Change belt on Tough lathe

[Stone Monkey]

Hi,
I am trying to change the belt on my new to me Tough lathe. I have found two grub screws on the gears and removed the two cover plates (and one washer). I then bodged up a puller arrangement to pull the spindle towards the tail stock. This has not budged the spindle at all and I am worried about breaking it by applying more force.
Does anyone with a similar lathe know if I have missed something?
Thanks
Pete

[warrick]

If you don't need to change the bearings then get something like this

Rick


https://www.carbatec.com.au/machinery-and-accessories/machinery-accessories/rockler-adjustable-link-belt-vibration-reduction

[Stone Monkey]

I have already bought a belt for 5 dollars and would prefer not to spend for a link belt.
Thanks for the suggestion.

[China]

That puller will destroy your bearings, and most likely not remove them, the puller must put pressure on the inner sleeve, otherwise it will have too much flex

[Stone Monkey]

Sorry mate I dont understand, is there a sleeve inside the spindle? Can you not pull a spindle through the bearings?
Thanks

[warrick]

I have found two grub screws on the gears

Pete,
If you are talking about grub screws in the headstock pulley double check that there is not two grub screws in the holes as they often used one to lock another.
Do you have a photo from the other side showing the pulley ?

Rick

[Paul39]

Stone Monkey,

Carefully inspect to be sure the spindle does not go out the outboard side of the head stock. This photo shows what looks like a nut on the inboard side. If you have that, unscrewing it may let the spindle go out the outboard side.

Soak everything with penetrating oil - liquid wrench, WD-40, your favorite mouse milk.

Hopefully a Tough owner will chime in.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c0/6f/8a/c06f8a88dbb4d5d1ff152aa66c270b69.jpg

Check to see that anywhere a set screw presses on the shaft has not raised a burr. If so wrap 120ish grit sand paper over and remove burr.

Good that you are using a puller, hammering on a spindle can ruin bearings.

[Stone Monkey]

No double set screws and no nuts visible, broke the nut off the dodgy puller, too scared to give it another go. Looks like I am going to have to fork out the bucks for a link belt.
Thanks for all the help.
Cheers
Pete

[arose62]

Seen this thread?
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/drive-belt-replacement-5679

[quercus]

the thread mentioned above shows it can be done, I used to have one years ago and replaced the belt and bearings. I don't remember it being overly difficult. However make sure you are pulling it the right way, as the shaft may be stepped.

[Treecycle]

Don't know if you have bit the bullet yet and purchased a link belt but if you haven't, that shaft should be able to be removed without too much trouble.
Firstly I can see a lot of rust on the shaft sticking out the back. I would clean that off with some emery cloth or sandpaper first as if the shaft does start to move the rust will make it tight going through the bearing. I would also see what parts of the shaft you can get access to inside the headstock and clean any rust off there too. As Paul says, plenty of soaking with a penetrant for a couple of days.
In regards to your puller, your idea is good but it is too weak if the shaft is tight. What you need to do is remove the timber from the back end of the shaft and put a piece of steel between the nut and shaft. A piece of 1/4" or thicker steel plate with a hole drilled through it to allow the bar to go through will do or even a stack of good heavy large washers. On the other end you can still leave your vertical pieces of timber there but again you need to back them up with a piece of steel plate, the thicker and larger the better. Without the steel the nuts and washers will just pull into the timber because it is so soft and not actually apply much force on the shaft. When you do set it up as described above, apply a good force with the puller and if the shaft doesn't move initially you could place a piece of wood against the back end of the puller and give it some sharp firm hits with a hammer(not full blooded blows) which should jar it from the position it has been sitting for years. Once it starts to move the puller should just draw it out.
Once you have it out give the shaft a good clean up removing all the rust and when you put it back in, apply some antisieze if you have it or plain old grease on the surfaces that mount inside the bearings so that any future removal will be easy.
Hope this helps.

[artful bodger]

Wondering if you managed to change the belt Stone Monkey?.

[Stone Monkey]

I got a link belt and did it that way. More expensive but less chance of breaking anything. Thanks for all the help.

[artful bodger]

I got a link belt and did it that way. More expensive but less chance of breaking anything. Thanks for all the help.



It's good, that you now have a new belt.
Still a problem there if the bearings fail though.
On the upside, they may last longer than you.
If not a heat gun can be a handy tool to get stubborn bearings out.