cast iron or steel tool rests

[hughie]

Hi.
Having just snapped my cast iron tool rest in two. It came about through an almighty jam up up of which the tool rest gave way. One up for nova chucks and the 130mm jaws
I am about to move away from cast iron. I know it has vibration obsorbing qualitites but it also lacks the strength of steel.
They are much easier to replace/build for the backyard DIY, dont really fancy the prices some of the outlets charge for a simple piece of flat + round bar and a weld here and there.
hughie

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It could've been worse... by the sounds of it, if the toolrest hadn't failed something else a bit less easily replacable might've.

The real advantage of going steel, if you're making your own, is that you can make your own design. of any desired shape. That's not to say they'll all be equally useful... ;)

[barnsey]

Cast tool rests can do that, I've done that too:o

The Teknatool lathe and tool rest is as good as I've ever used and it's not cast but as you suggest, 2" X 1/4" bar champhered one edge and welded to the round post. Worth a look if you want to make one;)

Jamie

[smidsy]

I looked in to doing this a while back.
The stock bar is only approximate diameter and can vary up to 2mm from spec so what you need to do is buy some bolts the correct diameter.
Cheers
Paul

[hughie]

Hi and thanks for the comments.
When I get more time I am looking at making something like the ones in the link.
Looks like they used some 75 or 100mm pipe, not a bad idea.

http://www.turnrobust.com/Robust/Pics/Robust1%20013.jpg

hughie

[hooppine]

Bright Bar is much more accurate in dia with low hydrogen type welding reccommended ie TIG Mig or stick welding with low hydrogen electrodes with preheat and post heat to avoid cracking.

:eek: Advice from an old steel worker

[RETIRED]

Cast tool rests can do that, I've done that too:o

The Teknatool lathe and tool rest is as good as I've ever used and it's not cast but as you suggest, 2" X 1/4" bar champhered one edge and welded to the round post. Worth a look if you want to make one;)

Jamie

5/16th I think Jamie.:)

[TTIT]

I've made my own with 40mm x 10mm flat and they serve well but I might have a go at the pipe idea myself - looks good!

[RETIRED]

They are not an ideal shape for tool rests though.

[barnsey]

5/16th I think Jamie.:)

Yeah think you are right :D:D

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I find some of the rounded form of t/rests excellent for deep hollowing, but prefer to get the supporting edge a LOT closer for external and spindle work.

I guess it depends on what you're turning. [shrug]

[Taffy]

That must have some wild jam up, most important thing is that you did not get hurt (this time), My dear son has access to all sorts of scrap steel and some machines to shape them. He presented me with a post size an a bent "S" shaped piece of steel some time ago for me to weld up into a bowl tool rest. Maybe I should brush the wood dust off and stick it together it may save the long reach in some bowls which will be why some accidents such as this happen.
Watch the fingers!!

Taffy

[hughie]

That must have some wild jam up, most important thing is that you did not get hurt (this time),Taffy

Hi Taffy,
It was green timber, a very knotty piece of pine -- very wet and spraying all over, so I had one eye shut so to speak.
I was using a 3/8 gouge with a very long hardwood handle and fortunately out of the line of fire.

Still it got the old heart going......lickity split.:D

hughie

[Gil Jones]

This toolrest failed while the gouge was about 4" down in a bowl. No harm done to anything (or me), but it does perk a person up some. It is from a General Intl. Maxi-Lathe (10" swing), about two years old. No catch when it broke, just normal turning.

[hughie]

gbj,
It looks like form the pic that the cast has crystallized some what and maybe faulted at that point. Great for keeping the old heart rockin 'n rollin....hughie:)

[Kirwilli]

I have just replaced my cast rest with a fabricated one. I used 25mm Mild steel solid bar for post and rest. I suggest that you do not use hollow section/pipe as there will be noticable vibtration. My first attempt was using hollow section and I scrapped it almost immediately. If fabricating one just ensure that you take great care in getting the post square to the rest. Otherwise you will be turning uphill and downhill.

:o Henry

[Kris.Parker1]

I had the same problem with cast iron gear with my lathe. My brother made me some awesome stainless steel chucks at work for my lathe and it has never been better.

[hingston]

I have just mad up a couple of straight rests using bar for my MSL-3815.

They work great.
I have some bar left over, the next challange is bowl rests.

Thought of fabricating the "s" types but I am a bit unsure of the dimensions/ raduis of bends to give to the workshop who will bend the 7/8" bar.


Any contructive http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif suggestions ??

Thnaks

Rob

[Hickory]

In my humble Safety inclined opinion......

Stick with the Cast Iron for it performed the exact way it was intended. When you had a great miscalulation, it assumed the responsibility and gave of itself in order to protect you. Had not the rest sacraficed itself, who knows what damage a broken tool or broken operater may have experienced. There must always be a weak link between the machine and the operator. A steel rest made to take the blow would have passed off that sudden inpact and through the physics of leverage the tool would have multiplied the force and handed it to you, the operator. Is your flesh ready to accept that challenge?

Having said that.....

I too like Steel toolrests that can be made to conform to the work shape, can be made smaller to reach inside the delicate pieces, but these should be reserved for the finishing cuts where "Catches" and "Snags" are not as likely to occur.

Get youself a new Cast iron Rest for roughing and large bowls as well as spindle turning. Also get some steel rod (I use a long 3/4" bolt from the Hardware store & 1/2" steel rod) and have a local shop (or friend if you don't have a welder) attach a cross bar. Make several of different shapes and sizes for the cost of one from the WWing store.

But use the cast iron rest for your own protection during the roughing stages. Well worth the investment.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

Thought of fabricating the "s" types but I am a bit unsure of the dimensions/ raduis of bends to give to the workshop who will bend the 7/8" bar.


Any contructive http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/icons/icon7.gif suggestions ??

Personally, I like a 1" straight to each side of the riser, with a 90° arc of 2" radius on one end and a 45° arc of 4" radius on the other. But that's for the size of things (and way) that I turn.

[rsser]

Hi Hingston,

The sky's the limit with curved rests.

I've got a collection made to the design of a prof. turner. If you have a fax pm me your number and I'll trace some shapes out for you. Are you interested in C's as well as S's?

[hughie]

Hingston,
it pretty much as Ern has said, There are no right or wrong shapes its what you need or fancy.
I have a couple of S bend type of different radii, C shaped etc. Its what ever you can imagine and the need for a different shape.
Like Ern I have also several shapes etc that I can fax/email etc to you if you like.
Do a search of the forum as there are a few pics already available.

hughie