Zero thickness shim glue???

[Matt NQ]

In final stages of setting up my Nova Comet 2 lathe. Nova doesn't have a steady rest for it (major omission Nova!), so I've been grinding a larger cast-iron one to fit the ways. Got it nicely into the lathe rails, to find that the original base is not flat! (Grrrr... :~). For reference, it's this Hafco one from Machinery House: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W378

Thanks to learning about the wonders of aluminium cans in another thread, I've found one slice of a soft-drink can at one corner of the base is a perfect shim. But what can I glue it with (and how) so that the layer of glue doesn't make it too thick?

[BobL]

Any super glue should be OK. If you have digital calipers you can do a practice run using two piece of Al can and then measure the thickness before and after glue.

[Matt NQ]

Thanks Bob. Any tips on technique to get complete coverage but thin and even on the shim?

[BobL]

Thanks Bob. Any tips on technique to get complete coverage but thin and even on the shim?
I'd look for a thin glue with a longer set time the usual (not one of these instant ones) and then if you clamp it will hopefully squeeze out the excess.
It may even pay to mix your own two pack epoxy as that can be quite thin.

[Matt NQ]

None of the super glues have a "longer set time", it seems. If I'm going for an epoxy, what is a commonly available one with low viscosity (i.e. thin and runny)?

[BobL]

None of the super glues have a "longer set time", it seems. If I'm going for an epoxy, what is a commonly available one with low viscosity (i.e. thin and runny)?

West systems is pretty runny especially when its warm so I sometimes park the individual components in the sun for an hour or so before mixing.

[Matt NQ]

Just looked up West System glues. Seems they only make large bottles of it. I just need one of the tiny packs from Bunnings, but I don't know which one - website doesn't detail viscosity.

[BobL]

Just looked up West System glues. Seems they only make large bottles of it. I just need one of the tiny packs from Bunnings, but I don't know which one - website doesn't detail viscosity.
I think any of them will be OK - just don't get the GEL type?

[Matt NQ]

Just submitted an "ask the expert" question on the Selley's site. I'll post the answer.

[Lappa]

Z-Poxy is very thin.

[RobbieB]

Soft drink cans IIRC have a very thin layer of plastic on the inside to protect the metal from the acid in the soft drink. If you remove it you can add back that thickness of epoxy. Light sandpaper or maybe acetone/dry cleaning fluid might work.

[Matt NQ]

Thanks RobbieB, that's a terrific tip. Probably good to sand anyway to aid glue grip.

Lappa, thank you. There's a range of Z-poxy - https://www.zapglue.com/epoxy-resins Most of them are called gap-fillers which doesn't suggest thinness to me, and the only one that is called a gap-filler doesn't seem great for metal. Which one have you experienced as "thin"?

Can an low viscosity epoxy be used thinly and also as a gap filler? So many of the epoxy glues are called gap fillers I'm wondering if some of them have this flexibility, and if so, which ones.

[Matt NQ]

Found a Q&A on Amazon for Z-poxy 15 min epoxy:

is the resin part thick almost like jello consistancy or thin like water (https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1CBI2XEA8XY08/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza)

Answer:
Both parts are an equally "gel-like" consistency. Not runny at all. Hope that helps.
By Adam W on December 1, 2015

[Oddy]

I bet there would be a loctite product that is suitable, and available from a local industrial supplier.

[Matt NQ]

Thanks Oddy. Had a look at the Loctite stuff, and I think I may have found the answer. Loctite Studlock 263:

Loctite Threadlocker 263 (http://www.loctite-consumer.com.au/en/products/threadlockers/threadlocker263.html)

Designed to bond metal with a thin layer of glue. Sets in 10 mins, which gives me time to position carefully and wipe edges. For threads rather than flat surfaces, so maybe not the strongest, but I can take care to lift the lathe steady rather than slide it (good for not abrading the ways anyway) and then the bond doesn't need to be too strong.

Anyone had experience using this stuff?

[powderpost]

I had a similar problem with the tail stock on a previous lathe. I tried "super glue", that lasted about six months. For the second attempt, I used araldite, that lasted about six years. It is essential to rough the surface with coarse sand paper.

Jim

[Lappa]

Found a Q&A on Amazon for Z-poxy 15 min epoxy:

is the resin part thick almost like jello consistancy or thin like water (https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1CBI2XEA8XY08/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza)

Answer:
Both parts are an equally "gel-like" consistency. Not runny at all. Hope that helps.
By Adam W on December 1, 2015


This is my Z-poxy
https://youtu.be/aMWAPHVV5j8

I bought it to build model gliders. It is labelled as a finishing resin expoxy but it is also an adhesive according to the literature. I have used it as such for years.

[Matt NQ]

Thanks Jim & Lappa.

Got a reply back from Selleys, who also recommended Araldite:

"It really would not matter which Araldite product was used as they are all similar viscosity. Our 5 Minute Araldite would be fine. You should however be able to clamp the shim flat leaving minimal glue thickness but retaining adhesion."

So with everyone saying epoxy, and Araldite being available at Bunnings, I think I'll give that a go, pre-sanding as suggested. Will post on results.

[Matt NQ]

Finished it! Sanded off the coating and left it rough after 80 grit to take the glue. Applied the 5 minute Araldite thinly with some stiff cardboard. Clamped it firmly to squeeze out excess. After drying sanded off excess rather than acetone so as not to diminish grip. Result is perfect - lathe steady now sits completely flat on the lathe bed. Thanks to all who gave suggestions!

435491

[dr4g0nfly]

The best way to use any CA glue is at about one spot per square inch. Don't use it like modelling glue there will be too much and it will take forever to go off.