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jabell
15th December 2014, 10:34 AM
I'm turning a Newel post for a staircase, and need to run wiring up the centre to a light switch that will be mounted near the top. I'm doing the post in 3 sections, but the centre section will be about 600mm long.
I know people do these long holes as I have a lamp shade in my lounge room that is quite thin but some how avoided the hole drifting off centre and exiting out the side half way.

How is it done? Spade bit on an extension? Forstner bit?

The post will probably be about 65mm+ at its narrowest, and as 5 wires need to go up to a 3 rocker switch, the hole needs to be about 28mm diameter.

Jim Carroll
15th December 2014, 12:59 PM
Most long hole boring tools will only go about 400mm so need to be drill from both ends and hopefully you meet somewhere in the middle. and suitable for lamp wire only 3/8"
Another option is to have a junction box at the base somewhere and run the 2 wires to the lamp

For the size you require you will need to use a forstner bit or spade bit with a lot of moving in and out to clear the swarf.

the other option is to have a split turning and rout a groove in the middle and then glue together then turn the peice.

jabell
15th December 2014, 01:38 PM
run the 2 wires to the lamp
.

Problem is that it is a 3 rocker switch, two on 2-way switching, so there are 5 wires, so 28mm is probably the smallest that will fit them.

I had thought of getting some 30mm steel bar and as I also have a metal lathe, machine it down to say 27mm and with a MT3 taper on one end, bore a hole in the other end of it and fit in a forstner bit, and make it all long enough to do the distance. By leaving the forstner bit protruding 100mm beyond the bar, that space will catch the swarf, and as you say, remove often to empty it. By making the bar almost the same diameter, there hopefully will be little opportunity to wander off at a tangent. Just an idea, perhaps good in theory:no:

oreos40
15th December 2014, 01:40 PM
If you are laminating the post glue it together with a void in the center section by cutting the center lamination into two pieces. then space the center with a channel from end to end. or if you feel you must drill kerf the center lamination before assembly and then the drill will follow the path of least resistance.

Hermit
15th December 2014, 02:10 PM
28mm is a pretty big hole. How thick are the wires? If 5 wires really fill a 28mm diameter hole, it sounds like the wire size might be overkill.
If the current is to be no more than 10A, 5 wires the same thickness as those in a heavy-duty insulated extension lead would be fine, and certainly fit in a much smaller diameter than 28mm.

Just the same, as mentioned, laminating the blank together with the hole already through the centre is definitely the way to go for larger holes, either by routing the halves or by using two narrow strips at the centre with a gap in between, sandwiched between wider boards.
Much easier than trying to bore a large-diameter long-hole.

jabell
15th December 2014, 02:22 PM
5 wires the same thickness as those in a heavy-duty insulated extension lead would be fine, and certainly fit in a much smaller diameter than 28mm.
.

There are 3 x 1mm twin and earth, and 2 x 1mm twins. I could probably get them into a 25mm hole, I was just tying to make it easier to pull through. Laminating two pieces with a routed groove may ultimately be what I have to do, but I just happen to have a 100 x 100 piece of oregon laying around:U

Hermit
15th December 2014, 02:25 PM
Ah, 5 x 2/3-core cables. That's a lot of wire. 13 wires really.

Blarney
15th December 2014, 03:24 PM
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=83866&highlight=boring

Hermit
15th December 2014, 03:34 PM
http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=83866&highlight=boring

does it again. :cool:

Thanks for the link, Blarney, that was a good read. :2tsup:

turnerted
15th December 2014, 04:09 PM
jabell
The homemade extension you are talking about building would be limited by the travel of your tailstock quill.
Ted

chuck1
15th December 2014, 04:39 PM
I have long hole drills I use for lamps and a re-grinded spade bit to about 45 degrees, works really well on end grain. Mr Hatfield our tafe Teacher showed us how.
So you could pre bore in the lathe then open it up with a special spade bit and extension bars. But like the others said about laminating with hole.
Going to be an expensive post when it's finished!

jabell
15th December 2014, 08:51 PM
jabell
The homemade extension you are talking about building would be limited by the travel of your tailstock quill.
Ted
Yes it will be. Would have to stop every 50mm to reverse out and empty the shavings.

jabell
15th December 2014, 08:53 PM
Going to be an expensive post when it's finished!
Yes, well. its one of those jobs I never finished, um, er, 20 years ago!:oo:

So its gotta be done, one way or the other. It was a good idea at the time, running 3 lots of 2 way switching up a newel post so that it would be easy to turn on the lights when I got to the top. Except not hugely easy to actually make:U

Mobyturns
15th December 2014, 09:49 PM
65 mm dia with a 28 mm dia hole = a tube with a 19 mm wall thickness. For a newel post that is probably getting a bit thin given the leverage a newel post suffers.

I would be inclined to rip the newel post blank down the middle, use a router with a core box router bit to cut the two halves of the hole, laminate the two blank halves back together again and machine back to a square blank. Absolutely no worries about long hole boring not meeting in the center etc.

RedShirtGuy
15th December 2014, 09:57 PM
Bah. I thought this discussion was about the Gunsan Country Club golf course in Korea which has a 1007m, par 7.

Geddit?...boring, long holes...

*sigh* Shuttup Redders :qHehehe

DaveTTC
15th December 2014, 10:01 PM
If you decide to go with your 100x100 and not use the router I would bore from each end and then use your hole as centre each end to turn your post.

You got me tempted to try one just for the sake of it. Pity I have to drive to Sydney in the morning

Keep us 'posted' how you go


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

hughie
15th December 2014, 10:32 PM
Yes it will be. Would have to stop every 50mm to reverse out and empty the shavings.


Shame some of the old lathes had a hollow tailstock quill. Which allowed you to run your extended drill bit through, making whatever the travel of the quill was of no matter.

dai sensei
16th December 2014, 10:25 AM
Problem is that it is a 3 rocker switch, two on 2-way switching, so there are 5 wires, so 28mm is probably the smallest that will fit them.

3 rocker switch normally needs extra wires, but is it needed for the lamp, or just the switch you have? Do you need more than switch it off and on? Perhaps multiple brightness?

Jonzjob
16th December 2014, 10:50 AM
I had to do a long hole jobbie for a standard type angle poise lamp I wanted to make. I just got the 2 pieces on 2" square oak, cut them down the middle on my band saw, routed out the center hole on each side, glued them back together and turned them down as I wanted them and finished up with what I think is a goodie

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/Jonzjob/Johns/Anglepoisestandard2_zpsd06cc801.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Jonzjob/media/Johns/Anglepoisestandard2_zpsd06cc801.jpg.html)

I also have the hollow tailstock and a couple of augers for long hole boring, but they so easily go out of line and unless I have to use them splitting, routing, etc is by far the easiest and most accurate way to go and on a newal post it isn't going to show..

jabell
17th December 2014, 10:10 AM
3 rocker switch normally needs extra wires, but is it needed for the lamp, or just the switch you have? Do you need more than switch it off and on? Perhaps multiple brightness?

The one switch plate controls 3 separate lights, two of which are two-way switching.

powderpost
17th December 2014, 11:26 AM
Split it, router a groove down both pieces, re-join it and glue two squares of 12mm ply to both ends and turn to shape.

Jim

jabell
17th December 2014, 09:01 PM
I also have the hollow tailstock and a couple of augers for long hole boring, but they so easily go out of line and unless I have to use them splitting, routing, etc is by far the easiest and most accurate way to go and on a newal post it isn't going to show..

No point fighting City Hall I think, so I will route and laminate as the consensus recommends. I will however machine up a 25mm steel shaft later on and see how effective it is at preventing a wandering bore hole. Many thanks for all your tips, they have really helped me decide which way to go.

DaveTTC
19th December 2014, 03:42 PM
We'll be looking for progress pics


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

jabell
2nd January 2015, 02:48 PM
We'll be looking for progress pics

Well here goes. After a bit of procrastinating(about 20years actually) and advice from here, I decided to laminate rather than attempting a long bore which at best would probably be 10mm off centre.
Where to get some timber? This bit has been leaning against the back of the shed in the rain for 15 years or more...
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120410_zps61c68872.jpg

Missed a step or two here, but the gist is I cut the big piece down to a size I could put through the planer.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120412_zps27a10ea5.jpg
Planed down one side
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120413_zpsf08c8ab9.jpg

Out with the V bit
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120414_zpsc2835a8d.jpg

Glue it up
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120421_zps08e4808e.jpg

I decided to make this post in 4 sections, the base that gets bolted to the floor joist, the tall spindle thingo bit with the hole in it, the head that has the 3 clicker light switch plate, and a finial on top.
Here is the laminated section taking shape. Not fantastically done, but then I've only been using a lathe for one week, so hopefully I'll get better and quicker.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120430_zpsb8a273da.jpg

The finial
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120434_zpsc79715fc.jpg

Loosely assembled in the shed.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120438_zps6348cc82.jpg

And here is why all the procrastination. Well apart from kids, a few wives, a job, and most distractingly, a BMW F650GS!
The base is bolted to the floor joist here.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120443_zpscde4d643.jpg

Ha! Its up!
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120447_zps2edb6214.jpg

And with the switch plate wired up. So now to paint it to match in with the one at the bottom of the stairs, fill in the old nail holes (remember it was from old scrap behind the shed). All up cost zilch, plus countless hours thinking about how the hell was I going to get it work.
http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i460/twouptourer/Wood%20Turning/P1120450_zpsfcb9ad9a.jpg

cheers
John

DaveTTC
2nd January 2015, 02:57 PM
Great looking job there.:2tsup:

Nothing wrong with your turning abilities or wood work what so ever.

Wives? is that all at once or over the years lol

jabell
2nd January 2015, 03:04 PM
Great looking job there.:2tsup:

Nothing wrong with your turning abilities or wood work what so ever.

Wives? is that all at once or over the years lol

Sequentially! :D

Jonzjob
2nd January 2015, 07:12 PM
If that's what you can produce after just a week on the lathe then I look forward to what comes along after a couple of weeks!!! :D :C

That turned ourt really well, congratulations!! hat lamp I showed earlier was done exactly the same way other than that the upright was done in two bits. Routing the hole make totally sure that yer 'ole is where you want it. Long hole boring a hole that size would have been difficult to say the very least!

If you had used the shiny bit wouldn't there have been a hole down the middle already? :doh::doh:

I'll get me 'at an' coat :B

Paul39
3rd January 2015, 09:54 AM
John,

Very nice work. I really like the shape of the post with the gentle swelling in the middle.

brendan stemp
3rd January 2015, 11:01 AM
I did a video on this subject.
Hope it helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCrETz4RTyM&list=UUYJ4e0XACGJQjJvfmVUcE-Q

jabell
4th January 2015, 01:36 PM
I did a video on this subject.
Hope it helps.


And it did! Very useful - thanks!

jabell
4th February 2015, 11:55 PM
Keep us 'posted' how you go
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art

Here is the final result of my turned post with rail and banisters. (Yes the switch plate is crooked because I haven't tightened the screws down yet)
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339131&stc=1
Found a few other chunks of wood behind the shed for banisters, planed them down, googled for a few arty-farty flowers, got busy with the jigsaw, and turned out okay for a first attempt.

I recently was involved in cleaning out a hoarders house(9 x 6metre skips from in the house!) and acquired a boot full of exotic hard woods, ranging from black ebony to purple eucalypts, to many others and here, a hand rail made of Bocote. I'd never heard of it before, but it comes from Mexico, and it is like machining steel, not so much in hardness, which it is, but because it is so incredibly dense, almost wax like. The varnish coats it more like a plastic coating rather than adhering to the grain. All in all, it was a lot of fun.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=339132&stc=1

DaveTTC
5th February 2015, 08:19 AM
That is a swrrt looking job. Wrll done

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Christos
5th February 2015, 09:57 AM
Well done on completing this project and thank you for sharing.