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mick61
6th June 2013, 11:07 PM
Gday I am making a piece that will have several long
Spindles attached. I have used araldite and aquadere
Neither appears strong enough. Open to suggestions
Mick:D

tore
7th June 2013, 12:57 AM
https://d2g5rk8536j8pc.cloudfront.net/images/thumbnails/1/120/Titebond_III_-_237ml.jpg (https://www.timberbits.com/titebond-iii-ultimate-wood-glue-237ml.html) Titebond III (https://www.timberbits.com/titebond-iii-ultimate-wood-glue-237ml.html)

Master Splinter
7th June 2013, 02:02 AM
Basically, any of the glues on the market today will have a bond strength greater than the wood.

A failure of the joint that doesn't involve physical damage to the wood will be because of incorrect prep (ie not solvent cleaning oily woods, too much/too little gap/glue), otherwise it'll more than likely be incorrect join type for the wood (ie attempting glue joins with endgrain).

Most glues won't stick to other glues (it's got to be bare timber), with the exception of hide glue (will bond with old hide glue) and epoxy (will stick to old epoxy if sanded with 80 grit to provide a mechanical key).

Also:
http://jlrodgers.com/pdf/revised-glue-grain.pdf

chuck1
7th June 2013, 08:54 AM
we have been using tite bond and this white foam glue in a corking gun, the white stuff has a real short work time but expands in the joints it's a construction adhesive!

tea lady
7th June 2013, 08:58 AM
we have been using tite bond and this white foam glue in a corking gun, the white stuff has a real short work time but expands in the joints it's a construction adhesive!That sounds like polyurathane. Also an option. :cool:

Mr Brush
7th June 2013, 10:48 AM
I've just been using some polyurethane (AV515) for an outdoor job - great for that as it is weatherproof, strong enough, easy to work with. Makes your hands go black though, so wear gloves when using. :oo:

Not my choice of glue for furniture making though. It isn't ultimately all that strong, as tested in Fine Woodworking a while ago, compared to PVAs like Titebond (assuming correct application). Also, the foaming action tends to result in a very visible glue line.

Might be the best option if (god forbid) you are joining end grain surfaces, where PVA is pretty much useless.

As others have said, provided the appropriate preparation is performed, either Titebond or epoxy should give excellent bond strength on long-grain joints. My choice is Titebond II or III for PVA, or West System for epoxy. This thinner epoxy seems to wet the surfaces better than the really gluggy stuff like Techniglue.

Disclaimer: All of the above may be wrong....

MBM888
7th June 2013, 11:52 AM
:whs:

ian thorn
7th June 2013, 03:01 PM
I use gorila glue which dose foam it is gape filling I spread the glue thinly on one piece and dampen the other NOT wet just damp then clamp not too tight works for me but we don't know what type of join you are making if it is end grain you may have to consider a dowel for support and strength

Ian

Mobyturns
7th June 2013, 09:41 PM
Like others have said success is all about the joint prep and joint design. I use Araldite, PVA's from Selly's Trademans Choice, AV Syntec's AVXL Plus, Titebond II plus the polyurethanes from Titebond & Selly's. All have their place - but a gap filling glue - hmmm - poor joint construction methinks. Joints have to be just right, not to tight & not too loose.

Have a look at Ken Wraights spindle work - plenty of fine spindles and a variety of joint designs which hold up very well.

mick61
8th June 2013, 09:20 AM
Thanks for the advice I am joining end grain to side grain.
Mic:D
When project is complete I will post pics which will explain
Why I asked the question.

RETIRED
8th June 2013, 11:51 AM
Just a note about most polyurethane glues.

The joint has to be clamped as the glue expands when drying (that is what makes it a good gap filler) and forces the joint apart.

powderpost
8th June 2013, 11:16 PM
Been following this thread with interest. Choice of glue is dependent on the species, structural strength required and application. The ability to read instructions from the manufacture also bears some importance. I have been known to glue the odd piece of wood together, including end grain to side grain. So far (after about 30 years) I haven't had a failure. As an exercise, I cut a 600mm length of 50 x 50 pine in half and rejoined the end grain with standard aquadhere. The rejoined piece was supported on two bricks and it supported my weight, about 80kg. I would not however build a boat with the same glue.
Before making a glue choice you need to consider the species, joint type, size of the joint, strength required and application.
Jim