal size on the curved face, and they appear to be interlocking at the angle of the photograph, (and from the other side as well, or from the top or the bottom come to think of it).

... now I really have to go and do one to prove it.... in pine and oregon 'cause that's all I have in stock!

Cheers,

P

Caliban
26th April 2005, 10:02 PM
Just had a bash in MidgeCad3d :D and I reckon that it's simple.

All four laminations are at the same angle, starting at the same reference point on the blank, and each starts 90° apart ie one per face on a square blank.

This gives four elipses of equal size and the appearance of interlocking at this angle and in fact from the other side as well. Well actually from all four "sides"... now I really have to go and do one.... in pine and oregon 'cause that's all I have in stock!

Cheers,

P
Ok Midge you've got me ya smooth talking bastard. How about a squizz at the pictures for those dumbos who don't understand midgetalk that doesn't rhyme.
Oh, by the way I'm back after a period of computerlessness.

Donnie
26th April 2005, 10:24 PM
Hey, I knew you folks from down under could figure this out. I think it has something to do with all that extra blood that rushes to your head from being upsidedown all day ... compared to us folk in the northern hemisphere who are rightsideup.

Now, if I could just figure our what the heck you're talking about in your explaination... Please use small words and pictures eh???.

Still completely in the dark...

Donnie

bitingmidge
26th April 2005, 10:40 PM
OK, Pictures it is.... but this may take a few days!! :D :D :D

The result won't be as neat as I haven't figured the exact positions or diameter of the finished product, but it should prove the point.

1) Slice at the desired angle (the steeper the better the effect, but because my mitre gauge went to 60° and it's nearly bedtime, that's what I chose) and glue in the first lamination.

2) (Tomorrow) Rotate Blank quarter of a turn (90°) and slice the opposite angle using a similar laminate (I'll use the same because I have a bit of ply in my bin!)

Stay tuned.... this will either work.... or it won't!!!

Cheers,

P

Robert WA
26th April 2005, 10:44 PM
Hey, I knew you folks from down under could figure this out. I think it has something to do with all that extra blood that rushes to your head from being upsidedown all day ... compared to us folk in the northern hemisphere who are rightsideup.

Now, if I could just figure our what the heck you're talking about in your explaination... Please use small words and pictures eh???.

Still completely in the dark...

Donnie

Whaddayameen "upsidedown"

ptc
27th April 2005, 11:55 AM
Gee tassy is right at the top.

bitingmidge
27th April 2005, 11:50 PM
Thanks for all the votes of confidence fellas!! I'm going to look a real goose if this doesn't work!!

Never been afraid of that before, so why stop now!

Must have been a bit tired last night; when I undid the clamps on the first lamination this morning half of it fell off..... I'd glued one of the wedges and one face of the insert and put the two glued faces together before clamping! :o :o :o

Below is the sequence of cutting/gluing and the lessons learnt on the way.

Note: This was/is intended as a prototype to prove the concept, so I was a bit hastier than I would normally be... all cuts are straight off the band saw...I would at least true them with a plane but probably cut them on a table saw in a purpose built jig. It's clear that accuracy will help in the end!!

See above for pic 1) Slice at the desired angle (the steeper the better the effect, but because my mitre gauge went to 60° and it's nearly bedtime, that's what I chose) and glue in the first lamination. I used a bit of 12mm ply for the exercise

2) Rotate Blank quarter of a turn (90°) and slice the SAME angle (note last night I described this as the opposite angle!)using a similar laminate (I'll use the same because I have a bit of ply in my bin!)

IMPORTANT: Cut a slice out of the blank EXACTLY equal to the width of the insert, or the re-glued pieces won't line up correctly in the middle of the piece. You will see this in the next picture! I sort of sighted the width and whipped it off on the band saw and this is the result!

3) Rotate Blank another quarter of a turn (90°) and slice the OPPOSITE angle using a different laminate (I used a bit of camphor that was on the floor at the time) Once again make sure you cut a slice out of the blank equal to the width of the insert. See the bit cut out at this stage, and how the original bits don't cross exactly!! :mad:

4) Rotate Blank another quarter of a turn (90°) and slice the same angle and similar laminate as #3 Once again make sure you cut a slice out of the blank equal to the width of the insert. Notice the bit cut out at this stage (bottom right), and while the original bits don't cross exactly, I got it right on the last two!! :)

I found that it was better to line the cuts up on the diagonal when clamping, rather than trying to ensure the sides remained in line.

Clamping was easy, two clamps as shown are all it takes.

Now let's see what happens tomorrow night....will the geometry work???

I obviously think so, but think with a longer piece and shallower angles it would have been a bit easier to get a closer match to the rolling pin... this one may not be recognisable!

Cheers,

P (If any of the above needs clarification, please let me know!)
:) :eek: :eek: :eek: :p

Donnie
28th April 2005, 12:50 AM
Oh-Great-One:

Wow...looks like you really got this thing figured out. I am VERY impressed!! Looks like I asked the question to the right people. Can't wait to try this for myself.

Biting at the bit to see this prototype of yours... (no pressure).

I'm also impress with the number of reads the BB picks up daily, and so far haven't witnessed any crap that usually appears when there's an audience this big. Great job all round. I plan to make this site part of my daily stops.

Donnie from Canada

bitingmidge
28th April 2005, 12:57 AM
and so far haven't witnessed any crap that usually appears when there's an audience this big.
(Deleted all the other words 'cause they are too early- it's just a theory!!!) :eek: :eek:

As far as crap is concerned.... you really haven't looked too far have you Donnie? :D :D :D :D :D

We don't just like crap round here...WE LOVE IT!!!!

Cheers,

P
:D :D :D

RETIRED
28th April 2005, 01:02 AM
I don't! :D Good job so far Midge.

bitingmidge
28th April 2005, 01:09 AM
I don't! :D

I didn't mean THAT crap, I meant the OTHER crap!!!
:D :D :D

P

TimberNut
28th April 2005, 10:28 AM
Midge,

Looks like you've got us all thinking around corners! Way to go!

I reckon there will be a few turners laminating timber this weekend!

Whether or not it works out exactly as you expect, post pictures anyway so we can see how it comes out (and any other turners out there tinkering with this over the weekend - let's see what results you get).

Donnie's post has got those creative juices flowing.

Its refreshing to see some simple concepts applied in a unique way.

Keep 'em coming.......

( - I'm with you - More information and idea sharing - leave the crap and stupid comments out of it)

bitingmidge
28th April 2005, 06:18 PM
PHEw!!!!!

(Big sigh of relief!!!)

Wagged the last half hour of work today so I could see if I was right!! I reckon I was pretty close to the mark... now just wish I'd taken a bit more care, picked a better lump of stuff etc etc.

Got my first order already! :rolleyes:

I forgot to mention above that I have been using "yellow" pva.. it sets quickly and I could cut and shut within two hours. I waited overnight till I turned though!

Although clearly a mock-up, using the different laminates also worked nicely, and I particularly like the camphor white to red transition, and the opposing grain effect brought about by gluing two veneers together in an "end-on-bookmatch" if that is understandable!!

Happy to have been of service!! :D :D :D

(I have posted also a pic of all four elevations of the blank before turning)

I think we need this thread to post pics of everyone else's attempt now!!

Cheers,

P

Sprog
28th April 2005, 06:55 PM
When you have finished the rolling pin you can then try one of these :D :D

Polychromatic Bowls (http://www.woodturns.com/articles/projects/max_krimmel/square_plan/index.htm)

Mulgabill
28th April 2005, 07:02 PM
Well done Midge!
A well tought out solution. When you see this in stages as you have shown, it opens up many possibilities. I shall be bookmarking this post for future reference.

Sturdee
28th April 2005, 07:25 PM
Well done Midge. This post should go in the Best of the Best.

Peter.

ozwinner
28th April 2005, 07:48 PM
Good one Midge.
I see the brain has been doing overtime!!


Al :D

MajorPanic
28th April 2005, 07:55 PM
Bloody Hell Midge!!!

You have done EXCEPTIONALLY well working that out http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon14.gif









































































Now get BACK TO WORK!!!!!!!!

(can't praise him too much or he won't talk to me)

E. maculata
28th April 2005, 08:19 PM
What the rest of the lads have said very impressive so far, now as the Major said, get back to work & quickly, if this works as simply as that, the possibilities are endless.
BTW No pressure at all, none, zip, nada, zilch......... :p

Donnie
28th April 2005, 08:35 PM
Great work! Have my first slice in the clamps and hope to have a finished product by the weekend. (Dam - I have to work for a living and it's interfering with my hobbies.) I post a pic when it's done.

Again, a sincere thanks from up here in the northern hemisphere.

Donnie

Gingermick
28th April 2005, 11:01 PM
Where can I get a copy of midgecad 3d? I've got to teach some blokes at work cad principles and I think they should start with something simple http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gifmick


ps Its really simple, (after someone told you how to do it http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon9.gif)
cheers midge

dai sensei
29th April 2005, 09:16 PM
Well done Midge, you got me thinking about doing one.

I went for a bit smaller and tried to make a pen using the technique. I used red gum with silver ash shims the thickness of a bandsaw blade. This avoided worrying about cutting out the slices. I also used Mitre Fix to glue it together so I didn't have to wait for the glue to dry. Unfortunately the 10 seconds drying time of this stuff for each cut was little bit too short. I didn't get them lined up each time and a little bit out makes a big difference to the final size of the pattern. It didn't matter to me because I was still happy with the result, although my joints could certainly be better next time.

Thanks Midge for showing me the way.

bitingmidge
1st May 2005, 12:26 AM
I didn't get them lined up each time and a little bit out makes a big difference to the final size of the pattern. It didn't matter to me because I was still happy with the result, although my joints could certainly be better next time.
Thanks Midge for showing me the way.

It's been a pleasure!!

I can see that this stuff can become just another addiction!

Love the pen though, anyone game to go smaller??

Cheers,

P

Rocker
1st May 2005, 08:48 PM
Where can I get a copy of midgecad 3d? I've got to teach some blokes at work cad principles and I think they should start with something simple http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon10.gifmick



Midge suggested I try it in TurboCAD. This was the best I could come up with.

Rocker

mingus
1st May 2005, 11:18 PM
I had a go in another 3-d modelling program (solid edge) it looks a bit strange cos i didn't fill the gaps, just cut them through, but you get the idea. This is particularly obvious in the second pic where you can see the background!

Caliban
2nd May 2005, 10:35 PM
It's been a pleasure!!

I can see that this stuff can become just another addiction!

Love the pen though, anyone game to go smaller??

Cheers,

P



Midge
You do realise that this leaves me without a guru in the "never finish anything" department! Lucky you didn't turn the handles or it would be complete. :eek:
Great job by the way. :D

bitingmidge
2nd May 2005, 10:49 PM
Midge
You do realise that this leaves me without a guru in the "never finish anything" department! Lucky you didn't turn the handles or it would be complete. :eek:
Great job by the way. :D

Thanks Jim, but never fear, after two long weekends on the trot, I've got a new Drill Press Table started, done a bit more on the penultimate router table (but not yet functional :D ), a half completed sharpening jig and finally some of the incomplete DC ducting pulled down ready to re-route!!

And that's just the jobs I STARTED last week!

I'd list some of the other projects underway, but the World Wide Web isn't big enough to hold the list!!

:D :D :D

P

Donnie
3rd May 2005, 12:11 PM
Thanks to Midge, I was able to make a prototype of the rolling pin and a jig to help cut the blank at the appropriate angle. If anyone is interested, I took a few crude pics and added some measurements. Tried to convert everything to metric for you folks down under, but you better double check my figures to make sure.

ffice:office" /><O:p></O:p>

The rolling pin blank is 2 ¾” x 2 ¾” x 23” or 70mm x 70mm x 600mm

Each of the 4 laminates (inserts) are 2 ¾” x ¼” x 13 ½” or 70mm x 6mm x 350mm

This will produce ellipses that are 10 ½” or 270 mm long. (see pic #1)

<O:p></O:p>

The jig allows you to cut halfway through the blank on the first pass, then flip everything over and complete the cut on the second pass. The same end of the blank always is placed against the jig for all four cuts. (See pic #2)<O:p></O:p>

<O:p></O:p>

Took some measurements of the jig. (See pic #3) In case you can't make them out:

A - 160mm or 6 1/4"

B - 115mm or 4 5/8"

C - 400mm or 15 3/4"

D - 50mm or 2"

<O:p></O:p>

Donnie

<O:p></O:p>

Bob Willson
3rd May 2005, 02:14 PM
Peter
I am truly astounded at the type of brain that can look at a piece like this and see how it is made. Apply to Mensa, they are looking for a new leader.

Even , who earns his living (in part at least) making turned things thought that it was just a clever bit of inlaying.

100 more greenies for you. :D

RETIRED
3rd May 2005, 03:09 PM
Peter
I am truly astounded at the type of brain that can look at a piece like this and see how it is made. Apply to Mensa, they are looking for a new leader.

Even , who earns his living (in part at least) making turned things thought that it was just a clever bit of inlaying.
100 more greenies for you. :D
Yep! Midge already has some green ones from me for this piece of work.

TimberNut
3rd May 2005, 04:19 PM
Generally I hate making pens, but I thought it would be a cheap easy way to test Midges theories.

This one is rosewood with Beech inlays.

As you can see, it's a bit cheap and nasty, but for a 10 minute job I guess it's alright.

Some points to note.

As you rotate the stock for each cut, always align from the same end.
Make sure that whatever timber you use as inlay is a constant thickness (I didn't have any timber veneers handy so free hand cut some on the band saw, and the minute differences in thickness show up noticeably on the loops).

Make sure the timber you remove is the same thickness as what you glue back in. If the inlaid piece is just a bit thicker, after you glue, your stock gets longer. With each 90 degree rotation your stock will continue to lengthen and this shows up as different length spirals (its easy to see 1st vs last cut).

Way to go Midge!

Mulgabill
3rd May 2005, 07:30 PM
Mighty impressive ianhockings! Yes midge certainly opened the floodgates and a few closed minds. We all could use a prod every now and then to look outside the square.

Dan
3rd May 2005, 08:44 PM
So who's going to be first to do more than four rings? :D

dai sensei
3rd May 2005, 11:43 PM
Nice one ianhockings. As you say, any variation in the positioning of the veneers makes a big difference, especially when you turn down to a very small diameter like a pen.

You will have also noted how small the spirals get when you turn the smaller diameters. I know on my pen I used a large angle as midge suggested, and started taking a full length of the pen blank, but by the time I'd turned it down the spirals were less than half.

Dan - more than 4 circles - hmm start with a hexagon blank and use six, or an octogon blank and use eight - is that how it works? Perhaps one of our 3D image programers can advise rather than midge leading the way again. Having said that midge is probably already down in his shed making one.

All I can say is that midge you have provided me with some inspiration and deserve some greenies. I've already made a couple of perfume sprayers with the same pattern I liked it so much. Shame I still haven't got one with all the spirals the same size.

Donnie
4th May 2005, 12:32 AM
With the jig for the table saw (previous post);

For the end of the blank closest to you, the ellipses automatically line up on the 4 sides. I made one (very thin) pass on the jointer on each of these pieces to smooth up the face for glueing. Also, one pass for the first far-end cut off as well. (Since my table saw does not have the capacity to cut to the total depth of the blank, I did not get a true surface for glueing, so I had to smooth things out with the jointer.))

On the 2nd, 3rd and 4th insert, I passed the far-end (cut side down) through the jointer until the fresh joint lined up with the previously cut adjacent side. Things lined up perfectly. (Draw a reference line around the circumference after the first slice..)

This works well for "rolling pin" size blanks ( with 1/4" (6mm) inserts but obviously not for pens.

Donnie

Munga
4th May 2005, 06:33 AM
G,day

That design looks great what glue would one use to stick it together
as it would have to take a fair bit of stress -- particularly when quilted over the skull with it.

Cheers Arch

bitingmidge
4th May 2005, 06:59 PM
Arch,

I'd just use "yellow" PVA. It's reasonably waterproof (so you can wash up after the lacquer has worn off), and stronger than the timber that it's sticking together, so you don't need any better.

Other advantages are that it gives a little work time, but only needs an hour or so of clamping. If you are really game you can make the second cut then (I waited about two hours, and overnight before I turned it!).

Cheers,

P

Munga
12th May 2005, 06:30 AM
Biting midge

I only just figured out how to find the post again as it wasn't on the main page anymore

Thanks for the reply Arch.

tonysa
16th May 2005, 11:59 PM
Midge and others

Tremendous results !
Such an easy solution, I'm still trying to figure out how you solved it.

Now look what you've done, I'm suitable inspired to have a go myself.
Looks like the july working with wood show will get one more lathe sale so I can get turning !!! Sure beats dvd cabinets.

I see an MC900 and some good chisels on the horizon. Would this a good starting point for a beginner ?


Cheers fellas, appreciate reading the posts.

Tony

PS Anyone know which of the cheaper bench grinders are induction, or are all of them ? I don't want anything competing with the circular saw in the triton .

Wild Dingo
30th October 2005, 06:48 PM
Midge and others

Tremendous results !
Such an easy solution, I'm still trying to figure out how you solved it.

yep so am I... looks soooooooooo flamin easy but thats when I get confused most... like navigating kids all reckon I can get lost goin in a straight line whereas give me the bush and I never get lost :rolleyes:

BUt as you say TREMENDOUS RESULTS!!! :cool:


Now look what you've done, I'm suitable inspired to have a go myself.
Looks like the july working with wood show will get one more lathe sale so I can get turning !!! Sure beats dvd cabinets.

I see an MC900 and some good chisels on the horizon. Would this a good starting point for a beginner ?

Sooooooo whaddidyerget???... I AM now officially hooked... love the lathe and Ive only ever twirled it once in my entire life... yesty!! :eek: but its a hoot!! and now Ive seen this... well... I can see many many out of the norm things happenin up in the humpyhoochy down the back :D


I don't want anything competing with the circular saw in the triton .

geddarealsawyermug!! :D

Midge yer a bloody legend mate :cool:

CameronPotter
24th January 2006, 10:04 AM
A few people have said that you have to make sure that the thickness of the wood insert is the same as the wood removed in the cut...

Now, I was thinking that trying to cut this perfectly with a circular saw or bandsaw might cause a few (minor) problems as the kerf may be slightly variable.

To overcome this, you could make two marks on you wood (maybe 50mm apart). Cut out the section you want removed, then place the two bits of wood back together and measure the distance between the two marks now. It will be 50mm minus the wood removed. This gives you an exact amount removed and with the careful use of a thicknesser you can make the fit perfect.

Maybe this is obvious, but I liked the idea when I thought of it...

Cam

Bob Willson
24th January 2006, 10:17 AM
I doubt that a bandsaw would be appropriate for cutting this as there is always some lateral movement in a bandsaw blade as well as the possibility of side pressure that would give you an 'S' shaped cut.
OTOH, my saw blade is EXACTLY 3mm thick and can set up with stops on the table saw to give repeatable cuts.

Peter knows what of he speaketh. All hail the Midge.

CameronPotter
24th January 2006, 10:53 AM
Ahhh... But I don't have a TS and so I would probably do mine with my bandsaw (and a beasty blade), then follow it up with sanding on a mitred disc-sander. Thus, I may need to adjust the width slightly.

ALSO, it could work the other way too...

Know that your wood is 3mm thick, so use the disc-sander to trim the cut-out until it is perfectly 3mm thick...

Skew ChiDAMN!!
20th March 2006, 11:22 PM
It's no good working from two marks on the wood, unless you're measuring the timber insert on the diagonal in the first place. Inserting a piece X units thick on a 45o angle, you need to remove (square root of 2)X units from the length of the piece you're inserting into. Worse, this ratio changes with the angle. Basic maths.

I quickly discovered this after replicating Midges' 'pin then trying it on a much smaller scale: a pen. Which I promptly screwed up: only out by a mm, but that's waaaay too much at that scale. :rolleyes:

CameronPotter
31st March 2006, 11:29 AM
Skew,

I was meaning, make two marks, then cut, then sand and check and sand and check and sand and check until the two marks are the right distance apart again.

Cam

Skew ChiDAMN!!
31st March 2006, 07:20 PM
Ah. I'm lazy... I'd rather cut it right the first time 'round. :D

I've made a couple of jigs (one at 45°, one at 60°) that'll give me about 0.5mm accuracy on the BS. I'm gonna try making up something for the TS to give me even better accuracy, but I'm a bit wary of small items (like half a pen-blank) that get my fingers close enough to the blade that I can "feel the breeze."

CameronPotter
31st March 2006, 07:30 PM
Yeah, but my bandsaw is presently too big for my shed so it is living elsewhere - which is a hassle. I do a lot of handsawing...

However, if I was going to do much more, I would set up my own jig. :D

Cam

ss_11000
8th July 2006, 09:15 PM
what a great thread, no wonder its in the best of the best....

ozwinner
8th July 2006, 09:26 PM
There is a thread on here at the moment about pool cues, I think they were made the same way.
Anyway they are cool.

Al :)

ss_11000
8th July 2006, 09:30 PM
yeah saw that too, hope he does a wip and that it is simpler than this but i wont get my hopes up

Trent The Thief
2nd December 2008, 08:14 PM
Whaddayameen "upsidedown"

Hey, does that misprinted map have any value for cartography buffs?:;

Manuka Jock
3rd December 2008, 07:16 PM
Hey, does that misprinted map have any value for cartography buffs?:;
This map ? :D

Trent The Thief
3rd December 2008, 07:29 PM
This map ? :D

That is the coolest map I have ever seen.

Manuka Jock
3rd December 2008, 09:08 PM
That is the coolest map I have ever seen.


we have more ....:D

Ed Reiss
4th December 2008, 02:00 AM
we have more ....:D

...of course that only applies if your down looking up!!:U

Manuka Jock
4th December 2008, 02:10 AM
...of course that only applies if your down looking up!!:U
The sun is up in the sky , and it shines on us first every day ,
so
how is the view from down there ? :p

Ed Reiss
4th December 2008, 02:45 AM
The sun is up in the sky , and it shines on us first every day ,
so
how is the view from down there ? :p

lol Touche' MJ...you got me on that one!:doh:

BTW...it's 10:30 in the morning here, how come your not snoring away?

Trent The Thief
4th December 2008, 06:02 AM
The sun is up in the sky , and it shines on us first every day ,
so
how is the view from down there ? :p

Well, actually, the day begins in Guam. Haf Adai!

:q

Manuka Jock
4th December 2008, 09:31 AM
lol Touche' MJ...you got me on that one!:doh:

BTW...it's 10:30 in the morning here, how come your not snoring away?
I couldn't sleep , trying to figure out why my Celtic ancestors needed a knotted rolling pin
:U

woodwork wally
4th December 2008, 08:35 PM
This laminating is the same as celtic knot and only one thing half the articlles dont tell you is that the piece being inserted is to be the same as the saw kerf or the same as that which is taken out . If not then the points of junctions on the knot will not line up. I have done 2 of these and it took experimenting to work out what was going wrong . Ther are a number of articles on the celtic knot so read up before you go for it and remember above and you wont go wrong cheers WW Wally

Ed Reiss
5th December 2008, 01:06 PM
I couldn't sleep , trying to figure out why my Celtic ancestors needed a knotted rolling pin
:U

Me darlin' Annie, LOML, tells me it's so the wives can impart a knot with the rolling pin to their miscreant husbands head when they sneak into the house in the wee morning hours after being to the local pub:o:doh:

....so MJ, get some sleep!:q

tea lady
5th December 2008, 01:29 PM
Me darlin' Annie, LOML, tells me it's so the wives can impart a knot with the rolling pin to their miscreant husbands head when they sneak into the house in the wee morning hours after being to the local pub:o:doh:

....so MJ, get some sleep!:q

I'm sure we could work up a story about it being traditional to give a rolling pin with a knot in it to a bride as a symbol of an unbreakable bound between two people, and a handy weapon for discouraging late night pub returnings.:D

Skew ChiDAMN!!
5th December 2008, 02:27 PM
Where do you think we got the phrase: "Knot tonight, dear."?? :p

Manuka Jock
5th December 2008, 03:02 PM
:U:U:U

Just a bunch a clever clogs the lot of ya eh

bitingmidge
5th December 2008, 03:04 PM
OK so it's a few years since this thread kicked off, and I've been promising a few of the women in my life a rolling pin ever since I did that little demo thing, but I haven't a clue what timber to make it out of.

Any ideas for timber suitable for a rolling pin that won't leave tannin stains in the Christmas Cake icing?

Cheers,

P
:)

Skew ChiDAMN!!
5th December 2008, 03:15 PM
I've made a few, mainly from English Oak or Tas Oak.

For the knots I like Fruit trees, Redgum, Meranti, Spotted Gum, Walnut, Purpleheart & Osage Orange. So far I've heard no complaints about them. [fingers Xed]

I've also used Jarrah, Kapur, Oz Ebony and Mirbau, but only for decorative ones... I've no idea whether they'd stain or not but I suspect they will.

BTW, I have had a couple returned for repairs that have separated at the joint. :- I dunno what they used 'em for, but they certainly put some force behind it! :rolleyes: So now, instead of making "one-piece" rolling pins I'm thinking about boring the cylinder to take a steel shaft with the handles attached to each end.

More effort to make, but way easier than trying to reglue a broken one!

Manuka Jock
5th December 2008, 06:24 PM
No chance of wood juice stain means all light coloured timbers .
Not much of a decorative patten there eh .

At home , the best food wood for no taste or colour leaching into the food , is Kahikatea , native 'white pine'.
In the past butter pats were made from it , as well as the boxes for exporting FernLeaf Butter . Its' hard to get now , tho

bitingmidge
5th December 2008, 06:49 PM
Thanks guys!

I'm too tight to go and buy an exotic, so I might just laminate a bit of structural hardwood with some epoxy, turn them, then bung them in the dishwasher for a couple of cycles to get rid of the toxins!

Can't hurt anyone after that can it?

Now lets see... I had some CCA pine round here somewhere...... :p

Cheers,

P
:D

Mike O'Leary
2nd March 2009, 06:56 AM
http://www.freerollingpinplans.com/

Here... I think this explains it....

Mike... from Canada.....






Ok, I admit it... being Canadian, I'm too dumb to figure out how John Engstrom laminated his blank to turn the rolling pin as displayed at:

http://www.mnwoodturners.com/gallery1.html

I'd like to turn one of these myself so I'm asking you smart folk from down under to explain it to me. (Please use small words so I can understand.)

Donnie