Burl natural edge bowl (small)

[Fumbler]

Just starting a fill in project, a small natural edge bowl in coolabah burl. The wings might be a bit thick at the moment but aim to take them down a smidge. Am I on the right track?

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[Rod Gilbert]

Looking good so far.
Regards Rod.

[artme]

Looking good so far!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

[smiife]

Hi fumbler , looks ok to me too !
With a name like yours i would go very carefully when
doing the wings , if i were you :o:o.........
Have you hollowed the inside yet ?

[Fumbler]

Hi fumbler , looks ok to me too !
With a name like yours i would go very carefully when
doing the wings , if i were you :o:o.........
Have you hollowed the inside yet ?

Smiife, no not yet, I have cut the tenon for a small set of jaws and still need to sand a bit more. I faced the other side on the jointer first before putting on the screw chuck. I turned the shape to start with on wheel 1 of the pulleys and then moved up to number 2, I'm getting better results up there cut wise but it's hard to keep a straight line with all the clatter so steady as she goes or an egg cup I will hold.

[Christos]

One thing to keep in mind when doing wings is when they get to a certain thickness they will flex a little when turning on the lathe. Not exactly sure at what thickness that is as for me it had varied a little. I have not done a winged burl so not sure how that would behave.

One turner by the name of Jimmy Clewes that I have seen on youtube turn a natural edge vase with a wall thickness of 2mm. He basically did this in stages as he hollowed out the inside.

[Fumbler]

One thing to keep in mind when doing wings is when they get to a certain thickness they will flex a little when turning on the lathe. Not exactly sure at what thickness that is as for me it had varied a little. I have not done a winged burl so not sure how that would behave.

One turner by the name of Jimmy Clewes that I have seen on youtube turn a natural edge vase with a wall thickness of 2mm. He basically did this in stages as he hollowed out the inside.

I will try and thin out some more when I turn it round but as it's another first, clunky might be best for now.

cheers

[Nubsnstubs]

I will try and thin out some more when I turn it round but as it's another first, clunky might be best for now.

cheers

Fumbler, this might work. Since you already have your recess turned, pull your piece out of the chuck. Turn it around and finish just the face of the flat while still thick. You should turn some of the bowl to use that as a center for the next step.. After the flat and bowl is turned to your liking, remove it and make a jam chuck large enough to span the wings. Fit the opening of the bowl that you started to turn to a plug your gonna make in the jam chuck with the wings sitting flat on the face of the large rimmed jam chuck. The wings should now be stable instead of flexible and should turn nicely to uniform thinned wings. Reverse it and finish hollowing the bowl.... It should work.......... I guess I'll have to try it one of these days. If you have any questions or doubts, don't hesitate to ask for clarification. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

[Fumbler]

Fumbler, this might work. Since you already have your recess turned, pull your piece out of the chuck. Turn it around and finish just the face of the flat while still thick. You should turn some of the bowl to use that as a center for the next step.. After the flat and bowl is turned to your liking, remove it and make a jam chuck large enough to span the wings. Fit the opening of the bowl that you started to turn to a plug your gonna make in the jam chuck with the wings sitting flat on the face of the large rimmed jam chuck. The wings should now be stable instead of flexible and should turn nicely to uniform thinned wings. Reverse it and finish hollowing the bowl.... It should work.......... I guess I'll have to try it one of these days. If you have any questions or doubts, don't hesitate to ask for clarification. ............ Jerry (in Tucson)

I think I follow you. I'll see how I go.

thanks.

[hughie]

so far so good :)

[Fumbler]

Whala!! Finished. Personally the walls could be a tad thinner but I didn't want to go too mad, considering this is my 3rd bowl, my first burl bowl and my first natural edge bowl. I also now want to find a run on gloss finish that will make it pop. Happy for you guys to pick away. Just don't go too mad, kidding, knock your socks off. Sorry dimensions are 40mm high, 200mm long, wing thickness 4mm.

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[turnerted]

A good effort .I would finish with danish oil .Use a small brush to paint the edges first then spread the oil over the rest . Watch out for streaks of oil running down from the edges . If they dry, they will be hard to remove .Next day buff on the lathe using a tight ball of cloth so's you don't get it caught on the edges . Similarly apply at least three more coats of oil . Actually you will have difficulty buffing the bottom due to the way you have mounted it . I always mount on a scrap block , hot melt glued, on then there is plenty of room to buff right down to the base .If you have longnose jaws it would give better access .
Ted

[artme]

That looks the goods!!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Just don't put too many SAOs on that long wing!

[Christos]

Nice going on the bowl.

I think 4 mm thickness for the wings is about right for this size bowl. Personally I would go for an oil finish, weather that is danish or another blended oil. As suggested above using a little brush and then a cloth for the rest of the piece.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Great looking bowl, well done.

Remember that with burls or porous timbers when you use Danish oil you can easily get shiny marks around the pores and holes. It is because you can't wipe away all the oil in the pores/holes and it seeps to the surface around the edges of the holes making them obvious (shiny rings when dry). I've found that I need to oil in the morning then keep coming back during the day to wipe the timber again as that sneaky oil seeps out.

An alternative to an oil would be to use a shellac like a Hard shellac, put on with a rubber (cloth pad with wadding inside). The shellac doesn't darken the timber as much as oil and Hard Shellac, once it sets and cross links, is very hard wearing, heat and water resistant and food safe.

[Fumbler]

Thankyou all,

I will just be using mineral oil as it will shine, but not as much as it would f I sprayed it. but as its winter I would prefer not to so I will just oil. As much as I am happy that it didn't break apart on me, for first natural edge, and 3rd ever bowl, I think I can progress to a bigger block and have a crack the other way round. or maybe reversing and either flaring the wings a little so its not so 'in your face flat' so to speak. This time I was sort of dictated to by the small size of the block.