Make a tool handle

[powderpost]

In 2008 I did a tool handle W.I.P. Since then the photos have disappeared, so as promised I have done it again, not because I am a nice bloke, :;, I needed another one any way... :)

To start, bore an appropriate size hole in one end of a 35mm square blank, at least 350mm long. Here I have put the bit into the headstock and the driving spur into the tailstock. That will help prevent the timber turning while you bore the hole. I would recommend you slow the lathe down to do this.
395349

Fit the timber into the lathe loosely and put the tool rest up against the timber. That will help to hold the wood steady while the hole is bored. Bore at least 50mm deep.
395351

Put the driving spur back and revolving centre back into their right places, and fit the timber with the hole on the tailstock centre.
395352395353

Turn the wood to a cylinder to a size that suits.
395354

Mark off the length of the ferule. Here I am using a 19mm length of 19mm diameter hard drawn copper tube. Turn a spigot to a be slightly larger than the ferule so that it is a driving fit.
395355395356395357

Mark off an appropriate length to suit with a parting tool to leave about a 19 diameter. The average length of my "normal" spindle tools is about 280mm. Turn to the desired shape. My preference is a simple cigar shape.
395358395359395360

Sand smooth and apply a suitable finish. I like to keep it simple and apply candle wax. Burnish with a rag under pressure while the handle is still turning. To cut the stub off, I hold my left hand finger tips against the tool rest, cradle the spinning piece loosely in your hand. Cut off using the long point of the skew while turning. I have burned in some rings with a piece of wire. If you go down the track it is essential that you fit a appropriate handle to the piece of wire. Hopefully that will prevent the bloodless amputation of a finger. :oo:
395361

The finished job :cool:
395362

It is important to bore the hole first, preferably in the lathe, so the the tool doesn't look around corners.. :) Shape, decoration and finish are personal decisions, but keep in mind this is a functional article and will in time develop it's own patina.

Hope this is of some help.

Jim

[Hors]

In 2008 I did a tool handle W.I.P. Since then the photos have disappeared, so as promised I have done it again, not because I am a nice bloke, :;, I needed another one any way... :)

To start, bore an appropriate size hole in one end of a 35mm square blank, at least 350mm long. Here I have put the bit into the headstock and the driving spur into the tailstock. That will help prevent the timber turning while you bore the hole. I would recommend you slow the lathe down to do this.
395349

Fit the timber into the lathe loosely and put the tool rest up against the timber. That will help to hold the wood steady while the hole is bored. Bore at least 50mm deep.
395351

Put the driving spur back and revolving centre back into their right places, and fit the timber with the hole on the tailstock centre.
395352395353

Turn the wood to a cylinder to a size that suits.
395354

Mark off the length of the ferule. Here I am using a 19mm length of 19mm diameter hard drawn copper tube. Turn a spigot to a be slightly larger than the ferule so that it is a driving fit.
395355395356395357

Mark off an appropriate length to suit with a parting tool to leave about a 19 diameter. The average length of my "normal" spindle tools is about 280mm. Turn to the desired shape. My preference is a simple cigar shape.
395358395359395360

Sand smooth and apply a suitable finish. I like to keep it simple and apply candle wax. Burnish with a rag under pressure while the handle is still turning. To cut the stub off, I hold my left hand finger tips against the tool rest, cradle the spinning piece loosely in your hand. Cut off using the long point of the skew while turning. I have burned in some rings with a piece of wire. If you go down the track it is essential that you fit a appropriate handle to the piece of wire. Hopefully that will prevent the bloodless amputation of a finger. :oo:
395361

The finished job :cool:
395362

It is important to bore the hole first, preferably in the lathe, so the the tool doesn't look around corners.. :) Shape, decoration and finish are personal decisions, but keep in mind this is a functional article and will in time develop it's own patina.

Hope this is of some help.

Jim

Cracker of an artcle. Very much appreciate the time and effort you put in to it.

I reckon you are a pretty good bloke

Thnks

[Sawdust Maker]

Nice work Jim

Here's the recent examples I managed to do last week, which I probably did wrong as I didn't have your tutorial on hand to guide me :rolleyes:

395424

sorry I didn't realise I had to do a WIP :doh:

[pommyphil]

Pretty wood.395427 :) Phil.

[turnerted]

A good concise article Jim . It is interesting the number of variations there are on making a tool handle.
Ted

[artful bodger]

Fit the timber into the lathe loosely and put the tool rest up against the timber. That will help to hold the wood steady while the hole is bored. Bore at least 50mm deep.
395351

Put the driving spur back and revolving centre back into their right places, and fit the timber with the hole on the tailstock centre.
395352395353


Hope this is of some help.

Jim

Good article!
Have made heaps of my own tool handles over the years. Never thought of doing those 2 steps.

[Christos]

Very simple steps and straight to the point. I drill on the lathe but with the wood spinning. Will try your way as I think it might be easier and drop several steps to the way I do involving mortise and chuck.

[Mobyturns]

Another simple trick to make drilling the tool tang hole "safer" is to make up a vee block that mounts in the banjo tool post. The jig allows plenty of adjustment and the blank can be clamped to it ( ps well sort of as it has to be able to move with the tail stock - I think you get the drift though.) if you feel you require the additional security.

Ken Wraight also had an article in the "Australian Woodworker" (I think) where he mounted the blank in a similar fashion to Jim's method but he used a box affair mounted on the lathe bed to clamp the blank too. You could also use one of Vermec's camlock table.


Edit - clamping to the Vee block is not straight forward as the blank itself or the whole Vee block & blank has to be able to move towards the tailstock to be able to drill the hole.

[powderpost]

The "V" block as Geoff suggested is a good idea, both for safety and accuracy. This one has a 19mm shank and doesn't fit the lathe I used for the WIP. However, I do use it when I am making walking sticks mainly for accuracy and making sure the holes are coaxial.

Jim

395592

[Sawdust Maker]

I can see one of those in my future - To date I've been simply hand holding to stop the spin

thanks for sharing and showing

[bueller]

Awesome pictorial. Have a ton of tools that need new handles when I get my lathe up and turning in the next month or so.

[Dalboy]

Now that I have just come in from the shed (well about 1 1/2 hours ago) after making a tool handle as I had brought three tools from the woodturning club that I belong to, which one of them was not to my liking the other two are as manufactured but the first was home made.

The top one is the home made one the middle is the replacement and the third is a Robert sorby tool which I like the handles on.

395725

[Hors]

As there has been heaps of info past on, about the handle itself. Would be cool to get some feedback/info/comments on ferrules used/made

[chambezio]

I had some short offcut lengths of chrome towel rail. They were 20mm and 25mm and being chrome look pretty good. The wall is thin though so the drive in fit is a little tricky because its easy to split the ferrule at the welded joint if the timber is too fat. I usually cut both about 25mm long with the metal cut off saw then take to the linisher and sand/grind off the burr. The chrome won't burn if you do it quick.

[powderpost]

Almost any tubing will do the job. I use mostly hard drawn copper tube. Any friendly plumber may help out with short left over pieces. Another common source is the brass fittings used domestic installations. And as has beem mentioned chromed towel rail is ok, but is a bit thin.

Jim

[Mobyturns]

It the chrome rail is splitting at the welded joint, then I respectfully suggest that it is not a suitable choice for ferrule material. The ferrule is functional, not cosmetic. It is there to prevent the timber in the handle from splitting should the wood turning tool experience a shock load in a catch situation. Stainless tube might be a better choice, amazing what can be found in the refuse recycle shops.

[Sawdust Maker]

I've bought lengths of brass tube from the local metal merchants - fairly economical compared to the ferrule prices from some tool purveyors.
I also tend to hoard any tubing I see lying around, copper, steel etc.

[Dalboy]

Almost any tubing will do the job. I use mostly hard drawn copper tube. Any friendly plumber may help out with short left over pieces. Another common source is the brass fittings used domestic installations. And as has beem mentioned chromed towel rail is ok, but is a bit thin.

Jim

That is what I have used also a good source is the nuts from brass compression fitting and if you do not want the hexagonal then brass can be turned down on the lathe

[Vann]

...as has beem mentioned chromed towel rail is ok, but is a bit thin.I bought several commercial ferrules from Lee Valley a few years back. They were very thin - but at least had no welds.

Cheers, Vann.

[powderpost]

It the chrome rail is splitting at the welded joint, then I respectfully suggest that it is not a suitable choice for ferrule material.

Have to agree Geoff, the "towel" rail I have used was actually a brass tube, chrome plated. It was in fact a shower curtain rail, that had a slow 90 degrees bend in it. Will admit it was of senior vintage, bit like me????

Jim

[Fumbler]

Thanks, great idea, but had to re-engineer the plan due to 12mm square bar stainless. so hoping these turn out as expected.

[Fumbler]

On my up coming handles I am using 25mm straight copper connectors, cut in half so I get 2 per coupling, see link below.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-25mm-straight-copper-capillary-coupling_p4880014

[Mobyturns]

On my up coming handles I am using 25mm straight copper connectors, cut in half so I get 2 per coupling, see link below.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-25mm-straight-copper-capillary-coupling_p4880014

I've been using them for years, they make very good ferrules. You can get larger sizes suitable for tool handles for large spindle roughing gouges, scrapers and 5/8" or larger bowl gouges. Easy to hand turn with robust scrapers to neaten up the cut and to take a small arris off the corners.

[bueller]

I've been using them for years, they make very good ferrules. You can get larger sizes suitable for tool handles for large spindle roughing gouges, scrapers and 5/8" or larger bowl gouges. Easy to hand turn with robust scrapers to neaten up the cut and to take a small arris off the corners.
Excellent, I've been wondering the best way to tackle ferrules without ordering stuff online.

[Sawdust Maker]

Excellent, I've been wondering the best way to tackle ferrules without ordering stuff online.

Find a metal merchant and buy some tube. A local one here sold me a 300mm length. I got a couple of different diameters. Then simply cut to ferrule size with a hacksaw.

[dennisk]

i bought a Hunter tool, and decided to make some handles and holders for it. i had 1/2" square steel laying around and some lovely scraps of birdseye maple and walnut and thought i would try something different. i ran a dado onto the maple and glued a layer of black walnut onto that, then turned it in between centers using 2 cones in the dado. i used a 1" long piece of !" copper pipe for the ferrules. pretty sure there is one in Townsville if you want to see one live.397913397914

[Old Croc]

i bought a Hunter tool, and decided to make some handles and holders for it. pretty sure there is one in Townsville if you want to see one live.
dennsk, I dont want to hijack this thread, but I am looking at the Hunter hollowers at present, but I want the TC tipped version. Is that whats with someone in Townsville?
Rgds,
Crocy.

[dennisk]

dennsk, I dont want to hijack this thread, but I am looking at the Hunter hollowers at present, but I want the TC tipped version. Is that whats with someone in Townsville?
Rgds,
Crocy.
by TC i presume you mean carbide? only the handle is in Townsville, but that is what i have. i can send a pic if you would like. it really works and i just switch it from straight to 30 degree, to 60 degree, they really are agressive if the angle is not right, but work nicely with due care.

[Old Croc]

by TC i presume you mean carbide? only the handle is in Townsville, but that is what i have. i can send a pic if you would like. it really works and i just switch it from straight to 30 degree, to 60 degree, they really are agressive if the angle is not right, but work nicely with due care.
dennisk, not sure if we are talking about the same tool. The ones I have seen on the Hunter website are a fixed angle. I am tossing up between them or the Trent Bosch Tungsten Carbide tipped tools.
Rgds,
Crocy.

[Nanigai]

I have the handle he's talking about Crocy, PM sent.
Cheers, Ian

[dennisk]

Hi Crocy,here is a pic of the huntertool .its a #1 RH 3/16 x 3/16, number ht1316s. cuts like a bugger, i try to use it only when needed, i usually waste as much stuff i can with an oland tool that ive made myself, for hollowing, or i use a forstner to waste as much as i can.398070398070

[Old Croc]

I think I have worked out what you are saying dennis, do you mean you lay the cutter over to 30° or 60° to reduce the bite. The tools I am interested in are the swan neck ones to hollow out with and with the TC tipps I hope they will cit better than my current HSS.
Thanks,
Rgds,
Crocy

[powderpost]

dennsk, I dont want to hijack this thread, but

I hope you two gentlemen have found the discussion on tool handle manufacture and ferules interesting and instructive???

Jim

[Old Croc]

I hope you two gentlemen have found the discussion on tool handle manufacture and ferules interesting and instructive???

Jim
Yep, certainly have, especially the comments about the amount of leverage imparted on the neck and not undersizing the ferrule diameter. Thanks for all the contributions.
Rgds,
Crocy.

[Mobyturns]

Excellent, I've been wondering the best way to tackle ferrules without ordering stuff online.

A word of warning about commercially available "brass" ferrules - many of them are junk! I've seen plenty of split ferrules on tool handles from some well known English tool suppliers. When you examine the crack it is quite apparent to the naked eye that they have a very coarse granular structure in the material - they look pretty though. :rolleyes:

[Old Croc]

A word of warning about commercially available "brass" ferrules - many of them are junk! I've seen plenty of split ferrules on tool handles from some well known English tool suppliers. When you examine the crack it is quite apparent to the naked eye that they have a very coarse granular structure in the material - they look pretty though. :rolleyes:
Moby, I have had a few of them crack, so I swapped to copper tube, far more forgiving, and tonnes of it cheap at metal recyclers.
Rgds,
Crocy.

[powderpost]

I get short pieces of hard drawn copper tube from one of the local plumbers and cut into 19mm lengths.. Tese are then put into a chuck and turn a small taper on the inside of one end with an old skew.

Jim