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rtyuiop
20th July 2017, 01:18 PM
Hi folks,

I've been playing around with some mixed resin and wood turning lately (and some straight epoxy resin for that matter!)- what are people's favourite options for finishes? I know some folks like sprayed lacquer, but it's a annoying to apply compared to something applied on-lathe, or even something like DO or kunos livos that can be done simply afterwards.

Anyone have any suggestions or experiences? I have used shellawax on a couple of pieces and it seems to be working OK so far.

For smaller pieces I guess the whole array of pen-style finishes would be doable (CA or dipped rustins plastic/WOP), but they also tend to be time consuming!

Cheers,

Danny

dai sensei
20th July 2017, 08:18 PM
Depends on how much shine you want. For a satin finish you can thin 30%NCL (i.e. the satin finish) down to just 20% (i.e. sanding sealer) and apply quite a few coats by hand with a rag and get a good finish (with lathe off otherwise you can get rings) in a similar manner to the oils. DO and Kunos work well but again only give you a satin finish.

For a full gloss I know Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish works well but I haven't tried it on bowls only knives

rtyuiop
21st July 2017, 08:29 AM
Thanks Neil. Going to try livos (and probably a top coat of bivos) on my next one I think. Just need inspiration to strike for a design!

hughie
22nd July 2017, 08:47 PM
Favourite finishes, well theres a few, hmm ok how about DIY DO 30/30/30 or 60/40 no BLO . Antique Oil and buffing, Wipe on Poly, Wiping varnish 50/50, and finally Nitrocellulose

george mavridis
22nd July 2017, 10:54 PM
Favourite finishes, well theres a few, hmm ok how about DIY DO 30/30/30 or 60/40 no BLO . Antique Oil and buffing, Wipe on Poly, Wiping varnish 50/50, and finally Nitrocellulose

Hughie, what's the DIY DO 30/30/30?

AngelaPetruzzi
25th July 2017, 03:05 PM
rtyuiop if you can get your hands on some Kunos countertop oil #243, that give a slightly different sheen level to the Kunos natural oil sealer #244. The Bivos will buff up well too though. Would be interesting to hear your feedback. By applying an extra coat and buffing, one can manipulate the sheen level somewhat.

rtyuiop
26th July 2017, 09:43 AM
Thanks Angela. Got a piece underway now, just put a first coat on Livos on last night, will post back with how it went.

Although I kind of wimped out on preparing the surface properly so I suspect it will not be as good as it could be!

rtyuiop
3rd August 2017, 01:13 PM
An update... The livos worked fine, but I kind of stuffed up the piece for other reasons:

http://rtyuiop.net/workshop/jarrahburl-and-epoxy-platter.jpg

I first turned away the bottom of the bowl before doing a finish cut on the top - I just wasn't thinking at the time - and made it quite thin... I ended up having major issues with vibration, and couldn't get a good finish cut, so there are tearout issues.

Tried the old 80 grit gouge to get rid of some of the tearout, but of course the jarrah and epoxy sanded unevenly so that kind of looks bad as well... I can't think of a way to fix this, short of using a vacuum chuck (which I don't have) to try to support it better, return, and refinish... And I'm not sure I can be bothered at the moment!

dai sensei
3rd August 2017, 09:41 PM
Pretty hard to see anything in that photo. Take it out in the sun on a white/light background and try another photo.

Once you have removed the mount your chances of getting back centred enough for a final cut holding it by any means is near impossible. How much thickness is there, could you glue on a waste block and get it as close as central to return the mm or so out to finish it?

rtyuiop
6th August 2017, 09:37 PM
Yeah, the photo was taken to disguise the problems!

There's enough material to let me re-turn it (it probably averages around 5mm), but it's quite large and any sort of cut I tried had it vibrating all over the place while I still had it mounted. The only way I can think of to save it would be to remount it on something that gives a lot of support - possibly a block turned to match the profile as a jam chuck or glue chuck, or a vacuum chuck with a big diameter?

I'm not sure I'm motivated enough to do it right now, maybe another day!

Christos
9th August 2017, 10:51 PM
One thing you could try is to sand this off the lathe.

I have used a drill press that had a sanding pad in the chuck and I moved the piece around to clean up the surface. What I got was a surface that was not even but on a big piece it would not really show up so much. You could feel it with your fingers as most people fingers have a very sensitive touch. One thing to keep in mind is that you might need to do some hand sanding to clean up the circular scratches. I went outside the shed, took a stool with me and slowly sanded with the grain.