PDA

View Full Version : River Red Gum bowl



corbs
11th April 2013, 09:22 PM
Evening all, here's my latest offering to the gods of wood chips and very fine annoying dust that gets everywhere (Red Gum is pretty though).

I was asked if I'd be interested in making a bowl to be auctioned at an upcoming local charity auction so this is what I came up with. It's the biggest I've turned at about 340mm. Finish is about 8 coats of Kunos Oil which feels silky smooth :)


Corbs

TTIT
11th April 2013, 10:55 PM
Beautiful bowl Corbs and the finish looks awesome :2tsup::2tsup: . . . . . which leads me to the question, I've just bought my first batch of Kunos oil and read on the Bungendore website that they thin it to 50% but it already appears as thin as you could want :shrug: Can you shed any light on why they would thin it so much??? :think:

Scott
11th April 2013, 10:57 PM
Beautiful piece Corbs. Sure is a stunning piece of Redgum and beautifully turned :2tsup:

corbs
11th April 2013, 11:24 PM
Thanks guys :)

Vern,
At the moment I'm buying small jars directly from the woodworks as they last me a fair while with my volume of turning. I love the finish and it smells great too :). I use the oil as they supply it from the gallery. I just looked at their site and it appears that what I'm using is already thinned. I also read that I'm supposed to lightly sand with a red pad between coats. I've no idea what a red pad is or where to get one but it looks like I'm in the market for a red pad :-.

Not sure if that helps but at the moment, I can't think of any other type of finish I'd bother with for what I'm doing.


Corbs

Cliff Rogers
11th April 2013, 11:45 PM
:2tsup:

Willy Nelson
12th April 2013, 12:01 AM
From a very ugly piece of wood, you have produced a fantastic bowl, Well DOne Corbs
Willy
jarrahland

dr4g0nfly
12th April 2013, 04:55 AM
COrbs,

that looks absolutely wonderful.

I hope that it raises an awful lot for whatever charity it's supporting.

And well done you, for the donation of your time and expertise - we trust it is fully appreciated.

Paul39
12th April 2013, 06:18 AM
Corbs,

Absolutely lovely bowl. Good that you thought to do a before photo. I often wish I had when I make a nice piece from a chunk of discarded wood.

mkypenturner
12th April 2013, 06:53 AM
. I also read that I'm supposed to lightly sand with a red pad between coats. I've no idea what a red pad is or where to get one but it looks like I'm in the market for a red pad


Corbs
nice work corbs , the red pads are a 3m scotchbrite pad availble in a few diff colours and each is a different grade , i been using them for a few years and use them on all my work from pens to bigger stuff http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/body/0706mt_body_work_tools_supplies/photo_34.html (http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/body/0706mt_body_work_tools_supplies/photo_34.html) heres a pic of what the sheet looks like and all i do is cut the sheet up into small pieces if it ever looks clogged just blow with compressor

mkypenturner
12th April 2013, 06:54 AM
oh and last time i got them about 3 busks a sheet

corbs
12th April 2013, 07:29 AM
Thanks for the replies and the headsup on what the red pads are that I'm looking for :)

The auction is going to be part of a quiz night so I will be there when it goes under the hammer. I'm tempted to bid on it myself :wink:

Rod Gilbert
12th April 2013, 07:52 AM
Beautiful bowl I am sure who ever gets it will be very happy with it and I agree the finish is very good a great sheen to it.
Regards Rod.:2tsup:

artme
12th April 2013, 08:46 AM
A splendid piece!! Beautiful finish!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

L R P
12th April 2013, 09:15 AM
Hey Corbs
Knockout bowl, did you treat the natural cracks with anything,
eg fillemup ? I am half way through something similar and wondering.

Cheers

bench1holio
12th April 2013, 09:28 AM
corbs, that piece came up a treat...well done mate!

dai sensei
12th April 2013, 12:33 PM
Beautiful piece there Corbs :2tsup:. Hopefully the auction has attendees with deep pockets and it will bring in the $s it deserves.

corbs
12th April 2013, 03:59 PM
Thanks all, I dropped the bowl off to my POC today but they weren't there. Everyone else in the office was pretty impressed with it though.

Lindz, I didn't do anything to treat the cracks. Just turned, sanded and oiled :)


Hey Corbs
Knockout bowl, did you treat the natural cracks with anything,
eg fillemup ? I am half way through something similar and wondering.

Cheers

Mulgabill
12th April 2013, 04:22 PM
Nice one Andy! I love the shape. Good luck with the Charity:2tsup:

Christos
15th April 2013, 10:16 AM
I thought that I had replied to this earlier but it seems that I might not have subbed it. And I can not recall how critical I was.

I remember now,


Very nice.

Wood Nut
15th April 2013, 04:33 PM
Stunning work Corbs. Well done

smiife
15th April 2013, 09:01 PM
hi corbs,
very nice bowl,could you tell me if you let each coat dry
or did you buff each coat while wet,
just wondered because i have use kunos oil but it never came up
like that:o,i must be doing something wrong i think:~
well done with the bowl ,great job :cool:
cheers smiife:2tsup:

corbs
15th April 2013, 09:49 PM
Thanks again team...


hi corbs,
very nice bowl,could you tell me if you let each coat dry
or did you buff each coat while wet,
just wondered because i have use kunos oil but it never came up
like that:o,i must be doing something wrong i think:~
well done with the bowl ,great job :cool:
cheers smiife:2tsup:

Smiife, the first coat I put on was fairly heavy which I left dry for 20 minutes then rubbed off with a clean towel and left for 24 hours to dry. Each successive coat was a light coat left for 20 minutes and rubbed off with the towel and left for another 24 hours. I usually only put on 3-4 coats for a satin finish but this bit of redgum loved the Kunos Oil and came up really nicely. I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now :2tsup:

smiife
16th April 2013, 08:17 PM
Smiife, the first coat I put on was fairly heavy which I left dry for 20 minutes then rubbed off with a clean towel and left for 24 hours to dry. Each successive coat was a light coat left for 20 minutes and rubbed off with the towel and left for another 24 hours. I usually only put on 3-4 coats for a satin finish but this bit of redgum loved the Kunos Oil and came up really nicely. I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now :2tsup:

thanks for the info ,will try your method next time
cheers smiife:2tsup:

TTIT
21st April 2013, 10:53 PM
......... I've since found out that I should be rubbing with a red pad between coats so I'm keeping my eye out for a few of them locally now :2tsup:Have you found those 'red pads' yet ???? - I'm interested in finding the same thing. Having trouble getting a gloss coat from this Livos 'Linn' oil I got - it's supposed to gloss up on the third coat but I'm up to about 13 and still haven't got there - might have to use the 'Kunos' and a 'red pad' instead I think :~

corbs
22nd April 2013, 07:32 AM
Have you found those 'red pads' yet ???? - I'm interested in finding the same thing. Having trouble getting a gloss coat from this Livos 'Linn' oil I got - it's supposed to gloss up on the third coat but I'm up to about 13 and still haven't got there - might have to use the 'Kunos' and a 'red pad' instead I think :~

I haven't made much of an effort looking yet. I looked in Bunnings but they didn't have them. I have a few other local options but may end up having to get them online. I was considering having a try with OOOO steel wool on a test piece to see what happens but haven't made it that far yet. My preference is for the red pad though for when I do open burls, I think the steel wool would get caught in cracks there but solid wood may be an option.

AngelaPetruzzi
16th May 2013, 03:29 PM
What a wonderful piece of art you produced Corbs, just beautiful.To answer some of your questions, the idea of thinning the Kunos is that it is meant to penetrate deeper into the timber. It is best not to thin the product as it actually dilutes the ingredients and one would need more coats for the same protection. But then again, if you are on a good thing, stick to it..... Maybe next time you intend to use it, make a sample with the thinned Kunos and one sample not thinned and gauge your findings. You may also want to have a look at a video of Neil Scobie using it and how he does it. Application of Livos natural oils on furniture. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T37KLSAdfYM&context=C41627b6ADvjVQa1PpcFN0W504SZMRKI6_lDrGJqRE8VGzd582lts)= The way Corbs applied it is correct, apply liberal first coat, after 20 minutes wipe off.Next day and to achieve either a finer finish or more gloss level, sand or cut back with a higher grit paper / an abrasive pad such as scotchpad or the infamous red pad (this is from the German web site). Neil uses 0000 steel wool for example. By doing it this way, it will flatten the wax crystals in the Kunos and not cut down the fibres as with varnish systems. You can also use something like hessian.Please do not misunderstand me as we know furniture makers and woodworkers all have their own little tips and tricks with various finishes and if you achieve the look you want great, if not, ring or email to discuss. TTTT, it would be interesting to know how you are applyingit as 3 coats maybe 4 is usually more than sufficient.

Jim Carroll
16th May 2013, 06:22 PM
As Angela indicated the scotchbrite pads in white or red will do the same thing, even used 2000g wet and dry, used wet.

Some timbers do take more coats to get a shine but most seem to just get a sheen no matter how much oil goes on.

Bungendore have athin mix as they go around and wipe the timber items every now and then to revive a peice that needs an upgrade after a lot of handling.

They dont want a full mix as this takes more work for them to look after, a thin mix can be wiped on and of straight away.

corbs
16th May 2013, 08:29 PM
Thanks Angela, I get my oil from the Bungendore gallery and they sell it thinned which may account for me needing more coats to achieve the finish. That said, I usually only put three to four coats on which gives me a very nice finish. I have 0000 steel wool in the shed so I will experiment rubbing back with that next time.

On a side note, the lady who asked me to make the peice has made it very clear that she will be the one buying it as well regardless of the cost :D

TTIT
16th May 2013, 10:15 PM
.................................... TTTT, it would be interesting to know how you are applyingit as 3 coats maybe 4 is usually more than sufficient.It's not the Kunos oil I have issues with Angela - I get an excellent sheen with it with just the 3 or 4 coats suggested :2tsup: - even better since I went to our local paint place to find the 'red pads' and came home with some 'fine' and 'ultra fine' Scotchbrite which beats the hell out of clogging up fine sandpaper between coats.
The Linn oil is the one I have a problem with :C. I followed the instructions on the can to the letter but even after ten coats I wasn't getting what I would consider a 'gloss' finish :no:. When trying to 'polish' on the last super-light coat it just goes sort of misty looking and leaves streaks all over. After sanding back completely twice to start from scratch, I ended up settling for 'the best I could manage' which has been drying now for over a week. Once I get the hinges fitted to the box I will buff it with wax and see if I can get rid of the streaks and a full gloss to it that way :shrug:

Sawdust Maker
16th May 2013, 11:01 PM
Nice bowl there Corbs!
nice bit of wood and a pleasing shape

Hope it raises a lot of money

I've a dim memory that the scotch pads are available in Kmart in a couple of different colours, paint section?