TRIO

[popawisky]

Thinking of adding the Trio to my arsenal of Dremel stuff.
My main use would be routing for inlays, and using as a "palm router"
I have both router attachments for the 3000, is there any advantage in the Trio??????
My main router is the original Triton, which lives under the router table, thought the lighter Dremel stuff would be more manageable.
Any input would be appreciated.

Pete

[Arron]

I have a trio and I use it a lot.

Its my go-to tool when I need a micro-router. I have various other routers and trimmers as well as a bunch of rotary tools - some in sleds and some not, but the Trio is somehow more useful then all of them.

I think maybe its because it twists in the middle so you can use it with the bulk of the machine parallel to the workbench, rather then sticking up in the air vertically with the centre of gravity so far above the bit (which is the case with a traditional router or rotary tool). Because of its horizontal orientation it seems to better fit the way I intuitively use my hands so therefore more control is exercised over the tool.

I use it mainly for doing rebates for stringing or other inlays. Also rebates for small hinges.

I like it for inlays because these usually require you to route from above, rather then turning the workpiece over and routing on a table (which would be essentially working blind).

I never use it outside a jig or fence system, but I guess that applies to any router.

You have to remember that its for precision work - cant remove much timber at once. Usually I'm using a 1/4 inch bit and only rebating about 2mm deep, which it does OK in one pass, but would struggle if you asked anything more of it.

It comes in for criticism about the limited number of accessories available for it. Also there is no easy/accurate way to set cutting depth - which is an annoying oversight.

cheers
Arron

[Arron]

this is the sort of thing I do a lot with the trio. The wenge stringing is 5mm and the rock maple is 6mm (actually 1/4 inch) - because if both were the same width it would look naff.

The wenge rebate is done first at 6mm - the wenge stringing is glued in. Then the maple rebate is cut slightly overlapping the wenge rebate, reducing it to 5mm. The trio gives me the accuracy required to have no gaps and note that it has avoided chipping the wenge which is not easy.

cheers

Arron

334791

[popawisky]

Ok thanks Aaron.
Food for thought.
I use a Twister saw for 1/4 routing, not brilliant.
I am wanting to try my hand at inlay routing with template guides.
You may have saved me a packet,
Pete