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View Full Version : Taking the chainsaw to Japanese Cedar - help!!



Phily
12th August 2014, 04:33 PM
One of those dreamed about phone calls: neighbour says "I've just had a big tree cut down and the arborist said its a Japanese Cedar and woodturners love this stuff - do you want it??". errrr, yes please ………!!!!

As you can see from my helmet, there are quite a few logs - the shots are of about half of the available timber.

I started cutting per the usual way of slicing out the pith but stopped after half a dozen logs thinking it wise to post a few of questions as I have never dealt with this timber before:

Should I cut the logs or just end seal them & remove the bark ?

Would it be worth the expense of taking the timber to a kiln and pay for it to be dried out by the professionals? If so, how should it be cut?

I have heard that the timber looses its dark colour when seasoned. Is this true and if so, is there a way of preserving the colour?

Next questions will be about where to store it and how to fix up my back after all the cutting and carrying !!!!!

NB. sorry that the photo's are sideways and upside down - I haven't figured out how to rotate them!

Cheers
Phil


322124 322125 322126

turnerted
12th August 2014, 05:30 PM
The way you are cutting the logs looks spot on to me and I would cut all but the smallest stuff down the pith . Seal the ends of any slabs that you are not going to cut bowls out immediatly asap.Bowl blanks seal all round the perimeter .I use candle wax but you could use a couple of coats of water based paint too.I don't bother to remove the bark.Probably not worth kiln drying unless you have contacts and can get it done free.
Ted

Phily
12th August 2014, 05:44 PM
Thanks Ted, I was kind of hoping that the advice would be to "keep them whole and get them kiln dried" - only because my back is going to kick up one hell of a stink after chainsawing for 3 days !!! Still, it could be far worse. No wood to cut in the first place!:rolleyes:

smiife
12th August 2014, 08:27 PM
Hi phil,
Sounds like you need some help and a packet
of voltaren!!!
I am sure there would be some members down
your way willing to help for some free wood!!:U

Phily
12th August 2014, 11:03 PM
Not a bad idea - on both fronts. What I don't take will end up in the neighbours firewood pile - a waste!

Christos
14th August 2014, 05:51 PM
The photos have been fixed. If these were taken with a camera phone the images sometime get rotated. I have found that I can rotate the phone and when it uploads they display right side up.
Or

I download the photos to the computer then right them before posting.


Also want to say what a great score on the timber. Might be worth getting someone to help and offer them free timber for someone that is willing to help, always a good thing. I will just add that once you cut these into turning blanks you might end up with some odd shapes. Might be able to get a few pen blanks out of them but some will just unusable. These pieces I pass onto a friend and he uses them in the wood fire.

Phily
14th August 2014, 07:08 PM
Thanks Christos, really appreciated - they look a whole lot better :U

I've cut out and sealed a heap of blanks. Enough for 20 to 25 decent size bowls though have hardly touched the pile.

The balance is getting chipped next week. For a case of Japanese or Italian beer I will lug over a dozen of the bigger logs for pick up from the Southern Highlands. They will have to be picked up fairly soon as I have run out of end sealer.

If anyone is interested please send me a message and I'll pass on the pickup address.


NB for the cost of postage I have a pile of pen blanks of mixed timbers

Cheers

Paul39
15th August 2014, 01:35 AM
Phily,

The Japanese Cedar I that grows here is not prone to checking or cracking as badly as many other timbers. Eastern Red and White are also pretty stable.

The color may fade some but you will still get a nice contrast.

Most green timber I just split down the middle and stack.

Nice acquisition.

tea lady
15th August 2014, 10:58 AM
Nice timber. Jap cedar has the same chemical in is as absinth. Which is why bugs don't like it I guess. Anyway. My nose doesn't like it now so dust mask even if its not bothering you. It will.

Also its very soft to turn. Tear out easily so super sharp chisels needed to finish. Very difficult to get all sanding marks out. I ended up wet sanding it with burnishing oil. Maybe if you are green turning it you could wet sand it with water. It washes the grit away I think so that it doesn't hang around and make scratches for you later. Fun though, cos you can turn really big things without it being that heavy.

One finish I muched about with when I got jack of trying to get the surface perfect was to brush it with a wire brush with the lathe going. You get concentric rings and the grain shows through. Can be a cool effect on the outside of bowls. I can post a pick on a platter I did like that if you like.

Phily
15th August 2014, 11:00 AM
Thanks Paul, I'm pleased to hear. I have seen examples of some cedar that ends up looking a bit like radiata pine. The colours in this timber are really rich - it would have been a real shame to have it all fade.

Phily
15th August 2014, 11:15 AM
Thanks Tea Lady, I noticed quite a "unique" smell when I was cutting the blanks. I actually didn't mind it but could understand that it would 'get to you' quite quickly in a confined space.

Very much appreciate the finishing advice (and yes, please post a photo). I must admit that I enjoy turning and finishing harder woods (one of my favourites being Tonka) as I get impatient working a finish into soft woods. Sounds like I will need to do a bit of meditating prior to turning these blocks!!

Cheers
Phil

Drillit
16th August 2014, 11:33 AM
Just a small suggestion - with the pieces that you are keeping with the bark on,
cut about 50 mm back from each end (ringbark) and remove bark and then seal to prevent
cracks/splits at the ends. You might have to give (2)coats of end grain sealer for
certainty. Regards, John M.

Phily
16th August 2014, 01:26 PM
Thanks John, thats's a new one for me. Do you know the reason why trimming the edges like that makes a difference - I'm guessing it reduces the amount of end grain drying ? Is this recommended for all logs or just softwoods?
Cheers
Phil

hughie
16th August 2014, 06:24 PM
Just got back from Phils with a nice load of Cedar and there still plenty to go around.

Many thanks Phil, much appreciated. :2tsup:

Phily
16th August 2014, 09:38 PM
No worries Hughie. Good meeting you

tea lady
16th August 2014, 09:50 PM
Thanks Tea Lady, I noticed quite a "unique" smell when I was cutting the blanks. I actually didn't mind it but could understand that it would 'get to you' quite quickly in a confined space.


Cheers
PhilI still quite like the smell, but my nose gets very irritated anyway.

Will try and take picks tomorrow.

powderpost
16th August 2014, 10:36 PM
You people have all the fun.. :)

Jim

Drillit
17th August 2014, 11:49 AM
Just a small suggestion - with the pieces that you are keeping with the bark on,
cut about 50 mm back from each end (ringbark) and remove bark and then seal to prevent
cracks/splits at the ends. You might have to give (2)coats of end grain sealer for
certainty. Regards, John M.

It helps to stop the cracking/splitting at the edges, which is where most of it starts in my experience.
This is because there is nothing to stop the splitting where the bark goes up to the end grain. John M.

Phily
17th August 2014, 08:10 PM
I've learned a great deal from this discussion - and look forward to seeing the photo's. Cheers guys.