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XLaw87
8th August 2016, 02:27 PM
Hi All,

Xavier here from Brunswick in Melbourne, I'm an ex chippy and a professional-amateur woodworker, in fact I'm a professional-amateur at just about everything! I've read a lot of thee threads but have finally signed up to join in the fun and hopefully soak up some knowledge from a few of the gaffers.

After having just finished my own house build I've recovered enough to start getting my workshop sorted and accruing a few tools, Ive had a renewed love of hand tools, planes, chisels saws, you name it and I also recently bought a lathe.

I was able to snap up an Avon-Tyme with 11 tools mainly sorby - Roughing gouge, 3 spindle gouges, 2 skew chisels, 3 scrapers, 1 parting tool and one incredibly long, quite thin, maybe 9-10mm D, spindle gouge esque tool, that has the tip of what looks like a drill bit cut off perpendicular to the tools length. I will add a photo of this later as im not sure what it is, perhaps a drilling/coring tool? ( I just found on the spares catalogue page a long hollow tailstock long hole boring kit picture, Im guessing this is what it is.) Plus an industrial vacuum all for $600.

Ive always wanted to try my hand at turning, especially bowls, deep pots, etc and cant wait to get started. So a few of my questions if anyone feels like helping a rookie out:

1. I found a Tyme Avon on ebay and was just wondering if anyone is currently using one and has any tips or a manual? I have found a few things online, a brochure and parts catalogue but no manual, though it doesnt look to hard to put the pieces together.

2. If so are there any hints on maintenance etc, the bearings seem to be okay, no obvious bad noises etc but do i need to clean out and grease anything, oil anything before i start serious usage?

3. I'm very interested in using the lathe for some big stump turning. As in a redgum blank 450 - 600mm tall, and as wide as your average stump for stools, maybe 400 - 500mm wide. I know this would be incredibly heavy, not to mention too big for the swing over bed (275), but i can rotate the head stock, and i could utilise another cast iron axle i have to create a tailstock whihc would give me 500mm. Obviously i would need to make this incredibly solid, what i havent been able to find out yet however is - How much weight is too much weight for your lathe? And how do you find out or judge this? Is there a rule of thumb?

4. I have read stories of people bending their spindle so i would be keen to avoid this. Is this the domain of big, heavy thousand dollar lathes only?

5. I have a heap of seasoned Oregon beams which are nice and long but I'm thinking too soft for a long lasting table, is this a decent timber to start practicing on?

Im sure I will have more questions later but thats it for now, any help is much appreciated, I think my next purchase will be some turning classes.

Woodturnerjosh
8th August 2016, 09:06 PM
From the pictures I've seen, I would say your lathe would be a bit underpowered and too lite for that sort of task... have fun learning how to turn first and if you get hooked you'll be wanting to upgrade to a bigger lathe capable of that sort of project in no time!

Josh

Jeff Leslie
8th August 2016, 09:45 PM
Xavier, quite of few of us on the board have read your kind of post and say ?

I've got to be honest, I've never heard of the lathe that you have acquired. More importantly, I have no idea about which Sorby chisels you have acquired (some Chinese v. say Hamlet, P & N, etc) or how you intend to sharpen them. And where are you getting your wood from?

There are stacks on pro-made DVDs out there - start with Jimmy Clewes and Cindy Drozda - and plenty of stuff on Youtube to get you started. (But be careful!) Even some of the videos on this site are a great beginning.

You say that you want to turn bowls - but you do not appear to own a bowl gouge. And forget oregon for bowl practicing. You are blessed with some of the best blanks here in Oz, so why go for the bottom of the wood pile? And you should know that hollowing a vessel is quite different to the wood grain in the opposite direction ie a bowl blank.

Learn:

- tool work (most of it, after correct instruction) learnt by practice
- sharpening (essential and the range starts low and goes very high)
- all you can about the wood itself

How you do all that will test you. The likes of Vic Wood (the master of woodturning in Australia) have retired. And the best wood turner in a Club or Men's Shed are no guarantee. I, no doubt, have been spoiled with lessons from Jim in Qld, Guilio in Victoria, Vic Wood (under sufferance and a few beers) and of course master turner Ken Wraight.

If you don't know who Powderpost is on this site - and all the other names mentioned previously - I suggest you need to do some homework, preferably before you post a list of 200 questions. Look no further than the winners of the Australian Woodturning Exhibition.

You are "very interested in using the lathe for some big stump turning". (I would ask the question, as a part-time furniture maker, why?) Now get on your bike and do an internet search on lathes CAPABLE on doing what you want.

I do not own a VB36 (the ultimate bowl lathe) but do have an old long-bed Vicmarc VL300 and an S750 Stubby. That doesn't make me a good woodturner. Only friends can do that. And some no longer friends.

I have been to Turnfest for many years (Google it) and have two mid-class turners in our local Club that are prepared to learn. In the last 2 years, we have had Vic Wood, Ken Wraight and Guilio Marcolongo demonstrate at our small club. Result? Better woodturners. You can't guarantee the same from the local Men's Shed or Club.

Please post pics of your lathe and tools - with descriptions - and I will try to set you on the right path. No doubt, others more expert than me will chip in (hopefully). All we are asking is that you are aware of Richard Raffan and his reputation before you post. One of the best teachers you could have got - Neil Scobie - passed away this year long before his time. So you know have to read through the local magazines. I am biased and could tell you where to start but few want the work.

There are very, very few pro woodturners out there and one of the best - Vic Wood - retired a few years back. So your next option is the Down Under Turnaround and the event at Wagga Wagga. I assure you, at those events you will get the very very best of instruction. After that, it's up to you.

I spent the afternoon with a junior club member turning an undercut bowl out of redgum. First problem, in too much of a hurry. Lesson: get the best finish off the tool that you can. Second problem, barely sharp tools. Lesson: find an affordable system with jigs so you can replicate the angles. (she had a Tormek that she needs to learn how to use. ) Third problem, sanding too fast. Wood does not like heat.

I would offer you some lessons, but there are many, many, many better TEACHERS and TURNERS out there. How far does your wallet spread? A trip to Qld over our cold winter to see Powderpost would be a great start. (Don't let him get the glue out though!)

I suggest you start at the top and work your way down, depending on availability and price. It's almost guaranteed, you won't get the best. But do your best.

regards Jeff

Pat
8th August 2016, 09:54 PM
Xavier, your lathe looks ok for basic spindle work and small bowls. Clear Pine is the best to start with. 90*45 DAR ripped down the middle, makes great practice blanks. 300mm lengths give you room to make dibbers and other items. Oregon is a splintery, painfully educational wood to turn. Very difficult to get a good finish, with the differences between the summer and winter growth rings.

As for the stump turning, I concur with Josh. A VL300 would be able to handle the job, but run at $6000.

So learn on Pine, trade up as your abilities improve and tame the wretched Skew :D

chucky
8th August 2016, 09:55 PM
Hi Xavier, You are 100% correct (I think my next purchase will be some turning classes.) the best advise I can give you is join a Woodturning Club where you can be taught & learn about all aspects of turning, tools and equipment. You mention that you are interested in some big stump turning etc., The lathe you purchased has not been designed to handle such big items as you mentioned where as larger Vicmarc's or Stubby's will be able to handle such a task. As I mentioned join a club where you can talk to other members about what you want to do.Remember their is more to Woodturning than putting a piece of wood on a lathe. The nearest Club to you is Northern Woodturners Inc Browning Street Kingsbury

Rod Gilbert
9th August 2016, 08:41 AM
+1 Join a local wood turning group, the experience and access to bigger and varied machines is also a valuable asset available in most clubs/groups.
Regards Rod.

XLaw87
9th August 2016, 10:09 AM
Whoa Thanks for the feed back guys!

I not surprised to see that Im trying to bite off more than i can chew to begin with. I remember when i was a first week apprentice wanting to know how cut a stick roof before i even knew how to use a circular saw. Professional amateur indeed!

@Chucky - Thanks for the tip on the Northern Woodturners Club, have already contacted them and will check them out tonight! Very excited!

@ Jeff - Thanks for all of the advice and tips. You post was huge but i will try to answer a few of the questions you asked:

The lathe is Tyme (Brand) Avon (Model), you can see it here (http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/althea/tymelathes.htm), It is a 3/4 hp motor, 4 speed, and the bed i have is 1220mm long.

The Chisels are Robert Sorby Kangaroo Brand with Sheffield England stamped onto the blades, not sure if this means they were actually made there or not, I will do some more research later. Some Photos below. All of them are quite rusty, I might electrolysis bath them but with some use i think most of it will wear off.
390070 390071 390072 390073 390074390075

So im not very good with inches but they are:
24mm roughing gouge, 13mm Spindle Gouge, 10mm Spindle, 6mm Spindle, 18mm Skew, 25mm Skew, 13 b 6mm Parting, 18mm inboard bowl scraper, 10mm inboard bowl scraper, 12mm Square nose scraper... i think. Whoever had this also beveled the left hand face of the chisel to be able to utilise that face as a scraper as well.

Yes, unfortunately no bowl scrapers in there, after doing some reading i think i may buy a P&N 10 or 12mm and 16mm bowl gouge, unhandled(turn my own!). They seem to have a fairly good write up from different people.

RE Sharpening, I have a 2800rpm bench grinder with an 8" aluminium oxide wheel that i use for my other chisels and plane irons. I havent given the gouges a hit yet but i did hone up the skew chisels just on my diamond plate as they didnt seem too out of shape, that is roughly 220 extra course, 600 fine and 1200 extra fine diamond plates. Sharp enough to slice hardwood off some scrap. I have researched a few jigs but also like Richard Raffan's (yes i definitely know about him and his books are in my shopping cart waiting for some funds) freehand style. I dont use jigs on any of my cabinet chisels, preferring the Paul Sellers freehand technique for its speed, so I think ill start with that, then if i suck, invest in a jig.

As for wood some came with the purchase, some Brazilian maple, huon pine, QLD rosewood blanks and more, though im not going to touch this better stuff until i have some skill. I have heaps of Oregon left over from a demo i did but now that you have all warned against it i will leave that for shelving etc. I see DAR is good for practice and I will get some more info off the guys at the club.

RE turning big stumps, im interested in making big stools like this: 390076
Pretty minimalist but that's the style i really like. Obviously not an exact copy of this however.

So in finishing, thanks again everyone, Its awesome that there is a club so close to me. If you dont know where to look these places can be really hard to find so Im very grateful for the advice.

Ill post again when i have something of value to add hopefully, or at least some pictures, of attempts, at beauty or at least utility.

Jeff Leslie
9th August 2016, 07:57 PM
Xavier,

I think most of us on the board gain something when someone new comes along and seeks advice. And perhaps gains from it.

Just a couple of points: you need (as noted by Chucky), a decent lathe to turn those minimalist stools. Yes, some will do it on some cheap crap Chinese lathe and good luck to them. What would you think if you could do it safely and with pleasure on a VL300 or a Stubby? What say you turn and sell the stools (rustic furniture) and repay the cost of a decent lathe in short time?

Next, you MUST work out your sharpening system. Forget freehand (ala Richard Raffan and many other pros or ex pros) and get something that includes jigs. Think repeatability.

You will get lots of advice about sharpening systems (ranging in price from a cheap free-hand stone or grinding system up to a Tormek). Just pick one and accept that all have deficiencies. ( I have two Tormeks plus a CBN wheel set up for the Tormek system on a high speed grinder so I am not without bias).

All I know is this: with few exceptions, all of my masters, peers, proteges and students rely on a jig system. Put simply, if your tools are not sharp, you will find little pleasure in turning with blunt tools.

I suggest you get on Youtube and view the alternatives.

If you have any trouble with the Tormek system, post and you will get the right answer. The Tormek system is not just for turners! If you want razor sharp bench chisels or plane blades, go no further.

regards Jeff