For best finish i should use....

[haemish762]

Hello again all. I am up to project 4, and i have experimented again with E. 'bluntchiselii'. I think the shape is pretty good, i just need to finish sanding it properly. My next investment i hope will be a hollowing scraper, are they worth it?
I know it fairly plain timber, but i want to be able to highlite what graining there is, and the knot which seem to have potential. What would be good for a high lustre finish without taking away the natural colours.
Thanks, Haemish

[hughie]

haemish, Looks fine to me. Have look at one of those free rotating sanders. see the link

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/inside1.html
I get alot done with one of these.
hughie

[rsser]

Danish Oil - buffed, or wet-sanded for a higher sheen.

That's my prejudice and I'm sticking to it ;-}

Edit: don't quite know what you mean by a hollowing scraper.

A heavy scraper ground to a radius a bit tighter than your bowl, and used on its edge so that it scrapes at 45 degrees to the rotation of your piece will do a lot to even out the gouge's 'corduroy' and provide a good finish. (With interlocked grain however use it flat on the rest.).

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I agree wholeheartedly with Ern. Danish Oil.

A good scraper for use in hollow forms can be made from simple round stock. Imagine cutting the end off a screwdriver, then grinding a single bevel on the end. This can effectively be used at almost any angle you choose... unless you've a really bad technique. ;)

[dai sensei]

I agree that the danish oil gives a good finish, but it generally gives a low sheen finish. As you are after that high lustre finish, you can't go past my favourite - our sponsers's Shellewax, then EEE, then Shellewax Glow.

Cheers

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

There's a bloke in my local woodturning club who has Danish down to a fine art. If his finishes were any richer or glossier you'd need sunnies! :eek: Mind you, he is a french polisher... I doubt he applies it like us lesser folk.

Another bloke I know uses pure Tung Oil and simply dips the item, letting it drain on an old 'frig rack over a tray. I believe the longer drying time prevents runs although I don't know how he stops lumps'n'bumps where it rests on the rack. He won't tell... but his finishes are also glorious to behold.

Me, I'm still working out my own methods, but I can still get a reasonable gloss using more traditional methods. It takes four or five coats though. If I want a satin finish I need to final sand with 0000 and a coat of shellawax... whereas you use it for a gloss? :confused:

I guess 'tis all a matter of personal preference and finding what works for you. [shrug]

[rsser]

Any finishing product will produce varied results according to the timber it's used on, not to mention the final sanding grit, and sometimes you get surprises at how it responds.

Wet sanding with any oil based product will help fill the grain and build body and gloss; the neat thing is that you can control the degree. Mostly though I just buff DO to increase the lustre if needed; you want to see the figure, not your distorted mug staring back at you.

You can of course build body with wax but I prefer the durability of DO.

[DavidG]

See my signature.

[JackoH]

'Ere Ere' David

[barryr]

See my signature.

an over simplified answer but a great suck up to the boss !:p

[DavidG]

barryr
Just trying to make up for my last stuff up.:o

[haemish762]

I am willing to take any donations of shellawax products, money and real estate....... I'm cheep,i'll take any freebies!! LOL