Staunton Chess Set

[Lumber Bunker]

All,

It's been about 6 or so years since I've posted a WIP, so with a little shed time coming up I thought that i would shoot a few photos along the way.
I've teaching the tin-lids (8 & 5 years old) chess, and the eldest is really getting into it :D.
But our current "travel sized" set is woeful, and whilst I bored out the base of the pieces and added weight, they are still, well, rubbish!

So I thought to my self, if I had a chuck I'd have a crack at a set. So i posted on the forums in the marketplace for a scroll chuck and John replied with a few days and "wig-wam-bam" I've a new to me scroll chuck.

Enough jibber-jabber, here we go!

This is the stimulus photograph ripped off Google, search term "staunton chess set"

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A little optimistic? Sure, but why not.
So i looked through the timber store (read that as "pile on the floor") for something suitable.
I found enough Walnut for the blacks but nothing for the white yet...

I spent a night enlarging the above picture and scaling some measurements with what size I wanted.
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Have a look at the knight! I'm dreading that one.

Once i had all the measurements, i rough turned all the stock to a little over the largest base diameter which was 47mm for the King, which meant a close shave from 50mm stock.

Here is a photo of my set up. Sorry for the mess :-

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During the day this south facing window is a great source of soft light, but at night I can't get enough light! What do you guys use as a light source for turning at night?

Once everything is in order i sized my calipers to suit and labeled them... this makes my work MUCH faster. Also the template taped onto some card for longevity.
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Also in the photo are the tools that I'm using. All P&N 25mm skew, 6mm parting tool and spindle gouge.

Here's the action shots!

Blank mounted
1. Bore 3mm hole 40mm deep. This will accept a screw for re-mounting once the base is turned.
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2. Bore a 13mm hole 12mm deep. This is for a weight (hunk of metal bar) that'll be glued in at the end for ballast, and "feel"
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3. True up the base, as the base will be un-seen i just part it with the parting tool and I've made them slightly concave for good bard contact.
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4. caliper the diameter of the base. Mark location of where the depth is required.
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5. Start shaping the base.
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6. Next diameter. I use the calipers in on hand reaching over the back and the parting tool in my other hand, at the same time.
repeat at various locations according to template.
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7. Using the spindle gouge, really trying hard to match the curve by eye.
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8. More caliper work and some tiny tiny beads! I need a 3mm parting tool!
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9. This is as far as I'll go mounted this way, so I give it a good sanding at this stage as when i remount the piece the other way around, it is never perfectly true.
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10. This is my "screw chuck" custom made for this task, I turned an off cut so that it forms a tenon that will match with the mortise that i bored in step 2. It's a tight fit and the screw that is located in the center and tightens to pull the piece down tight, secure and true.
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11. Once turned around and mounted on the screw chuck I gently tighten the scroll chuck and locate the live center at the tail stock end to ensure that the piece is mounted as true as i can. Once the live center is in place i tighten the scroll chuck. remove the tail stock and saw off the waste.
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12. Time for one of the best bits! Now i'm not sure if the original was an actual sphere or not (it looks kind of squashed), but i'm not that good anyways, so a really fat bead will do for the top
:wink:
(wow, look at the state of my beloved skew. time for a hone. :C )
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13. A really good sand, using 320 grit, don't have to use less (rougher) as the finish off the tool is pretty good. Apply finish.
This is organ-oil mixed with walnut stain. just to take out some of the variance in the colour between the pieces.
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14. Finished. Needs the weight glued in and felt on the base. I'll do this once all the pieces are complete... about this time next year!
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I've completed 5 pawns thus far and I think that i'm going to have to turn about 3 sets worth to find some that look the same! Similar is easy, same... well not yet.
The first one took about 90 minutes, number 4 took 55 minutes. Yes i timed it.
Figuring about 1 hour per piece, plus knight and other carving time... 60+ hours I figure, then the board to match.


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I'll update this thread as I make some progress on each of the pieces. perhaps not in such detail, unless you guys would like me to, then I'm happy to oblige. :-)

Happy turning.

Steve

PS. Here is our current set next to my new pawn.

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[V2rocketeer]

Gee that looks great!

[Gabriel]

Awesome project! !!

I don't know about anyone else, but the amount of detail is great for me as it explains the processes to undertake in order to obtain consistent results and gIves me those precious tips which a lot of turners gloss over as it becomes second nature.

Thanks a bunch and I'm watching this one with keen interest.

Any thoughts on the 'white' timber you would like to use or is it just a 'what comes along' scenario?

Cheers
Gab

[Lumber Bunker]

Awesome project! !!

Any thoughts on the 'white' timber you would like to use or is it just a 'what comes along' scenario?



I has some 38mm Celery Top Pine here but it will not cut the mustard.
I would like to get some Silver Ash but it's been a while since I've seen 50mm stock. Does anyone have a source? Or other suggestion, I've never turned proper box wood and it's too $$$

Glad you guys are enjoying it, as am I.

[Ari2]

Great work, and as V2 says, about the explanation regarding detail on process...very useful for occasional turners such as myself.

I am very interested in seeing how you deal with the complexities of turning and carving the knight.

Well done!

[V2rocketeer]

I am very interested in seeing how you deal with the complexities of turning and carving the knight.

Well done!


I'm with Ari on the Knight. Keep us posted

[TrickinWood]

Awesome project, and as a new turner, I will watch with much interest.

As to a light source, I use 2 x Phillips 14 Lumens LED Day Bright Globes. They are very bright White light, and cast very little shadow at all.

[ian]

I has some 38mm Celery Top Pine here but it will not cut the mustard.
I would like to get some Silver Ash but it's been a while since I've seen 50mm stock. Does anyone have a source? Or other suggestion, I've never turned proper box wood and it's too $$$Rock maple is usually very pale yellow

[smiife]

Hi steve,
Looks good, you have more patience than me!
what about jacaranda , turns easy and finishes nice too!:2tsup:

[Lumber Bunker]

Hi steve,
Looks good, you have more patience than me!
what about jacaranda , turns easy and finishes nice too!:2tsup:

yep, that's a good, option.

I've a few trees in my garden, if a dock a few large limbs, it will most likely be dry by the time i get to the white pieces! hahahaha

[Colin62]

I admire you for tackling a project like this. I love chess, and chess sets, but I'm terrified that I'd end up making twenty or thirty pawns before I had eight that were even remotely close.

[ian]

I admire you for tackling a project like this. I love chess, and chess sets, but I'm terrified that I'd end up making twenty or thirty pawns before I had eight that were even remotely close.
don't be terrified -- just go out to your lathe and practice.
mount a thick blank and practice turning a series of beads on the blank concentrating on repeating the same shape/ profile/ dimensions.
clean the blank off and do another set -- you will quickly build up the muscle memory needed to achieve consistency.

Note that by the 4th pawn Steve had cut the time required by 35%
My prediction is that with more practice, Steve will get the time per pawn down to less than 30mins

[ironik]

Loving the detail in the descriptions and lots of photos. Great work! Look forward to seeing how that knight turns out.

[Sawdust Maker]

Big project
And a great start

watching with interest

[Gabriel]

Just noticed in our local carbatec they have bucket loads of Silvertop ash 50mm sq in lengths of about 900mm for about 15 bucks. May be worth contacting your local one (or a phone call to their office) if you are struggling to hunt some down. ..

Cheers

Gab

[Lumber Bunker]

Seven pawns down... Will finish number eight tonight, definitely going to need to turn a few extras.
They are all close to each other, but high standards are going to drive me nuts!

pics tonight.
:p

[ian]

so how long did it take to make the 7th pawn

[Lumber Bunker]

Number 6 only took 45minutes. But!
I'm not happy and will need to turn a ninth!
So number 7 took longer about an hour, but very happy.

Big trade off at the moment between accuracy and time.

[ian]

Number 6 only took 45minutes. But!
I'm not happy and will need to turn a ninth!
So number 7 took longer about an hour, but very happy.

Big trade off at the moment between accuracy and time.


My prediction is that with more practice, Steve will get the time per pawn down to less than 30mins

you still have to do the whites, so maybe a little early to adjust my prediction ? :q

[Lumber Bunker]

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Aha!
and then there was eight. (pardon the dust, and half finished finished)
:-
not happy. going for nine, maybe ten yet!

This morning i filmed number nine. I'm uploading the videos to youtube, it's taking a while so post the links once they are done.

[Lumber Bunker]

Videos are up...
maybe i should have edited, them... :doh:
They're a little long but i didn't edit noting out, so you get the whole (boring) experience.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G87bDE31a0M?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/r1VpVMj-3TM?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UKoPkGSUQCA?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FgyeYgNfGOI?rel=0&amp;showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Hardenfast]

Nice to see you back, Steve. Still on the Coast?

Daunting project there, my friend, but one that will no doubt give great satisfaction once completed. Interested to see how you turn those knights on the lathe. Looks like you've lost a little weight, by the way. Maybe more than a little. Don't know whether you'd qualify for the heavyweights any more.

By the way again, nice job with the videos. Reminds me a little of the Wranglerstar guy on YouTube.

Wayne

[Lumber Bunker]

Thanks Wayne, yep a little weight's gone from when we had the shop. Good days.
I'm enjoying the process, and I'm going to stop in at Trend on the way up to the coast tomorrow to see if they have anything suitable for the white pieces at the right price of course.

Is Peter Day still running specialty timbers at Toronto? Opening hours still the same...

[Lumber Bunker]

Called in to Trend Timbers this afternoon and snapped up a piece of Rock Maple for the white pieces.
Looks good :-)
Will start them this week :-)

[Simplicity]

Just found this
Nice work love playing chess
I'm just going to sit and wait for your next move

[Lumber Bunker]

Ok, just finished the finish.
after using the oil and stain to even out the colour, and having given them a day or two to dry.
I decided to use shellawax to coat them.
Sure glad I did.
love the finish now.

[Enfield Guy]

Look pretty much the same to me. Good work.

[Lumber Bunker]

Started roughing down the Rock Maple. It's the first time i've used it in small project and talk about hard. It's smashed the edge on my rouging gouge. very dense after turning the walnut.
I'm on track to get through the white pawns this week still. I won't bore you with the same pics of the pawns but in white, but, will show the progress once they are complete.

[Pratty]

Mate,
thoroughly enjoyed watching that set of videos, excellant work, i actually learnt a couple of tricks so cheers for that.
keep them coming please, thanks.


Videos are up...
maybe i should have edited, them... :doh:
They're a little long but i didn't edit noting out, so you get the whole (boring) experience.

<IFRAME height=315 src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G87bDE31a0M?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen=""></IFRAME>

<IFRAME height=315 src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/r1VpVMj-3TM?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

<IFRAME height=315 src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UKoPkGSUQCA?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

<IFRAME height=315 src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FgyeYgNfGOI?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

[Pratty]

they look wicked with the polish on, :-)

[Lumber Bunker]

First white pawn down.
gee this rock maple it's tough!

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[Christos]

One of our members at the wood turning club once said if anyone ask you to make a chess set for them tell them no. You have to make 64 pieces!

I will say this as each piece is made you are one piece closer to the end result.

[Mobyturns]

Thanks Wayne, yep a little weight's gone from when we had the shop. Good days.
I'm enjoying the process, and I'm going to stop in at Trend on the way up to the coast tomorrow to see if they have anything suitable for the white pieces at the right price of course.

Is Peter Day still running specialty timbers at Toronto? Opening hours still the same...

Try some QLD silver ash Flindersia bourjotiana

[Lumber Bunker]

Alright, so I wasn't happy with my first white pawn, I'm loving the finish and the look of the rock maple. But if you don't have good technique it'll make you pay!
What I mean is, the detail is so fine, that I don't feel comfortable dropping down the sandpaper grades to below 180 to get rid of tool marks, as I fear changing the shape...

also my strategy of turning most of the pawn and then reversing the piece in the chuck to do the ball isn't the best as it results is a slightly off center ball. see picture.

so I've changed when I reverse the piece in the chuck and I'm much happier. I drill the base out and undercut it. Then reverse it straight away, before any shaping. The result is a centered ball. :-)

[Lumber Bunker]

One of our members at the wood turning club once said if anyone ask you to make a chess set for them tell them no. You have to make 64 pieces.

I will say this as each piece is made you are one piece closer to the end result.

Hahahahaha, that's funny. Had to check my maths but, by the time I turn two of each piece, than I will most likely have turned 64!

[splinterz25]

Very Cool project I was thinking of making one of these as well and of course making the board as well.
Keep up the great work; I'll keep looking in to see how you manage the Knights, King & Queen.

Bruce

[Lumber Bunker]

Well, sorry for the delay.
But i finally finished the pawns!
the 18th Pawn took only 40 minutes and was better then the others which averaged around the 55 minute mark.
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Rooks next. :-)

[Lumber Bunker]

Rook.

Oh boy, this rook whilst easy enough, required about an hour and bit to turn and about the same in preparation.
To give you an idea of what I did in preparation:

Quick tidy up of work area - Clean work space is an accurate work place
transferred the diagram to card
transferred the diameters to card
taped all my calipers with new dimensions and arranged such
cut some blanks for the rooks
mounted first and thought through process.
ground a fresh edge on all tools required.

All before a single chip flew.
The same was done for the pawns, but i don't mind putting an hour or so into prep when you have 18 hours of work ahead of you, but there are only 4 rooks so the prep time to work time is really skewed, but i'll be ready next time i need to turn the very same rook. (never)

I got through one tonight (picture below) and will try for the rest over the next week.

I will stop for pictures on the next one and perhaps film another if anyone is interested?

Steve

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[Lumber Bunker]

Photos where too hard.
Video to long.
Time lapse!
Perhaps to fast, I set it at 2 photos per minute, perhaps 10 or so will give a less jumpy version


https://youtu.be/xzUocEkoIV4

[Lumber Bunker]

This one is a little better.
one white rook to go.


https://youtu.be/GlmGpY4jEfQ

[Lumber Bunker]

The army is starting to fill out.
Rooks complete.

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[Ari2]

Looking good!:)

[Lumber Bunker]

OK,
Here is the Bishop! getting a little bit of a roll on the last few nights.
trying to get the last Bishop out tonight... but its getting late so maybe tomorrow.

here is picture and another time lapse.
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https://youtu.be/EK-XFhZsgIU

[Lumber Bunker]

QUEEN!

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It's starting to get a little bit exciting
I'll shoot some photos of the white Queen for the record and I'll be doing 2 of each so it may take a while.

Dreading the knight, but I can do it! (maybe if I say it out loud enough i'll believe it...)

[Hardenfast]

Quite enjoying this thread, Steve. Most informative and detailed - even your thought processes and preparations included. Getting pretty good with the videos, too. And leaving the best until last, right?

Wayne

[Keith_1]

Beautiful Work

Regards

Keith

[Lumber Bunker]

Hi all,


Here is the next installment for you.
The pictorial version of the Queen for my Staunton inspired Chess Set.


<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.The Blank, mounted backwards, so I may bore a mortise for my screw chuck and the weight that will give the chess pieces ballast.
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Preparing the blank, squaring the end with theparting tool. Under cutting to ensure that piece sits flat and plumb. Base isleft with tool marks for gluing of felt. (yet to source any ideas?)
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->3.Using the Jacob’s Chuck to drill a pilot-hole for the screw to hold the blank on the screw chuck. And counter boring with a 13mm bit to accommodate steel bar that will be used as a weight. The bar will be<12mm to allow for possible shrinkage of the timber in the future.

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Reversing the Blank onto the screw chuck.
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->5.<!--[endif]-->Owing to the “home made” nature of the screw chuck and remounting the blank it needs to be trued again, <1mm though, it’s no biggie but it is a little annoying.
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->6.<!--[endif]-->I use the parting tool in one hand and the calipers in the other to quickly size the correct diameter for the base (and all others for that matter)
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->7.Then I begin, marking significant features, “V”cuts, tops of beads, coves etc.
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->8.Needed to stop and re grind the skew, as it’s the best tool for this job, thus, it gets the most work.
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Now for the trickier bit, the crown.
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I have marked my lathe's spindle and head end with a permanent marker in 8 locations that arepretty close to equal, this is the easiest “Indexing” for simple divisions like½ ¼ 8th’s that I’ve come across. Just have to use the tool rest as asteady for marking the locations.
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Using a triangular file to start the coves for the crown is the easiest way, I the widen them with a chainsaw file and finally a rat-tail rasp that’s so old it’s like a dull file, and I widen the coves just like filling saw teeth, until they reach a peak.
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Some sanding, some stain and Ubeaut Shellawax.
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Pretty close, sanding on the second queen was a little over zealous so i lots some detail on the crown.

Done.
Kings next.

[QuarkVI]

Thanks for all the pictorials.

re felt - Spotlight or similar sewing shop should have quite a variety - though it is a bit harder to get the thinner tighter grain stuff. Another option would be to get hold of flocking powder (google will turn up a number of sources) - which is also useful for the insides of jewellery boxes.

[pictureman]

You could try one of the billiard table companies they will have offcuts you may get cheap, much better quality.:)

[Lumber Bunker]

Yes, that's an idea. Thanks pictureman.
heavy weight cloth sounds like just the ticket... Do you reckon that they will sell it in 50mm squares? hahahaha!
Thanks Quark6, Spotlight will be a good back up,

oh, I just had an idea, what do you all think about fine suede? as in the real leather stuff. I've spent so long on these bad boys that they deserve a little more than flocking powder.

[smiife]

Hi steven,
Wow,,,,, you are doing a great job on the chessmen....
I was just reading this month, s woodturning mag
and a guy has turned a chess set, he sandwiched
leather pieces between 2 off cuts of timber and
"turned " several pieces of leather at once to the
correct size, thought you might find it of interest:;

[jcge]

Lumber Bunker - great work and tutorial.
smiife - sandwich turning leather between timber offcuts between centers...that's a great trick !!
Thanks for posting that.
John

[Lumber Bunker]

Yes, i like the idea of turning the leather squished between some blocks.

OK I have a problem, help!

I need an order of operation, cause it's not working...

So i turned my king. (no trouble there, it basically a giant pawn ;-)
They it came time to turn the finial, it's tiny!
and whilst I did OK to start with... Well, see pictures, it sucked.

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How would you guys handle this one?

Steve

[dai sensei]

How are you turning them? Finials must be cut, not scraped, and very carefully so the grain and piece are supported

[Lumber Bunker]

Neil,
started with blank held in chuck and supported with live center
turnned tapered tenon
V cuts with skew to establish beads
V cuts for wings
all good till this point... Still in the round
cut it off, with skew ( I think this was the begining of my down fall)
Held the tiny piece in my giant fist and used my block plane, to reduce each side to flat. All was going well but it got very fragile and blew out...

haven't managed to find a similar operation performed on YouTube or the like just yet either.

[Christos]

I see that you got pass the turning stage.

How about using sand paper to flatted the crown. Does the crown need to be flat, why not leave it round.

[Lumber Bunker]

Been thinking... (Yes it can hurt sometimes).

What about I start with a C.12mm (finished width 12mm) square stock. Like a pen blank.
Turn one end down, so it may be mounted in my Jacob's Chuck.
Whilst still square, cut a section out like I was making a cross halving joint, on both sides to finished thickness.
Support with live center and turn...

Will try tonight?

[Lumber Bunker]

Sand paper was interesting, but a combination of too rough, or too slow, (my problem not the sandpaper's) pushed me to use the block plane, which was going well until.

[Lumber Bunker]

Second Attempt at the King's Finial... Rubbish, but getting closer.

Third attempt i cheated!
Here is the third attempt.

Doesn't look any good but It'll be one of the options... to poke someone in the eye! Chess can get pretty heated in our house.

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Slight German solider look to it... It's growing on me.

[Christos]

I am not sure on this option, seems a little plain.

How about something similar to what you did with the queen and then the point on that?

[Christos]

... to poke someone in the eye! Chess can get pretty heated in our house.......


Just cannot help myself


Player 1; "What happened to my prawn?" "I had one next to the Queen."
Player 2; "Not sure what you are referring to, there was nothing next to your Queen."
After a short pause.
Player 2; "By the way you are in check." "Must have missed it because I think you were in check for quite some time."
Player 2; "As it is my turn Check Mate."

:ohyaaa:

[Lumber Bunker]

That would end in a jiu-jitsu match for sure. sans the chess pieces.

[Lumber Bunker]

Ok... some small development.

regarding the Kings Finial.
I've not given up reproducing the original, yet. But in the mean time I've knocked up these two options.
A soldiers helmet spike and a basic cross.
Shown next the a queen for perspective.

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I think i will turn both in walnut too and owing to the fact that they are friction fit, are interchangeable so players may choose their preferred King.

Any input on the cross, in regards to the overall look?

Steve

[ian]

Hi Steve

I'm really enjoying following your progress.

For the King's finial, could you start with a rectangular blank, say 10mm x 5mm, and shape the crown before turning the round bits?

[Lumber Bunker]

Ian, yeah I guess i could, but I've been trying a few different things and have nailled down a process that is working for me ATM.

1. Hold 25mm square blank in chuck, support with live center
2. Turn a small section at live center end to 12mm diameter
3. Establish heights of bead, diameter of vertical section and taper of the tennon
4. Turn profile excluding tiny bead at top 3mm diameter.
5. Arrange my expensive indexing system to match grain direction
6. File flats on both sides being careful not to mar the bead
7. Sand
8. Turn tiny bead on top and cut off with skew
9. Finish

Too many options to explore... or I'm procrastinating as I do not know where to start on the knights!

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[Ari2]

Great work, I think I prefer the cross over the finial. Of the two crosses I am leaning toward the first one you posted. I really like the contrast between the cross and the body of the king in the second pic in the previous post:2tsup:
Still looking forward to seeing how you tackle the knights:)

[Christos]

I prefer the cross over the point and the first cross. Looks more solid.

[jcge]

To my eye the cross looks far nicer than the finial (which looks Germanic) edit...like a pickelhaube.
John

[Lumber Bunker]

Yep i agree. sometimes simple is much nicer. and it's easier too! :)

[Lumber Bunker]

Scanned my "templates" thought you guys might like to see how i do it?

Finalised a finial today for the kings. going with the basic frugal cross. It's the nicest for sure.

And started the knight! gee I've been putting this off!
photo below. :-)

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[Lumber Bunker]

Here are the Kings, finished. and all the others minus the knights...

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[pommyphil]

Horses heads. Have I seen them turn a head profile ring from endgrain then split them off radialy ? So you get 50 heads per ring, enough to master the finish carving. Phil

[smiife]

Horses heads. Have I seen them turn a head profile ring from endgrain then split them off radialy ? So you get 50 heads per ring, enough to master the finish carving. Phil

Hi phil,
Yeah I have read something similar,,, petty neat trick:2tsup:

[Lumber Bunker]

Update...

It's official, I stink at carving. So i haven't been successful at all!
So i'm going o try the bandsaw technique next with an altered design. simpler :-(

Anyway, here are some update pictures of the rest of the process.

Visiting my father during the xmas holiday he organised some lead shot for me to use as weight, I had previously thought of using a section of steel, but reading some reviews on some other "weighted" pieces, some complained about splitting, which i quickly identified as a wood movement issue with a non-flexible centre. So i thought that the lead shot would be a great way to add the weight and allow movement, in the future.

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Lead shot.

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Mixed with no more gaps, they should stay flexible for years.
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a few at a time, as the starts to go off quickly, and filling the holes neatly was a little time consuming
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Drying
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I pick up a kangaroo hide on ebay from a guy in QLD. Previously i was talking about felt, etc. which where great and common place but i've spent way to long on these little suckers already. So I up'd the ante, and pulled the tiger on the roo leather.
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At the same time i needed a way to cut consistent circles, of different sizes, a qick search on ebay and i got this great circle cutter on ebay from Hong Kong, (free freight for about $10, bargin, It's great and allows circles, from 19mm to 100+mm
It does a great job and the wife and kids can use it for craft too!
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Glued the bases on.
Very happy with the finished pieces. They are very luxurious!

Might get around the knights before Christmas next year!
Procrastinating owing to my lack of confidence with carving. The Bandsaw method will go better i know... I hope.

Happy Easter

Steve

[Scally]

Great to hear from you again Steve.

I love the leather circle cutter. Much neater than a pair of scissors.

You must be pretty handy with a small skew after all that turning. Your pieces look great.

I have done a bit of carving but a small piece like you knight with fine detail would be a big challenge for me. I tried to carve a lion's head on end grain Oak once but it wasn't pretty.
You could ask Underfoot in the carving Forum. He is a fantastic carver. I think he is even bigger than you so he will understand the challenge of big mits holding small pieces of timber.

Last week I was driving through Gosford and saw your old shop and wondered what you were up to. Cowra is a good area, I am sure you enjoy living there.

Good luck with the Knight.

[Christos]

Ah the procrastination of thought. Just a little spin on words. :U

We all do that at one time or another. From what you have accomplished so far really has been amazing as this is not a small task to make all those pieces and with added doubles to get them looking similar to each other. It would be interested to know how many extra pieces you have made just to get a full chess on the board.

[Bushmiller]

Steve

Love your progress on this set and fully understand the apprehension with the knights.

With the lead ballast, had you considered filling the hole with melted lead? If the hole is belled out it would automatically stay put without glue and I think you would be able to actually get more lead in. Lead has a very low melting point so would not affect the finish on the pieces.

Probably a late suggestion now.

Regards
Paul

[Lumber Bunker]

The melting of the lead did cross my mind, It would have been a great excuse to get a torch, but it was a step too far for this project. Perhaps the next one? OMG!