Paul39
26th October 2015, 12:53 PM
My used Hegner did not come with a hand wheel. The outboard thread is the same as the inboard, and I had bought 5 metric nuts to make accessories some time ago.
I threaded the nut on the inboard side and tried to remove enough steel for the nut to fit inside the recess on the outboard side so it could be grabbed by the set screw.
I ran the lathe at the slowest speed, 800 RPM, and used a file steadied on the tool rest to remove the corners of the hex. This was a high strength nut, so I settled for a bevel.
I had an offcut piece of 60 mm timber. I made a spigot in the outside part and reversed it in the chuck and cut a hole the size of the outside circle of the hex nut, leaving a little spigot to come up inside the nut. I cut back away from the nut to the rim to give me a little room between the hand wheel and the lathe.
I prepared the nut by scratching it on the sides and bottom with 80 grit sandpaper.
I mixed some two part epoxy and put it in the recess at the bottom of the hole in the hand wheel and put the nut in and twisted it back and forth to get everything coated. I put a weight on it and let it set overnight.
Several days later I made up more epoxy and dribbled that down in the spaces between the flats of the nut and the round hole in the wheel. I then packed that with shavings and dust and repeated until it was packed over full.
I let that set overnight and mounted the wheel on the lathe, trued it up, made a little dip where the spigot was on the outside, sanded, hand sanded the flats, and applied Tung oil while running on the lathe.
The bevel jams nicely on the outboard side of the lathe and stays on. I can get it off by putting a rod in the hole in the spindle and giving it a sharp whack while holding the hand wheel.
The hand wheel is 127mm, 5 inches in diameter. It is quite convenient for turning a bowl while applying wipe on finish, and inspecting a turning.
I threaded the nut on the inboard side and tried to remove enough steel for the nut to fit inside the recess on the outboard side so it could be grabbed by the set screw.
I ran the lathe at the slowest speed, 800 RPM, and used a file steadied on the tool rest to remove the corners of the hex. This was a high strength nut, so I settled for a bevel.
I had an offcut piece of 60 mm timber. I made a spigot in the outside part and reversed it in the chuck and cut a hole the size of the outside circle of the hex nut, leaving a little spigot to come up inside the nut. I cut back away from the nut to the rim to give me a little room between the hand wheel and the lathe.
I prepared the nut by scratching it on the sides and bottom with 80 grit sandpaper.
I mixed some two part epoxy and put it in the recess at the bottom of the hole in the hand wheel and put the nut in and twisted it back and forth to get everything coated. I put a weight on it and let it set overnight.
Several days later I made up more epoxy and dribbled that down in the spaces between the flats of the nut and the round hole in the wheel. I then packed that with shavings and dust and repeated until it was packed over full.
I let that set overnight and mounted the wheel on the lathe, trued it up, made a little dip where the spigot was on the outside, sanded, hand sanded the flats, and applied Tung oil while running on the lathe.
The bevel jams nicely on the outboard side of the lathe and stays on. I can get it off by putting a rod in the hole in the spindle and giving it a sharp whack while holding the hand wheel.
The hand wheel is 127mm, 5 inches in diameter. It is quite convenient for turning a bowl while applying wipe on finish, and inspecting a turning.