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Woodturner101
7th June 2014, 05:46 PM
Can anyone tell me what tree this burl came from? also I finished the bowl with shellawax cream and it went hard in the cracks, is there any way to remove it from the cracks?

316004

BlackbuttWA
8th June 2014, 10:34 AM
I overcome this problem with a blow torch, start off on low flame, then use an old paint brush to get into the cracks.
As for the burl timber it could be one of several. Sorry

HTH
Col



Can anyone tell me what tree this burl came from? also I finished the bowl with shellawax cream and it went hard in the cracks, is there any way to remove it from the cracks?

316004

Pat
8th June 2014, 10:57 AM
WT101, what trees are local to your area? This might give a clue to the identity. I can tell you what it is not, Gray Box, White Box etc.

For finishing burls, you either have to have no cracks for creams and waxes or use oil or oil & poly. Oil finishes are good, but prep and waiting times can be off putting. For me, I sand to 600, using sanding sealer to raise the nub for the last 2 grits (400 & 600). A soaking coat for the first coat, with wiping off any residue after 20 minutes, then a coat a day for a week, a coat a week for a month, then leave for a month. After a month's rest decide if the piece is to be used and then several light coats of spray poly over several days.

Not a quick fix, but one that will handle daily use.

For getting rid of waxes/creams, the blow torch on low or a hair dryer and pick or my favourite, tooth pick and time, while cursing my stupidity:doh:

smiife
8th June 2014, 08:09 PM
Hi wt101,
I ain, t no expert, and I am sure I will be
corrected but could you use a microwave?

turnerted
9th June 2014, 05:50 PM
A bit hard to say what this burl is.
Any of the suggestions are worth trying to get the wax out of the cracks but which ever way you do it , it will probably wreck the rest of the finish.Clean it up as best you can then resand to get back to bare wood.
My technique is after sanding, wipe with turps to clean up any dust,it will also show up any toolmarks you have missed,then I usually apply nitrocelulose sanding sealer then danish oil. Leave to stand overnight,buff up on the lathe then repeat over the next two days with more DO.I rarely apply more than three coats of DO.If the burl has many deep surface cracks , I may omit the sanding sealer because it may leave a whiteish deposit in the cracks.
Ted

Woodturner101
9th June 2014, 08:44 PM
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I might just make the walls a little thinner and finish it with danish oil.