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Evanism
9th July 2014, 10:23 PM
Hi all,

I've turned a lot, al bowls, but spindle turning has really taken off as heaps of people seem to want it all of a sudden.

Yesterday I turned HEAPS and found the 120 sandpaper did an excellent job sanding. It is only a crappy painters roll I found.

I was wondering, after looking at TSPM and GPW, what the best grit and roll to get is. All the backing choices seem confusing. C-weight, fabric, paper, cloth....

The 80 roll I have is hideous, it doesn't move and the edges are sharp (it is, again, just some generic painters roll from the hardware store).

What is the experience here as for what's best? And where to get it?

chuck1
9th July 2014, 10:44 PM
I do alot of spindle turning, J weight material backed is the best I find.
as far as brands, Hermes, sait and the colour coded sanding cloth are great.
Hermes is the most expensive but lasts longer. At work I use sait I think it is and is very good. And at home I've got the colour coded stuff which goes well.
With turning balusters the off the finish I can usually start at 180 grit going through to 600 ,
at work most Turning is painted and get away with 120 and 150 grit
we don't use any paper back paper as when folded the grit crumbles off very quickly and thrown away.apart from wet and dry 800 to 1200.
I hope my thoughts help!

jefferson
9th July 2014, 10:48 PM
Jim Carroll (or at least I think it was Jim) told me once to aim to start sanding spindles at 240 grit. That requires good tool work and I think it's great advice. Depends too on what wood your are turning (fiddleback anything can test you). Either way, I'd say sharpen the chisels, take lighter cuts and cut if possible with the grain.

Nobody likes sanding, me included, so I try to spend more time on the tools and start with a higher grade paper.

I use the W & D, plus the color coded stuff, not as good Hermes but I'm lazy.

Evanism
10th July 2014, 03:07 AM
I can only aspire to be so good.

Until then, it's practice practice practice. I'll order some colour paper for the journey. HCF seems to have a good supply.

Many thanks.

Hermit
10th July 2014, 08:37 AM
I like the colour-coded stuff too, 80-120-180-240-320-400, then 600 W&D.
Following the 1.5 rule - each grit about 1.5 times the previous.
(I printed a small colour/grit chart, laminated it, then stuck it on the side of the lathe to aid my failing memory.)

You'll rarely need to start at 80g or 120g, but they're handy sometimes.

I get it from The Sandpaper Man (http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/home.php).
(Great prices, fast delivery and also a forum sponsor.)

Mobyturns
10th July 2014, 09:01 AM
On exterior of small bowls and spindle work I use Sia paper backed sand paper cut down from the standard sheet into 20 to 25 mm squares, bit bigger rectangles for larger items. It is great for maintaining sharp detail that cloth backed paper can never preserve on fine work. I usually start at at least 320 and more likely 400 or 600# if at all on fine spindles as the aim is no sandpaper at all. Haven't used anything under 240# in a long time on spindle work but that came from practice, practice, practice. No sandpaper should be the aim for generic spindle items like fish dongers and rolling pins.

Hermes is my preference for cloth backed rolls and Astradot for discs. Another paper well worth looking at for spindle work is Rhino paper backed as it cut into long strips performs quite well and the price is OK.

powderpost
10th July 2014, 11:37 AM
Jim Carroll (or at least I think it was Jim) told me once to aim to start sanding spindles at 240 grit. That requires good tool work and I think it's great advice. Depends too on what wood your are turning (fiddleback anything can test you). Either way, I'd say sharpen the chisels, take lighter cuts and cut if possible with the grain.

I use Hermes J weight (Jeans weight cloth backed), it lasts well and can be folded to form a nice cylinder for hollows or folded to sand flats and convex curves. I agree, use sharp tools and start with 240 grit then 320 grit, up to 1200 grit, dependent on the type of finish, best way to go.

Jim

issatree
10th July 2014, 12:39 PM
Hi Evanism,
Well I have only ever used Hermes 406 J Flex, & I don't think there is another Sandpaper to be as good. Yes, maybe a little expensive.
I now, also use some Crash Repair Wet & Dry, mainly used in QLD, or so I'm told.
Called " Indasa, Rhino Wet Red Line ". Made in Portugal. Goes from 240G to 1200G. Can't speak highly enough of this Paper. Wood not use it on Pine.
Just goes & goes & goes, & as I wear a White Chemical Suit, I just clean the Paper on them, & the Paper is just as clean as when I started.

jefferson
10th July 2014, 10:16 PM
Listen to Jim and Issatree. Jim in particular knows his turning. He's sweet to watch. I am just forcing myself to use better tool control and inferior sandpaper, just to get better with the tools. The colour coded stuff is convenient but IMO not as good as the J Flex.

george mavridis
13th July 2014, 02:44 PM
I was a metal polisher for many years and am familiar with most abrasives out there. SIA J flex are great and very flexible and give a good finish. Hermes J flex are well priced and have along life and represent better value. Stay away from paper backed as they don't have the flexibility you need.

Evanism
14th July 2014, 03:13 AM
thanks for all the advice all. I purchased a 5 pack colour backed kit from HW4CF and it arrived Saturday. Excellent service.

I tried the 120 on a quick spindle....holy cow. It was sooooo very nice.

There is a little multi roll I bought for pens and it works even better than that. The way it tears into arbitrary chunks is excellent.

Over the coming weeks/months, I'll save the lettuce and grab some Sia and Hermes as suggested many times..... I'll need to get good ASAP, the orders just keep flying in. It's getting explosive.