My Box Turning Learning Journey.

[Sturdee]

Over the years I have turned a few boxes, some great, some good and most of them not so good. So I asked, and got, for my birthday Chris Stott book " Turned Boxes - 50 Designs" to help me learn to turn better boxes.

I'm going to use the book as suggested to make the boxes, learning from it better designs but still with my own interpretation. Thus I will not copy to the exact same dimensions as in the book but follow the design ideas instead.

The book starts of with a simple box, more a mini sized box, and then becomes more and more developed building on previously made boxes.

So here is the first box, being the mini simple box, turned out of a bit of cypres pine fence post with EEE and Shellowax finish.

Picture shows the front and top, insides and the bottom views.
299349 299350
299351
Having made the simple box it is suggested that you make some variations on that theme so here are the additional ones I made.

Box 2.

299352 299353
299354

Box 3.

299355 299356
299357


Box 4.

299358 299359
299360

All the same wood and finish.

Enjoy,

Peter.

[Hermit]

Nice little boxes, well finished, Peter. :2tsup:
My favourite is the one with a knob and a knot.

That's the first one well covered - can we assume there are 49 still to come? :D

[Sturdee]

Nice little boxes, well finished, Peter. :2tsup:
My favourite is the one with a knob and a knot.

That's the first one well covered - can we assume there are 49 still to come? :D

Yes, I'll work my way through the book as each one builds on the techniques learned in the previous ones.


Peter.

[artme]

Ooooo yeah!! Love cypress so you have won me just with the timber choice!!

Really neat boxes my friend!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Colin62]

Over the years I have turned a few boxes, some great, some good and most of them not so good.

Obviously can't tell the fit of the lids from a photo, but from what you've shown here, I don't think you have any problems with making boxes :)

[dai sensei]

Well done, and when you have finished those 50, I'll lend you the book I have of 500 boxes :U

[Sturdee]

Obviously can't tell the fit of the lids from a photo, but from what you've shown here, I don't think you have any problems with making boxes :)

Boxes 1,2 & 4 are firm fitting and could be carried in a bag as a pill or ring box, but box no 3 is a loose fit more suitable for a sugar bowl.

I want to get more experience putting curves and flair into them rather then the more functional ones I've made. However that doesn't mean that I'll be putting large totem poles,AKA oversized finials, on top of small boxes because the aim is to help me get a better feel for styles that I will be comfortable with.



Peter.

[Sturdee]

Well done, and when you have finished those 50, I'll lend you the book I have of 500 boxes :U

Thanks, I'll be looking forward to it. But I also got for my birthday Mark Baker's book " Woodturning Projects -a workshop guide to shapes" with another 50 projects to work through.


Peter.

[powderpost]

They look very nice Peter... :2tsup: You have done well. Now for some threads???? :D
Jim

[Sturdee]

Now for some threads???? :D
Jim

That will come Jim, seeing I finished making my thread cutting machine. :U :U


Peter.

[Drillit]

Peter,
Luv Box 4 - smaller knob?. Anyways they look great. Drillit.

[Sturdee]

All the boxes so far are very small, more like mini boxes. You can of course make them larger and the scale drawing would make that easier just by photocopying but I prefer to work roughly to the sizes in the book.

Still the same type of shaping, cuts etc but quicker and less wood used. :U:U

But to give an idea of size here is a photo of box 1 with a 50 cent piece for comparison.

299568


Peter.

[Hermit]

I mentally pictured them as slightly larger, but not much.
You had me scrambling for a 50 cent piece to measure the one I made last week. It's a shade bigger - 2.5 x 50c coins wide, 2 x 50c coins tall.

[Sturdee]

The second box, following the same basic format as the first, is a Chinese Hat Box.

I made it out of some scrap hardwood, sanded to 400 then EEE and followed with shellowax. Normally I would prefer to use an oil finish but the shellowax is nice and quick for an immediate finish.

Picture shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

299572 and 299573

299574

The lid is a tad loose fit and the bottom seemed too small and made it a bit top heavy so I made a second one that I believe is better. Also the lid is a firm fit.


299575 and 299576

299577




Enjoy,

Peter.

[Hermit]

You're knocking them out Peter. :whip:
I agree that the base was originally too narrow. The modified version looks far better. :2tsup:

[michael_m]

They're looking great. I agree, the base on the second one looks better.

I might have to get myself a copy of that book too; it's a great idea to work through it from start to finish.

[Sturdee]

This box evolved from the previous one bu extending the lid upwards and adding an oriental-looking onion shaped finial. Made out of some cypres pine and finished like the previous ones.


Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

300178 and 300179

300180


I also made a variation which changed the onion shape with a spear shaped top.

300181 and 300182

300183

Enjoy,

Peter.

[powderpost]

The lid is a tad loose
Threads will overcome this Peter.. :wink:
Jim

[Dalboy]

Some great boxes this looks like it could be a long thread if you are going to make all 50 from the book:U:U.

How big are they and before anyone says anything I don't know how big a 50c coin is:;

[Sturdee]

Some great boxes this looks like it could be a long thread if you are going to make all 50 from the book:U:U.

How big are they and before anyone says anything I don't know how big a 50c coin is:;

Yes, I intend to try to make them all as it is a great and structured learning journey into design and making of boxes. Although they are small the same design and techniques are applicable to larges boxes, they just take more material and longer to do.

It will be a long thread as posting them will force me to make them all. :U

For those from O'seas the 50 cent coin has a diameter of 33 mm, it was remiss of me not to realize that everyone knew of our coinage. :-


Peter.

[Dalboy]

For those from O'seas the 50 cent coin has a diameter of 33 mm, it was remiss of me not to realize that everyone knew of our coinage. :-


Peter.

Thank you for that just don't change the coinage that you use otherwise you will totally confuse me. :C :C :U :U :U

[Sturdee]

Another variation that the book suggest is to make one with a hollow flared top to give a more vase like appearance, similar to the standard bud vases. Again made out of some cypres pine and finished like the previous ones.


Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

300432 and 300433

300434



Enjoy,


Peter.

[Sturdee]

I also turned the next one being a finial box, which again builds on the previous ones in this series. Again made out of some cypres pine and finished like the previous ones.

Although I personally dislike finials, as too often they look like oversized totem poles, I think this one seems to fit the style of box made.

Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.
300435 and 300436

300437


Next will be a few different style of boxes and with the extreme weather forecast for this week I may have to turn a few as the workshop is quite cool.:2tsup:

Peter.

[chambezio]

I like what you are doing and the results say that you are a "worthy student"
Just a question....when you have shaped the outside of the lid, I am assuming that you just part it off from the bowl shape below....I would imagine the parting tool would leave the bottom of the lid a little coarse. How does the book say that smooth that surface is cleaned up for surface finishing?

[Hermit]

Two more nice-looking boxes Peter. :2tsup::2tsup:
That Cypress looks great.
Personally, I'm a bit anti-finial too, so the first of these appeals more. I love the shape of the lid, it has a really elegant look about it. (Filed for future reference.) Edit: A slightly larger version could be a box and a bud vase, with a suitable glass tube in the top.
I'm looking forward to the next ones.

[Sturdee]

I like what you are doing and the results say that you are a "worthy student"
Just a question....when you have shaped the outside of the lid, I am assuming that you just part it off from the bowl shape below....I would imagine the parting tool would leave the bottom of the lid a little coarse. How does the book say that smooth that surface is cleaned up for surface finishing?

Thanks, I like being a worthy student.

The book says to just part of and then hand sand both the top and the bottom.

For the boxes 3 & 4 I did that for the tops and the finish of the sharp thin parting tool is good, just requires the nub to be cut of with a sharp skew by hand and then hand sand. For the other tops and bottoms of the boxes I clamp them in a MDF faced scroll chuck. I have two chucks each with 8 " Cole jaw on which I screwed MDF faces, one for internal and one for external holding which work well for the reverse turning.

These kind of gadgets make life easier. :2tsup:


Peter.

[Sturdee]

Although it's called an easy box I had more trouble with this one then the previous ones. The design looks very similar to the old fashioned weights used with larger scales. Just need to be painted with a copper paint and you would fool everyone. :U

I made two, the first one out of cedar, which I think was too soft a wood to use as clamping for reverse turning left some small marks and then when buffing those marks out it was pulled out of my hands and went flying making some more small marks. However I was able to remount it on my new Vermec's internal step jaws and remove the marks and re-polish it whilst so held.

As usually they are finished by sanding to 400, then EEE and finally with Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

300701 and 300702

300703

The second one was made from some unknown timber found a few years ago on the road side. It is rather heavy but has a wonderful grain but again difficult to turn the top of the box, as it kept chipping away.

300704 and 300705

300706

The second one is a bit larger then the first as can be seen when side by side. Both are a firm fit which, because of the style, took some time.

300707

Enjoy,


Peter.

[Dalboy]

You are having too much fun turning these boxes. They are all looking great still lots more to make:U:U.

When you reverse turn try making a jam chuck this will help prevent getting marks on the softer woods

[artme]

You are going great guns Peter!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Just an opinion on #4 - I think the finial is too fat. The overall
unit would look beter with a finer finial.

[Sturdee]

When you reverse turn try making a jam chuck this will help prevent getting marks on the softer woods


IMO making individual jam chucks for each item to be reversed turned is so pre modern history and should be put in a museum along with the pole lathes to show how things used to be done in the dark ages. :)

If modern chucking and holding methods can't be adapted to perform multiple tasks quickly and easily hold the work effortless, then I shouldn't make it. My mistake was using a too soft a wood and using the wrong chuck. :-

But it worked out and another lesson learned.:2tsup:


Peter.

[Sturdee]

Just an opinion on #4 - I think the finial is too fat. The overall
unit would look better with a finer finial.

I think you're right, the drawing in the book was also thinner, but when making it I felt it was too delicate for holding and removing the lid.

Another lesson learned is to sometimes to accept the book's drawing without any changes.


Peter.

[tea lady]

I think you're right, the drawing in the book was also thinner, but when making it I felt it was too delicate for holding and removing the lid.

Another lesson learned is to sometimes to accept the book's drawing without any changes.


Peter.No harm in trying your own theory. But it is suprising how thin the wood can be and still function. That does change with the hardness of the wood.

[Sawdust Maker]

interesting journey
keep up the good work

I was wondering whether the chinese hat box series actually needed the feet

[Sturdee]

Still too hot to go outside and finish of the conversion of the old partly demolished shed to an outdoor gym that we did most of last week, so alas I had to stay in the workshop and do some more turning. :2tsup:

So I made box no 6 which is a spherical box. Timber is Cypres pine and finished the usual way. This was a fun and easy to do box as I was able to use my sphere cutting jig to get a lovely rounded ball.

Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

300807 and 300806

300805

As tomorrow will again be very hot I might make the next one as well, as it only got to 26 in the workshop.


Enjoy,

Peter.

[mick59wests]

Peter,I am sure that I am just one of many watching this great post. Great to see you taking the time to post it all. My interest shot up a notch at your mention of your sphere cutting jig. I know you are very handy (from other posts) and would be very interested in details of your jig.cheersMick
Still too hot to go outside and finish of the conversion of the old partly demolished shed to an outdoor gym that we did most of last week, so alas I had to stay in the workshop and do some more turning. :2tsup:So I made box no 6 which is a spherical box. Timber is Cypres pine and finished the usual way. This was a fun and easy to do box as I was able to use my sphere cutting jig to get a lovely rounded ball.Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.300807 and 300806300805As tomorrow will again be very hot I might make the next one as well, as it only got to 26 in the workshop.Enjoy,Peter.

[Hermit]

........ My interest shot up a notch at your mention of your sphere cutting jig. I know you are very handy (from other posts) and would be very interested in details of your jig.cheersMick

:whs:

[Sturdee]

Peter,I am sure that I am just one of many watching this great post. Great to see you taking the time to post it all. My interest shot up a notch at your mention of your sphere cutting jig. I know you are very handy (from other posts) and would be very interested in details of your jig.cheersMick

Thanks Mick, I'm glad you are enjoying these posts.

As I'm getting into it I really start to enjoy making these little boxes as they are challenging, especially the hat series boxes that are still to come.


With regard to the sphere cutting jig I must admit that we bought the one from Vermec (http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/Sphere_Cutting_Jig.pdf), which is an extremely accurate jig and a joy to use, although it was a tad expensive, but I got it at a good price at the WWW Show. I looked at making one myself but the ease of position and adjustment made me buy Vermec's jig.

The one I was looking at was this one (http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip48.htm) and could be made of wood and using a small scraper.


Peter.

[Sturdee]

Today I made two versions of the vase box. The book says that it is loosely modelled on a Grecian urn showing that even such shape can be turned into a box.

The first is made out of Cypres pine and follows the plan and finished as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication

300921 and 300920

300922


The second one is made of some unknown wood, which is hard and difficult to turn, as it chips very easily but looks great. I think it's some kind of Mahogany.For this version I shaped it more like a vase and it needed the base to stabilize it. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication

300925 and 300924

300923

I prefer the second one more then the first, what do others think.


Peter.

[powderpost]

Hi Peter, I prefer the cypress pine shape.
Jim

[Hermit]

More nice work Peter. :2tsup:

My taste is a little different - I like the body of the second box, with a foot, but prefer the lid of the first. The more flattened shape of the knob/handle and the slightly thinner 'stem' leading up to it on the first appeals more.

Looking forward to the next installment...

Edit: Is that second timber possibly Blackbutt? I've been using some recycled stuff here for a while that looks virtually identical, and on posting a 'timber ID' thread some time back, was told that it was most likely Blackbutt.
(Mind you, I'm completely hopeless at identifying timber, so am probably wrong.)

[tea lady]

Looking good. I think you can go finer with the knobs still.

That wood might be jarrah. It can be very variable. I had some that was terrible to turn as you describe and some that was great.

[michael_m]

I agree, the second one for me too.

[Sturdee]

I wanted to make the lid of the second one the same as the first.

From a previous box I knew that timber, whatever it is, tended to chip when cutting thin lids so I allowed an extra 75 mm for that to happen. Even that was not enough as at each of the first three attempts to get a thin edged lid it kept splitting away at the edges. Finally I ran out of timber so in desperation I made a rounded knob.

Then to balance it I felt that a base would compliment it, so I managed to cut that out of the section clamped in the chuck, leaving only 3 mm to cut of with the band saw, before reverse turning.

May be because of the difficulties I had with that one and the spectacular grain when polished I like that one the best :U but it's good to hear of contrary opinions.

Still having great fun doing these. :2tsup:


Peter.

[tea lady]

I wanted to make the lid of the second one the same as the first.

From a previous box I knew that timber, whatever it is, tended to chip when cutting thin lids so I allowed an extra 75 mm for that to happen. Even that was not enough as at each of the first three attempts to get a thin edged lid it kept splitting away at the edges. Finally I ran out of timber so in desperation I made a rounded knob.




Peter.Ah yes. Some woods just have absolutely no short grain strength.

[Sturdee]

Yesterday was too hot to turn and the lack of sleep caught up with me so I stayed near the AC all day but today it was nice again so here is today's effort being a beaded lid box. In this one the lid slips over the lip which is the opposite to the earlier boxes and has a small raised bead on the lid top.

Again out of Cypres pine and finished the usual way.

301154 and 301155

301156



Although this is box number 8 with the variations I have made 16 boxes so far. Starting to run out of room soon and I realize that I will have to build a special display rack for them when I have finished. :U


Enjoy,

Peter.

[Dalboy]

They are all looking good and that you are enjoying yourself (which is the main thing)


Would like to see a photo of all of them together when you have finished working your way through the book:U:U:U:;:;:;

[Hermit]

Boy, you're really knocking them over, Peter. Sixteen already!
And in that time I've only got half-way through one project. :(

Looking good - keep 'em coming. :2tsup:

[Sturdee]

Didn't get much turning done this week, Men's shed started again, installed the new spa cabling, garden maintenance and a funeral to go to. Still I managed to get into the workshop on Wednesday and Friday so I made box no 9.

Chris Stott calls this, and some other boxes, by the name of the woods he used, so I'll adopt the same with the wood I use, where this happens.

This box is similar to box no 7 but with a contrasting wooden knob glued into the lid. The box is very old redgum that came from a garden sleeper I found by the side of the road 6 month ago and the beech for the knob came from some donated pen blanks.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

301907 and 301908

301909


Maybe in a larger size box the knob in a contrasting wood would look okay but with this size I personally don't particularly like it, but it's another technique learned.

Enjoy.

Peter.

BTW it took two days as my first effort became a disaster and went to the scrap heap.:-

[Sturdee]

This afternoon, after our wood turning club meeting, I got into the workshop and made box no 10 being made out of some nice and fine grained Oregon. I scored a very old large veranda post on Monday which was rotten through at the bottom and left at the Men's shed, which has a fair amount of usable turning timber left.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

301910 and 301911

301912

Enjoy,


Peter.

[Sturdee]

Haven't done very much turning this last week. Doctors appointments, lack of sleep due to the hot weather and chauffering duties only allowed me to make two boxes, being two variations of box 11. The design is based on the previous one, but larger and more shapely. Both of them gave me a lot of problems turning them, the first with a lot of tear out and sanding and the second had a lot of hairline cracks.
Here are the two side by side.

302874

The first one is made from Geronggang which is a great timber for flat work but not very good for turning. A few years ago I got about 10 large leg posts size of cuts from a furniture manufacturer and I have previously used this for tall urns but it has a tendency to have tear outs when hollowing. The lid whilst turning was tight but the finishing reduced it to a loose fit.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

302873 and 302875

302872


The second is made from Cypres pine, normally a good timber to turn, but this large pieces had a lot of hairline cracks that only became apparent when turning. Both the lid and the box required lots of stopping to glue the cracks. The lid is a firm fit and although it's a suggested variation I prefer this one myself. Same finish as usual. I still have two pieces of this lot, each about 400 mm long, but I won't be using it for small boxes. :U

302871 and 302870

302869

Before I make the next box I'm finishing of a few improvements to the workshop, like bringing the on/of switches to the Air compressor and DC to the third lathe (so they can be switched on/ of at each lathe and in the main section) and some more shelving. All to make life easier.

Enjoy,


Peter.

[Hermit]

They're nice-looking little boxes. I like that rounded shape. :2tsup:

I had to look up 'Geronggang' - never heard of it before.

And you've done much better than me, even with your distractions. I've only made 1/2 box this week. Too hot in the shed. :(

[shedbound]

Those boxes are looking fantastic, you could let the imagination run wild on these things, my guess as to the unknown timber would be Merbau
cheers
Joel

[Sturdee]

Those boxes are looking fantastic, you could let the imagination run wild on these things, my guess as to the unknown timber would be Merbau
cheers
Joel

Thanks Joel, your guess is correct as another turner, on seeing the boxes in person, confirmed it as well.


I still prefer to work with Cypres pine for these boxes. A fencer working a few houses from me, today gave me two 500 mm length fence post and I will get the rest on Saturday for future turning. :2tsup:


Peter.

[shedbound]

I agree Peter, cypress is lovely to turn and makes the shed smell nice too!

[Grommett]

I find cypress is easy to turn but it does tend to crack. There were a few pieces in our x'mas shop that had been done a couple of months earlier but in a new environment just cracked.

[Sturdee]

This was one of them that seemed easy to make but turned out to be surprisingly difficult as each time I got close to the square edge of the lid the timber seemed to chip. I firstly tried European Beech, then Cypress pine followed with Vic Ash and finally some very old redgum.

The redgum didn't chip but was very hard to turn as I needed the tail stock support and the lid is rather small. Consequently I left the lid a bit thicker then I should but I was getting too frustrated to keep at it. The base was easy as it's a basic brandy-goblet shape.

Finish is a bit different from the usual way as after final sanding of the base on the lathe and the lid being hand sanded I used EEE and Shellowax on the inside of the box and the outside is buffed on my Beall three in one buffing system. I like my fingers too much to risk them by polishing it all on the lathe. :U

Pictures, as usual, shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

303150 and 303149

303148

Enjoy,

Peter.

[Dalboy]

All the boxes are looking good. :2tsup::2tsup:

Only another 38 to go:U:U

[Sturdee]

Only another 38 to go:U:U

If only. :U

Although that was box no 12 in the book, with the variations, I have made 22 boxes since starting on this learning and discovery journey.

I must admit that I'm getting better at them and also quicker. :2tsup:


Peter.

[artme]

You are doing a fine job on the boxes Sturdee!!

I'm really impressed by the square lidded box. It has a distinctly
Chinese look to it.:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Dalboy]

If only. :U

Although that was box no 12 in the book, with the variations, I have made 22 boxes since starting on this learning and discovery journey.

I must admit that I'm getting better at them and also quicker. :2tsup:


Peter.

Ahh but that is still only number 12 in the book:;:;. Glad you are enjoying the journey and that you can see the improvements as you go along. Have fun and look forward to the rest.

[Sturdee]

Today was a good turning day, no interruptions for weekly shopping chauffering duties :U, and although hot the workshop was still quite cool. :2tsup:

The pill boxes were easy to make, so I made two, and I used the European Beech that was useless for the square lidded box. This design breaks the "rules of proportion by having the lid and base almost equal in height" but is still nice to look at. The book treats the lid with chatterwork but also suggests variations with insets in the lid.

As I still have some bright and colourful Paua inserts I decided to make the variations instead of the chatterwork.

Here is a photo of both of them.

303326

The first is a bit taller and has a green Paua insert. The lids are a tight fit as they are meant to be carried, with pills inside, in a ladies handbag so they should not come apart accidentally. Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax and then buffed. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

303320 and 303321

303322


The second one is a bit smaller with a red Paua insert. Otherwise the same as the other.

303323 and 303324

303325

I personally like the second one better to look at but the first will allow more pills to be carried.

Enjoy.

Peter.

[Hermit]

Two more nice little boxes Peter. Are they getting smaller?
(Edit: Of course they are - they're portable pill boxes. :doh:)

I like those Paua inserts, too. :2tsup: (I think I like them more than chatterwork.)

I've been playing with inserts a little more myself, but only timber, nothing fancy.

[Sturdee]

Two more nice little boxes Peter. Are they getting smaller?
(Edit: Of course they are - they're portable pill boxes. :doh:)

I like those Paua inserts, too. :2tsup: (I think I like them more than chatterwork.)

I've been playing with inserts a little more myself, but only timber, nothing fancy.

Thanks Steve, playing with inserts can be fun. I have used foreign coins, cheap ear studs, inlay stone work and glitter where appropriate as it adds another interest to some plain timbers or designs.


Peter.

[Dalboy]

Looking good beech being quite a plain wood unless it is spalted needs something to help lift the piece which you have managed.


I have used foreign coins, cheap ear studs, inlay stone work and glitter where appropriate as it adds another interest to some plain timbers or designs.

Peter.

You mean you put Australian coins in them:q:hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

[artme]

:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[Sturdee]

You mean you put Australian coins in them:q:hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

No, not good coins :o but the cheap English two pound coins, like in the pendant (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/special-pendant-special-gift-171959/)that I made for Mrs. Springwater. :U

Have used various coins in pendants and in the bases of small bowls that were presents. Seems to add that small, but extra touch, to a gift.


Peter.

[Sturdee]

Chris Stott was inspired by a magazine article about a French company winning a design award for a bottle containing spring water. It's an interesting design, but somewhat awkward to turn, especially as I was using some Meranti of cuts.

Because of the shape of this form the spigot needed to be on the lid, rather then on the body and the lid needed to be an easy fit rather then a tight one. I had a very tight fit when shaping most of the lid but then I eased it of a tad to make it easy, forgetting that the meranti needed a bit of sanding after the hollowing on the inside of the base so now it's a too loose fit. Another lesson learned in this journey.

For a specific challenge I tried to make the sides very thin, the sides in the lid is 3 mm thick and the base 4 mm thick.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

303397 and 303395

303396

Enjoy,

Peter.

[Sturdee]

Seeing that I've made 25 boxes so far in this journey of discovery of making boxes of various shapes and sizes I thought a progress shot might be of interest.

303399



I'll do another when I reach 50.

Enjoy,


Peter.

[Hermit]

That's quite a collection Peter. Nice work. :2tsup:
A good range of boxes so far. You'll be the resident box expert by the end of your journey.
Looking forward to the next installment.

[tea lady]

:2tsup:Good collection.

[Dalboy]

No, not good coins :o but the cheap English two pound coins, like in the pendant (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/special-pendant-special-gift-171959/)that I made for Mrs. Springwater. :U

Have used various coins in pendants and in the bases of small bowls that were presents. Seems to add that small, but extra touch, to a gift.


Peter.

That pendant looks good, Two pound coins are great for this type of insert as they use two types of metal giving a nice contrast.

Like the tear drop shaped box.

[Sturdee]

After a hectic non turning week at last I managed to get some turning done today. :2tsup:

The next box was the ginger jar box which was interesting to make and not very difficult. For the timber I used the same timber as in box 10 which is either a fine grained oregon or baltic pine. Some turners, that know more about timber varieties then I, have seen the timber can't be certain what it is. Not really important as, with care, it gives a nice finish.

For the hollowing of the inside of the box I used Vermec's ultimate deep hollowing system, which is very easy to use.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

304222 and 304223

304224

Enjoy,


Peter.

[Sturdee]

.... the lid needed to be an easy fit rather then a tight one. I had a very tight fit when shaping most of the lid but then I eased it of a tad to make it easy, forgetting that the meranti needed a bit of sanding after the hollowing on the inside of the base so now it's a too loose fit.


I haven't been happy with the way the lid became too loose a fit so I decided to make another one. I know I'm a glutton for punishment but it really annoyed me. :~

The new one is slightly smaller because the wood I wanted to use was a bit smaller and is Cypress pine. Making the lid went fine and again I had a tight fit onto the base for the basic shaping. After hollowing out the base I took care with sanding but again the inside rim became too large for a firm fit. Turned out the sandpaper was too big and I was sanding the inside rim without realizing. :C As the base was still in the chuck I used CA glue to form a thick ring on the inside of the rim of the base and after drying scraped it back to make the lid a firm fit.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

304431 and 304432

304433

Seeing that this worked well I did the same to the original one, holding it in one of my mdf faced Cole jaws and kept in place with a long dowel held into my Sorby revolving centre. This allowed me to scrape of the excess with a small mini scraper as shwon here.

304434

I don't know if you can see the glue on the photos, but it's quite smooth and I'm now happy with both of the boxes.

304435

Enjoy,


Peter.

[tea lady]

Hi Peter, I do these with not so much of a thin rim on the lid or the base. If you have the lid coming down a bit further into the round part instead of to the top you can find more wood to do the flange. And a little bit more of an ogee curve in the drip shape. And a point that won't kill anyone of they fall on it? :CYou alsao might find that if the fit is to tight you can't get a grip on the lid.

Maybe the next turning gathering could be about lidded boxes? :D

Here is a couple of pics of one of my drip boxes. The simple shape really appeals to me, but very hard to get the curve just right.
304439304440

[Sturdee]

Thanks TL for your post, I realize that if I made the base shorter the opening would be bigger and this problem would not arise, neither if I made the box bigger.

However part of my own perverse challenge is to try to make them as close as possible to how Chris Stott does them. His box has an internal opening of 33.5 mm and my first box was close at 35 mm and the second a bit smaller at 31 mm. With such a narrow opening it's very difficult to sand the inside of the bottom. I now realize that I should have done it the other way around and hollow the base, sand and polish first before making the top to fit.

Another simple lesson learned in the art of box making. :U

Peter.

[tea lady]

Thanks TL for your post, I realize that if I made the base shorter the opening would be bigger and this problem would not arise, neither if I made the box bigger.

However part of my own perverse challenge is to try to make them as close as possible to how Chris Stott does them. His box has an internal opening of 33.5 mm and my first box was close at 35 mm and the second a bit smaller at 31 mm. With such a narrow opening it's very difficult to sand the inside of the bottom. I now realize that I should have done it the other way around and hollow the base, sand and polish first before making the top to fit.

Another simple lesson learned in the art of box making. :U

Peter.:think: Its not really the height, but where on the curve the lid flange goes. :shrug: I roll the sand paper into a tight tube about pencil thickness to sand inside.

[Sturdee]

:think: Its not really the height, but where on the curve the lid flange goes. :shrug: I roll the sand paper into a tight tube about pencil thickness to sand inside.

I think we were trying to say the same thing. Maybe I wasn't clear enough.

Peter.

[wheelinround]

Peter I have popped in here as you have gone along the route and am amazed at how many you have done. Not just that but you put the collective photo up also that saved me asking that question :p

Thanks for the journey

Ray

[tea lady]

I think we were trying to say the same thing. Maybe I wasn't clear enough.

Peter.
:cool:

[Sturdee]

Today was another box turning day.This one is named the Collector's box as Chris found this to be popular with collectors of boxes and I quite like the shape of the box myself, worthy of collecting. :U

For the timber I used an old bed post found along the side of the road and it appears to be a standard hardwood. I am slowly going through my accumulated store of timber that I picked up that might be useful for turning and small boxes is an ideal way of using that.

It turned well and whilst turning there appeared what seemed to a knot in the wood but which turned to out to be an old bit of cross dowel to hold the bedhead in place. A bit of CA glue helped to hold it in place and fix the tear out it caused.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

304788 and 304789

304790

Enjoy,

Peter.

[Sturdee]

This Mosque box from Chris is based on a design by Richard Raffan.

Making the box was not too difficult, maybe I'm getting more proficient at making them but they are getting more complicated and taking a bit more time to do.

The wood I used was again Cypress pine which is an easy wood to turn and finish is as usual, sanded to 600, with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

304872 and 304871

304873 and 304874


Enjoy,

Peter.

[Oldgreybeard]

You are really becoming a master of the small boxes. Notice that you are using cypress pine, if you haven't seen my post, there is still plenty of it on the nature strip in Sherwood Rd Mt Waverley - Free and cut today.
Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

Peter,
I forgot to mention that I have Richard Raffan's book "Turning Boxes" if you would like to borrow it - It focuses on design factors more than turning techniques per se.
Bob

[Sturdee]

You are really becoming a master of the small boxes. Notice that you are using cypress pine, if you haven't seen my post, there is still plenty of it on the nature strip in Sherwood Rd Mt Waverley - Free and cut today.
Bob

Bob, I'd love some but I won't be able to collect any until Sunday and no doubt by then it will all be gone. :C The book by Raffan on turning boxes I've got on loan from my local library, slowly reading through it.


Peter.

[Oldgreybeard]

Bob, I'd love some but I won't be able to collect any until Sunday and no doubt by then it will all be gone. :C
Peter.

I will try and pick some up for you in the morning - let you know if I am successful.
Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

I will try and pick some up for you in the morning - let you know if I am successful.
Bob

Decided to go around this evening - Here is your present.

304882

PM me for address to pickup.
Bob

[Beedeejay]

300704[/ATTACH] and 300705

300706

The second one is a bit larger then the first as can be seen when side by side. Both are a firm fit which, because of the style, took some time.

300707

Enjoy,


Peter.


Id say Kwila looking at it, or merbau as it is also known,

did you end up with black hands. I do whenever I turn it:((

This is a great thread to follow btw, :2tsup:


Cheers Ben

[Sturdee]

Id say Kwila looking at it, or merbau as it is also known,

did you end up with black hands. I do whenever I turn it:((

This is a great thread to follow btw, :2tsup:


Cheers Ben

Thanks Ben, someone else suggested that it might be merbau as well. Can't remember if it stained my hands, will have to use it again and check.

Glad you are enjoying the thread, knowing that it is read makes me determined to finish them all, at least give them all a try. Next will be an egg box followed by a ball box. Been looking forward to doing them. :2tsup:


Peter.

[Sturdee]

This was an interesting box to make. Although I have previously turned a few eggs making them into a box was a bit more difficult.

For the reverse turning of the egg box I used an egg chuck that I made when I was turning those eggs. For the idea of the chuck I want to thank Vern, aka TTIT, who gives full instructions on this and how to make eggs on his website (http://www.ttit.id.au/eggpage/eggmain.htm), definitely worth looking at.

I made two eggs as I had a problem with the first one.

305678

The first one was made out of some very old hardwood, originally part of a bearer of an old canvas stretcher. I had problems with chuck holding on this so the top hollowing is a bit of centre, but I finished it, so I could relearn the steps to be taken ( and I don't give up too easily. :U )

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

305672 and 305673

305674


The next one, worked properly and is a keeper. :2tsup: The wood for this one was again Cypress pine and finish is as usual, sanded to 600, with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

305675 and 305676

305677


Enjoy,

Peter.

[powderpost]

Nice work Peter... :2tsup:
Jim

[Sturdee]

Chris states as introduction that a spherical box looks easy to make, but looks can be deceptive. Having tried to make them I fully concur.

About two years ago as a club challenge I made a few ball, and every so often I've made more, including in Corian, to keep in practice as per photo below.

306191

So I thought making a box in them would be relative easy. Unfortunately that was not the case.

I tried to make five boxes and number two and four shattered apart in the process and the other three are not perfect but IMO acceptable.

The first box is out of pine and is pretty good except there was some tear out. It's sanded to 400 and finished with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the front / top, insides views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

306192 and 306193

As I wanted to improve on the first box I made the next box out of some old hardwood . This turned out quite well but the joint ended up being a bit rough. It's sanded to 400 and finished with EEE and Shellowax on the inside but the outside, after sanding, I buffed on the Beal three in one buffing system. That works well as it's permanently set up on a spare lathe in my workshop.

Pictures shows the front / top, insides views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

306194 and 306195

For the final box I made it bigger using Cypress pine. The inside hollowing was very easy as I used my goblet drill bit which drills a nice hole that only required a bit of fine sanding. Finish was the same as box number three.

306196 and 306197


With each of them the basic shaping into a ball was easy but when turned and held between centres for reverse turning the last stubs away I started to have problems. With a normal ball there is no problem but with two halves and pressure at wrong positions made the two halves shift around, thus the walls are uneven thickness on some parts and not perfectly round.

This would have been avoided with screw joints but I'm not up to that at this stage of my turning. Jim, if you lived closer I would have asked you to do the threads for me.:U

Also if I was making a few I would have made a ball chuck, similar to the egg chuck, or the ones that David Springett published in one of his books.

Ideally I should have used both, and if I decide to go down this track again I would at least make a chuck. Nevertheless, notwithstanding the problems I had, it was four days enjoyable turning.

Enjoy.

Peter.

[Dalboy]

Great job Peter does it have a slight flat spot to stand on or it is free to roll around.

[Sturdee]

Great job Peter does it have a slight flat spot to stand on or it is free to roll around.

Thanks Derek.

There are no flat spots, so they are free to roll.

For display purposes I thought of turning some small rings for them to rest in and some small eggcups for the egg boxes.


Peter.

[Dalboy]

I like the idea of the rings as stands:2tsup:

[artme]

Should drop in here more frequently!!

Great progress Peter!!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Certainly the variety must be getting your skill levels a lift and of course
the interest level and challenges are bound to keep you going!!:):)

[Sturdee]

Certainly the variety must be getting your skill levels a lift and of course
the interest level and challenges are bound to keep you going!!:):)

Thanks,

Yes, I'm learning and improving as I go along. And every box has a new challenge.:2tsup:

The other thing that will make sure I keep going and finish the 50 designs is that if I stop everyone who are watching will ribb me mercilessly. :U


Peter.

[Grommett]

Thanks, Yes, I'm learning and improving as I go along. And every box has a new challenge.:2tsup: The other thing that will make sure I keep going and finish the 50 designs is that if I stop everyone who are watching will ribb me mercilessly. :U Peter.

So true.

[Sturdee]

So true.

You won't get the chance for I'll finish them all or if a particular one, after giving it a good try, is too difficult I'll say so and why. For even not succeeding with some is part of the learning experience.

Peter.

[Dalboy]

You won't get the chance for I'll finish them all or if a particular one, after giving it a good try, is too difficult I'll say so and why. For even not succeeding with some is part of the learning experience.

Peter.

Difficult is no excuse but impossible we will let you off:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

[Sturdee]

For this box I altered it somewhat from the book. Chris used a plank of Yew with sapwood along the sides to make the original. Hence he was able to use a screw chuck to make the basic shape.

I'm not so fortunate enough to have such exotic timber available but I still have a fair supply of Geronggong posts, using normal end grain, available for making the saucer box of this size.

This timber, being not good turning timber, required extensive sanding and a suitable clear grain filler/sealer (like diluted NC lacquer) would have been helpful, but they are not available in small quantities. I have tried shellac in the past but this required a number of applications and made the wood too dark.

Finish is as usual with EEE and Shellowax. Pictures shows the top, front, insides and the bottom views, each with a 50 cent piece for size indication.

306799 and 306800

306801 and 306802

The boxes are becoming more interesting in shape and challenging and taking more time to do but also more rewarding.

Enjoy,


Peter.