How to transport a Wadkin bandsaw

[woodlogic]

​Hi Folks,

I have purchased a Wadkin DR30 bandsaw, which weighs approximately 940kg and stands 2300mm high. I live in Brisbane and will be picking it up in Forster NSW. I have a 2wd Toyota Hilux, but will likely hire a lowset trailer - which type, I'm not sure.

Can anyone give advice on the best way to transport the bandsaw, and what sort of trailer, straps, method etc would be most appropriate.

Regards,
Raymond.J.B

[elanjacobs]

A trailer is definitely the way to go, it'll keep the weight as low as possible.
There's a good pic of strapping (with what looks like 2000kg ratchet straps) here: http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=198326 and I'm sure Matty (L.S.Barker1970) would be happy to give you a few pointers; he's carted all sorts of machinery around.

[ian]

​Hi Folks,

I have purchased a Wadkin DR30 bandsaw, which weighs approximately 940kg and stands 2300mm high. I live in Brisbane and will be picking it up in Forster NSW. I have a 2wd Toyota Hilux, but will likely hire a lowset trailer - which type, I'm not sure.

Can anyone give advice on the best way to transport the bandsaw, and what sort of trailer, straps, method etc would be most appropriate.

Regards,
Raymond.J.B
Does the place you're buying the bandsaw from have a forklift?

You might be better off hiring a small (car licence) truck with a lift gate plus a pallet jack.
if you have a heavy vehicle licence even better as you could hire a small truck with a hiab crane to off load it your end.

[sion.dovey]

I think alot depends on how you intend to offload it and handle it your end, a bandsaw is a bit of an intimidating load, they look so unstable even when they are on a concrete floor. I would suggest that if you plan to strip it ultimately anyway then my approach would be table off and maybe top wheel assembly off too, before moving it anywhere, it'll be just so much easier to move by hand with that weight off it, and it will be that bit safer for it too. I would expect an hour with good tools would see alot of weight removed.

Alternatively if there is a machine to load it and you have means to handle it your end, I would carry it upright. Carefully tied on with ratchet straps that will be fine. Below is a pic of a 36" bandsaw approx 8' high that I moved recently. There were 4 separate straps on it, each going from a hook, looped round a point on the machine and back to the same hook effectively (one hook along). I think its important not to try and cross the trailer with the same strap, ie, from one side, a turn round the machine and on to a hook on the other side, that method can easily work loose and allow the machine to move either way along the strap. and drive a bit like I haven't tied it on.

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[camoz]

Raymond,

firstly congratulations!

Most horror stories revolve around loading and unloading, when it comes to bandsaws. The weak point is the trunnion, and I always remove the table in transport.

I have straps like Matty, and for their cost they are really good. If the trailer has a slippery base, rubber mat under it may be a good idea to stop any tendency to slide.

Straps are good for easy tie down, but they have the risk of being cut, when rubbing, so I have a section of fire hose threaded over the strap at any rub points. I tend to go overboard on tie down. With this load, I would have a minimum of 4 straps, positioned up high, and then back them up with ropes for redundancies (overkill likely, but on a long trip it is good insurance).

At 941kg load position will be important for a smooth drive too.

some or all the info may be obvious, but thought I would mention it

cheers,

camo

[auscab]

All Good points above from the load masters , all you need is Matty as well . You should see some of the pictures of Sion and his loading techniques on the Canadian forum !! Amazing , he taught us all some very useful info with the use of shear legs .
Ive learned plenty in the last few years from Cam Matty Sion Jack and more . learnig this enables you to acquire the bargains.

As Cam said , load position .
Im still getting used to those ratchet straps , I was a scout as a kid and like my ropes , but I do own some heavy duty straps now .

When I picked up my DR We took it apart . Always take off the table . my trunion bracket is broken ( picture 3) from some previous Dong not doing the right thing .
I took mine on a short trip in a 6x4, the tyres needed a little air . Those DR parts are real heavy . a great saw .

When I went to pick up, I took some 2x4 treated pine and a hand saw , I cut it a fraction over size in length and wedged the base of the saw into position very tightly by hammering them in from 6 or 8 ? angles. So there was no chance of it shifting .

Rob

[clear out]

I have moved a few of this size myself and agree with Sion re stripping it especially the table, my DR30 had a brazed tilt quadrant because this wasn't done prior to my buying it.
The top wheel and guard are also worth removing for weight reduction.
I have in the past been able to lay a big bandsaw down on a long trailer.
Old tyres make a soft bed.
The best solution really is a hi-ab equipped truck and competent machinery mover.
Ive had 9 ft tall machines tilt slung and easily put in thru an 7ft door with no dramas.
This would undoubtedly be inpracticle considering the distance involved.
H.

[L.S.Barker1970]

Great advice from everyone above !
I'm a big user of the wide ratchet straps, you just can't go wrong, try if possible to get a few choker ties around say the neck of the Bandsaw.
That will stop any Lateral movement sideways.
I'm also a big fan of a rubber sheet under the machine, metal to metal has a tendency to slide.
Some of my road trips below any way, hope they help.

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-211_zpsbztixhet.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-215_zpsc9muf0bq.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-214_zps0gqy2nji.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-209_zpsw2sjz40s.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-210_zpsppdcgiqz.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-213_zpsippucb0c.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-211_zpsbztixhet.jpg
http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/matty355/matty355176/image-212_zpstiupyzrx.jpg
Melbourne Matty.

[hiroller]

If you are going to do a road trip with straps, it's always a good idea to put a single twist in the strap across each span. This will prevent the strap from vibrating itself apart on the highway. It also makes less noise.

[woodlogic]

Hi folks,

Thanks for your advice. The fellow I'm buying from has a gantry, so lifting won't be a problem.I also have four 2500kg ratchets straps - not sure if four will suffice. Overall I'm getting the general consensus that:

1. A low base trailer is the best option
2. Remove the table, and if possible, the top wheel and other components that are high. Essentially, keeping as much weight at the bottom.
3. Place rubber under the machine to prevent movement

Now, Camo, you mentioned about positioning the machine. Whereabouts would be the best place on a trailer? In previous shorter trips I've generally placed the machine over the axle, however I read that it's often better to place it slightly forward. What's your experience?

Finally, Matty I noticed with your ratchet straps you haven't merely placed it over the machine to secure, but have looped the strap around itself. Is this to prevent sideways movement?

The only other concern I have is ensuring I hire a trailer with descent strap bars on the side - I quickly looked at the trailers from Uhaul and the side bars seemed very thin and lightly welded to the trailer. Has anyone hired a trailer off another company that was rigid and sound for heavy machinery strapping?

Regards,
Raymond.J.B

[ian]

Hi Raymond

you may want to rethink the trailer.
at 940kg for the bandsaw PLUS the trailer mass you're going to be well over the 750kg gross limit for an unbraked trailer.
Is your Hilux set up to tow a braked trailer?

Perhaps you should consider hiring a small truck -- one that can be driven with a car licence.

[Chris Parks]

I would check that the Hi Lux towing capacity is high enough with the relevant experts. Apparently if it says 2500kg (for instance) that does not mean 2500kg towing but includes what is in the vehicle as well??? There have been some issues around the towing capacities as they are stated but I have never delved into them. As for the position on the trailer there is a maximum vertical load specification on all vehicles and that needs to be allowed for by positioning or spreading the load. Heavier is better than lighter as a general rule. As for twisting straps I have tied and strapped a lot of loads onto trucks and trailers for a living and never seen that done or heard of it.

[woodlogic]

Hi Raymond

you may want to rethink the trailer.
at 940kg for the bandsaw PLUS the trailer mass you're going to be well over the 750kg gross limit for an unbraked trailer.
Is your Hilux set up to tow a braked trailer?

Perhaps you should consider hiring a small truck -- one that can be driven with a car licence.


Thanks for your advice, Ian. I should have mentioned I've already changed my mind about using the Hilux. I have a Landcruiser with a tow pack and brake control which I'll drive instead. I doubled checked the measurements for the tabletop and it should fit in the back fine with the seats folded down.

I'm trying to avoid hiring a truck - the cost is exorbitant for the klms I'll be driving. And where possible, I now always avoid freight companies - already had one machine die because of poor unloading by the freight company at the depot.

[woodlogic]

I would check that the Hi Lux towing capacity is high enough with the relevant experts. Apparently if it says 2500kg (for instance) that does not mean 2500kg towing but includes what is in the vehicle as well??? There have been some issues around the towing capacities as they are stated but I have never delved into them. As for the position on the trailer there is a maximum vertical load specification on all vehicles and that needs to be allowed for by positioning or spreading the load. Heavier is better than lighter as a general rule. As for twisting straps I have tied and strapped a lot of loads onto trucks and trailers for a living and never seen that done or heard of it.

Thanks for your information, Chris. As mentioned in the last post I'll be driving the Landcruiser. Although I hadn't thought about the maximum vertical load specs. I double checked with Qld Transport and I'll certainly by under, particularly once I remove the wheels and guides. The highest point will be the frame of the bandsaw, as all other components will be disassembled. With that in mind, what's your thoughts on the best way to strap the bandsaw?

[Chris Parks]

With a load such as a bandsaw you really have to make it up as you go. As mentioned getting it off is the challenge if you have not got an overhead lift, how are you going to get it off?

[ian]

I have a Landcruiser with a tow pack and brake control which I'll drive instead. I doubled checked the measurements for the tabletop and it should fit in the back fine with the seats folded down.don't forget to firmly strap the top to the floor of the Landcruiser

[Vann]

Boy is this thread timely !!! Today I won this Preston Woodworking Machinery Co. (Canada) bandsaw, with 30" wheels.

359239 359240

On Monday I'll remove the two doors; the guards; the upper wheel; and the table (seeing as broken table trunnions seem to be a regular occurance :C). I have to remove the upper guards and upper wheel, as the machine stands ~2.5m high and the ceiling in my garage is ~2.3m (I'll be cutting a slot in the ceiling when I've got it in its final location (the joists above are 300mm deep)

I'm not sure whether to use a truck with hi-ab, because it won't fit down the driveway, and I had a major hassle with my Wadkin PK two months ago... https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?63335-Wadkin-PK-Marooned (you may need to join that forum to see the pictures)

...or to get a mate to take it on his big trailer - which has a winch and the ability to unload by tipping (direct into my garage). This is only an option because of the short distance - about 6km - so we can do two trips.

Cheers, Vann.

[sion.dovey]

Lovely bandsaw there Vann, congratulations! Maybe needs to go in Mattys' thread too?

Are the towing laws for brakes on the trailer much different in Australia than the UK? Here we can tow 750Kg unbraked and upto 3500Kg braked, and that would be an 'over run' breaking system, so no link with the vehicle brakes, just a damped telescopic hitch that applies the trailers brakes mechanically. The vehicle plate has four weights listed, 1 & 2 being vehicle maximum axle weights, 3 the vehicles max gross weight (always slightly less than the sum of 1 & 2), and the 4th weight being 'Gross Train Weight', being the all up weight of combined vehicle and trailer. When you get pulled in that's the one they look at most keenly, as long as your under that and looking reasonable it seems fine.

[Vann]

Lovely bandsaw there Vann, congratulations! Maybe needs to go in Mattys' thread too?Thanks, I think it's rather ugly myself. I've been on the lookout for a Silver/Cresent (preferably a 24"), but in this neck of the woods I think I'd be waiting a long time...

I don't know if this would be allowed in Matty's thread. Are Canadians really American? :D


Are the towing laws for brakes on the trailer much different in Australia than the UK?To be honest I don't know how much weight is legal here in New Zealand (I could always look it up I suppose). This bandsaw must weigh the best part of a ton. I don't think it would legal behind my 1800cc Corolla. My mate has a big Dodge (wrong side drive). His trailer only has a single axle (uses the same wheels as his Dodge), so I don't think t would be wise to go too far with a load like this.

In the end it will be up to him. But it's only 6km...

Cheers, Vann.

[camoz]

I also have four 2500kg ratchets straps - not sure if four will suffice.

Now, Camo, you mentioned about positioning the machine. Whereabouts would be the best place on a trailer? In previous shorter trips I've generally placed the machine over the axle, however I read that it's often better to place it slightly forward. What's your experience?

For me I go centre and slightly forward.

Another thing worth mentioning if your new to tying a load, is to pull over down the road a bit to check the load has not shifted and that the ropes/straps are all still tight.

If your going with straps, I would again recommend backing them up with some ropes, it will be very cheap insurance with a trip that long. Sorry I have trust issues with straps:U.

If your hiring a trailer, another thing to add to the checklist is to inspect it thoroughly before taking it (tires, lights, tow hitch, safety chain, brakes, wheel nuts, springs, etc.). I've seen some pretty bad, even what I would consider unsafe hire trailers (that's not to say they are all bad).

cheers,

Camo

[DSEL74]

God thread and good tips on tying down and securing the load. How have you guys loaded and unloaded these beasts? How many guys are needed to safely move one?

[elanjacobs]

How have you guys loaded and unloaded these beasts? How many guys are needed to safely move one?
Really depends on what equipment you have available.
A forklift would probably only need 2 people (one driving and one guiding/steadying), once you have to start using more manual methods (chain blocks, pallet jacks, engine lifts, etc) you might need a few extra bodies.

[Vann]

Mine got lifted off its foundation of the last 25 years, by a forklift truck - but not using the tynes. Instead the operator had an attachment that went on the tynes effectively turning it into a crane. He used a soft sling around the upper part of the main casting (near the top wheel support) and gingerly lifted it off. It didn't break the casting (but I did wonder if it might :C).

Then to get it off the trailer, it was lifted the same way, using a hiab to lift it onto a truck, and back off again into storage (where it is still).

Cheers, Vann.

[DSEL74]

Vann, have you fut a hole in the roof yet to get it in??

[Mobyturns]

I've transported a Woodfast BS500 (19") which is nowhere near the weight of the Wadkin. Also removed the table & trunions. BS's are difficult to secure well.

One thing I would suggest is purchasing a couple of 200 x 75 mm or 100mm sleepers to bolt to the feet of the bandsaw. Bandsaws don't have a very large machine footprint and are also relatively top heavy. On a long road trip the machine will move no matter how well strapped it is. Rubber matting will help.

Cut the sleepers to a length just short of the width of the trailer. While you have the machine lifted off its present footing for loading, temporarily lower it down onto the sleepers, mark the holes, lift it up again, then drill the holes and countersink the bottom side of the holes for the bolt heads. Then slide the sleepers back under the machine with bolts inserted, lower machine, do up bolts, load into trailer. This will remove the sideways movement and if you cut some dunnage to size you can also take care of any fore and aft movement as well. Secure the BS with straps etc.


https://www.nobles.com.au/getattachment/Products/Load-Restraint/Restraint-Mate-Webbing-Systems/Restraint-Mate-Truck-Winch-Strap/Care-In-Use-Webbing-Load-Restraint.pdf.aspx

[Vann]

I took delivery of my bandsaw this morning. It came on a truck all strapped down.

362076 Clive had already removed the restraints by the time I remembered my camera.

The big hunk of cast iron to the left of the saw is the motor stand. I'd left it on while being transported, for extra stability.

362077 Lucky that 4"x4" fenceposts are cheap.

I'd measured up the saw and knocked-up this wooden cradle for the trip down the driveway.

362079

Then using the car to restrain it, we rolled it down on 25mm OD heavy wall pipe rollers.

362084 362082 Just some gratuitous tool http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/sad/sneaktongue.gif

Also on the truck was a Bridgeport mill and a Colchester lathe. They weren't for me.

Cheers, Vann.

[camoz]

Vann,

Well done, looks like you had a good plan, and good execution.




362079


Looks like your on a 'Machinery Trail' Are those tracks from a Wadkin PK I see:U

[scamp]

i too have a dr30 that i had to move. my advice if possible, is to remove the 3 large bolts that secure the top wheel and its adjustment mechanism to the main neck of the machine. firstly,its come off easily and it doweled in place for future reassembly and perfect alignment, just be wary of damaging the dowels when lifting the wheel off. the other advantage is how dramatically it lowers the centre of gravity. also remove all guards. At all costs, i would avoid restraining the machine from anywhere on the neck, except for at the very base of the neck close down to the main body, you don't want stress on this point, especially if you hit a bump in the road. the straps will be pulling one way and the saw will be wanting to go another. if you remove the weights from up to, the neck can travel stress free. i also bolted two large posts under my machine to increase its footprint and act like runners to allow it to be roller into the workshop on pipe. if you need any other help. dimensions act, let em

[Vann]

Looks like your on a 'Machinery Trail' Are those tracks from a Wadkin PK I see:UYes :B:B

I re-used the bolts from the Wadkin sled for this one. I hadn't noticed how much of the heads have been worn away on the concrete :o.

Cheers, Vann.